Floor Pan Replacement

[david.mt]

The devil said:

david.mt said:

OK...have bought some sealed rivets and various TEK self drilling screws so will have a play around and let you know which provide the best fastening and sizes etc.

Any more thoughts/suggestion or questions then shout away.

I used a TEK screw when I did my floor over christmas but I must admit the plan is to change them for a stainless self drilling screw when I can find some.

so if anyone knows where they can be purchased let me know.

I did try stainless self tappers from screwfix and they were useless, the heads were so soft they chewed up

I had the same issue with SS self tappers so will not be using them on the floor so the hex head fastners and rivets are a better option.

You can get size 8 (4.2mm) and 10 (4.8mm) stainless steel self drilling screws from eBay and most fastner suppliers. I used a 4mm drill bit to remove the rivets and also have a 4.8mm drill (the sealed rivets that I could find were 4.8mm) so will be finding the best size of drilling screw to use in these holes and let you know in the write up. Also just bought 50ml of Loctite 243 to seal and lock for only £7.50 .

There is someone on eBay (UKDrills) selling packs of 10 cobalt stub drills for £6 delivered which will be more than enough to drill out all the rivets on several floors.

Being an accountant I have to save the pennies

[Jim O.]

david.mt said:

Also just bought 50ml of Loctite 243 to seal and lock for only £7.50 .

Given how these screws tend to gall or corrode in place, making it easy to strip out the heads or break them off when removing, I probably wouldn't suggest using Loctite 243. A sealer-only, like Hylomar or even RTV would weather proof, but still be easy to take apart in the future.

[mgbond]

How much waxoyl should you use for the front section middle and rear?

Bondy

[david.mt]

Ok....played around a bit earlier.

The rear floor panel is off:



The front has all the rivets drilled out:



And a close up of the bolts that also need to be removed - the nuts are under the front clam which needs to be removed to give full access.



Got bored so fitted some new wheels with wider tyres:




More tomorrow.

[TuxMan]

Looking good dave ! Love the new wheels !!!! :-)

[andygtt]

Got any more details on the wheels as I love them

[david.mt]

Andy - they are TrafficStar RTS alloys - I found them late last year at a bargain price so couldn't resist as they are supposed to be very strong. The valves are quite stange - like those used for split rims. Caused me a bit of grief for the pressure/temperature senders but managed to get them bonded in and work a treat.

Did a bit more work on the floor earlier. Most of the riviets in the final centre section are now out and managed to loosen all the bolts under the seats (Number 5 allen key head).



The bolts were M8 x 20 so order some stainless steel replacements. You can also see the hex head screw that I will probably used to replace the rivets.

I used a 4mm drill bit to remove all the rivets and then hex screws are 4.8mm and bite really well. With a bit of a flange on the head they should seal better than screws but will also use a bit of thread seal.

EDITED to include Jim O. instructions to remove front clam in case you want to replace the front panel too:

"Removing the front clam only takes a few minutes - flip it up, undo the two light connectors, pull the clips out of the pivot pins, undo the two leashes. Flip it down, pull the two pivot pins, wait for the other guy in the shop to finish welding and walk over, lift off the clam and put it somewhere safe. Put the pivot pins and clips somewhere where they won't get lost (like back in the chassis holes where they belong). Done."

And I can confirm he is spot on

Edited by david.mt on Sunday 21st February 14:58

[david.mt]

OK - bought a few bits this week (exhaust wrap, ahdesive heat shield, heat tape, more screws and a horn!). Spent some time in the garage.

Both clams removed:



Got to the 6 nuts that were holding the front floor pan on and removed them:



Drop the front floor pan:



Dropped the rear:




Will hopefully remove the centre panels tomorrow so I can start cleaning up ready for resealing and replacing. Will also add some heat shield to the intercooler box, replace the radiator and some hoses, replace the horn, wrap the exhaust and do the tunnel/brake cooling mods - will add more photos as I go along.

EDIT - the rear chassis has some kind of grease sprayed on - is this required as a barrier between the chassis and the floor pan as this area is not sealed. If required what the suggested product?

Edited by david.mt on Saturday 27th February 18:59

[Stella Artois]

david.mt said:

Please can you put my mind at rest. Are they directional tyres, as if they are, isn't one on the wrong way? Its bugging me, Its the inner tread pattern on both, I'd expect them to be symmetrical to each other if directional. If not, its an optical illusion.

[david.mt]

Stella Artois said:

Please can you put my mind at rest. Are they directional tyres, as if they are, isn't one on the wrong way? Its bugging me, Its the inner tread pattern on both, I'd expect them to be symmetrical to each other if directional. If not, its an optical illusion.

Thanks for your concern . They are Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetrics .

Bit more today (Sunday):

Removed the footwell section:



You can see where the sealant has failed and water can easily get in:



Then got bored of the dirty job so started to practice with the heat wrap:

Edited by david.mt on Sunday 28th February 15:01

[david.mt]

Had a busy week and work and spent most of it in London so no real progress on the car. I did however read a few sites about galvanic corrosion particularly between steel and aluminium.

Now thinking about that and a recommendation to use some kind of gasket I am tempted to use some closed cell neoprene tape between the floor pan and the chassis rather than Sikaflex or any other sealant. This will surely be much easier to use and less mess - I also wouldn't have to work like an idiot to get it all fastened back before the sealant cured. I also have stainless steel fixing which I can add some neoprene washers to.

Neoprene is waterproof, so as long as the tape is thick enough to cover any minor undulations in the aluminium panels I can't see how it would not be effective. It would also stop any contact between the steel and aluminium and the washer would prevent the same on the exterior of the floor.

I could stick the neoprene to the panels and then just offer them up and fasten back the chassis - the resultant seal should easily be waterproof.

Any comments?

[The devil]

Yes

I bought some 2mm neoprene from e bay (20 mtrs) stuck it on then I put a bead of silicon round the inside of the neoprene and on it went

No leaks

[david.mt]

Ok - I can feel the divorce coming soon as after another day in the garage we made some more progress:

The floor is now completely off:



The front end dismantled and the radiator off:



The back end dismantled and the exhaust fully wrapped:



And all the panels piled up waiting to be taken for coating - I don't have time to clean them myself - just doing the chassis is going to take an age.



I just have on screw left to remove from the tunnel access plate and then I can start rebuilding - I just hope I can remember how it all goes back together again

[TuxMan]

Looks good Dave !! Buy wife new pair of Louboutins ...... Works for me :-)

[david.mt]

TuxMan said:

Looks good Dave !! Buy wife new pair of Louboutins ...... Works for me :-)

Mine is clearly much cheaper so dinner out usually works

Not much progress this week as spent most of it working away. I did sneak a couple of hours today and now the tunnel plate has been removed (bought a right angled driver), with holes cut and one flange riveted in place. Now waiting for the second flange which is on back order .



I also managed to remove the baffle plate from the air scoops so they are now ready to go back on the car - they have just been sprayed to clean them up.



Should get the floor panels etc back at the end of this week and with a clear weekend I am hoping to make some good progress.

[TuxMan]

Looks good mate !!!

[david.mt]

For anyone still watching - I am almost ready to the put the floor back on.

I have all the aluminium panels back now with a marine black powder coat:





If you look closely you can see how badly corroded the metal is - this is on a 2005 model and it was suggested that if I had left it much longer then I would have had to replace the aluminium.

Rear splash guards now back in place:



Heatshields refreshed:



Chassis treated to a wire brush treatment and some rust primer on the more exposed areas (I will obviously paint them black):



And finally some neoprene washers to provide an additional gasket between the stainless steel fastenings and the aluminium sheet (I think I will use at least 400 when finished ):

[TuxMan]

Hi Dave ,very very nice mate going to look the dogs bks when its done !!!!! be a shame to get it dirty

[david.mt]

TuxMan said:

Hi Dave ,very very nice mate going to look the dogs bks when its done !!!!! be a shame to get it dirty

Yes - bit pissed off as the weather has been great and would love to get it dirty but let down with the remaining flange - ordered on 1 March and told in stock but clearly not and second will not arrive until next Tuesday/Wednesday. Can't rebuild the front until the tunnel access plate is put back in place.

Other than that I have everything ready to put it all back together. The rear end is now back so once the radiator is fitted it should start up (after a bit of a charge).

Will get most of the floor back this weekend so just need to refit the radiator sometime during the week and make sure everything is in order for next weekend.

[TuxMan]

Yep know what you mean , getting all the stuff together is a major feat !!!!! After 5 months I am still waiting for a few bits !!!!! Are you going next weekened be good to meetup for a chat ! Simon