Discussion
How's this for weird, I'm pretty sure my new slave cylinder was assembled wrong at the factory, at one end of the piston is a cup and the other a nipple/pin
I would have thought that the rod would sit in the cup but in this is looks like it's been the other way round, worn a groove in the nipple and eventually gone bang - wtf
I would have thought that the rod would sit in the cup but in this is looks like it's been the other way round, worn a groove in the nipple and eventually gone bang - wtf
He's agreed to refund me and I've ordered another through jap service parts which have always been good
This might be why the gear change felt awful too as with it removed the gear change feels quite good again apart from the fact it doesn't centre well, still has the springs missing need to get it on the ramp and do that this weekend
This might be why the gear change felt awful too as with it removed the gear change feels quite good again apart from the fact it doesn't centre well, still has the springs missing need to get it on the ramp and do that this weekend
I got my new slave cylinder in the post, fitted and bled and it's so much nicer - unsurprisingly!!
Also got the poly inserts for the gearbox mount, which is the opposite side to the engine steady currently fitted, they are very stiff mouldings that press into the gaps in the OEM rubber mount
So out came the jack and removed all nuts and bolts and lowered that side to get the mount out, pressed them in and re fitted, quite a tight fit. Hopefully this will reduce some movement, but I'm still looking at the best way to add another steady bar.
Also got the poly inserts for the gearbox mount, which is the opposite side to the engine steady currently fitted, they are very stiff mouldings that press into the gaps in the OEM rubber mount
So out came the jack and removed all nuts and bolts and lowered that side to get the mount out, pressed them in and re fitted, quite a tight fit. Hopefully this will reduce some movement, but I'm still looking at the best way to add another steady bar.
Hi Paul
I have been reading some of the old Team GTM posts on this very subject, I am quite tempted to try the Toyota Starlet gearchange like Bertrams as it looks very compact and I think I could easily retrofit it without disturbing too much in the tunnel, it should be cheap too. Otherwise it's the elise or Satur route but the prices are making my eyes water...! The height of yours looks much better. I find it quite awkward as I have the seat as far back as it can go to get in the car, so it feels a little too low and too far away. I have replaced some bushes that were heavily worn, Roger had a spare he kindly gave me, and heavier springs in the MGF change but it's still not very good.
Cheers
I have been reading some of the old Team GTM posts on this very subject, I am quite tempted to try the Toyota Starlet gearchange like Bertrams as it looks very compact and I think I could easily retrofit it without disturbing too much in the tunnel, it should be cheap too. Otherwise it's the elise or Satur route but the prices are making my eyes water...! The height of yours looks much better. I find it quite awkward as I have the seat as far back as it can go to get in the car, so it feels a little too low and too far away. I have replaced some bushes that were heavily worn, Roger had a spare he kindly gave me, and heavier springs in the MGF change but it's still not very good.
Cheers
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 1st June 11:05
Been doing some more bits, have figured out a way forward on the gear change mechanism. Going to use a focus ST170 set up as the mechanism is very compact and detaches from the main gearchange frame. That can be bolted to the tunnel on a bracket and then I can adjust the cables as necessary and re fit. So the linkage will drop through the hole into the tunnel, similar to how Bertram made use of the starlet set up. I am planning on completely gutting the MGF gearchange innards but leaving the outer frame attached in the tunnel as it holds the cables and they should be near enough in the right place already.
My clutch seems to be travelling too far, it's odd. 3/4 travel is perfect and I can select all gears, clutch fully depressed and it actually struggles to get gears and if in gear will begin to creep, so the clutch is dragging. Problem is that there is no adjustment on the slave or master so I could either put a stop on the pedal or cut down the slave push rod slightly. No doubt that with that and the gearchange mods it should be a considerable improvement.
Still need to make an additional engine steady but the mount inserts definitely helped.
Car needs some tweaking handling wise, feels a little vague and light at the front.
Also it's struggling to get properly warm. I seem to get to 60-65 degrees and stabilise. I will admit that I put 1 small hole in the thermostat as I was struggling to bleed the system, can't imagine that one little hole causing it to run 10-15 degrees cooler than it should though...!?
Went out in it after work and got this little sound clip. It's bloody quick I will say that. I can't wait until I've got all these little bits sorted.
https://youtu.be/kSMUkrzgOeM
My clutch seems to be travelling too far, it's odd. 3/4 travel is perfect and I can select all gears, clutch fully depressed and it actually struggles to get gears and if in gear will begin to creep, so the clutch is dragging. Problem is that there is no adjustment on the slave or master so I could either put a stop on the pedal or cut down the slave push rod slightly. No doubt that with that and the gearchange mods it should be a considerable improvement.
Still need to make an additional engine steady but the mount inserts definitely helped.
Car needs some tweaking handling wise, feels a little vague and light at the front.
Also it's struggling to get properly warm. I seem to get to 60-65 degrees and stabilise. I will admit that I put 1 small hole in the thermostat as I was struggling to bleed the system, can't imagine that one little hole causing it to run 10-15 degrees cooler than it should though...!?
Went out in it after work and got this little sound clip. It's bloody quick I will say that. I can't wait until I've got all these little bits sorted.
https://youtu.be/kSMUkrzgOeM
You are of course correct I was thinking about it last night and shortening the rod wouldn't be a good idea. I'm sure I can make some sort of stop for the pedal.
I have another standard thermostat, might as well throw that in and see what it does. I haven't done that but I believe it to be fairly accurate as the fan comes on at the correct temp etc. But that's only ever happened once when I was bleeding it and it had been running on my drive for a long time.
Yeah he's been at it some time but it is coming together
https://youtu.be/btpLtrcrms8
I have another standard thermostat, might as well throw that in and see what it does. I haven't done that but I believe it to be fairly accurate as the fan comes on at the correct temp etc. But that's only ever happened once when I was bleeding it and it had been running on my drive for a long time.
Yeah he's been at it some time but it is coming together
https://youtu.be/btpLtrcrms8
Edited by Yazza54 on Friday 3rd June 06:21
Made throttle and clutch stops at the weekend. Getting gears is much easier.
Shed load of red T cut and a buffer, old girl polished up better than expected
Not happy with my spring rates I think it's far too soft at the back making the front feel light.
Hopefully I'll get another engine steady and the new gearchange done this weekend.
Shed load of red T cut and a buffer, old girl polished up better than expected
Not happy with my spring rates I think it's far too soft at the back making the front feel light.
Hopefully I'll get another engine steady and the new gearchange done this weekend.
Paul Drawmer said:
Can't remember what springs I had on mine, but I do know that some Libras had springs that were far too hard.
Unless Roger can tell you that yours are all wrong, I'd leave them alone and concentrate on stuff in this order.
1. Ride height. The front needs to be 15mm lower than the back Measured from the bottom of the tub cill.
2. With the original rear suspension, the rear ride height must be at the factory recommendation, else the rear arms will do funny things to the handling.
3. Rear camber must be -3deg
4. Rear toe in must be whatever the factory said (can you tell I can't remember the figures?)
5. Front must not be //L. Use either toe in for benign, or toe out for darty.
I reversed the steering arms on mine, made the feel better, increased the lock, BUT it did introduce a slight bump steer, which was noticeable, but OK on the road, better on smooth track.
There was also a fashion for getting bigger and bigger a/r bars. I had none, but would have put on a small front if I'd kept it.
Overall the front was very planted, it was noticeable when running with a Libra with front and rear a/r bars, that my direction change in the chicanes was a bit slower, but I could get the power on way earlier on the corner exit.
Did reversing the steering arms make it turn quicker? Unless Roger can tell you that yours are all wrong, I'd leave them alone and concentrate on stuff in this order.
1. Ride height. The front needs to be 15mm lower than the back Measured from the bottom of the tub cill.
2. With the original rear suspension, the rear ride height must be at the factory recommendation, else the rear arms will do funny things to the handling.
3. Rear camber must be -3deg
4. Rear toe in must be whatever the factory said (can you tell I can't remember the figures?)
5. Front must not be //L. Use either toe in for benign, or toe out for darty.
I reversed the steering arms on mine, made the feel better, increased the lock, BUT it did introduce a slight bump steer, which was noticeable, but OK on the road, better on smooth track.
There was also a fashion for getting bigger and bigger a/r bars. I had none, but would have put on a small front if I'd kept it.
Overall the front was very planted, it was noticeable when running with a Libra with front and rear a/r bars, that my direction change in the chicanes was a bit slower, but I could get the power on way earlier on the corner exit.
I do have the ride height set around 15mm higher at the back, but I think the rear is sagging more with a driver / passenger so my measurements unlaiden aren't consistent with the ride height on the road if that makes sense.
The focus gear change has arrived, it does work slightly differently to what I have in that the push/pull when moving the lever left or right is the opposite way round, I was pretty miffed I hadn't realised this at first but it just means modifying the bell crank, makes the job bigger but it's not drastic.
Another GTM owner has a Honda B series engine coupe on GTMOC and used the focus gear change, as you can see mine works in the opposite direction.
So for example if mine was to pull the cable that does the sideways movement on the gear lever it would turn the selector and bell crank anti clockwise, however on his coupe it would turn clock wise. In order to use the Focus gear change I need to modify it to work like his. Well, if I don't want a completely back to front gearchange....!
SUPER TECHNICAL DOODLES INCOMING
or
Think the second idea should be easiest as its more a case of cutting the bracket and bell crank and re welding in different positions
Another GTM owner has a Honda B series engine coupe on GTMOC and used the focus gear change, as you can see mine works in the opposite direction.
So for example if mine was to pull the cable that does the sideways movement on the gear lever it would turn the selector and bell crank anti clockwise, however on his coupe it would turn clock wise. In order to use the Focus gear change I need to modify it to work like his. Well, if I don't want a completely back to front gearchange....!
SUPER TECHNICAL DOODLES INCOMING
or
Think the second idea should be easiest as its more a case of cutting the bracket and bell crank and re welding in different positions
Edited by Yazza54 on Tuesday 7th June 10:05
True, I'm really looking forward to getting the gearchange done. It's this time when little upgrades made the world of difference in refinement.
Unfortunately the next instalment of the gearchange work will have to be next weekend, I left work early to head to dads work on Friday to use the ramp, welder etc. As it'll be too much of a pain to do at home. 5 mins in the heavens opened and roads were becoming severely flooded. Had to spin it round and come home, screen misted up good and proper couldn't see a thing so had window open and raining into the bloody car. Nightmare. Hes been away all weekend so I'm just going to wait another week, can't swing a cat in my garage at home.
Here's the shifter ready to go on, it's a fair bit longer and angled back so should end up in a much better position, the existing one is a bit of a stretch. I can always cut and re thread if it ends up too long.
Unfortunately the next instalment of the gearchange work will have to be next weekend, I left work early to head to dads work on Friday to use the ramp, welder etc. As it'll be too much of a pain to do at home. 5 mins in the heavens opened and roads were becoming severely flooded. Had to spin it round and come home, screen misted up good and proper couldn't see a thing so had window open and raining into the bloody car. Nightmare. Hes been away all weekend so I'm just going to wait another week, can't swing a cat in my garage at home.
Here's the shifter ready to go on, it's a fair bit longer and angled back so should end up in a much better position, the existing one is a bit of a stretch. I can always cut and re thread if it ends up too long.
Sorry it's taken me so long, so because of the arm on the side of the gear change it has so be slightly offset in the hole, therefore the bracket I proactively made before starting ended up being cut down a fair bit. It was also a bit of a pain getting the positioning just right so that the lever didn't foul the side of the tunnel bracket when moving it left and right - although I found that when actually connected up to the cables the actual travel required to select gears was nowhere near as much as the lever was capable of. It has a very short and precise throw. The only other ball ache was that I had to lengthen the arm on the gate selector a bit as it was putting the cables at too much of an angle.
I also bent the lever back slightly to put it in a better position. I made another mounting plate last weekend with a few additional rivnut as I could feel the old one flexing slightly due to not having as many fixings as I originally intended. It isn't necessarily the neatest job in the world but it was difficult dealing with various existing holes in the tunnel I had to either try and miss or cover up. But it works well and it will be covered anyway. All in all a very worthwhile mod but slightly more involved that I hoped. Would be much easier and neater to do on a new build but arguably less complicated than fitting an Elise setup and certainly cheaper.
Cost approx
Rose joints, sundry items - £20
St170 gear change - £20
Gear knob - £10
Just need to get a new carpet section or something to finish it off.
I also bent the lever back slightly to put it in a better position. I made another mounting plate last weekend with a few additional rivnut as I could feel the old one flexing slightly due to not having as many fixings as I originally intended. It isn't necessarily the neatest job in the world but it was difficult dealing with various existing holes in the tunnel I had to either try and miss or cover up. But it works well and it will be covered anyway. All in all a very worthwhile mod but slightly more involved that I hoped. Would be much easier and neater to do on a new build but arguably less complicated than fitting an Elise setup and certainly cheaper.
Cost approx
Rose joints, sundry items - £20
St170 gear change - £20
Gear knob - £10
Just need to get a new carpet section or something to finish it off.
Next job I think will be changing the steering rack the standard rack is from a LHD rover 100, and is something ridiculous like 3.5 turns lock to lock, it's absolutely awful. It makes the steering too light and vague and is useless if you need to react quickly for instance if getting the back out of of line. Luckily you can fit a LHD MGTF rack which I think is about 2.7 turns to lock, it should not only speed the steering up but improve the feel.
I do really like the car so it's worth ironing out the issues, hopefully I'll end up with something much more enjoyable to drive.
I do really like the car so it's worth ironing out the issues, hopefully I'll end up with something much more enjoyable to drive.
Still doing bits on this car
Got some 2 part polyeurethane that I'm going to fill the cambelt side upper engine mount with, should steady the engine a bit more. Have already got poly inserts in the gearbox side mount and it definitely helped. I might even remove that one and effectively stick them in with this stuff so there's no movement in the inserts.
Also got a brand new steering rack on the way was a b
h to find as the car uses a LHD rover metro rack and get this ..... it's 3.6 turns to lock!! absolutely st. Add that to the fact it feels pretty worn there is no feel at all and the steering is SO SLOW
So my new rack is a MGTF 2.7 turns to lock and should give it a more weighted and precise feel. Bit of a crap job to change it but I can't wait to get it done as it ruins the car.
Last night made a heat shield for the manifold and fitting a carbon fibre NACA duct in the rear Perspex cover just above the air filter so aid cooling as it gets warm under there, not ideal for an open filter but it sounds too good to ditch
Got some 2 part polyeurethane that I'm going to fill the cambelt side upper engine mount with, should steady the engine a bit more. Have already got poly inserts in the gearbox side mount and it definitely helped. I might even remove that one and effectively stick them in with this stuff so there's no movement in the inserts.
Also got a brand new steering rack on the way was a b
h to find as the car uses a LHD rover metro rack and get this ..... it's 3.6 turns to lock!! absolutely st. Add that to the fact it feels pretty worn there is no feel at all and the steering is SO SLOWSo my new rack is a MGTF 2.7 turns to lock and should give it a more weighted and precise feel. Bit of a crap job to change it but I can't wait to get it done as it ruins the car.
Last night made a heat shield for the manifold and fitting a carbon fibre NACA duct in the rear Perspex cover just above the air filter so aid cooling as it gets warm under there, not ideal for an open filter but it sounds too good to ditch
Monday night I did the engine mount, removed and blanked one side. Mixed up some of this stuff
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/polyurethane-rubbers/pt-flex...
Poured in and let it cure. So the mount is now basically solid rubber with the steel bush in the middle. It is a lot stiffer so I'm expecting it to be much better - haven't driven it yet ...
Did a bit of cardboard aided design
Finished the TF rack installation last night too but haven't been out in it yet, feels good through the wheel though bit more weight to it and no play. Looking forward to driving it again gearchange is miles better, engine mounts stiffer, new steering rack - should make a big difference.
This pic of my old car just popped up on Facebook memories from 7 years or so ago. God I need to get this one painted as my old car looked the nuts.
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/polyurethane-rubbers/pt-flex...
Poured in and let it cure. So the mount is now basically solid rubber with the steel bush in the middle. It is a lot stiffer so I'm expecting it to be much better - haven't driven it yet ...
Did a bit of cardboard aided design
Finished the TF rack installation last night too but haven't been out in it yet, feels good through the wheel though bit more weight to it and no play. Looking forward to driving it again gearchange is miles better, engine mounts stiffer, new steering rack - should make a big difference.
This pic of my old car just popped up on Facebook memories from 7 years or so ago. God I need to get this one painted as my old car looked the nuts.
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