Which shoes do you prefer?
Discussion
Markh said:
each to their own I guess, replica wheels are just wrong
I agree but they're both replicas, the Speedline reps work best of those two. I personally think all non-original fit Porsche wheels are wrong.
And I no I don't like BBS which are a bit try hard (no offence).
Cup 1's would be my choice.
g7jhp said:
I agree but they're both replicas, the Speedline reps work best of those two.
I personally think all non-original fit Porsche wheels are wrong.
And I no I don't like BBS which are a bit try hard (no offence).
Cup 1's would be my choice.
I agree Cup 1's are just right, all though they are only 17's, which drive really well but 18's fill the arch nicely ( I have the Gembella's as they look so much like Cups but are 18's, the downside is they weigh the same as the Isle of wight!). I understand what you say about the E28's they are a bit tarty but are period correct and they are very lightI personally think all non-original fit Porsche wheels are wrong.
And I no I don't like BBS which are a bit try hard (no offence).
Cup 1's would be my choice.
Now if Porsche started to make magnesium Cup 1's again I would buy a set, classic look but light, but would not spend £8k on a set 20 year old magnesium wheels and use them the way they were intended (track use)
Markh said:
I agree Cup 1's are just right, all though they are only 17's, which drive really well but 18's fill the arch nicely ( I have the Gembella's as they look so much like Cups but are 18's, the downside is they weigh the same as the Isle of wight!). I understand what you say about the E28's they are a bit tarty but are period correct and they are very light
Now if Porsche started to make magnesium Cup 1's again I would buy a set, classic look but light, but would not spend £8k on a set 20 year old magnesium wheels and use them the way they were intended (track use)
Fair enough. The cleaning would put me off the E28's! Now if Porsche started to make magnesium Cup 1's again I would buy a set, classic look but light, but would not spend £8k on a set 20 year old magnesium wheels and use them the way they were intended (track use)
Wheel aesthetics are a personal thing. However, I'll chime in with some of my experience and preferences.
Aftermarket 18 inch wheels allow for a much more varied selection of rubber and often wider also, increasing your contact patch. Matching tyre choices to wheels are just as vital an ingredient - but that's another conversation.
BBS wheels weigh very little and reduce un-sprung weight. A true benefit on track, the car feels much lighter to 'the touch' - I immediately notice. However with Alu lips and barrels they are prone to corroding and bending on anything but a smooth race track. I also find that lighter wheels cause skipping on un-even roads. Note that period BBS E28s have (mostly) magnesium centers that need proper attention, whilst BBS E88s have Alu centers that are lighter and stronger.
BBS E28s 8J and 10J come in at 9.63KG and 10KG respectively.
BBS E88s 8J and 9.5J come in at 8.5KG and 8.9KG respectively.
If you like the style of BBS motorsport wheels, but are looking for road wheels I recommend Cargraphics. These wheels feature stainless lips and barrels that are very strong and will not corrode - at a sacrifice to weight.
8J and 10J come in at 10.4KG and 11.3KG respectively.
Original Speedlines are heavy, difficult to maintain and cost a fortune - these combined elements rule them out in my book. Over £6K last set I saw for sale.
8J and 9.5J come in at 11.55KG and 12.16KG respectively.
As an alternative I would recommend RH Speedlines which are also 3 piece and less dear.
8.5J and 10J come in at 11.48KG and 12.62KG respectively.
Interestingly enough Veloce 1 piece Speedlines are the lighter and stronger than the above two options...
To set a base line, Cup 1 wheels.
7.5J and 9J come in at 10.6KG and 11.8KG respectively.
Mille Miglia are a good strong replica Cup 1.
7.5J and 9J come in at 11.3KG and 12.7KG respectively.
Alois Ruf is an advocate of heavier wheels on the road. I agree, they dampen uneven road surfaces considerably.
Wider wheels and tyres increase the contact patch and so you can get away with more negative camber. More negative camber can also be applied to a C4 where you have the benefit of an additional pair of driven wheels. Specific geometry settings and suspension/ anti roll bars setups can negate all under-steer issues, leaving you with a beautifully balanced car. Albeit one that handles less like a traditional 2wd 911.
My point being - when setting up cars it's the combination of different modifications that result in how the car drives. For this specific instance where we are talking about wheels, I would always consider how they would work in tune with my tyre, suspension, geo, ride height, track or road driving, and weight choices.
As a simple example, soft suspension with low profile tyres may just feel like a harder suspension setup with larger profile tyres...
Everybody's definition of the perfectly set up car is different, these are just my thoughts. For what it's worth OP I like your Speedlines as they're more period correct.
Cheers,
Aftermarket 18 inch wheels allow for a much more varied selection of rubber and often wider also, increasing your contact patch. Matching tyre choices to wheels are just as vital an ingredient - but that's another conversation.
BBS wheels weigh very little and reduce un-sprung weight. A true benefit on track, the car feels much lighter to 'the touch' - I immediately notice. However with Alu lips and barrels they are prone to corroding and bending on anything but a smooth race track. I also find that lighter wheels cause skipping on un-even roads. Note that period BBS E28s have (mostly) magnesium centers that need proper attention, whilst BBS E88s have Alu centers that are lighter and stronger.
BBS E28s 8J and 10J come in at 9.63KG and 10KG respectively.
BBS E88s 8J and 9.5J come in at 8.5KG and 8.9KG respectively.
If you like the style of BBS motorsport wheels, but are looking for road wheels I recommend Cargraphics. These wheels feature stainless lips and barrels that are very strong and will not corrode - at a sacrifice to weight.
8J and 10J come in at 10.4KG and 11.3KG respectively.
Original Speedlines are heavy, difficult to maintain and cost a fortune - these combined elements rule them out in my book. Over £6K last set I saw for sale.
8J and 9.5J come in at 11.55KG and 12.16KG respectively.
As an alternative I would recommend RH Speedlines which are also 3 piece and less dear.
8.5J and 10J come in at 11.48KG and 12.62KG respectively.
Interestingly enough Veloce 1 piece Speedlines are the lighter and stronger than the above two options...
To set a base line, Cup 1 wheels.
7.5J and 9J come in at 10.6KG and 11.8KG respectively.
Mille Miglia are a good strong replica Cup 1.
7.5J and 9J come in at 11.3KG and 12.7KG respectively.
Alois Ruf is an advocate of heavier wheels on the road. I agree, they dampen uneven road surfaces considerably.
Wider wheels and tyres increase the contact patch and so you can get away with more negative camber. More negative camber can also be applied to a C4 where you have the benefit of an additional pair of driven wheels. Specific geometry settings and suspension/ anti roll bars setups can negate all under-steer issues, leaving you with a beautifully balanced car. Albeit one that handles less like a traditional 2wd 911.
My point being - when setting up cars it's the combination of different modifications that result in how the car drives. For this specific instance where we are talking about wheels, I would always consider how they would work in tune with my tyre, suspension, geo, ride height, track or road driving, and weight choices.
As a simple example, soft suspension with low profile tyres may just feel like a harder suspension setup with larger profile tyres...
Everybody's definition of the perfectly set up car is different, these are just my thoughts. For what it's worth OP I like your Speedlines as they're more period correct.
Cheers,
Edited by BLACK-BETTY on Wednesday 12th August 06:57
I'd source some OE 'Sport Classics' in 17" - very light and strong and the car will 'handle' at it's best, all things being equal.
7J 55 8.8kgs
9J 55 9.6kgs
They also have the unusual property of looking larger than they are.
Like this. And you can paint them in gold or weissgold if the fancy takes you.
7J 55 8.8kgs
9J 55 9.6kgs
They also have the unusual property of looking larger than they are.
Like this. And you can paint them in gold or weissgold if the fancy takes you.
Edited by Orangecurry on Tuesday 15th September 21:08
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