Bike engined locost
Discussion
Having driven both, definately forward for 1st.... feels natural under hard braking to bang the stick forwards a couple of times to shift down. The other way felt strange.
Funny moment when a mate drove my car around Brands, both had Fury Fireblades and raced his, but his gearbox worked in the opposite direction to mine. He shifted into 4th along the main straight at 10,000 rpm, except he selected 2nd.....
Funny moment when a mate drove my car around Brands, both had Fury Fireblades and raced his, but his gearbox worked in the opposite direction to mine. He shifted into 4th along the main straight at 10,000 rpm, except he selected 2nd.....
Furyblade_Lee said:
Having driven both, definately forward for 1st.... feels natural under hard braking to bang the stick forwards a couple of times to shift down. The other way felt strange.
Funny moment when a mate drove my car around Brands, both had Fury Fireblades and raced his, but his gearbox worked in the opposite direction to mine. He shifted into 4th along the main straight at 10,000 rpm, except he selected 2nd.....
OOOPs.....Funny moment when a mate drove my car around Brands, both had Fury Fireblades and raced his, but his gearbox worked in the opposite direction to mine. He shifted into 4th along the main straight at 10,000 rpm, except he selected 2nd.....
Yes but it didnt even break...... Huge bang, seemed to somehow jump into neutral, we coasted along the main straight with my friend apologising through the intercom saying I could have one of his spare engines, we assumed we'd killed it. But then it popped into 2nd and away we went!! Did another 5,000 miles in my ownership!!
It'll only 'not last very long' if you are careless.
The R1 in my fury is in its 10th year, original clutch, 24K miles - and spent its first 6years only doing sprints and hillclimbs. Still sweet as a nut.
I have a cable operated paddles shift comparble to Rob's. My advice, set it up the way you really want and finesse it from day 1 so you enjoy it properly. Things only get better from there - never any point installing something in the expectation you'll hate/kill it/fit better later. That's lazy - and ultimately, more expensive!
The R1 in my fury is in its 10th year, original clutch, 24K miles - and spent its first 6years only doing sprints and hillclimbs. Still sweet as a nut.
I have a cable operated paddles shift comparble to Rob's. My advice, set it up the way you really want and finesse it from day 1 so you enjoy it properly. Things only get better from there - never any point installing something in the expectation you'll hate/kill it/fit better later. That's lazy - and ultimately, more expensive!
Its my first bike engine install and I am using a 1988 CBR1000F engine. I dont know if I would prefer stick or paddle and seen as stick will be home made and free its an easy way to go. I have read and heard about needing special sumps and clutch spring kits and seen as most fitters are using fireblade then thats what most after market parts are made for thats why I dont expect it to last. It was a cheap purchase therefore if it dies I wont be disapointed and would most likely fit the later 1000RR engine.
I'd be careful. I started with a home made rod shift mechanism and this was a big part in me having to have some of the gears replaced. It never quite shifted gear as cleanly as it should have. The change to a floating cable mount onto a paddle shift was a huge improvement in both feel and smoothness.
I've done 8 years of very hard driving with my 2003 R1 engine now and still pulls as well as ever.
Rob
I've done 8 years of very hard driving with my 2003 R1 engine now and still pulls as well as ever.
Rob
I built an R1 BEC about 5 years ago and have hardly used it because of the gear change. At the moment it is push pull cable operated and I have changed it numerous times and although each time it is slightly better it can still be a nightmare sometimes getting neutrel or gears in general, so makes it a real pain in traffic all the time I am worried I will not be able to change gear (clutch is ok and adjusted). Does a paddle shift make that much difference? as presume you also lose the indicator/light stalks.Is A. Bates the best place to get the kit from?
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