Discussion
Had an excellent day at Harewood hillclimb yesterday. Sadly the rain came (and came and came) after the 2 practice runs but I managed to get a quick and dirty dry ish timed run in too.
The car performed magnificently. Compared to some of the cars that are specifically setup for hillclimbing it held its own with aplomb.
A few pics:
The car performed magnificently. Compared to some of the cars that are specifically setup for hillclimbing it held its own with aplomb.
A few pics:
Just for clarity, is this the sort of thing you generally do with the 944: http://www.historicroadrally.co.uk ?
I don't know much about it but on the face of it a 924 could be a cheap way in to the pre 1981 class or a 944 in to pre 1986.
Any idea what sort of prep is required?
I don't know much about it but on the face of it a 924 could be a cheap way in to the pre 1981 class or a 944 in to pre 1986.
Any idea what sort of prep is required?
andy97 said:
Just for clarity, is this the sort of thing you generally do with the 944: http://www.historicroadrally.co.uk ?
I don't know much about it but on the face of it a 924 could be a cheap way in to the pre 1981 class or a 944 in to pre 1986.
Any idea what sort of prep is required?
Andy, yes, sometimes. I've done a few from that list. The 944 is set up for slightly more aggressive stuff though, more like Tour Brit for track/tarmac and LeJog for endurance/rough stuff.I don't know much about it but on the face of it a 924 could be a cheap way in to the pre 1981 class or a 944 in to pre 1986.
Any idea what sort of prep is required?
Will write up the ideal prep for a 92/44 later when in the office.
benjj said:
andy97 said:
Just for clarity, is this the sort of thing you generally do with the 944: http://www.historicroadrally.co.uk ?
I don't know much about it but on the face of it a 924 could be a cheap way in to the pre 1981 class or a 944 in to pre 1986.
Any idea what sort of prep is required?
Andy, yes, sometimes. I've done a few from that list. The 944 is set up for slightly more aggressive stuff though, more like Tour Brit for track/tarmac and LeJog for endurance/rough stuff.I don't know much about it but on the face of it a 924 could be a cheap way in to the pre 1981 class or a 944 in to pre 1986.
Any idea what sort of prep is required?
Will write up the ideal prep for a 92/44 later when in the office.
Prep for both 924 and 944 is pretty simple for that kind of rallying above. They're fundamentally very strong little cars. Also, counter intuitively (and I have this from Porsche) the sunroof models are stronger still due to bracing in the A/B/C pillars.
Ride height and damping is the first to address. Bilstein B6 offer the best off-the-shelf option as they're built so well. I killed a full set of Koni yellows in 2 days a few years back. The Billies are in a different league.
Brakes - lots of MSA rules here but the bottom line is you have to keep discs of the same diameter and type and the same for calipers. For us that means we can use vented discs as they were standard equipment but need to keep the single pot steel calipers. Pads are open. Spend time and money on the braking system - good discs/pads and full caliper rebuilds often (kits available pretty cheaply). Also consider upgrading the lines to BF Goodrich braided stuff and regular fluid changes. I use decent racing blue fluid and have never had any real complaints from the braking system.
Underbody - you'll want to reverse all the exhaust hangers so nothing sticks down and also consider some underfloor plating. The sump sits quite low, the starter is exposed, the gearbox (at the back, obv) can take whacks etc.
Interior - You can take some liberties with the Blue Book here, I have. Mine is stripped back to bare metal. I have velcroed mats into the front footwells and cut down the back seat squab (1.2kg) that lies across the back seats. MSA says if you have back seats they need to remain and I've never had any complaints on my setup. You can go as mad as you want with door skins etc. For the rallying in your link above a cage is not optional and neither are harnesses. I'd never fancy that in a quick car though so I have a half cage (about to be replaced with full FIA cage) and proper seats bolted through the floorpan on alu fillets, plus 4 point belts.
Engine - not a lot you can do here apart from make it work to the best of its ability. You can't go changing the fuelling, DME/map, adding throttle cams etc - needs to be as originally as manufactured. You can use later engines as long as they're exactly the same type as was fitted (as in any 2.5 8v engine is fine). Old fashioned tuning to the head, manifold, exhaust etc is all fine.
Ride height and damping is the first to address. Bilstein B6 offer the best off-the-shelf option as they're built so well. I killed a full set of Koni yellows in 2 days a few years back. The Billies are in a different league.
Brakes - lots of MSA rules here but the bottom line is you have to keep discs of the same diameter and type and the same for calipers. For us that means we can use vented discs as they were standard equipment but need to keep the single pot steel calipers. Pads are open. Spend time and money on the braking system - good discs/pads and full caliper rebuilds often (kits available pretty cheaply). Also consider upgrading the lines to BF Goodrich braided stuff and regular fluid changes. I use decent racing blue fluid and have never had any real complaints from the braking system.
Underbody - you'll want to reverse all the exhaust hangers so nothing sticks down and also consider some underfloor plating. The sump sits quite low, the starter is exposed, the gearbox (at the back, obv) can take whacks etc.
Interior - You can take some liberties with the Blue Book here, I have. Mine is stripped back to bare metal. I have velcroed mats into the front footwells and cut down the back seat squab (1.2kg) that lies across the back seats. MSA says if you have back seats they need to remain and I've never had any complaints on my setup. You can go as mad as you want with door skins etc. For the rallying in your link above a cage is not optional and neither are harnesses. I'd never fancy that in a quick car though so I have a half cage (about to be replaced with full FIA cage) and proper seats bolted through the floorpan on alu fillets, plus 4 point belts.
Engine - not a lot you can do here apart from make it work to the best of its ability. You can't go changing the fuelling, DME/map, adding throttle cams etc - needs to be as originally as manufactured. You can use later engines as long as they're exactly the same type as was fitted (as in any 2.5 8v engine is fine). Old fashioned tuning to the head, manifold, exhaust etc is all fine.
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