Bulk head brake clutch connection - transition block?

Bulk head brake clutch connection - transition block?

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Discussion

alexcurtis

Original Poster:

161 posts

255 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Hi

Hi all

So next question!

When we took the body off the brake pipes into the baulk head had been tightened up so much that they would not undo using an open or brake spanner, so the lines were cut not the end of the world with a complete strip as replacing anyway

So 2 of the 3 nuts have come out of the block but the last has failed and sheared off leaving the remains (brass nut and copper tube) in the block, so questions are

What is this connection is it a transition piece block from the master cylinder splitting the feeds into 3?
Any suggestions to get this out without stripping it away and having to take apart the pedal box etc.? use a stud extractor….

Thanks in advance

Alex

JWzed

185 posts

124 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
alexcurtis said:
Hi

Hi all

So next question!

When we took the body off the brake pipes into the baulk head had been tightened up so much that they would not undo using an open or brake spanner, so the lines were cut not the end of the world with a complete strip as replacing anyway

So 2 of the 3 nuts have come out of the block but the last has failed and sheared off leaving the remains (brass nut and copper tube) in the block, so questions are

What is this connection is it a transition piece block from the master cylinder splitting the feeds into 3?
Any suggestions to get this out without stripping it away and having to take apart the pedal box etc.? use a stud extractor….

Thanks in advance

Alex
This happened to me when I was doing the preps for body removal.
The block is used to connect the hydraulic pipework coming from the brake master cylinder (three lines - two forward and one rear) and clutch master cylinder (one line) on to the systems within the engine bay.
The other side of the block can be accessed from within the footwell. Remove the seat and steering wheel, lay on your back head first along the footwell and you will see it above the pedals.
Undo the pipe unions on this side, remove the four block securing bolts on the engine bay side and remove the block from the footwell side. It should be held in with sealant to prevent water ingress.
New blocks are available. Got mine from Racetech.
I replaced the footwell pipework (don't tighten the unions yet) on to the new block first before securing it to the inner wing bulkhead with the four bolts and sealant. Once the block is in place then finally tighten the footwell pipework unions. Not the most accessible of jobs but achievable.yes

alexcurtis

Original Poster:

161 posts

255 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Cheers JWZed much appreciated guess what I am doing this weekend.....

kris450

658 posts

193 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
I had exactly the same problem during my body off refurb as well. This is the view you should end up with when you've made it to the end of the footwell. Good luck, not a lot of room in there !!


alexcurtis

Original Poster:

161 posts

255 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the photo really useful just can't wait.....at least the seats are loose so can make space easily but never fun like that!

Mr Jenks

1,204 posts

264 months

Sunday 14th February 2016
quotequote all
Not wishing to hi-jack the thread but can anyone shed some light on pipe and union sizes in the block?
The brake pipes are 3/16, but the clutch? 1/4?
3/8" UNF for the brake and 7/16" UNF for clutch? with 12mm x 1.0 for the slave cylinder connection?

Thanks

alexcurtis

Original Poster:

161 posts

255 months

Monday 15th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks all block out but whoever tightened etc one of the connections needs to go to mechanics school beads male connection welded to the Alu block no way its moving even after being drilled or using a stud extractor.....mad hey ho