MNR reverse kits?

[colin 82]

Hi guys.....well, after searching the net for some months now it looks like i have secured a MNR VORTEX, powered by an R1 engine.
The car does not have a revers and was hoping you helpful lot could help me. I hear MNR do there own eletric reverse......anyone on here fitted or used on?? price ets??

thanks in advance

colin

[singlecoil]

I had a feeling that MNR, or maybe it was somebody else, did an actual reverse gearbox rather than electric. I know MK do an electric kit.

I expect MNR will be able to tell you about prices (and which type they do)

[rdodger]

MNR's reverse solution is a inline gearbox similar to the Quaife.



£587 I believe.

There was a feature in CKC's last issue I think on bike reverse kits.

Edited by rdodger on Friday 19th March 12:24

[gtmdriver]

Here's one example of an electric reverse gear.

I took this photo at Stoneleigh last year.

I though this was quite a neat solution.



The toothed wheel is sandwiched between the propshaft and diff flanges and is driven by a pre-engaged starter motor.

If only I could remember what car it was fitted to.

[spdpug98]

If you want to fit either the MNR or Quaife reverse box, you will also require 2 new prop shafts to enable it to fit, I have the Quaife reverse box on my MNR

Not sure how the electric / starter motor system works but I beileve it may be MK who make it

Edited: for my usual terrible speellling!

Edited by spdpug98 on Friday 19th March 18:47

[Stubby Pete]

gtmdriver said:

Here's one example of an electric reverse gear.

I took this photo at Stoneleigh last year.

I though this was quite a neat solution.



The toothed wheel is sandwiched between the propshaft and diff flanges and is driven by a pre-engaged starter motor.

If only I could remember what car it was fitted to.

To take this one level further and to reduce the drag when not in use, the starter motor can be fitted to a cradle which is engaged by pulling a cable tight.

[singlecoil]

Stubby Pete said:

To take this one level further and to reduce the drag when not in use, the starter motor can be fitted to a cradle which is engaged by pulling a cable tight.

I'm not following that. What would the source of drag be when the motor is not being used?

[OwenK]

singlecoil said:

Stubby Pete said:

To take this one level further and to reduce the drag when not in use, the starter motor can be fitted to a cradle which is engaged by pulling a cable tight.

I'm not following that. What would the source of drag be when the motor is not being used?

The motor turning backward creates electricity from the rotation (working as a dynamo) which will add a load to the engine. Not much, but still...

[Ferg]

OwenK said:

singlecoil said:

Stubby Pete said:

To take this one level further and to reduce the drag when not in use, the starter motor can be fitted to a cradle which is engaged by pulling a cable tight.

I'm not following that. What would the source of drag be when the motor is not being used?

The motor turning backward creates electricity from the rotation (working as a dynamo) which will add a load to the engine. Not much, but still...

But it's engaged by a solenoid. It isn't connected unless it's being used...

[Colin 1985]

Ferg said:

But it's engaged by a solenoid. It isn't connected unless it's being used...

This^^^^



Sorry for the poor picture, but on a chain drive car the reverse I use consists of a starter motor which, when engaged throws a cog onto a toothed fly wheel bolted to the diff. Its not a great solution because it is geared too high so struggles to turn the wheels (could do with a better battery maybe or a slower turning motor) but if done properly an electric reverse has its advantages. For example my fathers BEC used a quaife reverse box and it seemed to sap quite a bit of power and also required its own oil supply which when hot would expand, with a reverse box you also have more rotational inertia so will slow you down by more than you might expect.

I think zcars have a solution give them a ring.

Also a quick google: http://www.westgarage.co.uk/contact/contact1.html

[rhinochopig]

Reverse transfer boxes are a PITA IMO. Having had a mech box on my BEC (later removed) I would go for the the electric reverse option.

My experience of them was:

• Bloody heavy
• Power sapping
• Can cause severe vibrations at speed - the reason why I took mine off.
• Makes gear change very clunky - torque tube centre bearing PS gives a much better change.
• Expensive compared to electric

[gtmdriver]

As Ferg pointed out the whole point of using the starter motor is that it's not engaged when it's not in use.
The drive gear retracts once it's switched off in exactly the same way as it does when it's connected to the engine.

[spdpug98]

Just to add a bit to my previous post, I believe that the starter motor reverse is not really a full time solution; if you think that you will need to use it on a regular basis for reversing (if that makes sense), more of a solution to pass the IVA etc

It will not get the car up an incline, whereas the Quaife and MNR box will. I needed a proper reverse box as my drive slopes down towards the garage and I would never get the car out with a starter motor reverse - or so people with them have told me

Or someone with one will be along in a minute to tell me - I am talking a load of tosh!

[singlecoil]

spdpug98 said:

Or someone with one will be along in a minute to tell me - I am talking a load of tosh!

Not tosh, in your situation you do need the gearbox solution. Most people will be ok with the electric version though.

[rhinochopig]

spdpug98 said:

Just to add a bit to my previous post, I believe that the starter motor reverse is not really a full time solution; if you think that you will need to use it on a regular basis for reversing (if that makes sense), more of a solution to pass the IVA etc

It will not get the car up an incline, whereas the Quaife and MNR box will. I needed a proper reverse box as my drive slopes down towards the garage and I would never get the car out with a starter motor reverse - or so people with them have told me

Or someone with one will be along in a minute to tell me - I am talking a load of tosh!

I'd call someone who fits them such as the KC workshop or z-cars and get a first hand response. The ones I've seen are very strong with a lot of grunt - the limit being how long the battery lasts (which is ages). If you think how a starter motor will pull a car weighing 1.5 tons along until the battery dies, then I'm sure it'll cope with a 450kg KC. As I said though, speak to someone who fits them into their kits.

Personally I would never have a mech box in a BEC after the problems I had with mine.