Floor Pan Replacement
Discussion
Ok, I'll try.
If you drive with the windows open then a vacuum is created that draws hot air from the engine bay up the tunnel of the car. This makes the cabin even warmer than normal and in some peoples case can heat the gear knob (never had that one myself).
At the front of the car there are air ducts and (on the 3R) two ducts per side. this channels air to the fan box. Basically you disconnect two from the box (block off the remaining holes) and route them to the tunnel. When moving this creates a positive pressure and also can help cool the engine bay a little.
No Noble has this as std.
Bondy
If you drive with the windows open then a vacuum is created that draws hot air from the engine bay up the tunnel of the car. This makes the cabin even warmer than normal and in some peoples case can heat the gear knob (never had that one myself).
At the front of the car there are air ducts and (on the 3R) two ducts per side. this channels air to the fan box. Basically you disconnect two from the box (block off the remaining holes) and route them to the tunnel. When moving this creates a positive pressure and also can help cool the engine bay a little.
No Noble has this as std.
Bondy
mgbond said:
Ok, I'll try.
If you drive with the windows open then a vacuum is created that draws hot air from the engine bay up the tunnel of the car. This makes the cabin even warmer than normal and in some peoples case can heat the gear knob (never had that one myself).
At the front of the car there are air ducts and (on the 3R) two ducts per side. this channels air to the fan box. Basically you disconnect two from the box (block off the remaining holes) and route them to the tunnel. When moving this creates a positive pressure and also can help cool the engine bay a little.
No Noble has this as std.
Cheers , sounds like complicated stuff .... so does it get very hot inside the cabin and hot where your feet are ... is the air con good enough to cool things down ?
Bondy
If you drive with the windows open then a vacuum is created that draws hot air from the engine bay up the tunnel of the car. This makes the cabin even warmer than normal and in some peoples case can heat the gear knob (never had that one myself).
At the front of the car there are air ducts and (on the 3R) two ducts per side. this channels air to the fan box. Basically you disconnect two from the box (block off the remaining holes) and route them to the tunnel. When moving this creates a positive pressure and also can help cool the engine bay a little.
No Noble has this as std.
Cheers , sounds like complicated stuff .... so does it get very hot inside the cabin and hot where your feet are ... is the air con good enough to cool things down ?
Bondy
slidein said:
so does it get very hot inside the cabin and hot where your feet are ... is the air con good enough to cool things down ?
Yes, yes and no!!Unfortunately you will find as I do that opening the windows on a hot day makes things worse. You need to have the windows shut and the AC on 2 or 3 to maintain a decent temperature. I turn it off to enjoy the extra power and suffer most of the time but I imagine if I had leather, I'd be swimming by the end of most journeys.
JulesBliss said:
Doing this myself next week
Just to confirm what is needed!
4mm cobalt drill bit
Self Drilling Screw Stainless Steel- 4.8 x 16mm and some 13mm
M6 Neoprene Washers-- any idea how many?
Neoprene tape. How thick should it be?
Is that all i need?
Julian
Exercise your hands and fingers ready as its a pain to remove the left over silicone Just to confirm what is needed!
4mm cobalt drill bit
Self Drilling Screw Stainless Steel- 4.8 x 16mm and some 13mm
M6 Neoprene Washers-- any idea how many?
Neoprene tape. How thick should it be?
Is that all i need?
Julian
Bondy
I personally would not use the neoprene strip, you need the sealant to also create a seal at the screw or rivet locations, or water will ingress and eat away at your chassis, i personally think the neoprene strip only stops water from getting into the cockpit but it will be at the expense of your chassis. When you use a sealant, it squeezes through the holes when your offer the floor pan back up, i leave it coming through the hole and offer the rivet into the sealant, it creates a nice seal, just leave it to dry for an hour and you can peal off the excess at the rivet locations with ease.
I have been replacing my floor and found a couple of places that water has been leaking into my car.
The first is where the steering wheel shaft comes through the bulkhead. There is a rubber boot that is supposed to be sealed to the bulkhead, mine had come away slightly, certainly enough to let water in.
The second place on mine was the rear bulkhead on the passenger side. It looks like water runs across the top of the fuel tank and then down the rear bulkhead. You can see the corrosion in the picture below.
One word of warning though, the rear bulkhead panel is one piece that goes all the way down the sill to the footwell!
The first is where the steering wheel shaft comes through the bulkhead. There is a rubber boot that is supposed to be sealed to the bulkhead, mine had come away slightly, certainly enough to let water in.
The second place on mine was the rear bulkhead on the passenger side. It looks like water runs across the top of the fuel tank and then down the rear bulkhead. You can see the corrosion in the picture below.
One word of warning though, the rear bulkhead panel is one piece that goes all the way down the sill to the footwell!
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