Sticky Throttle
Discussion
Hoping for some help please..
I've just returned from a track day, and the throttle started sticking wide open.
It was quite alarming the first time it happened - on lift off at the end of a straight prior to braking, and the car didn't start to slow as you'd expect.
I was therefore 10m late braking and missed the corner.
It kept on sticking on the way back to the pits, but corrected itself once back.
The same happen on the next 3 sessions, after perhaps 5 or 6 laps would stick open again.
Absolutely fine for the drive home, so I'm guessing it only happens when wide open.
I tried WD40 at both ends but to no avail. No sign of fraying or kinking of the cable.
Has anyone experienced this? Could it be in the throttle body or is it more likely cable related? Operating the throttle at the throttle body, it springs back nicely. But the peddle did feel sort of dead when it stuck making me think it's the cable.
Is the cable easy to change - can you pull it through the tunnel or does the floor need removal.
Didn't want any drama before Rockingham
Thanks for any suggestions.
I've just returned from a track day, and the throttle started sticking wide open.
It was quite alarming the first time it happened - on lift off at the end of a straight prior to braking, and the car didn't start to slow as you'd expect.
I was therefore 10m late braking and missed the corner.It kept on sticking on the way back to the pits, but corrected itself once back.
The same happen on the next 3 sessions, after perhaps 5 or 6 laps would stick open again.
Absolutely fine for the drive home, so I'm guessing it only happens when wide open.
I tried WD40 at both ends but to no avail. No sign of fraying or kinking of the cable.
Has anyone experienced this? Could it be in the throttle body or is it more likely cable related? Operating the throttle at the throttle body, it springs back nicely. But the peddle did feel sort of dead when it stuck making me think it's the cable.
Is the cable easy to change - can you pull it through the tunnel or does the floor need removal.
Didn't want any drama before Rockingham
Thanks for any suggestions.
Sounds like the know problem of the throttle cable outer sheath melting and locking the cable up. Same thing happened to me at brands noble day. After a few runs, and the associated extra heat, mine was sticking at 3000 revs - not a good plan on the m25 going home so I had it trailered to mv from the infield.
This ocurred with cars that had the cable routed centrally over the forward turbo. The fix was to reroute a new cable to the right side along the top chassis rail. Of course, not sure if this is your issue but sounds mighty familiar.
Ps - no floor removal necessary.
This ocurred with cars that had the cable routed centrally over the forward turbo. The fix was to reroute a new cable to the right side along the top chassis rail. Of course, not sure if this is your issue but sounds mighty familiar.
Ps - no floor removal necessary.
AMG Merc said:
Sounds like the know problem of the throttle cable outer sheath melting and locking the cable up. Same thing happened to me at brands noble day. After a few runs, and the associated extra heat, mine was sticking at 3000 revs - not a good plan on the m25 going home so I had it trailered to mv from the infield.
This ocurred with cars that had the cable routed centrally over the forward turbo. The fix was to reroute a new cable to the right side along the top chassis rail. Of course, not sure if this is your issue but sounds mighty familiar.
Ps - no floor removal necessary.
Thanks Rob, I'll look for any evidence of melting.This ocurred with cars that had the cable routed centrally over the forward turbo. The fix was to reroute a new cable to the right side along the top chassis rail. Of course, not sure if this is your issue but sounds mighty familiar.
Ps - no floor removal necessary.
Then sourcing and fitting a new cable... Thnx
AMG Merc said:
Sounds like the know problem of the throttle cable outer sheath melting and locking the cable up. Same thing happened to me at brands noble day. After a few runs, and the associated extra heat, mine was sticking at 3000 revs - not a good plan on the m25 going home so I had it trailered to mv from the infield.
This ocurred with cars that had the cable routed centrally over the forward turbo. The fix was to reroute a new cable to the right side along the top chassis rail. Of course, not sure if this is your issue but sounds mighty familiar.
Ps - no floor removal necessary.
Perfect answer , I would go so far as to advise anybody with the throttle cable running over This ocurred with cars that had the cable routed centrally over the forward turbo. The fix was to reroute a new cable to the right side along the top chassis rail. Of course, not sure if this is your issue but sounds mighty familiar.
Ps - no floor removal necessary.
The front turbo to change it and run it down the passenger cill !!!!
It's pretty dangerous fitted near the front turbo !!!
It seems that the cable is at fault. It runs over the turbo to intercooler pipe, so keeping it away from the actual turbo and heat shield so it doesn't get any closer than about 5cm from the turbo. I can't see evidence of melting, but either way it needs replacing, and fast.
I understand the advice to route the cable down the sill, but I need a quick fix. Is this an at-home job or do I need a garage and a ramp. I guess I'll be on the phone to Jetstream for advice and hopefully supply of a cable, but need to fix it locally.
Just seen your thread from 2010 Tux, when your cable melted. Do you recall how you got the cable down the sill? Did you remove the sill floor panel? It seems that the difficulty if getting the cable from the front bulkhead into the sill. The exit at the rear is fine.
I'm thinking that I might try to fix it the standard way through the tunnel and the do the sill mod at a later date. That way I might make it to Rockingham...
I understand the advice to route the cable down the sill, but I need a quick fix. Is this an at-home job or do I need a garage and a ramp. I guess I'll be on the phone to Jetstream for advice and hopefully supply of a cable, but need to fix it locally.
Just seen your thread from 2010 Tux, when your cable melted. Do you recall how you got the cable down the sill? Did you remove the sill floor panel? It seems that the difficulty if getting the cable from the front bulkhead into the sill. The exit at the rear is fine.
I'm thinking that I might try to fix it the standard way through the tunnel and the do the sill mod at a later date. That way I might make it to Rockingham...
Don't remember it being too bad , remove drivers side rear wheel and wheel arch inner to allow access to sil , connect cable to peddle ,loop around and clip along bottom of the front wheel arch .
Drill hole through to cill and push new cable into cill and along until rear wheel . Then connect up .
Best photo I have but if you need more just shout .
Tux
Drill hole through to cill and push new cable into cill and along until rear wheel . Then connect up .
Best photo I have but if you need more just shout .
Tux
TuxMan said:
Don't remember it being too bad , remove drivers side rear wheel and wheel arch inner to allow access to sil , connect cable to peddle ,loop around and clip along bottom of the front wheel arch .
Drill hole through to cill and push new cable into cill and along until rear wheel . Then connect up .
Best photo I have but if you need more just shout .
Tux
Thanks Tux, I looked hard and then could see the cable as you describe.Drill hole through to cill and push new cable into cill and along until rear wheel . Then connect up .
Best photo I have but if you need more just shout .
Tux
Where did you drill the hole into the sill? There's a removable shaped panel to the rear of the front wheel arch - did you go through there?
On reflection it looks like the sill routing may end up easier than through the tunnel.
Blu3R said:
Just make absolutely sure that the wheel won't catch it on full lock! Ask Andy about that one....
Clip it at close intervals and go as low as possible before it turns through the new hole.
Noted! Clip it at close intervals and go as low as possible before it turns through the new hole.
It did cross my mind, especially as there's evidence that the wheel has rubbed the inner arch higher up.Job done. I found it easy to feed the new cable through the sill, and I imagine much simpler than trying to route through the tunnel. This solution only required a small hole in the fibreglass inspection panel on the inside of the front wheel arch. Filled the resulting gap with sealant, and routed the cable low down in the wheel arch with P-clips. I found that the cable was just the correct length too. Was worried initially as it appear too short for this route, but was OK in the end. Good job it wasn't 5cm shorter.
The old cable was easy to pull out through the tunnel once disconnected. On close inspection I found that the damage was not great. No real evidence of melting - I think that the outer sheath has just worn over time, and then the elements have got in.
And this section was under the rear section of the tub and was also rubbing (not actually melted).
All fixed now, so Rock-on Rockingham!
P.S. I wish my car was as clean as Tux's - and thanks all for your help with this job.
The old cable was easy to pull out through the tunnel once disconnected. On close inspection I found that the damage was not great. No real evidence of melting - I think that the outer sheath has just worn over time, and then the elements have got in.
And this section was under the rear section of the tub and was also rubbing (not actually melted).
All fixed now, so Rock-on Rockingham!
P.S. I wish my car was as clean as Tux's - and thanks all for your help with this job.
Edited by Jarcy on Saturday 9th May 09:53
OK, so it now seems that my offside handbrake cable has also gone the same way. Sticking so now that only the near side wheel will lock under the handbrake. To be honest, it could have been like this for a little while without me noticing. I think this because the adjuster bar in the tunnel is bent where the adjuster locknuts sit, suggesting that it has been pulled unevenly by the canterlever bar that attaches the cables, for some time.
Do I presume that this is a Noble only part, or does anyone have an aftermarket solution?
And a different problem, I've had a turbo coolant hose split - the one running from a T near the expansion bottle to the front turbo. Any suggestions as to what to replace with, and should I do the lot for good measure (I think I know the answer). BTW I don't want blue silicone hoses - they'd look rubbish in my engine bay. I see ACT do a full kit of blue silicone hoses, but I don't want to replace the air hoses and blue looks really naff (in a red car, at least).
I'm thinking of changing the expansion bottle while I'm at it, as the plastic one has cracks forming on the top (there must be quite some presure in there!). If I go for the ProAlloy one, did I see somewhere that you need to source a special high-pressure cap for it?
Thanks all.
Do I presume that this is a Noble only part, or does anyone have an aftermarket solution?
And a different problem, I've had a turbo coolant hose split - the one running from a T near the expansion bottle to the front turbo. Any suggestions as to what to replace with, and should I do the lot for good measure (I think I know the answer). BTW I don't want blue silicone hoses - they'd look rubbish in my engine bay. I see ACT do a full kit of blue silicone hoses, but I don't want to replace the air hoses and blue looks really naff (in a red car, at least).
I'm thinking of changing the expansion bottle while I'm at it, as the plastic one has cracks forming on the top (there must be quite some presure in there!). If I go for the ProAlloy one, did I see somewhere that you need to source a special high-pressure cap for it?
Thanks all.
Jarcy said:
And a different problem, I've had a turbo coolant hose split - the one running from a T near the expansion bottle to the front turbo. Any suggestions as to what to replace with, and should I do the lot for good measure (I think I know the answer). BTW I don't want blue silicone hoses - they'd look rubbish in my engine bay. I see ACT do a full kit of blue silicone hoses, but I don't want to replace the air hoses and blue looks really naff (in a red car, at least).
ACT do the hoses in black (what I have) or red but I think you'll have to buy the entire kit. I don't believe they offer individual hoses.Jarcy said:
I'm thinking of changing the expansion bottle while I'm at it, as the plastic one has cracks forming on the top (there must be quite some presure in there!). If I go for the ProAlloy one, did I see somewhere that you need to source a special high-pressure cap for it?
You don't have to use an uprated cap, if the standard one is fine now then it'll continue to be. If you find you're venting through the cap then you should really be checking the whole system as simply replacing the cap for a higher pressure one will put extra strain on the rad and hoses. I don't know what sort of spec your car is but be careful you don't let high pressure find the next weakest point.Oh and one last point - the PA header tank is a work of art and won't split like the Ford tank, this is true. What's also true though is you can buy around 15 Ford tanks from ebay for the price of the PA....
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