Cayman R - owners/buyers/mods
Discussion
My eyes are glazing over. Just when there's a glimmer of normality in this thread it turns like the other one did until Dan911 started this one. Maybe we need a Cayman R photo thread where owners can post pics of their cars both in repose and in action? I'd also like to start collating a register as we had for the Turbo 3.6 cars. Anorak stuff but interesting in years to come.
John McM said:
My eyes are glazing over. .
Page after page of cringeworthy garbage, its like an embarrassing soap. I think the mods should really step in and offer one or two people above a little holiday from the forum to encourage others who want to make a positive contribution to participate. John McM said:
Axel987 said:
Anyway... I ordered GT3 RS LCA`s today along with the extenders.. should be great!
Keep us updated. Which part numbers did you order? Cost?BTW: Did you sort out the brakes and tendancy to veer?
GT3 RS LCAs arent cheap! ill get the part number tomorrow...
When you say not cheap, did you order the 997 GT3 part? You could have used 996 GT3 2 piece arms instead if that's the case. Does exactly the same thing but for less money assuming Porsche haven't quadrupled the price on the 996 part since I last saw it.
Might be worth thinking about if others are planning on going this route and wanting to stick with Porsche parts.
Edit to add on:
By extenders do you mean shims? If so, no idea how much you are planning on running but be wary of using more than 12mm worth. The arms get prone to breaking beyond this point.
Also, as you shim you gain castor so watch out for rubbing near full lock. If you get it you can elongate your top mount holes and drop some shims to reduce castor gain. Or you can use the RSR adjustable puck or RSR adjustable compression arm to adjust castor freely and independently. The aftermarket make cheaper alternatives for both if you don't have access to Porsche Motorsport.
Might be worth thinking about if others are planning on going this route and wanting to stick with Porsche parts.
Edit to add on:
By extenders do you mean shims? If so, no idea how much you are planning on running but be wary of using more than 12mm worth. The arms get prone to breaking beyond this point.
Also, as you shim you gain castor so watch out for rubbing near full lock. If you get it you can elongate your top mount holes and drop some shims to reduce castor gain. Or you can use the RSR adjustable puck or RSR adjustable compression arm to adjust castor freely and independently. The aftermarket make cheaper alternatives for both if you don't have access to Porsche Motorsport.
Edited by fioran0 on Friday 17th April 01:11
I notice that the aftermarket offers a ton of options with various upgraded steering arms and Suspension linkage arms but I've never really understood what the benefits were beyond being able to adjust the geo especially on a road car. Are there any additional benefits that would be worth looking into?
PR36 said:
I notice that the aftermarket offers a ton of options with various upgraded steering arms and Suspension linkage arms but I've never really understood what the benefits were beyond being able to adjust the geo especially on a road car. Are there any additional benefits that would be worth looking into?
safe understeeriing dullnessnow take any car, a Merc, a Ford most things , go check their tyres, the outters are nackered on all these cars if the driver is actually driving the thing.
I have friends in business and I visit many clients who are into cars and ask me questions, only yesterday a client of mine showed me his Merc and the outter 30mm of tread was bold.
I hate under steer, now I am not a Chris Harris oversteering loon, I don't drift either, but I don't want to battle with the oem set up.
IF you are NOT going to track or drive to the limits (only you know how far to push on public roads, (but I know a lot of people who go on early morning hoons) that I get away just with -1.2 front camber on my R for 100% road use, My spyder could only get -1 and you can tell that extra -0.2, I would say to any R, SPyder owner, try adjusting the top mounts to get the max allowed, fit front only 5/7mm spacers and go and chalk your tyres up.
don't throw money away on camber you will never use, I see that at track days, cars with -3 but the driver cannot get to it to use it !
the rear toe links stop rear steer under hard braking, esp on a car like my Spyder which is over braked, I want the rear wheels to NOT move and steer the car under the forces it gets.
I do think the 4 pots are NOT enough esp if you have a fully loaded car with AC , radio and carry a passenger, you will fade them.
SO you have you look at
A: driving limits one wants to take to on public roads.
B: are you going to track it.
C: are you happy with the brake set up.
I have very few mods on my R for 100% road, Pilot SS tyres, -1.2 front camber, 7mm front spacers, and RS29 pads with Motul 660.
I take people out in that and scare them, it's a great road car with very little money spent.
My Spyder has every thing, it's not quite finished, so not tried it in anger yet, but it's already a very tight drive.
I would say DO the mods I have done to the R 1st, then do the engine centre mount, and a SS kit if you don't have it, then rear toe links and then a 6 pot brake setup.
if you take it to any track day, you have to have adjustable LCA, end of, if you can drive to a good level you need to be at -2.5 camber,l I run -2.0 atm and will do a chalk test to see if I an good/fast enough to go to -2.5 later on.
MC, s
t pads, cup cables, sprint boosters are ALL MASKS to issues which need better fixed imo.Extra BHP then is another choice, but unless you are going to fork out £2.5k on manifolds don't again throw your money away on so called remaps and filters.
Edited by PorscheGT4 on Friday 17th April 09:27
Edited by PorscheGT4 on Friday 17th April 10:01
J-P said:
Well, get in your car drive at 28MPH in 3rd for a bit, look down at your dash and see what your gear shift indicator is asking you to do. That's right, change up to 4th, so Porsche think that you should be in 4th at 31MPH, now imagine you want to accelerate ahead of a car while driving along at 31MPH in fourth and nothing happens. It's very irritating, I'm pleased that it doesn't annoy you but for me even though I've only ever triggered it once, it's something I'd rather wasn't there. We're not all the same for heaven's sake!
that's why I said, you take advice from Parr, and the likes and you drive how Porsche want you to drive in 4th at 30 mph and you do the Mods you want to do which will make you happy.I don't agree with your route, your reasons for the route you are going down and what you have already done to your car In the order you are doing it.
I have two cars one for road one for more focused driving and the odd track day, my views on what is needed is clearly NOT the same as your goals.
so one thing we do agree on is "We're not all the same " :-) but you ARE the same as my GF she want to be in the gear the dash says on her JCW's
So, hit something in the road last night, took a three inch chunk out of my front tyre, air pissing out of it, now completely flat sitting on the rim. FFS!
So, two new front tyres it is then!! The current fronts are Goodyear's, I recently put some Bridgestones 050's on the rear. Should I get some to match the front's too or go with something else?
Car is within warranty currently so need to stay N-spec for now blah blah.
So, two new front tyres it is then!! The current fronts are Goodyear's, I recently put some Bridgestones 050's on the rear. Should I get some to match the front's too or go with something else?
Car is within warranty currently so need to stay N-spec for now blah blah.
Outter 30cm of his tyres are bald, how wide are his tyres?
I always thought that the inside of the tyre would go bald first and the shoulder on the outside would be rounded off if driven regularly with vigor?
Whilst the cars are 'effectively the same' but wont the Spyder have different handling characteristics due to being a drop top and not having the same rigidity? The only way youd be able to have a back to back comparison would be to have someone put the camber to 1.0 then switch it to 1.2 or vice versa or 1.0, 1.0 then 1.2 with you not being told what it is set-up? Its something id love to do to see if i could really tell the difference but dont have the support team to do it
I always thought that the inside of the tyre would go bald first and the shoulder on the outside would be rounded off if driven regularly with vigor?
Whilst the cars are 'effectively the same' but wont the Spyder have different handling characteristics due to being a drop top and not having the same rigidity? The only way youd be able to have a back to back comparison would be to have someone put the camber to 1.0 then switch it to 1.2 or vice versa or 1.0, 1.0 then 1.2 with you not being told what it is set-up? Its something id love to do to see if i could really tell the difference but dont have the support team to do it
fioran0 said:
When you say not cheap, did you order the 997 GT3 part? You could have used 996 GT3 2 piece arms instead if that's the case. Does exactly the same thing but for less money assuming Porsche haven't quadrupled the price on the 996 part since I last saw it.
Might be worth thinking about if others are planning on going this route and wanting to stick with Porsche parts.
Hi Neil hope you're well ? The two piece 996 items are £650 a pair and the inner sections are currently on back order as I understand it.Might be worth thinking about if others are planning on going this route and wanting to stick with Porsche parts.
lemmingjames said:
Outter 30cm of his tyres are bald, how wide are his tyres?
I always thought that the inside of the tyre would go bald first and the shoulder on the outside would be rounded off if driven regularly with vigor?
Whilst the cars are 'effectively the same' but wont the Spyder have different handling characteristics due to being a drop top and not having the same rigidity? The only way youd be able to have a back to back comparison would be to have someone put the camber to 1.0 then switch it to 1.2 or vice versa or 1.0, 1.0 then 1.2 with you not being told what it is set-up? Its something id love to do to see if i could really tell the difference but dont have the support team to do it
see correction ;-) 3cm or 30mm. and yes I am talking road cars driven harder than Joe public doing the 20mph rush hour run.I always thought that the inside of the tyre would go bald first and the shoulder on the outside would be rounded off if driven regularly with vigor?
Whilst the cars are 'effectively the same' but wont the Spyder have different handling characteristics due to being a drop top and not having the same rigidity? The only way youd be able to have a back to back comparison would be to have someone put the camber to 1.0 then switch it to 1.2 or vice versa or 1.0, 1.0 then 1.2 with you not being told what it is set-up? Its something id love to do to see if i could really tell the difference but dont have the support team to do it
I cannot tell rigidity on the R vs the Spyder, they don't handle the same though for sure, the R has a stiffer rear ARB, I have just fitted an R one to the Spyder to see, that will be a good back to back, and maybe might show up the lack of rigidity ! but at my level I still doubt I will be able to tell, as I can never get both on track at the same time and will drive neither at 100% on track.
Porsche did say because the car was stiffer they could increase the rear ARB on the R, now I have it on both cars I can see what happens.
PorscheGT4 said:
PR36 said:
I notice that the aftermarket offers a ton of options with various upgraded steering arms and Suspension linkage arms but I've never really understood what the benefits were beyond being able to adjust the geo especially on a road car. Are there any additional benefits that would be worth looking into?
safe understeeriing dullnessnow take any car, a Merc, a Ford most things , go check their tyres, the outters are nackered on all these cars if the driver is actually driving the thing.
I have friends in business and I visit many clients who are into cars and ask me questions, only yesterday a client of mine showed me his Merc and the outter 30mm of tread was bold.
I hate under steer, now I am not a Chris Harris oversteering loon, I don't drift either, but I don't want to battle with the oem set up.
IF you are NOT going to track or drive to the limits (only you know how far to push on public roads, (but I know a lot of people who go on early morning hoons) that I get away just with -1.2 front camber on my R for 100% road use, My spyder could only get -1 and you can tell that extra -0.2, I would say to any R, SPyder owner, try adjusting the top mounts to get the max allowed, fit front only 5/7mm spacers and go and chalk your tyres up.
don't throw money away on camber you will never use, I see that at track days, cars with -3 but the driver cannot get to it to use it !
the rear toe links stop rear steer under hard braking, esp on a car like my Spyder which is over braked, I want the rear wheels to NOT move and steer the car under the forces it gets.
I do think the 4 pots are NOT enough esp if you have a fully loaded car with AC , radio and carry a passenger, you will fade them.
SO you have you look at
A: driving limits one wants to take to on public roads.
B: are you going to track it.
C: are you happy with the brake set up.
I have very few mods on my R for 100% road, Pilot SS tyres, -1.2 front camber, 7mm front spacers, and RS29 pads with Motul 660.
I take people out in that and scare them, it's a great road car with very little money spent.
My Spyder has every thing, it's not quite finished, so not tried it in anger yet, but it's already a very tight drive.
I would say DO the mods I have done to the R 1st, then do the engine centre mount, and a SS kit if you don't have it, then rear toe links and then a 6 pot brake setup.
if you take it to any track day, you have to have adjustable LCA, end of, if you can drive to a good level you need to be at -2.5 camber,l I run -2.0 atm and will do a chalk test to see if I an good/fast enough to go to -2.5 later on.
MC, s
t pads, cup cables, sprint boosters are ALL MASKS to issues which need better fixed imo.Extra BHP then is another choice, but unless you are going to fork out £2.5k on manifolds don't again throw your money away on so called remaps and filters.
Edited by PorscheGT4 on Friday 17th April 09:27
Edited by PorscheGT4 on Friday 17th April 10:01
PR36 said:
I disagree with some of your points and think you might be surprised if you were a bit more open minded about some of the things you too readily dismiss, but at the end of the day I do like the fact that at least you have done mods and speak from a point of experience. My CS gen 1 is I suspect a bit lower than your CR and has PSS9 so I intend to try 1.6 camber up front (which is about the mid point of what i have read is a good set up for road use) just as an experiment to see how different it is from where I am at moment with 0.5 and 0 toe from memory. I am not interested in camber for the sake of internet bragging..only if it improves something on the car, if not I will put it back to stock. I will post up my impressions after its done.
no one will ever agree on that list, that's very personal and the route I would go(have gone) so will never get 100% following ;-) that's fine.I think a Sprint booster could be a great add on for people with no sports mode as Sports software is £800 and the Sprint booster does what it does for less, bar with sports mode you get a slight PSM correction at the same time. for me Sports mode gives me the perfect pedal on the gen 2 car, so it's not an area I am wanting to put hard earned money esp on my Spyder which has many more mods and feels quite alive.
every one has to fix things they are not happy with of course, so no one will be the same as me and my needs.
ride heights well on my Spyder that runs 109mm up front with 28mm wider front track, My R is a road car and already hits speed bumps on the splitters.
what are your ride heights atm ?
As I stated no good having camber you cannot use, -1.6 is a good place to start, I am limited at -1.2 on my R and it's just about ok for road for me to not spend any money on it, so it's a stock car and easier to sell, as I will sell the R so mods have to be sellable friendly to a point it will past a 111 OPC check if needed at little outlay.
you want to run as little camber you can get away with to max rubber on the road esp on a wet road I feel -1.6 would be the max you would want to use.
My Spyder runs -2 (100% dry use car) as I say with a shim made to take it to -2.5 on track if needed but I then have to change the front toe if adding the extra shim.
I don't do all these things for a laugh, I go and test what I need for my style of driving, that's with road use at -1.2 chalk test. while the rear had 15mm chalk showing still.
same test on the Spyder and it's was still rolling off the front tyre at -1.0 showing no signs of Chalk anywhere, these are the R pics.
As I have said, I don't follow people, tuning shops , so call experts etc, I set the car up for how I want the car to drive.
hence why I said you see cars at track days with -3 camber they cannot use and too soft a tyre pressure because some one told them to take 10psi out !
ie noddy driver in a car set up for a pro driver ! or a guy who will do 5 laps vs a guy who will do 20 laps, people always ask, what camber ?, what pressures, and NO one can answer that.
Edited by PorscheGT4 on Friday 17th April 11:01
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