Floor Pan Replacement

[david.mt]

FUNKSTER UK said:

That's a fantastic job, I would like to do mine later this year or next but I doubt very much it will be to that standard.
Where did you get the blue air hoses for the front from?
Matty

Thanks - if you are in no rush you can make a real good job of it - the drilling of the rivets and replacement screws are quite addictive.

The blue hose was from Autoperformanceonline. They did have an eShop but can't find it at the moment so here's a link to their eBay shop:

linky

It's actually a 2 ply silicone coated air duct which looks great but because of the silicone and strong metal it does not bend very well. I was going to replace the entire ducting with it but there was no way it would bend around to fit on the tunnel access plate so just used the old ducting that was already in for that and used some of the silicone to connect back to the heater air box.

It's also not particularly cheap but I have 1.85m left if anybody wants a sample.

[mgbond]

So, you didn't actually seal the floor just use the rubber? I may well do that also but I might run sealant around the inside edges once the floor is on.

Nice work.

Bondy

[david.mt]

mgbond said:

So, you didn't actually seal the floor just use the rubber? I may well do that also but I might run sealant around the inside edges once the floor is on.

Nice work.

Bondy

Yes - just used a neoprene strip on all the chassis rather than any sealant. You can see the inside of the floor here where I have prepared for the carpet:



I am going to cover the floor pan with some bitumen based soundproofing which will also act as a further seal but no reason why you can't run a silcone bead around the inside first to make sure that no water gets in although the neoprene should provide a waterproof seal....time for a carpet thread

Actually thinking about it I will run some silcone around the inside edges when I fit the bitumen soundproofing as with those combined it will not only give a great seal to the inside edges but also raise the floor by a few mm before putting the underlay and carpet down so a good shout Bondy

Edited by david.mt on Sunday 18th April 21:40

[mgbond]

david.mt said:

The devil said:

have you a link to where you bought the screws

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/

I drilled out the rivets with a 4mm cobalt bit and then I am using the 4.8mm stainless steel self drilling screws (as below) to refix the floor. I am also using some neoprene washers to ensure there is not contact between the aluminium and the fasteners.

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/acatalog/Self_Dril...

Dave, What length screw did you use, quantity and where did you get the washers from.

Going to attempt mine over next weekend.

Cheers

Bondy

[david.mt]

mgbond said:

david.mt said:

The devil said:

have you a link to where you bought the screws

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/

I drilled out the rivets with a 4mm cobalt bit and then I am using the 4.8mm stainless steel self drilling screws (as below) to refix the floor. I am also using some neoprene washers to ensure there is not contact between the aluminium and the fasteners.

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/acatalog/Self_Dril...

Dave, What length screw did you use, quantity and where did you get the washers from.

Going to attempt mine over next weekend.

Cheers

Bondy

Bondy - I used mainly 16mm but also bought some 13mm and may have used a few. The neoprene washers were bought from eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-Neoprene-Washers-Adhesive...

I think they were these and you need lots so contacts the seller for a bulk deal .

Good luck.

[mgbond]

david.mt said:

mgbond said:

david.mt said:

The devil said:

have you a link to where you bought the screws

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/

I drilled out the rivets with a 4mm cobalt bit and then I am using the 4.8mm stainless steel self drilling screws (as below) to refix the floor. I am also using some neoprene washers to ensure there is not contact between the aluminium and the fasteners.

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/acatalog/Self_Dril...

Dave, What length screw did you use, quantity and where did you get the washers from.

Going to attempt mine over next weekend.

Cheers

Bondy

Bondy - I used mainly 16mm but also bought some 13mm and may have used a few. The neoprene washers were bought from eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-Neoprene-Washers-Adhesive...

I think they were these and you need lots so contacts the seller for a bulk deal .

Good luck.

Cheers Dave, How many washers and screws shall I go for?

[The devil]

mgbond said:

david.mt said:

mgbond said:

david.mt said:

The devil said:

have you a link to where you bought the screws

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/

I drilled out the rivets with a 4mm cobalt bit and then I am using the 4.8mm stainless steel self drilling screws (as below) to refix the floor. I am also using some neoprene washers to ensure there is not contact between the aluminium and the fasteners.

http://www.shop4fasteners.co.uk/acatalog/Self_Dril...

Dave, What length screw did you use, quantity and where did you get the washers from.

Going to attempt mine over next weekend.

Cheers

Bondy

Bondy - I used mainly 16mm but also bought some 13mm and may have used a few. The neoprene washers were bought from eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M6-Neoprene-Washers-Adhesive...

I think they were these and you need lots so contacts the seller for a bulk deal .

Good luck.

Cheers Dave, How many washers and screws shall I go for?

It seemed about 5 million to me

[david.mt]

The devil said:

It seemed about 5 million to me

Yes it does seem a lot more but if you are doing the entire floor then it will be around 600 screws (maybe more). I did have to make several additional purchases as I underestimate the number required!

Now the stainless steel screws are nice and shiny but the compromise is they are more brittle than the normal steel screws and you only need the washers if you are as daft as me and want to ensure that there is limited contact between the steel and aluminium - I also got the aluminium powder coated to protect it as even on a 2005 car you could see how badly corroded the panels had become where there had been a metal reaction. The neoprene strip on the chassis also provides a barrier for this corrosion.

What I do have (if you want them) is a very large bag (hundreds - I think 400+ maybe more) Ruspert covered self drilling screws (4.8mm x 16mm) which are identical to the stainless but made out of normal steel and have a grey rust proof covering. They are much stronger and drill up easily without the threat of snapping the head off. You can have them at cost plus postage which will be around £15 delivered .

I used a handfull of these to make sure the hole was threaded properly before using the stainless and to be fair I didn't have that many stainless snap but the manufacuring quality on some were a bit dubious and I did have say a dozen snap (using both the electric drill and a ratchet with just a bit too much elbow power) which were a bh to get out - most just got hammered back into the chassis and then sprayed some grease in the hole to keep them there!

I would also recommended a few stainless rivets (sealed) on the leading corners of certain panels rather than the screws to make sure the seal is very tight where water will be forced at the seam when driving. You will also need these on the fastenings around the centre tunnel as they come straight through into the footwell as I found out when I stood on one!!

Hope that helps.

[mgbond]

Cheers Dave,

Everything ordered now so should be fine. I'm only interested on sealing the cabin and I intend to run a silicone bead all round the inside for extra protection. I'll also be doing the tunnel mod.

A couple of weeks later I'll be fitting the charge cooler i hope.

Bondy

[mgbond]

Right floor is off and cleaned ready to go back on.

The chassis is in great condition. The sealant that was used originally has come off ok in most areas but some parts just won't peel off.

Any ideas how to get this off?

Bondy

[david.mt]

mgbond said:

Right floor is off and cleaned ready to go back on.

The chassis is in great condition. The sealant that was used originally has come off ok in most areas but some parts just won't peel off.

Any ideas how to get this off?

Bondy

I just used a scraper and a sharp knife and lots of elbow grease

[mgbond]

scraper is just not doing it. wondered if there were any solvents to use?

[david.mt]

mgbond said:

scraper is just not doing it. wondered if there were any solvents to use?

Need to improve your technique

[mgbond]

Just been told there is a gel from B&Q that devolves silicone so going to get a tube tomorrow.

[2.5bluenob]

mgbond said:

Just been told there is a gel from B&Q that devolves silicone so going to get a tube tomorrow.

Thats handy to know ive never come across that before

[mgbond]

[The devil]

mgbond said:

Hmmm, looks like the old handbrake cable needs adjusting there Bondy

[david.mt]

I would also have hidden the Kylie CD in the door pocket

[mgbond]

Ha Ha, I thought someone would mention the hand break. Its adjusted now but still has a lot of movement. I sort that out another day.

Floor now on just need to replace a couple of screws as they sheared. Going to run a bead of silicone on the inside and thats done.

To top it off I now have working fans and air con. We cut open the box as I have a new assy on its way and found that there was a lose connection going to some capacitors.

Also got the tunnel mod done. Couldn't get the plate out so we cut the holes in place, got the flutes on and run the ducts. Those bolts would just not come off the race supports.

Could not of done it without the help of my local greek car mad buddies

Bondy

[FUNKSTER UK]

mgbond said:

Also got the tunnel mod done. Couldn't get the plate out so we cut the holes in place


Bondy

Was that the Grant Technique with two tubes of silicone and a catapult