Floor Pan Replacement

Floor Pan Replacement

Author
Discussion

mgbond

6,749 posts

231 months

Sunday 11th July 2010
quotequote all
Not quite. drilled the holes and the mounted the funnel mounts to the plate and then attached the ducting. No silicone used smile

Bondy

slidein

22 posts

164 months

Monday 12th July 2010
quotequote all
mgbond said:
Not quite. drilled the holes and the mounted the funnel mounts to the plate and then attached the ducting. No silicone used smile

Bondy
hello bondy

could you briefly explain what a tunnel mod is for and do the 3Rs already have it done ?

thanks

mgbond

6,749 posts

231 months

Monday 12th July 2010
quotequote all
Ok, I'll try.

If you drive with the windows open then a vacuum is created that draws hot air from the engine bay up the tunnel of the car. This makes the cabin even warmer than normal and in some peoples case can heat the gear knob (never had that one myself).

At the front of the car there are air ducts and (on the 3R) two ducts per side. this channels air to the fan box. Basically you disconnect two from the box (block off the remaining holes) and route them to the tunnel. When moving this creates a positive pressure and also can help cool the engine bay a little.

No Noble has this as std.

Bondy

slidein

22 posts

164 months

Tuesday 13th July 2010
quotequote all
mgbond said:
Ok, I'll try.

If you drive with the windows open then a vacuum is created that draws hot air from the engine bay up the tunnel of the car. This makes the cabin even warmer than normal and in some peoples case can heat the gear knob (never had that one myself).

At the front of the car there are air ducts and (on the 3R) two ducts per side. this channels air to the fan box. Basically you disconnect two from the box (block off the remaining holes) and route them to the tunnel. When moving this creates a positive pressure and also can help cool the engine bay a little.

No Noble has this as std.


Cheers , sounds like complicated stuff .... so does it get very hot inside the cabin and hot where your feet are ... is the air con good enough to cool things down ?


Bondy

Blu3R

2,362 posts

198 months

Tuesday 13th July 2010
quotequote all
slidein said:
so does it get very hot inside the cabin and hot where your feet are ... is the air con good enough to cool things down ?
Yes, yes and no!!

Unfortunately you will find as I do that opening the windows on a hot day makes things worse. You need to have the windows shut and the AC on 2 or 3 to maintain a decent temperature. I turn it off to enjoy the extra power and suffer most of the time but I imagine if I had leather, I'd be swimming by the end of most journeys.

GC1

908 posts

179 months

Wednesday 10th November 2010
quotequote all
what do people do with the old rivets after you've drilled them out ? let the bits roll around inside the chassis ? any quick method of cleaning the chassis up ? wire brush attachments fitted to drill ?.cheers

jdearden

1,746 posts

176 months

Wednesday 10th November 2010
quotequote all
Fill the chassis with wax oil. Stops them rattling.

mgbond

6,749 posts

231 months

Wednesday 10th November 2010
quotequote all
jdearden said:
Fill the chassis with wax oil. Stops them rattling.
Yep, worked for me. Fill though is a stong word, don't use too much.

Bondy

GC1

908 posts

179 months

Thursday 11th November 2010
quotequote all
Thanks guys will be getting some..

hollowpockets

5,908 posts

215 months

Monday 7th March 2011
quotequote all
Guys sorry to bring up an old one here but im copying Davids floor job, where can i get the roll of neoprene tape from? ive bought the bolts and neoprene washers as per the links.

Cheers

Graham

The devil

2,123 posts

182 months

Monday 7th March 2011
quotequote all
graham

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Self-Adhesive-Neoprene-Gaske...

something similar to this but wider

andy

TuxMan

9,010 posts

237 months

Monday 7th March 2011
quotequote all
I use a company called Woolies for all my stuff , I'm sure they have loads of the stuff .

JulesBliss

1,145 posts

156 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
Doing this myself next week

Just to confirm what is needed!

4mm cobalt drill bit
Self Drilling Screw Stainless Steel- 4.8 x 16mm and some 13mm
M6 Neoprene Washers-- any idea how many?
Neoprene tape. How thick should it be?

Is that all i need?

Julian

jdearden

1,746 posts

176 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
I would get a couple of drill bits. As they have a tendency to snap.

mgbond

6,749 posts

231 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
JulesBliss said:
Doing this myself next week

Just to confirm what is needed!

4mm cobalt drill bit
Self Drilling Screw Stainless Steel- 4.8 x 16mm and some 13mm
M6 Neoprene Washers-- any idea how many?
Neoprene tape. How thick should it be?

Is that all i need?

Julian
Exercise your hands and fingers ready as its a pain to remove the left over silicone smile

Bondy

JulesBliss

1,145 posts

156 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
Haha, Yes i can imagine its going to be a pain.

I may be able to do it on a ramp, If not it will be over a pit.

How wide should the neoprene be?


mgbond

6,749 posts

231 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
JulesBliss said:
Haha, Yes i can imagine its going to be a pain.

I may be able to do it on a ramp, If not it will be over a pit.

How wide should the neoprene be?
1 Inch

JulesBliss

1,145 posts

156 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
Where did you get yours from?

R0162

2,435 posts

163 months

Monday 6th June 2011
quotequote all
I personally would not use the neoprene strip, you need the sealant to also create a seal at the screw or rivet locations, or water will ingress and eat away at your chassis, i personally think the neoprene strip only stops water from getting into the cockpit but it will be at the expense of your chassis. When you use a sealant, it squeezes through the holes when your offer the floor pan back up, i leave it coming through the hole and offer the rivet into the sealant, it creates a nice seal, just leave it to dry for an hour and you can peal off the excess at the rivet locations with ease.

ACROWE

294 posts

224 months

Tuesday 1st November 2011
quotequote all
I have been replacing my floor and found a couple of places that water has been leaking into my car.

The first is where the steering wheel shaft comes through the bulkhead. There is a rubber boot that is supposed to be sealed to the bulkhead, mine had come away slightly, certainly enough to let water in.

The second place on mine was the rear bulkhead on the passenger side. It looks like water runs across the top of the fuel tank and then down the rear bulkhead. You can see the corrosion in the picture below.



One word of warning though, the rear bulkhead panel is one piece that goes all the way down the sill to the footwell! redface