Twin turbo Jag V12 mid engined scratch built Zonda
Discussion
GIRF said:
I am going to assume that you posted this in hopes of getting feedback and assistance in the areas that you are not versed in as opposed to a bunch of "atta boy" and "cool project". So do not take this as a flame but a desire to help.
You really owe it to yourself to do this right. Have you given any thought to your suspension geometry. Have you calculated your roll center or instantaneous center. What is your king pin inclination and scrub radius. I understand that you modeled the A arms on your Ferrari. A bit dated but a good place to start. Still you used Scorpio hubs. What is the KPI on those as opposed to the Ferrari. Did you account for that in either arm length or mounting points. How does the Ferrari's track and cg compare to yours. How much caster and camber have you designed in. You can't just fall back on "I don't know, this is the first time I have done something like this." History is resplendent with trail blazers and mavericks such as you but generally when a person does not know how to do something they learn (study, research) or ask. I did not even ask about your steering geometry.
I don't suggest that you aspire to produce a race winner. But you risk a car that will suffer such camber changes throughout the suspensions travel that it will be undrivable.
Don't take this the wrong way. I would never come here and suggest your body work is bad (a thousand hours of work and a ton of bondo will fix that) or your lights are wrong or anything else that is subjective. You are doing what every car nut dreams of and you deserve huge props for having the fortitude to get started. But I really think you should plan and learn before welding and slathering.
This site www.dpcars.net might give you some insight into how much goes into a scratch built car. Dennis is famous on the web for his car. BTW his car buck/mold was machine on a half million dollar CNC and he still had hundreds of hours of work sanding and filling to do on the plug. Just go to the PAST section and review his 4 year Design and Build logs and learn moree about car design then you ever thought you needed. It starts with a sketch on a napkin.
As mentioned before there are some suspension modeling sw out there. Or you can make your own analog. Finally here are a few books you really should check out:
Allan Staniforth “Competition car suspension design, construction, tuning”
Carol Smith “Engineer to win”
Milliken & Milliken “Race car vehicle dynamics”
Herb Adams “Chassis Engineering” (He gives a step by step that is a great place to start)
I have thought of the geometry, and run the current setup through some software. Based on the assumed weight of the front the result was awful. The kingpin angle is dictated (as you know) by the Scorpio's design. However the camber/caster will need to be reworked.You really owe it to yourself to do this right. Have you given any thought to your suspension geometry. Have you calculated your roll center or instantaneous center. What is your king pin inclination and scrub radius. I understand that you modeled the A arms on your Ferrari. A bit dated but a good place to start. Still you used Scorpio hubs. What is the KPI on those as opposed to the Ferrari. Did you account for that in either arm length or mounting points. How does the Ferrari's track and cg compare to yours. How much caster and camber have you designed in. You can't just fall back on "I don't know, this is the first time I have done something like this." History is resplendent with trail blazers and mavericks such as you but generally when a person does not know how to do something they learn (study, research) or ask. I did not even ask about your steering geometry.
I don't suggest that you aspire to produce a race winner. But you risk a car that will suffer such camber changes throughout the suspensions travel that it will be undrivable.
Don't take this the wrong way. I would never come here and suggest your body work is bad (a thousand hours of work and a ton of bondo will fix that) or your lights are wrong or anything else that is subjective. You are doing what every car nut dreams of and you deserve huge props for having the fortitude to get started. But I really think you should plan and learn before welding and slathering.
This site www.dpcars.net might give you some insight into how much goes into a scratch built car. Dennis is famous on the web for his car. BTW his car buck/mold was machine on a half million dollar CNC and he still had hundreds of hours of work sanding and filling to do on the plug. Just go to the PAST section and review his 4 year Design and Build logs and learn moree about car design then you ever thought you needed. It starts with a sketch on a napkin.
As mentioned before there are some suspension modeling sw out there. Or you can make your own analog. Finally here are a few books you really should check out:
Allan Staniforth “Competition car suspension design, construction, tuning”
Carol Smith “Engineer to win”
Milliken & Milliken “Race car vehicle dynamics”
Herb Adams “Chassis Engineering” (He gives a step by step that is a great place to start)
The front suspension sucks! The top wishbone hangs off the chassis way too low and as a result when the car is jacked up the wheels toe in like crazy! So I have a LOAD of work to do there. By pure luck, the rear suspension worked out beautifully, but then this was one place that i could model (albeit roughly) on the available rear chassis photos of the C12.
I have not at this moment set the front geometry to anything specific and it all needs to be dismantled when I am in a position to move the car (when the body is more portable.
Rightly or wrongly I wanted to set a ride height first, then add a body, this dictates the weight of the front/back of the car and the spring loads/adjustment. I thought (again maybe wrongly) determining the final setup would be a mistake before now.
Kr
Nick
I should also add the reason I have put the details/photos of my project on this forum is because I was asked by a number of people.
I am not wanting oohs and ahs I know I have a load of work to do, the idea was to make a car purely from scrap available off eBay for as little as possible. To make a £500k car for £500 (OK up to £2k now
) From the CarPC to the Megasquirt everything has been hand made/built from scratch.
For me the challenge was to take a 1970s V12, mate it to a transaxle which involved machining flywheels, clutches, spigot bearings etc.. then bringing it all to life, making it change gear using powerboat steering cables, rebuilding a couple of tired Nissan 200 turbos plumbing them in, calculating the fuel tables and associated settings etc.. this to me was the challenge.
The car will have scissor doors this is so i can get in/out when its in my garage! The front narrower than the OEM so I can open my internal garage door. This car is about building something completely from scratch that no one has ever done before. I guess that's why I was asked to post its "blog" on here.
Cheers
Nick
I am not wanting oohs and ahs I know I have a load of work to do, the idea was to make a car purely from scrap available off eBay for as little as possible. To make a £500k car for £500 (OK up to £2k now
) From the CarPC to the Megasquirt everything has been hand made/built from scratch. For me the challenge was to take a 1970s V12, mate it to a transaxle which involved machining flywheels, clutches, spigot bearings etc.. then bringing it all to life, making it change gear using powerboat steering cables, rebuilding a couple of tired Nissan 200 turbos plumbing them in, calculating the fuel tables and associated settings etc.. this to me was the challenge.
The car will have scissor doors this is so i can get in/out when its in my garage! The front narrower than the OEM so I can open my internal garage door. This car is about building something completely from scratch that no one has ever done before. I guess that's why I was asked to post its "blog" on here.
Cheers
Nick
GIRF said:
Thats cool. Good deal to not lock in the front suspension. It would be really great if you can get a bit of seat time to confirm what the sw tells you. Then you can adjust from there.
Thanks for not taking my post as a crticism.
No worries, i know I need help so any and all (constructive) help is really sincerely appreciated.Thanks for not taking my post as a crticism.
tbh the only reason I went for the Zonda shape was because i thought it would be easier to make than a more "curvy" sports car, i.e lots of flat panels.
Cheers
Nick
I can see what looks like broken plaster around your fiberglass. Did you end up smashing the buck to get the fiberglass off?
If so, I suggest it would be worth figuring out what you're going to do if somebody nerfs the bodywork at some point. I don't see how you would ever reproduce exactly the same shape if you started from scratch making a new buck, and it would be a shame if that scenario left you with no other options.
You do still have the option at this stage of turning your current fibreglass bodywork into a mould that you create the final finished product from, even though the extra work that entails might not be attractive.
If so, I suggest it would be worth figuring out what you're going to do if somebody nerfs the bodywork at some point. I don't see how you would ever reproduce exactly the same shape if you started from scratch making a new buck, and it would be a shame if that scenario left you with no other options.
You do still have the option at this stage of turning your current fibreglass bodywork into a mould that you create the final finished product from, even though the extra work that entails might not be attractive.
nicktruman said:
GIRF said:
Thats cool. Good deal to not lock in the front suspension. It would be really great if you can get a bit of seat time to confirm what the sw tells you. Then you can adjust from there.
Thanks for not taking my post as a crticism.
No worries, i know I need help so any and all (constructive) help is really sincerely appreciated.Thanks for not taking my post as a crticism.
tbh the only reason I went for the Zonda shape was because i thought it would be easier to make than a more "curvy" sports car, i.e lots of flat panels.
Cheers
Nick
as for body what you are doing will definatelly work, after all im doing the same to create my buck......... the only risk is the weight it may end up being and therefore the strength because as the weight goes up (due to bondo etc to get the panel nice) the panel has to become stronger making it heavier and so on.
Considering your project is basically the same as mine (scratch build mid engined V12 twin turbo) I absolutelly apluad you in how much you have managed to get done within the budget constraints you have.... as a comparison mine has cost me around £30k just in parts to get were I am (which is slightly behind you with more parts to buy).
Your not doing everything the same way as me... But I can assure you I am watching your project with a lot of interest.
This document here:
http://www.europa-aircraft.biz/pdfs/buildersmanual...
Details how aircraft are made up to an external finish (as opposed to starting with external gel coat and working inwards in a mold)
There are also some interesting tips on the use of different glass cloths and mixing of resin.
Of particular interest is the use of 'micro' (pp9) which is lighter than normal auto bondo (or pug as I know it) I haven't tried it, but I reckon it would be far easier to get a fair finish using micro, and also save weight over normal auto filler.
http://www.europa-aircraft.biz/pdfs/buildersmanual...
Details how aircraft are made up to an external finish (as opposed to starting with external gel coat and working inwards in a mold)
There are also some interesting tips on the use of different glass cloths and mixing of resin.
Of particular interest is the use of 'micro' (pp9) which is lighter than normal auto bondo (or pug as I know it) I haven't tried it, but I reckon it would be far easier to get a fair finish using micro, and also save weight over normal auto filler.
Thanks everyone.
Yesterday I drove the car out of the garage for the first time in months. Pulled out all the polystyrene rear section and thought I would have an easyday enjoying my rather hard two weeks graft.
I put a gallon of juice in the tanks and started the beast, 1st time it started! Drove the car out, let it get hot and ran for 10 minutes, everything working OK.
Turned it off and started cleaning the GRP moldings. Then went to put it back in the garage and nothing, tottaly dead
I pulled out one bank of plugs and it started, put then back - nothing. All the plugs had a huge spark and fuel. I damned if I can see what's wrong
Yesterday I drove the car out of the garage for the first time in months. Pulled out all the polystyrene rear section and thought I would have an easyday enjoying my rather hard two weeks graft.
I put a gallon of juice in the tanks and started the beast, 1st time it started! Drove the car out, let it get hot and ran for 10 minutes, everything working OK.
Turned it off and started cleaning the GRP moldings. Then went to put it back in the garage and nothing, tottaly dead
I pulled out one bank of plugs and it started, put then back - nothing. All the plugs had a huge spark and fuel. I damned if I can see what's wrong
I'm in the process of planning a similar build, not a replica though, a full fat new car. I've been reading up and contacting a few industry friends and they recon the most cost effective way of getting a nice body is do what your doing now.. to use as a plug.. get it as smooth, if not smoother than you want your bodywork.. then make a mould, then ontop of that make your bodywork.. just go for it, that way if your in a crash, or someone dings you in the carpark and it crashes you can just make a new panel out of a mould rather than from scratch again.
I've been offered a carbon/kevlar system to make mine from, but I need to make 12 units to make it worthwhile, so I think make a prototype before going any further.
Anyway. I hope it all goes well and wish you the best of luck with it all.
Many Thanks
Dan
I've been offered a carbon/kevlar system to make mine from, but I need to make 12 units to make it worthwhile, so I think make a prototype before going any further.
Anyway. I hope it all goes well and wish you the best of luck with it all.
Many Thanks
Dan
Hi Nick.
I have been following your thread , and had a look through your gallery pictures. I can appreciate the effort you have put in, done similar things myself....When I had more time.
A couple of things I have spotted (And I really hope you don't mind, though this could be more hurtful that the suspension geometry post above (If you hadn't already done your homework on that one)).
1. A Transit drag link as a top ball joint is over stressed when fitted to a Lotus 7 replica, you will be putting a lot more through one in this application. I saw a picture where the neck of the joint was actually narrower than the threads which worries me. It's to do with the shear forces when braking that will cause fatigue and snap it.
2. This one it much harder to say.....gulp...... You need to do something about the welding, a lot of the joints look to have very poor penetration and could pull apart like Velcro once road driving vibration has got to work on them. Also, the SVA/IVA man could pull you up on them, by which point stripping the car back to a bare chassis would be a nightmare.
Are you using a gasless mig? I've never used or seen what the welds look like immediately after welding hence the question. I have heard they are not a patch on a proper one.
I hope you take this as constructive criticism sa it is the only way it is meant.
Hat's off to you, and good luck.
I have been following your thread , and had a look through your gallery pictures. I can appreciate the effort you have put in, done similar things myself....When I had more time.
A couple of things I have spotted (And I really hope you don't mind, though this could be more hurtful that the suspension geometry post above (If you hadn't already done your homework on that one)).
1. A Transit drag link as a top ball joint is over stressed when fitted to a Lotus 7 replica, you will be putting a lot more through one in this application. I saw a picture where the neck of the joint was actually narrower than the threads which worries me. It's to do with the shear forces when braking that will cause fatigue and snap it.
2. This one it much harder to say.....gulp...... You need to do something about the welding, a lot of the joints look to have very poor penetration and could pull apart like Velcro once road driving vibration has got to work on them. Also, the SVA/IVA man could pull you up on them, by which point stripping the car back to a bare chassis would be a nightmare.
Are you using a gasless mig? I've never used or seen what the welds look like immediately after welding hence the question. I have heard they are not a patch on a proper one.
I hope you take this as constructive criticism sa it is the only way it is meant.
Hat's off to you, and good luck.
Dave Dax builder said:
Hi Nick.
I have been following your thread , and had a look through your gallery pictures. I can appreciate the effort you have put in, done similar things myself....When I had more time.
A couple of things I have spotted (And I really hope you don't mind, though this could be more hurtful that the suspension geometry post above (If you hadn't already done your homework on that one)).
1. A Transit drag link as a top ball joint is over stressed when fitted to a Lotus 7 replica, you will be putting a lot more through one in this application. I saw a picture where the neck of the joint was actually narrower than the threads which worries me. It's to do with the shear forces when braking that will cause fatigue and snap it.
2. This one it much harder to say.....gulp...... You need to do something about the welding, a lot of the joints look to have very poor penetration and could pull apart like Velcro once road driving vibration has got to work on them. Also, the SVA/IVA man could pull you up on them, by which point stripping the car back to a bare chassis would be a nightmare.
Are you using a gasless mig? I've never used or seen what the welds look like immediately after welding hence the question. I have heard they are not a patch on a proper one.
I hope you take this as constructive criticism sa it is the only way it is meant.
Hat's off to you, and good luck.
Hi DaveI have been following your thread , and had a look through your gallery pictures. I can appreciate the effort you have put in, done similar things myself....When I had more time.
A couple of things I have spotted (And I really hope you don't mind, though this could be more hurtful that the suspension geometry post above (If you hadn't already done your homework on that one)).
1. A Transit drag link as a top ball joint is over stressed when fitted to a Lotus 7 replica, you will be putting a lot more through one in this application. I saw a picture where the neck of the joint was actually narrower than the threads which worries me. It's to do with the shear forces when braking that will cause fatigue and snap it.
2. This one it much harder to say.....gulp...... You need to do something about the welding, a lot of the joints look to have very poor penetration and could pull apart like Velcro once road driving vibration has got to work on them. Also, the SVA/IVA man could pull you up on them, by which point stripping the car back to a bare chassis would be a nightmare.
Are you using a gasless mig? I've never used or seen what the welds look like immediately after welding hence the question. I have heard they are not a patch on a proper one.
I hope you take this as constructive criticism sa it is the only way it is meant.
Hat's off to you, and good luck.
Fair comments on all!
I realised the issue with the front top ball joint and have now created a far more substantial wishbone. I guess the proof of the pudding was when i took it out on the road and the front wheel fell off!
That taught me two lessons, a) welding wasn't much good
and wishbone was rubbish too!Hence the previous comments about not liking the front geometry - there is an obvious difference between my creation and a lotus 7, i have no weight at the front, so maybe that will bet better?
As for the welding, well I turned the amps right up! This seems to be th trick with gasless, with gas MIG you can have the amps much lower but for some reason I have to have the feed high and the amps on full? maybe my old MIG is on its last legs?
I have tried to dismantle a few later welds with a hammer and they won't break, and cutting through shows a the weld is quite substantial. But I guess time will tell! When they are rubbed down and painted black they look much better
Today I was welding the frame for the rear engine cover, and I could not get a weld to hold at all! Seems to be luck, if the weld starts it flows nicely, if it sticks the weld splatters all over the place, really frustrating.
Ideally I would like to pay someone to go over them all (or all the important structural ones) Maybe oneday..
Regards
Nick
Hi Nick.
Thanks for not taking my post the wrong way.
The loading on the top ball joint is not vertical, that is free floating as your suspension loads are absorbed through the lower wishbone. The loads are horizontal, and come into play when you brake, the wheel wants to stop and the chassis wants to go forward, this will try to bend the threaded shaft of the joint with the ball part trying to go backwards and the threads going forwards, you will have the whole weight of the car pushing the chassis forward.
I'm sure there is a formula for working out the potential loading, but as a guess you need to work out the distance from the centre of the hub to the top ball joint (Say about 6") and from the joint to the rear of the car (Say 10'/120") giving you a 24:1 ration. weigh the rear of the car (Say 1/2 a ton or 1100 lbs) divide this by 2 to allow for 2 top joints (Say 550 lbs) multipy this by the ratio of 24:1 gives a loading potential of upto 13,200 lbs / 5.8 tonnes of sideways/shear load on that thread...............I've probably got my calculations all wrong but you get where I'm coming from.....Where are the stress analysis boffing when you need one?
Thanks for not taking my post the wrong way.
The loading on the top ball joint is not vertical, that is free floating as your suspension loads are absorbed through the lower wishbone. The loads are horizontal, and come into play when you brake, the wheel wants to stop and the chassis wants to go forward, this will try to bend the threaded shaft of the joint with the ball part trying to go backwards and the threads going forwards, you will have the whole weight of the car pushing the chassis forward.
I'm sure there is a formula for working out the potential loading, but as a guess you need to work out the distance from the centre of the hub to the top ball joint (Say about 6") and from the joint to the rear of the car (Say 10'/120") giving you a 24:1 ration. weigh the rear of the car (Say 1/2 a ton or 1100 lbs) divide this by 2 to allow for 2 top joints (Say 550 lbs) multipy this by the ratio of 24:1 gives a loading potential of upto 13,200 lbs / 5.8 tonnes of sideways/shear load on that thread...............I've probably got my calculations all wrong but you get where I'm coming from.....Where are the stress analysis boffing when you need one?
Dave Dax builder said:
Hi Nick.
Thanks for not taking my post the wrong way.
The loading on the top ball joint is not vertical, that is free floating as your suspension loads are absorbed through the lower wishbone. The loads are horizontal, and come into play when you brake, the wheel wants to stop and the chassis wants to go forward, this will try to bend the threaded shaft of the joint with the ball part trying to go backwards and the threads going forwards, you will have the whole weight of the car pushing the chassis forward.
I'm sure there is a formula for working out the potential loading, but as a guess you need to work out the distance from the centre of the hub to the top ball joint (Say about 6") and from the joint to the rear of the car (Say 10'/120") giving you a 24:1 ration. weigh the rear of the car (Say 1/2 a ton or 1100 lbs) divide this by 2 to allow for 2 top joints (Say 550 lbs) multipy this by the ratio of 24:1 gives a loading potential of upto 13,200 lbs / 5.8 tonnes of sideways/shear load on that thread...............I've probably got my calculations all wrong but you get where I'm coming from.....Where are the stress analysis boffing when you need one?
Hi DaveThanks for not taking my post the wrong way.
The loading on the top ball joint is not vertical, that is free floating as your suspension loads are absorbed through the lower wishbone. The loads are horizontal, and come into play when you brake, the wheel wants to stop and the chassis wants to go forward, this will try to bend the threaded shaft of the joint with the ball part trying to go backwards and the threads going forwards, you will have the whole weight of the car pushing the chassis forward.
I'm sure there is a formula for working out the potential loading, but as a guess you need to work out the distance from the centre of the hub to the top ball joint (Say about 6") and from the joint to the rear of the car (Say 10'/120") giving you a 24:1 ration. weigh the rear of the car (Say 1/2 a ton or 1100 lbs) divide this by 2 to allow for 2 top joints (Say 550 lbs) multipy this by the ratio of 24:1 gives a loading potential of upto 13,200 lbs / 5.8 tonnes of sideways/shear load on that thread...............I've probably got my calculations all wrong but you get where I'm coming from.....Where are the stress analysis boffing when you need one?
My top ball joints are the huge ones not the skinny earlier type. I bought the wrong ones! I think the thread is over 20mm but I can't remember exactly.
nicktruman said:
tegwin said:
Awsome project...
You do realise that you cant keep it registered as a V-12 scorpio... unforunately its going to have to go through the government IVA/SVA tests to make it road legal/insurable.... Might be worth getting a test manual now and making sure everything is built to spec so it passes the test!
Yes i guess so, the DVLA have said they want to come and look at it! I have to ring them when it has body. theoretically it should maintain its "G" reg plate according to the rules. The engine, transmission, steering electrics are all Ford (well they come out of a Scorpio). I even have a bit of the chassis left (the bits that holds the steering column in place.You do realise that you cant keep it registered as a V-12 scorpio... unforunately its going to have to go through the government IVA/SVA tests to make it road legal/insurable.... Might be worth getting a test manual now and making sure everything is built to spec so it passes the test!
But, if it has to go Q then so be it.
the whole story of the build is here, but you will need to register (free) to see the pictures.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=...
Cheers
Nick
I don't think it'll keep the reg though as it will need an SVA (enhanced one I suspect).
The regs say to keep the ID it must have an original (or new) non modified chassis plus 2 major components.
Well actually it says it must score 8 out of 14 points awarded:
chassis 5
steering 2
suspension 2
transmission 2
axles 2
engine 1
But it does say chassis can not be modified or 2nd hand.
BTW - what sort of hp/torque is that motor making??
300bhp/ton said:
Very cool
I don't think it'll keep the reg though as it will need an SVA (enhanced one I suspect).
The regs say to keep the ID it must have an original (or new) non modified chassis plus 2 major components.
Well actually it says it must score 8 out of 14 points awarded:
chassis 5
steering 2
suspension 2
transmission 2
axles 2
engine 1
But it does say chassis can not be modified or 2nd hand.
BTW - what sort of hp/torque is that motor making??
Hi, thanks Mate! I know it will have to be sva'd or something but I can dream I don't think it'll keep the reg though as it will need an SVA (enhanced one I suspect).
The regs say to keep the ID it must have an original (or new) non modified chassis plus 2 major components.
Well actually it says it must score 8 out of 14 points awarded:
chassis 5
steering 2
suspension 2
transmission 2
axles 2
engine 1
But it does say chassis can not be modified or 2nd hand.
BTW - what sort of hp/torque is that motor making??
As for power, should be around 450/550bhp the stock motor is 320 +15psi boost. tbh not really that bothered, it will produce more power than i need, it doesn't weigh that much either so power to weight should be awesome and anyway having the turbos strapped to a V12 looks cool.
Calculations predict that the car should do 0-60 in about 2.7 secs and have a top speed of 187 mph. However the same calculator also said it would wheelspin to 90 mph (no traction control or LSD)
I would be happy for now if it would just run properly. I started it this morning and backed it out the garage, ran beautifully for about an hour. tried later and started ran for a few mins the died. v strange, huge spark and petrol.
Seriously annoying as pushing it back into the garage on a gravel drive is hard work!
Regards
Nick
Edited by nicktruman on Wednesday 18th March 22:35
Do you know how much it will weight?... I know the Jag V12 is heavy and my friends nemesis that uses the Jag V12 weighs over 1300kgs.... did you use an Audi box?
Id have to say I think the predictions of 2.7 to 60 are a tad optermistic.. but it will still be bleeding fast with that kind of power.
Id have to say I think the predictions of 2.7 to 60 are a tad optermistic.. but it will still be bleeding fast with that kind of power.
300bhp/ton said:
nicktruman said:
tegwin said:
Awsome project...
You do realise that you cant keep it registered as a V-12 scorpio... unforunately its going to have to go through the government IVA/SVA tests to make it road legal/insurable.... Might be worth getting a test manual now and making sure everything is built to spec so it passes the test!
Yes i guess so, the DVLA have said they want to come and look at it! I have to ring them when it has body. theoretically it should maintain its "G" reg plate according to the rules. The engine, transmission, steering electrics are all Ford (well they come out of a Scorpio). I even have a bit of the chassis left (the bits that holds the steering column in place.You do realise that you cant keep it registered as a V-12 scorpio... unforunately its going to have to go through the government IVA/SVA tests to make it road legal/insurable.... Might be worth getting a test manual now and making sure everything is built to spec so it passes the test!
But, if it has to go Q then so be it.
the whole story of the build is here, but you will need to register (free) to see the pictures.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=...
Cheers
Nick
I don't think it'll keep the reg though as it will need an SVA (enhanced one I suspect).
The regs say to keep the ID it must have an original (or new) non modified chassis plus 2 major components.
Well actually it says it must score 8 out of 14 points awarded:
chassis 5
steering 2
suspension 2
transmission 2
axles 2
engine 1
But it does say chassis can not be modified or 2nd hand.
BTW - what sort of hp/torque is that motor making??
If you call each of the items one point then all you have to score is 2 nowadays, but that will only give you an age related plate (Same year as donor, but not same number)
Even so, this looks like it is going to be on a "Q".
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff