Mac#1 Motorsport Worx Build
Discussion
Good progress, keep it up.
FWIW regarding the side panels Westfields have fibreglass sides then an optional outer aluminium panel then the chassis then an optional inner aluminium panel (usually vinyl covered). Most go for the outer panel as you have on your Mac#1 and some go for the inner panel depending on how you want it to look and what edges your chassis has that may need covering up for IVA.
Mike
FWIW regarding the side panels Westfields have fibreglass sides then an optional outer aluminium panel then the chassis then an optional inner aluminium panel (usually vinyl covered). Most go for the outer panel as you have on your Mac#1 and some go for the inner panel depending on how you want it to look and what edges your chassis has that may need covering up for IVA.
Mike
MH said:
Most go for the outer panel as you have on your Mac#1
Is there any particular reason for that, apart from not wanting to se the rear of the GRP? Seems like a fair bit of extra work and weight for no particular reason otherwise, and it's not even mentioned in the otherwise very comprehensive Westfield manual I have here.Extra rigidity, safety, keeping crud out, appearance.
Given that they are optional (or at least they used to be), I can hardly remember seeing any without (other than maybe sprint cars) them and personally don't see why you would not fit them.
Mike
Given that they are optional (or at least they used to be), I can hardly remember seeing any without (other than maybe sprint cars) them and personally don't see why you would not fit them.
Mike
Edited by MH on Tuesday 6th April 13:37
MH said:
Extra rigidity, safety, keeping crud out, appearance.
Given that they are optional (or at least they used to be), I can hardly remember seeing any without (other than maybe sprint cars) them and personally don't see why you would not fit them.
Well we will have to agree to disagree then, because personally I don't see why you would fit them.Given that they are optional (or at least they used to be), I can hardly remember seeing any without (other than maybe sprint cars) them and personally don't see why you would not fit them.
Edited by singlecoil on Tuesday 6th April 13:57
One brand new Sierra steering rack, which has since been packaged up and sent to Mac Motorsport to be shortened.
I've been in the garage today and made a bit of progress, the drivers side panel was notched to fit around the steering column support bracket and then the front end had its first cut to accomodate the brackets for headlight, strut top and upper wishbone arm.
Holes were then cut into the side panel to allow access to the wishbone mounting brackets. The drivers side of the scuttle panel was notched to fit around the steering column support bracket and then secured to the chassis using rivnuts.
Doesn't look much in the photo's but it took me ages in the garage to get to this stage!
I've been in the garage today and made a bit of progress, the drivers side panel was notched to fit around the steering column support bracket and then the front end had its first cut to accomodate the brackets for headlight, strut top and upper wishbone arm.
Holes were then cut into the side panel to allow access to the wishbone mounting brackets. The drivers side of the scuttle panel was notched to fit around the steering column support bracket and then secured to the chassis using rivnuts.
Doesn't look much in the photo's but it took me ages in the garage to get to this stage!
Well it's been another busy day in the garage for me...
Drivers side panel with notch and rivnuts as mentioned earlier
Rear of the drivers side panel modified to fit around the base of the roll bar
Began cutting and fitting the passenger side panel
Scuttle panel fastened into position at both sides
With the bonnet on it finally begins to resemble a car
Drivers side panel with notch and rivnuts as mentioned earlier
Rear of the drivers side panel modified to fit around the base of the roll bar
Began cutting and fitting the passenger side panel
Scuttle panel fastened into position at both sides
With the bonnet on it finally begins to resemble a car
Todays plan of attack... get the side panels chopped down and have the nose cone mounted by the end of play.
Nose cone provisionally mounted to mark out where the side panels need to be cut
Passenger side cut, still masked off
Drivers side, cut and unmasked
How it looks without the bonnet
Bonnet rested in place, to pose for the camera
A full frontal shot
I couldn't help one last glance back to the garage before closing the door
Nose cone provisionally mounted to mark out where the side panels need to be cut
Passenger side cut, still masked off
Drivers side, cut and unmasked
How it looks without the bonnet
Bonnet rested in place, to pose for the camera
A full frontal shot
I couldn't help one last glance back to the garage before closing the door
singlecoil said:
I'm always impressed at what people manage to achieve in a single garage. Careful planning, good discipline and resistance to claustrophobia needed.
You've got to be tidy and organised, it's a pain getting started as i have to move things like the bikes every time... one day i'll have a huge garage (hopefully)MH said:
Great progress. It's looking really good.
Mike
Cheers Mike Mike
I've been in the garage again today and managed to get the rear end cut and clamped into position.
And while I was at it I couldn't resist clamping one of the rear arches on to see how it'd look
Looking a lot more car like now
Red16 said:
I will be using a Kawasaki ZX10r engine
Do you have to decide which engine you will be using before you order the kit, or can you decide later? Are all the engine mounting points for a ZX10 lump all ready located on the chassis? If so, is it easy to make up new mounting points for any engine of your choice, or do you need to order a different chassis?I'm not too clued up on kit cars. However, it is my intention some time in the not too distant future to own one. If its not economic madness, I may consider buying one at the right price if it has a crap engine which I can swap for something more suitable to my needs (I am torn between a BEC and Honda S2000 running gear, the later could be supercharged at a later date). Appologies for the slight derail.
Cheers
Toilet Duck said:
Do you have to decide which engine you will be using before you order the kit, or can you decide later? Are all the engine mounting points for a ZX10 lump all ready located on the chassis? If so, is it easy to make up new mounting points for any engine of your choice, or do you need to order a different chassis?
I'm not too clued up on kit cars. However, it is my intention some time in the not too distant future to own one. If its not economic madness, I may consider buying one at the right price if it has a crap engine which I can swap for something more suitable to my needs (I am torn between a BEC and Honda S2000 running gear, the later could be supercharged at a later date). Appologies for the slight derail.
Cheers
You decide on which engine you want to run before ordering the kit, because the engine mounts are welded to the front lower chassis rails aswell as in the removable engine cradle, to suit your choice of engine. Also depending on which engine you choose, you will choose a different rear diff, so mounts could change for that too.I'm not too clued up on kit cars. However, it is my intention some time in the not too distant future to own one. If its not economic madness, I may consider buying one at the right price if it has a crap engine which I can swap for something more suitable to my needs (I am torn between a BEC and Honda S2000 running gear, the later could be supercharged at a later date). Appologies for the slight derail.
Cheers
If you wanted to change engines at a later date it's quite a big job, a new cradle would be required aswell as new mounts on the chassis. Changing from bike engine to car engine would require new propshaft, gearbox mounts, a suitable gearbox, different exhaust, new dash as clocks, probably different rear diff or at least diff ratio etc. You'd probably be better off selling the car and building a new one to be honest.
Not been doing a lot on the car lately, been too busy playing Modern Warfare 2 on the PS3, the big kid that I am, lol.
Anyway, I took delivery of a package from Mac#1 this morning
A new steering column and linkages, and a my Sierra rack which has been shortened
Anyway, I took delivery of a package from Mac#1 this morning
A new steering column and linkages, and a my Sierra rack which has been shortened
Edited by Red16 on Thursday 6th May 16:46
Here's possibly the poorest update ever...
A coat of Hammerite Hammered spray paint and the steering rack and link arm look like this
I might get round to fitting the rack and cutting the holes in the bodywork for the rack arms to come through tomorrow, then if i'm really lucky fix the bodywork to the chassis permanently
A coat of Hammerite Hammered spray paint and the steering rack and link arm look like this
I might get round to fitting the rack and cutting the holes in the bodywork for the rack arms to come through tomorrow, then if i'm really lucky fix the bodywork to the chassis permanently
Not much progress of late due to work, but I've managed to spend a bit of money and get some new parts
A set of Team Dynamics Pro 1.2 wheels with Toyo R888 tyres in 205/60/13 for the rear and 185/60/13 for the front.
The fronts weigh in at 12.5kg per corner and the rears 13.6kg per corner.
A set of Gaz Gold coilovers, revalved to work upside down.
Wilwood 4 pot rear handbrake calipers.
Handbrake lever and cables to suit the above calipers.
Solid rear discs, rear caliper mounting brackets and a bag of longer wheel studs to suit the Pro 1.2 wheels.
Solid front discs and Wilwood 4 pot calipers.
Front brake caliper mounting brackets, bolts and brake fittings.
And a set of brake pads,
A set of Team Dynamics Pro 1.2 wheels with Toyo R888 tyres in 205/60/13 for the rear and 185/60/13 for the front.
The fronts weigh in at 12.5kg per corner and the rears 13.6kg per corner.
A set of Gaz Gold coilovers, revalved to work upside down.
Wilwood 4 pot rear handbrake calipers.
Handbrake lever and cables to suit the above calipers.
Solid rear discs, rear caliper mounting brackets and a bag of longer wheel studs to suit the Pro 1.2 wheels.
Solid front discs and Wilwood 4 pot calipers.
Front brake caliper mounting brackets, bolts and brake fittings.
And a set of brake pads,
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