Challenge Stradale thread
Discussion
Not seen a front bumper shaped like that from the middle.
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/112752005@N06/122509...
Was that specially made for Japan market?
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/112752005@N06/122509...
Was that specially made for Japan market?
Scooby P1 said:
So it sounds likely i may have the same issue as you. I gather it may be to do with emissions as the car runs fine and always says "Check Ok" before starting.
There's nothing wrong with how the fuel cap is sited but to be honest no idea if aircon works or not as haven't really tried. Windows seem to work fine instead.
I also bought mine from DL and it sounds like they may need to come and get it to sort this all out.
Shame as there doesn't seem to be anything wrong but it is a bit disconcerting having this orange engine light on all the time. It comes on before you even start the engine and never goes off at the moment.
Ive had mine since new and I have had the orange light come on here and there and its become a bit of an old friend now. The other one is the gearbox symbol in red now and a again. Regular use makes them both clear generally as in the early years of ownership and peak use they were never a problem. Perhaps buy a engine code reader for £40 and save a trip to the dealer as some of them can reset the faults too.There's nothing wrong with how the fuel cap is sited but to be honest no idea if aircon works or not as haven't really tried. Windows seem to work fine instead.
I also bought mine from DL and it sounds like they may need to come and get it to sort this all out.
Shame as there doesn't seem to be anything wrong but it is a bit disconcerting having this orange engine light on all the time. It comes on before you even start the engine and never goes off at the moment.
Guys
I don't mean to scare anyone but don't ignore CEL's and put it down to tight tolerances or the fuel filler cap.
A few years ago, my Strad threw a CEL and I immediately went on the web, spoke to other owners, got the "they all do that" story and generally went about my business, resetting it etc.
But I wasn't happy and organised a service at Charles Hurst Ferrari in Belfast. They were not happy with it either, and spent ages trying to diagnose the problem. Afraid of the bill I was racking up I was trying to downplay it, but they said you can't ignore it, *it means something* we just don't know what it is.
After all obvious causes were discarded, they eventually rang me and said they want to open up the engine, and at that point I felt I had no option but to agree.
Anyway, it turns out one of the camshaft retaining bolts had snapped and various bits of metal had gone down into the head. The technicians were amazed the car was still going and said its a miracle the cam didn't lift and me ending up completely lunching the engine.
As it was I needed a new head, one of the cams, a bunch of lifters, journals and ancillary parts and a £17k bill.
Now even though I did relaly well on the car because I sold it into this crazy market, it was still a painful thing at the time, but it could have been SO MUCH WORSE if I had ignored the CEL.
This story is not intended to be a scare story or to say you are running with an engine about to implode, but just a cautionary tale to investigate it and not ignore it, because while it might be something minor, it might also be very serious indeed.
I don't mean to scare anyone but don't ignore CEL's and put it down to tight tolerances or the fuel filler cap.
A few years ago, my Strad threw a CEL and I immediately went on the web, spoke to other owners, got the "they all do that" story and generally went about my business, resetting it etc.
But I wasn't happy and organised a service at Charles Hurst Ferrari in Belfast. They were not happy with it either, and spent ages trying to diagnose the problem. Afraid of the bill I was racking up I was trying to downplay it, but they said you can't ignore it, *it means something* we just don't know what it is.
After all obvious causes were discarded, they eventually rang me and said they want to open up the engine, and at that point I felt I had no option but to agree.
Anyway, it turns out one of the camshaft retaining bolts had snapped and various bits of metal had gone down into the head. The technicians were amazed the car was still going and said its a miracle the cam didn't lift and me ending up completely lunching the engine.
As it was I needed a new head, one of the cams, a bunch of lifters, journals and ancillary parts and a £17k bill.
Now even though I did relaly well on the car because I sold it into this crazy market, it was still a painful thing at the time, but it could have been SO MUCH WORSE if I had ignored the CEL.
This story is not intended to be a scare story or to say you are running with an engine about to implode, but just a cautionary tale to investigate it and not ignore it, because while it might be something minor, it might also be very serious indeed.
Well the power of the web remains that at the end of everything you can remain very confused as to what a problem is.
The good news is as I have bought the car so recently, it's going back to the dealer to be fixed and I won't be facing a bill as it's something that happened immediately after delivery.
The reality could be any of the above threads - except fuel filler as that is on tightly and properly!
My gut feel is that it's like anything that doesnt get used and is probably suffering from sitting around for long periods.
It was strange, however, that at the precise moment the light came on for the first time, the engine suddenly misfired and sounded like a rattling old mower for a few seconds, a light throttle prod seemed to sort this out.
However, it does seem to run fine with this light on and that's after even leaving it idling for 10 minutes to ensure the ECU has learned about the emmissions.
But to that last point, if you research on the net, there is talk of a lengthy procedure for resetting the tolerances on the ECU after the battery has been disconnected for any decent length of time and this is my main guess as to the reason the light is on in the first place.
Idle for 10 minutes, then drive at certain RPM for certain amounts of seconds etc, all sounds doable if you have a private airfield and can spend a couple of hours going back an forth and strange but constant speeds.
I am hoping the dealer will discover the problem and it won't be as savage as engine innards breaking, but who knows!?
The good news is as I have bought the car so recently, it's going back to the dealer to be fixed and I won't be facing a bill as it's something that happened immediately after delivery.
The reality could be any of the above threads - except fuel filler as that is on tightly and properly!
My gut feel is that it's like anything that doesnt get used and is probably suffering from sitting around for long periods.
It was strange, however, that at the precise moment the light came on for the first time, the engine suddenly misfired and sounded like a rattling old mower for a few seconds, a light throttle prod seemed to sort this out.
However, it does seem to run fine with this light on and that's after even leaving it idling for 10 minutes to ensure the ECU has learned about the emmissions.
But to that last point, if you research on the net, there is talk of a lengthy procedure for resetting the tolerances on the ECU after the battery has been disconnected for any decent length of time and this is my main guess as to the reason the light is on in the first place.
Idle for 10 minutes, then drive at certain RPM for certain amounts of seconds etc, all sounds doable if you have a private airfield and can spend a couple of hours going back an forth and strange but constant speeds.
I am hoping the dealer will discover the problem and it won't be as savage as engine innards breaking, but who knows!?
Again, not to alarm but make sure the dealer gives you a full and proper accounting for the reason. My car had had a full history with a well known UK main dealer, and looking back at the history the CEL had been noted but they obviously did a reset and didn't do too much investigation. Car was a garage queen so obviously many years could pass with a latent problem not being exposed but I have no idea when it had originally occurred. Shortly after buying I brought it on a road trip to really blast the cobwebs out of it which is when I had the problem. Just make sure it gets resolved to your full satisfaction and don't settle for "we reset the warnings and it seems to have stayed off".
Bunk said:
Again, not to alarm but make sure the dealer gives you a full and proper accounting for the reason. My car had had a full history with a well known UK main dealer, and looking back at the history the CEL had been noted but they obviously did a reset and didn't do too much investigation. Car was a garage queen so obviously many years could pass with a latent problem not being exposed but I have no idea when it had originally occurred. Shortly after buying I brought it on a road trip to really blast the cobwebs out of it which is when I had the problem. Just make sure it gets resolved to your full satisfaction and don't settle for "we reset the warnings and it seems to have stayed off".
Thanks for the warning. I will make sure I do!Ffffaster said:
Are you guys being sarcastic about the Brexit effect on RHD or LHD cars? I must confess, I'm not getting it! Could someone explain. Sorry for the slightly thick question!
I don't know about RHD cars (in reality no one does, although I certainly can't see them increasing in value) but LHD cars in the UK are now much cheaper to buy with a currency other than sterling. So in terms of monies received in sterling, you could be 10% better off if selling a LHD car than you would have been last week. Or to put it another way, you can sell your LHD car for 10% less to attract buyers from Europe and still get the same in sterling as you would have done last week.Edited by bryn_p on Tuesday 28th June 09:18
I am wondering how easy it is to clock these cars? I cannot believe there are so many low mileage cars around (including mine which I recently bought with 10k miles). Considering how limited they were and how many I use to see when going together across the continent with people to multiple events, It really does not make sense. I have the impression that most people that got these cars got them for driving (at least all the guys I met were all driving enthusiasts).
I was under the impression that you could not but I have seen some posts that say this is possible.
I also recently checked MOT history of a CS and there was a reduction in miles from one year to the next (possibly an operator error)
What do you guys think?
I was under the impression that you could not but I have seen some posts that say this is possible.
I also recently checked MOT history of a CS and there was a reduction in miles from one year to the next (possibly an operator error)
What do you guys think?
Takes a few minutes to do however as far as I know the guys who do it haven't figured out how to manipulate the mileage stored on the gearbox. If you'd like to know the real miles hook a SD3 to your car and read the gearbox miles - it tells you the miles in each gear and then total it up. If it doesn't match the miles on your speedo then there you go.
And I reckon most dealers don't carry out the above check because ignorance is bliss...
And I reckon most dealers don't carry out the above check because ignorance is bliss...
Edited by 15HN on Monday 4th July 11:47
15HN said:
Takes a few minutes to do however as far as I know the guys who do it haven't figured out how to manipulate the mileage stored on the gearbox. If you'd like to know the real miles hook a SD3 to your car and read the gearbox miles - it tells you the miles in each gear and then total it up. If it doesn't match the miles on your speedo then there you go.
And I reckon most dealers don't carry out the above check because ignorance is bliss...
What he said ^^ And I reckon most dealers don't carry out the above check because ignorance is bliss...
Edited by 15HN on Monday 4th July 11:47
Great post.Well that would be based on the assumption that someone has either owned the car from new and can reset it to zero and then undertake sufficient miles to tally up with the current record just before a MOT or service.
I have also found out that the gearbox miles on both the 360 and Enzo can be manipulated for any gear including neutral however there is also a further method of checking to see if any of the records have been changed.
I have also found out that the gearbox miles on both the 360 and Enzo can be manipulated for any gear including neutral however there is also a further method of checking to see if any of the records have been changed.
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