Bike engined locost

Bike engined locost

Author
Discussion

cerberatony

Original Poster:

417 posts

184 months

Saturday 22nd November 2014
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fitting a bike engine in a locost and wondered which way around the gear selector is as in. Is it forward for first and then back for second third forth fifth and six or is it back for 1st

Turn7

23,597 posts

221 months

Saturday 22nd November 2014
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Can be whatever you want it to be.

My Fury I set it as back for up and forward for down, as it just seemed natural to me.

MagicalTrevor

6,476 posts

229 months

Sunday 23rd November 2014
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My BEC racing car is setup as forward for first and then back to shift up

Furyblade_Lee

4,107 posts

224 months

Sunday 23rd November 2014
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Having driven both, definately forward for 1st.... feels natural under hard braking to bang the stick forwards a couple of times to shift down. The other way felt strange.

Funny moment when a mate drove my car around Brands, both had Fury Fireblades and raced his, but his gearbox worked in the opposite direction to mine. He shifted into 4th along the main straight at 10,000 rpm, except he selected 2nd.....

pikeyboy

2,349 posts

214 months

Monday 24th November 2014
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Furyblade_Lee said:
Having driven both, definately forward for 1st.... feels natural under hard braking to bang the stick forwards a couple of times to shift down. The other way felt strange.

Funny moment when a mate drove my car around Brands, both had Fury Fireblades and raced his, but his gearbox worked in the opposite direction to mine. He shifted into 4th along the main straight at 10,000 rpm, except he selected 2nd.....
OOOPs.....

Furyblade_Lee

4,107 posts

224 months

Monday 24th November 2014
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Yes but it didnt even break...... Huge bang, seemed to somehow jump into neutral, we coasted along the main straight with my friend apologising through the intercom saying I could have one of his spare engines, we assumed we'd killed it. But then it popped into 2nd and away we went!! Did another 5,000 miles in my ownership!!

robcollingridge

609 posts

283 months

Tuesday 25th November 2014
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Paddle shift is the way to go, making it a left or right decision :-)

I pull left once to select first, the up through 5 gears pulling on the right paddle. Best way to change gear in a car like this.


cerberatony

Original Poster:

417 posts

184 months

Tuesday 25th November 2014
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Paddle shift is very nice but at a cost, initially I am making my own linkages and lever as I imagine the engine wont last too long, then when I keep updating I could change up.

Huff

3,147 posts

191 months

Tuesday 25th November 2014
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It'll only 'not last very long' if you are careless.

The R1 in my fury is in its 10th year, original clutch, 24K miles - and spent its first 6years only doing sprints and hillclimbs. Still sweet as a nut.

I have a cable operated paddles shift comparble to Rob's. My advice, set it up the way you really want and finesse it from day 1 so you enjoy it properly. Things only get better from there - never any point installing something in the expectation you'll hate/kill it/fit better later. That's lazy - and ultimately, more expensive!

cerberatony

Original Poster:

417 posts

184 months

Wednesday 26th November 2014
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Its my first bike engine install and I am using a 1988 CBR1000F engine. I dont know if I would prefer stick or paddle and seen as stick will be home made and free its an easy way to go. I have read and heard about needing special sumps and clutch spring kits and seen as most fitters are using fireblade then thats what most after market parts are made for thats why I dont expect it to last. It was a cheap purchase therefore if it dies I wont be disapointed and would most likely fit the later 1000RR engine.

robcollingridge

609 posts

283 months

Sunday 30th November 2014
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I'd be careful. I started with a home made rod shift mechanism and this was a big part in me having to have some of the gears replaced. It never quite shifted gear as cleanly as it should have. The change to a floating cable mount onto a paddle shift was a huge improvement in both feel and smoothness.

I've done 8 years of very hard driving with my 2003 R1 engine now and still pulls as well as ever.

Rob

howardsheno

6 posts

162 months

Monday 1st December 2014
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I built an R1 BEC about 5 years ago and have hardly used it because of the gear change. At the moment it is push pull cable operated and I have changed it numerous times and although each time it is slightly better it can still be a nightmare sometimes getting neutrel or gears in general, so makes it a real pain in traffic all the time I am worried I will not be able to change gear (clutch is ok and adjusted). Does a paddle shift make that much difference? as presume you also lose the indicator/light stalks.Is A. Bates the best place to get the kit from?