Discussion
Not much progress yet but my spare bedroom is full of bits now 
I did collect a full B18C6 Short motor yesterday and stripped it down. Thankfully the bores and crank look very nice. It will be getting the bores honed/deglazed, new rings, ACL race bearings and ARP rod bolts. The B16A2 head with type R cams, dual springs and wasted valves, maybe a bit of a port clean up then back together with all new seals gaskets etc...
One thing I am wondering is if I should throw a lightweight flywheel on while I'm at it, but don't want to ruin the driveability..... and either fit an LSD or get a new LSD box.. but ££££
Also, it's known that these motors are best with a 2.5inch exhaust system, can get manifolds easy enough, am half tempted to fit a exige exhaust, as they are 2.5 inch and not daft money. But that would make it a centre exit rather than to the side. But it's good to be different..
I did collect a full B18C6 Short motor yesterday and stripped it down. Thankfully the bores and crank look very nice. It will be getting the bores honed/deglazed, new rings, ACL race bearings and ARP rod bolts. The B16A2 head with type R cams, dual springs and wasted valves, maybe a bit of a port clean up then back together with all new seals gaskets etc...
One thing I am wondering is if I should throw a lightweight flywheel on while I'm at it, but don't want to ruin the driveability..... and either fit an LSD or get a new LSD box.. but ££££
Also, it's known that these motors are best with a 2.5inch exhaust system, can get manifolds easy enough, am half tempted to fit a exige exhaust, as they are 2.5 inch and not daft money. But that would make it a centre exit rather than to the side. But it's good to be different..
Great project, small enough to not be daunting but big enough to make the car yours. I'm looking for something like this.
I'm surprised you can still get the shocks, arent the rears really long?
The advice on POR15 is spot on, I've used it for 20 years and have never looked back. On the chassis I never bothered with anti UV coat and it still looks like new 6 years later on the defender.
I'm surprised you can still get the shocks, arent the rears really long?
The advice on POR15 is spot on, I've used it for 20 years and have never looked back. On the chassis I never bothered with anti UV coat and it still looks like new 6 years later on the defender.
Protech and Gaz still make them
The Protech ones have been revised to beef them up too, the rears they sell now are totally different to the ones on my old Libra. Haha as projects go this is definitely the easiest I've had. More graft than anything.
Good to hear about the POR15 as I've got some on it's way.
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
The Protech ones have been revised to beef them up too, the rears they sell now are totally different to the ones on my old Libra. Haha as projects go this is definitely the easiest I've had. More graft than anything.
Good to hear about the POR15 as I've got some on it's way.
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:21
Oh I've also sourced an LSD box with the desirable 4.7 final drive, has a bit of crunch in 3rd gear but apparently the bits from my good box are interchangeable so between them I should be able to build a good LSD box for little outlay. Also have a Fidanza Aluminium flywheel on the way.
..And I won this on ebay brand new removed from a exige in 2007 in favour of a sports exhaust... £36
if I can make it fit great, if not, doesn't really matter. Should be able to get it to work and it's 2.5 inch which is perfect for this motor.
..And I won this on ebay brand new removed from a exige in 2007 in favour of a sports exhaust... £36
if I can make it fit great, if not, doesn't really matter. Should be able to get it to work and it's 2.5 inch which is perfect for this motor. 
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:30
Edited by Yazza54 on Thursday 3rd March 09:19
Yazza54 said:
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
Thanks for the kind offer, but I'm really fussyEdited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:21
and am looking for something with a little more punch. Perhaps GT40 rep? At the rate I change my mind I'll probably never move on! But there is a nice Honda Elise on here that has caught my attention.........Sounds as though you will have a great car when done and it'll go like a Honda Elise for half the cash.
Smokin Donut said:
Yazza54 said:
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
Thanks for the kind offer, but I'm really fussyEdited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:21
and am looking for something with a little more punch. Perhaps GT40 rep? At the rate I change my mind I'll probably never move on! But there is a nice Honda Elise on here that has caught my attention.........Sounds as though you will have a great car when done and it'll go like a Honda Elise for half the cash.
I could happily tour Europe in this but I wouldn't want to do it in that Elise. I think the later ones are supposed to be a bit better in terms of refinement though. Yazza54 said:
Not sure if it'll be as quick as a K20'd Elise but it'll be quick nonetheless. Having been in one though (S1 K20 converted) I don't think I could live with it, found it uncomfortable and far too noisy inside. I guess the word to describe it is raw, very raw, if anything my last Libra felt somewhat more refined than the K20 elise I had a ride in, no doubt less capable performance wise but more capable as a useable car. Horses for courses I could happily tour Europe in this but I wouldn't want to do it in that Elise. I think the later ones are supposed to be a bit better in terms of refinement though.
Thanks for the heads up, I've only driven a standard Elise so need a decent test drive before making a decision. I'm lucky enough to have the use of a good cruising fast car so not too worried about it being a little raw, but it cannot be painful. I've never driven a Libra but they are a much more interesting option to an Elise. Good luck with the renovation, I'll be following with interest. I could happily tour Europe in this but I wouldn't want to do it in that Elise. I think the later ones are supposed to be a bit better in terms of refinement though. Fitted Passat rad yesterday and sorted some wiring out. Should have pretty much all the bits I need now, protech shocks due in the week. Just met a lad off the EK9 forum to collect a S80 LSD Box, the desireable 4.7FD version too. Synchros have gone in 3rd, apparently the S4C bits are interchangeable and I've been told while I'm in there if I swap the 4th and 5th from the S4C into it too it'll make the ratios closer again. Might knock a little top speed off but it's supposed to be a very good mod and as I've got two gearboxes I can do it for nothing.
I mentioned I'd never actually been in a VTEC type R car of any variant so he took me up the dual carriageway in his DC2, was a lot faster than I expected and so impressive the way it revved. Got me a bit excited
I mentioned I'd never actually been in a VTEC type R car of any variant so he took me up the dual carriageway in his DC2, was a lot faster than I expected and so impressive the way it revved. Got me a bit excited
Edited by Yazza54 on Saturday 5th March 10:28
Had a productive day yesterday, mate came round to give me a hand and we managed to get the motor and engine cradle off the tub and were about half way through getting the wishbone mounts off. Slow progress on that front and not something I ever want to have to do again. Bought plenty of POR15 base coat and chassis black top coat, should do the job. I may waxoyl over the mounts too when fitted for belt and braces. Won't look pretty but that's not the point.. Can't believe how bad the rear wishbone mounts were, they literally fell apart when removing the lower wishbones.
Spent a few hours last night removing the front wishbone and shock mounts, a few more hours tonight and they should all be off ready for blasting and painting over the weekend. It's a head down by the pedals legs hanging out the door job, small holes in the monocoque for access, feel like I've done some rounds with Mike Tyson.
Got some bits done over the weekend, uprights painted and rebuilt, new balljoints. Driveshafts cleaned up and painted and all the wishbones, cradle etc blasted and POR15'd. If it sticks to them as well as it's sticking to my skin I think we're in business. 
Had a mare with the shotblaster so was a bit behind schedule from where I planned to be, going to have to give some bits another coat tonight, but it won't be long still the wishbones and new shocks are on. Would be nice to get it back on it's wheels this week but will be much easier to get the motor and driveshafts in first before fitting the rear uprights so that can wait, should get the rest fitted though. Not making bad progress
I have had a think and I'm not going to use the Exige exhaust, going to get a normal 2.5in silencer and keep the exit where it's supposed to be, means no messing with the clam and to be honest I was shocked at the weight of the exige system.
Have offered the B16a2 bottom end on locostbuilders and EK9 Honda forum for free but no takers, shame but it might be going to the tip as it's just in the way...
Had a mare with the shotblaster so was a bit behind schedule from where I planned to be, going to have to give some bits another coat tonight, but it won't be long still the wishbones and new shocks are on. Would be nice to get it back on it's wheels this week but will be much easier to get the motor and driveshafts in first before fitting the rear uprights so that can wait, should get the rest fitted though. Not making bad progress
I have had a think and I'm not going to use the Exige exhaust, going to get a normal 2.5in silencer and keep the exit where it's supposed to be, means no messing with the clam and to be honest I was shocked at the weight of the exige system.
Have offered the B16a2 bottom end on locostbuilders and EK9 Honda forum for free but no takers, shame but it might be going to the tip as it's just in the way...
Just to say; I never, ever, wanted to re-do my wishbone mountings!
I taped a carrier bag around my arm to prevent GRP rash. Worked well.
Where the (8mm?) bolts go through the tub, and have spreader plates on the inside, make sure that the bolt heads are on the outside to protect the thread from the elements. AND (important) when you tighten the nut onto the bolt do NOT be tempted to rotate the bolt into the nut, hold the bolt and tighten the little sod from inside the tub.
This is because if the builder has not drilled the holes perpendicular to the tub, or if the tub inside and out side are not parallel then when tight, the bolt will bend as the nut forces the spreader plate onto the inside face of the tub. The bolt bending is OK, providing the nut just pulls it in one direction. If you tighten the bolt onto the nut which is not geometrically normal to the axis of the bolt, then the bolt will be rotationally bent which could lead to early failure. In extreme cases the bolt will snap as it is being tightened, but that's a good case as the failure is obvious.
I taped a carrier bag around my arm to prevent GRP rash. Worked well.
Where the (8mm?) bolts go through the tub, and have spreader plates on the inside, make sure that the bolt heads are on the outside to protect the thread from the elements. AND (important) when you tighten the nut onto the bolt do NOT be tempted to rotate the bolt into the nut, hold the bolt and tighten the little sod from inside the tub.
This is because if the builder has not drilled the holes perpendicular to the tub, or if the tub inside and out side are not parallel then when tight, the bolt will bend as the nut forces the spreader plate onto the inside face of the tub. The bolt bending is OK, providing the nut just pulls it in one direction. If you tighten the bolt onto the nut which is not geometrically normal to the axis of the bolt, then the bolt will be rotationally bent which could lead to early failure. In extreme cases the bolt will snap as it is being tightened, but that's a good case as the failure is obvious.
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