Aluminium monocoupes and kit cars
Discussion
sounds interesting and great you do it yourself.
you know (I guess) that Tornado also do a alu mono GT40 chassis?
they do chassis Type Tubular Spaceframe / Aluminium monocoque / Carbon Monocoque
http://www.tornadosportscars.com/GT40/GT40Specs.ht...
and also RCR does such alu mono chassis for the GT40.
you know (I guess) that Tornado also do a alu mono GT40 chassis?
they do chassis Type Tubular Spaceframe / Aluminium monocoque / Carbon Monocoque
http://www.tornadosportscars.com/GT40/GT40Specs.ht...
and also RCR does such alu mono chassis for the GT40.
Stubby Pete said:
I might set some thing off here ! the Quantum was a development /evo of the Robin Hood S7 I presently run the car from which lots of measurements were taken in the mid 90's during it's build by I. Pettinger in Pudsey Yorks .Apart from some minor cracking issues it has served me well over the last8/9 years 30k miles ,3 Le Mans trips etc ,its heavy [800k wet] but I get lots of fun/pleasure out of it . There was some doubt about the grade of stainless used by RH I dont know if Quantum changed spec or not may be some one out there can throw some light on this ? regards oemone eyed mick said:
There was some doubt about the grade of stainless used by RH I dont know if Quantum changed spec or not may be some one out there can throw some light on this?
I'm pretty sure that Quantum mentioned something about the type of steel they used (i.e. a more ductile grade than RH) when they originally launched the car.I had it in mind that the Quantum used Zintec, but that can't be right if they are claiming (as they do on their website) that it is stainless.
I'll have a dig through my archives some time to see if I can come up with anything, though the easy way would probably just be to ring up and ask them!
Yes Imperial measurements........But I also use Metric
When I was at school, we changed from imperial to metric, so I learnt both, and use both
Lots of steel is still sold in Imperial measurements
I sometimes use both metric, and imperial together. ie lbs per 25mm squared
It may sound a bit complicated, but infact, it is much easyer if you can use both
When I was at school, we changed from imperial to metric, so I learnt both, and use both
Lots of steel is still sold in Imperial measurements
I sometimes use both metric, and imperial together. ie lbs per 25mm squared
It may sound a bit complicated, but infact, it is much easyer if you can use both
mickky3 said:
Hi Blake,
If you live near me, Im in Hampshire, you are welcome to come and have a look, at my chassis, but its in the early stages at the moment
I tried to post a pic of a "side sponson", but the pic was too big, ill have to try to resize it
mick
Thanks for the update and offer to come and have a look. Unfortunately I'm based in Manchester so cant really just pop down as much as I would love to see the project. If you live near me, Im in Hampshire, you are welcome to come and have a look, at my chassis, but its in the early stages at the moment
I tried to post a pic of a "side sponson", but the pic was too big, ill have to try to resize it
mick
Do you have a background in this type of construction? Are you gluing the joints as well? I would really like to see any pictures you have of the project would you mind emailing me them? or have you considered a build diary so that we can all learn from you-er experience.
I have previous experiance in this type of constrection, but neither did Colin Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_25
I have researched the project for more than 12 months, and am now ready to start building my chassis. A riveted chassis is strong enough, but because of fatiuge, the rivets would eventually become loose and the chassis would fall apart, that is why you need to bond the chassis as well as riveting it.
here are some links to sites about riveting, and metal properties
http://www.netwelding.com/Metalurgical_Definitions... The piece about stiffness is particlary intresting
http://rgl.faa.gov/REGULATORY_AND_GUIDANCE_LIBRARY...
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-12.html
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-87-1.html
I dont claim to be an expert, on alloy mono construction, but Im happy to share my knowledge with anyone who is intrested....just ask...
Blake ill email you some pics later this weekend
I have researched the project for more than 12 months, and am now ready to start building my chassis. A riveted chassis is strong enough, but because of fatiuge, the rivets would eventually become loose and the chassis would fall apart, that is why you need to bond the chassis as well as riveting it.
here are some links to sites about riveting, and metal properties
http://www.netwelding.com/Metalurgical_Definitions... The piece about stiffness is particlary intresting
http://rgl.faa.gov/REGULATORY_AND_GUIDANCE_LIBRARY...
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-12.html
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-87-1.html
I dont claim to be an expert, on alloy mono construction, but Im happy to share my knowledge with anyone who is intrested....just ask...
Blake ill email you some pics later this weekend
here are some links to alloy chassis build threads on gt40s .com
This is a lola T70 replica
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/lola-t70-lounge/22490-l...
The guy building the chassis is amazing...he has given me some usefull advice..
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/auto-collection/12585-f...
Leon is makeing a Maclaren M20 replica
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/auto-collection/28393-m...
If you read the posts aswell as looking at the pics, you will find some intresting information
This is a lola T70 replica
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/lola-t70-lounge/22490-l...
The guy building the chassis is amazing...he has given me some usefull advice..
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/auto-collection/12585-f...
Leon is makeing a Maclaren M20 replica
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/auto-collection/28393-m...
If you read the posts aswell as looking at the pics, you will find some intresting information
mickky3 said:
I have previous experiance in this type of constrection, but neither did Colin Chapman
I have researched the project for more than 12 months, and am now ready to start building my chassis. A riveted chassis is strong enough, but because of fatiuge, the rivets would eventually become loose and the chassis would fall apart, that is why you need to bond the chassis as well as riveting it.
I dont claim to be an expert, on alloy mono construction, but Im happy to share my knowledge with anyone who is intrested....just ask...
Blake ill email you some pics later this weekend
Thanks, I have researched the project for more than 12 months, and am now ready to start building my chassis. A riveted chassis is strong enough, but because of fatiuge, the rivets would eventually become loose and the chassis would fall apart, that is why you need to bond the chassis as well as riveting it.
I dont claim to be an expert, on alloy mono construction, but Im happy to share my knowledge with anyone who is intrested....just ask...
Blake ill email you some pics later this weekend
I did not mean for the question to be a put down however when I have asked simaler questions on other web boards the general consensus is its not worth it. with no real explanation as to why other than a lack of experience, in the construction method.
As for questions I have many and will have to take the time to come and have a look at what you are doing when ever i'm in the area.
so how about we start with some simple ones. What glues are you using? How to you prep joints for gluing and riveting? Are you hand cutting panels if so how? have you made a scale moddle of youer structure? what tools or jigs have you needed to make to build the monocope.
The adhesive to use with rivets would be Araldite 420...its the same adhesive that is used in the construction of alluminium honeycomb panels
The surfaces have to be very clean. Im not sure of the exact cleaner you need to use, but it is very important to have the correct one....I havent done any bonding yet, so I havnt looked closly into it..
I may not rivet and bond the chassis, one of the big diadvantages of useing aralldite 420 are it has to be very clean...it is a 2 part adhesive, and you have to mix it by weight, and you have only about 20 mins working time before it goes off
I may bolt the whole structure together with stainless steel, button cap sets screws, and flange nuts. I would have to coat the stainless steel with a zinc chromate primer, to avoid corrosion between dissimilar metals. I would also locktite the the threads
Here is a pic of a Lola T70 chassis with button cap set screws. Im not sure if the whole structure is bolted, but you can see they have used bolts in certain places.......
I am working on my chassis now, ive just stopped for dinner. ill answer your other questions, next time I have a break
The surfaces have to be very clean. Im not sure of the exact cleaner you need to use, but it is very important to have the correct one....I havent done any bonding yet, so I havnt looked closly into it..
I may not rivet and bond the chassis, one of the big diadvantages of useing aralldite 420 are it has to be very clean...it is a 2 part adhesive, and you have to mix it by weight, and you have only about 20 mins working time before it goes off
I may bolt the whole structure together with stainless steel, button cap sets screws, and flange nuts. I would have to coat the stainless steel with a zinc chromate primer, to avoid corrosion between dissimilar metals. I would also locktite the the threads
Here is a pic of a Lola T70 chassis with button cap set screws. Im not sure if the whole structure is bolted, but you can see they have used bolts in certain places.......
I am working on my chassis now, ive just stopped for dinner. ill answer your other questions, next time I have a break
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