POR15 or powder coating for Chassis protection
Discussion
Hi Everyone,
The fury rebuild has been somewhat stalled as we were struggling to find someone to build a new roll bar hoop. We now have the car booked in for the 25th, so the rest of the work can now begin.
We have stripped the entire chassis and once the roll bar is built we will be blasting the chassis and then need to decide on the right kind of treatment for the chassis to prevent any future rot. Initially I was planning to have the chassis powder coated, however a friend who is working on the rebuild suggested trying POR15 instead.
Have any of you chosen to use POR15 for the chassis coating and do you have any recommendations based on your knowledge and experience?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers
Mick
The fury rebuild has been somewhat stalled as we were struggling to find someone to build a new roll bar hoop. We now have the car booked in for the 25th, so the rest of the work can now begin.
We have stripped the entire chassis and once the roll bar is built we will be blasting the chassis and then need to decide on the right kind of treatment for the chassis to prevent any future rot. Initially I was planning to have the chassis powder coated, however a friend who is working on the rebuild suggested trying POR15 instead.
Have any of you chosen to use POR15 for the chassis coating and do you have any recommendations based on your knowledge and experience?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers
Mick
The biggest issue is getting the chassis coated as soon as possible after blasting. Rust starts the instant air gets to the bare metal.
A powder coating company will be set up to move the item directly from blasting into coating so job done. If you were to paint yourself you would need to get the blaster to prime the chassis before returning it to you.
How much of the chassis is visible on the finished car? Powder will be very pretty...hand brushed POR15 much less so.
As a product for the job is should be fine. Not used it myself but it gets rave reviews from those who have.
Steve
A powder coating company will be set up to move the item directly from blasting into coating so job done. If you were to paint yourself you would need to get the blaster to prime the chassis before returning it to you.
How much of the chassis is visible on the finished car? Powder will be very pretty...hand brushed POR15 much less so.
As a product for the job is should be fine. Not used it myself but it gets rave reviews from those who have.
Steve
Edited by Steve_D on Sunday 17th July 09:26
Powder coating will certainly look better but is variable in durability depending on how well it is done.
It does not always bond correctly to the steel so that, once cracked or chipped, (sometimes just by bolting on bodywork or components) it will flake off or allow rust to penetrate.
POR15 bonds well to steel, even if rusted, and can be sprayed if you wish but if you read the data sheets you will notice that it is not meant to be the final outer coating as it is not stable to UV light. The protection is not affected at all but the cosmetic appearance deteriorates after a while. If the painted area is not visible then this is not a problem but if it needs to look good too then you need to overcoat the POR15 with one of the topcoats manufactured by the same company. Blackcote or Chassiscoat Black are the usual choices.
It does not always bond correctly to the steel so that, once cracked or chipped, (sometimes just by bolting on bodywork or components) it will flake off or allow rust to penetrate.
POR15 bonds well to steel, even if rusted, and can be sprayed if you wish but if you read the data sheets you will notice that it is not meant to be the final outer coating as it is not stable to UV light. The protection is not affected at all but the cosmetic appearance deteriorates after a while. If the painted area is not visible then this is not a problem but if it needs to look good too then you need to overcoat the POR15 with one of the topcoats manufactured by the same company. Blackcote or Chassiscoat Black are the usual choices.
Sorry to bump this thread chaps, but I've a question that I thought I'd tag on as opposed to start a new thread.
I'm thinking of doing a bit of chassis painting/ protection on the Caterham.
POR15 seems to be the stuff, but just wanting to make sure that I get it right.
Not sure which selection to go for;
6 pots of POR15 in black.
3 pots of POR15 black protecting paint like the above but also another 3 pots of Chassis Coat Black.
Reading around the POR15 website, it dictated that you shouldn't apply the paint over existing paint. My chassis and other underneath car bits (De Dion, A frames, Etc...) will have the original powder coat in various states of repair.
I was hoping to wire brush/ clean off the loose bits on these and paint the POR15 over the top. Is this the wrong approach?
I might also chuck a pot or so on my Defender which has some rusty areas.
Advice...?
I'm thinking of doing a bit of chassis painting/ protection on the Caterham.
POR15 seems to be the stuff, but just wanting to make sure that I get it right.
Not sure which selection to go for;
6 pots of POR15 in black.
3 pots of POR15 black protecting paint like the above but also another 3 pots of Chassis Coat Black.
Reading around the POR15 website, it dictated that you shouldn't apply the paint over existing paint. My chassis and other underneath car bits (De Dion, A frames, Etc...) will have the original powder coat in various states of repair.
I was hoping to wire brush/ clean off the loose bits on these and paint the POR15 over the top. Is this the wrong approach?
I might also chuck a pot or so on my Defender which has some rusty areas.
Advice...?
pugwash4x4 said:
had mixed experience with PO15
on rusted and slightly pitted metal it sticks and never comes off.
on clean smooth metal, even when properly treated with a phophate base i had massive problems with it just peeling off in sheets.
Many people are unaware that some rust removers and preparations based on phosphoric acid tend to leave an electrically insulating film on ferrous metalson rusted and slightly pitted metal it sticks and never comes off.
on clean smooth metal, even when properly treated with a phophate base i had massive problems with it just peeling off in sheets.
and should not be used. Blasting and coating within the hour is probably the best way.
Furyblade_Lee said:
If anyone has a photo of a POR15'd chassis that does not look like it has been done in the dark by a drunk with a rock hard paintbrush i'd be interested to see it and know how it was done. I need to do my rear chassis but have never seen a remotely good job carried out with POR15!
Happy to oblige:
I used foam varnishing brushes for the POR15.
gtmdriver said:
If it's not in plain sight I would always go for POR15 over Powder Coating. It is a harder coating, is less prone to chipping and does not allow rust to creep underneath quite so readily.
GTMdrvier, was it you who was planning to use a high build epoxy on your fugitive chassis? If so, did you and how is it holding up?Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff