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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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andygtt said: Im pretty sure the openings in the undertray are there for access not to cool the engine bay.... also pretty sure any airflow through them will be coming from the underside into the engine bay not the other way around.
I short Im planning the same when I make my carbon undertray with removable panels to get to oil change rather than openings... I want air under the car to exit via the rear diffuser not through the engine bay. Thanks for confirming that Andy, i also put a removable cover over the battery access hole, the other plus point i think for this is that the underpan is now removable in smaller sections depending on what area you want to work on..
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ludoZ3
116 posts
66 months
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anyone's got pics of the front undertray mod?
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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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ludoZ3 said: anyone's got pics of the front undertray mod? Make sure to put a bolt through the front into the clam bracket to secure the front at high speed, i used 2mm alumnium which is overkill but gives a bit of strength to the overhang.. 
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Plumber1
504 posts
30 months
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ludoZ3 said: anyone's got pics of the front undertray mod? There's also picture on noble parts under Tubman racing
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Plumber1
504 posts
30 months
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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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you know you can edit posts 
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ludoZ3
116 posts
66 months
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noted, thanks. I am starting making the mock up tonight and I also need to make the engine belly pan, I will close it too. not much openings on an enzo: 
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Plumber1
504 posts
30 months
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R0162 said: you know you can edit posts Never thought of that 
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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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ludoZ3 said: noted, thanks. I am starting making the mock up tonight and I also need to make the engine belly pan, I will close it too. not much openings on an enzo: may be advisable if not already done to do the aero mods in conjunction to let the air out the back, i would not feel confident sealing it as a stand alone mod as airflow stalls in the engine bay as standard.. I like that pic btw.. ..its worth studying..
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TuxMan
7,144 posts
107 months
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worty
2,196 posts
94 months
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TuxMan said: I've a green felt tip pen you can borrow to change your new seats worty
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ludoZ3
116 posts
66 months
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nice carbon bit Tux.
As for the air stalling in engine bay, I was told that it's compelled by the belly pan being off. I think a solution if needed could be to fit a nasa duct under there, I think some lutos have that and I've seen other cars too.
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Lost soul
5,246 posts
51 months
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R0162 said: Lost soul said: Why the f  k do that , Nobel have spent best part of 30 quid developing the underside airflow of your car lmao..i know... all that money and time they spent on development and testing and i go and mess with it..  . I guess a flat bottom must be a good thing but airflow is a funny thing
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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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With underpan on, the air has trouble exiting out the back, there is a greater force from the wheel arches which stalls the air from exiting the engine bay due to creating a high pressure area at the rear of the engine as it has to build up pressure in order to escape, mainly the air just gradually gets mixed and taken out but its not flowing hence stalling.. That's why you see many people cut holes behind the rear wheels arch and put vents over, this is reduces pressure in wheel arch and allows the air to escape behind the wheel rather than being pushed to the exhaust area.. You can go further then by blocking off the wheel arch from the exhaust area this way only engine bay air that goes in from the scoops exits at this point. If aero mods are not done then the main area affected is around the front turbo as the air here finds it difficult to move into the high pressure area at the rear of the engine..  The main goal is to create a positive pressure area at the front and negative at the rear, this way the air will naturally get drawn over and around the engine and out the back. thats why i wuld not fully block the underpan as a stand alone as i do not know what effect it would have.. but when airflow to engine bay is fixed its easier to assume that blocking the underside will just simplify the air flow..i.e. you have controlled entry points and exit points.. Please also bear in mind that you would need to also improve exits points with larger mesh otherwise again pressure will build up at the rear and stall, effectively the inside of the rear clam acts like a parachute and causes drag..i.e. more air going in that can get out, so again this cause turbulent air, and is why Phil is always advising to get the air out rather than pushing more air in..its a balancing act...and forcing more air in at pressure can actually have a negative effect n engine bay airflow, effectively the exit points have to be greater than the entry point, this way the air coming in will always be at a greater pressure.. A perfect example of this is the tunnel cooling, put mesh which blocks airflow and the mod simply does not work, put higher flowing mesh and it tips the scales so that the greater force/pressure is from the front, then it creates pressure around the front turbo, but that air then has to find a way out.. it cant flow around the engine if there is a greater build up of pressure at the rear due to air not being able to exit fast enough..so although you are forcing air through the tunnel and to the front turbo it still may be a lesser pressure than at the rear of the engine... In summary make sure you concentrate primarily on the exit points, this is the key to good airflow..
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ludoZ3
116 posts
66 months
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I already plan on changing all mesh for bigger ones (slightly larger in front facing openings, much larger in rear facing opening) I dont really care for looks, form follow function as far as I am concerned. The Noble from the start is a purposeful looking car, not a beauty queen IMHO.
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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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I think the aero mods actually compliment the look of the car, but they are primarily functional and serve a purpose..  Vents to wheel arch, whale tail vents, mesh changed to better flowing, mesh removed behind IC, and lip cut off lower clam..
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ludoZ3
116 posts
66 months
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what do you mean by lip cut off?
I am not sure if I want to start cutting the body work...
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R0162
Original Poster
2,435 posts
33 months
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That bit that is black and juts out just above the exhaust, it curls round and under. cut this off and it increases depth of aperture by 1 inch , it also allows tail pipes to project out more without affecting opening of the clam. All those holes cut out are without having to repaint, you just cut carefully with fine blade or dremel, sand internally then touch up the cut face inside with black paint.. cutting the fibreglass is not an issue..i always remembered the look of horror on my mechanics face when i first started cutting up the clam, by the end of the day it was job done and looked like it came like that from the factory. Just make sure to draw and outline of where you want to cut first and try t stay inside the line 
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ludoZ3
116 posts
66 months
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AMG Merc
8,221 posts
122 months
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