5000M build

Author
Discussion

GTRene

16,628 posts

225 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
if you dump the tank and the engine and some other stuff, you could add a buddy seat in the middle and make it a Flinstone car, room enough to stick your feet/legs through biggrin
it then is a cheap "running" or to "run" car ;-)
broem broem biggrin

Astacus

3,387 posts

235 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
Inspiring work.

Very Very Good. It even looks good "nekid"!biggrin

Slow M

2,737 posts

207 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
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catfishdb said:
Is the Aluminium box the tank, or is it the housing for a bladder?

B.

catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
The aluminum box is the tank. Complete with internal baffles. It worked out to be larger than the original, I forget how much bigger.
Arthur

oldgeebee

340 posts

157 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
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catfishdb said:
Hi Graham,

The chassis was first zinc coated, not hot dipped but a sprayed on application before the powdercoat. The added protection couldn't hurt. It is tough because I have seen the fabricator have to grind away at a different chassis to weld on some missed brackets. I would elaborate on the process if I knew more about it.

Arthur

Hi Arthur, how did you prepare for the zinc - sand-, shot-, soda-, walnut shell- etc. blasting?
GB

Campbell

2,499 posts

284 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
Thats looking so sweet, looking forward to seeing how how you get on with it.
Im planning to to a boady off of my Taimar this winter and want to sort and strengthen the chassis and rebush the suspention and run now fuel and brake lines.
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...

Cambelt

catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
oldgeebee said:

Hi Arthur, how did you prepare for the zinc - sand-, shot-, soda-, walnut shell- etc. blasting?
GB
The chassis was in near perfect condition aside from some surface rust. The oil leaks kept the tunnel area pristine although filthy. It was sand blasted to the remove the old paint and surface rust. You can be too aggressive with sand and even warp thinner metals with the heat build-up but the sand will expose areas that you thought looked O.K. but might need some attention. The sand blasting revealed some slightly deeper pitting on top of the square section tubing at the outer edges of the rear diff. carrier but was still sound. I was very happy with the condition of the chassis and no original tubes were removed.
There have been a couple of extra braces added at the tunnel sides near the transmission. As well as gussets added where the suspension arms are connected to the frame. I was not happy with the original hand brake action so an aftermarket unit was used that will actually apply useful braking pressure. The new unit's cable interfered with one of the upper tubes in the tunnel area so a notch was created to solve this. I will post a couple of images tomorrow that show what I have just mentioned.

Arthur

ivanhoew

978 posts

242 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
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arthur ,were there no spare wheel mounting legs ,on the top chassis rail at the front, originally?

my250gt

628 posts

220 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
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catfishdb said:
Arthur, those dont look like normal wheel studs?

Geoff38

789 posts

247 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Campbell said:
Thats looking so sweet, looking forward to seeing how how you get on with it.
Im planning to to a boady off of my Taimar this winter and want to sort and strengthen the chassis and rebush the suspention and run now fuel and brake lines.
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...

Cambelt
Campbell
This is the sort of angle you have to get the body at to go on or off to clear the foot wells.....



this is mine going back on to MY250GT's rolling chassis. And I have the other set of those wheels , compomotives made to specified offset.

Cheers
Geoff.

my250gt

628 posts

220 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
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Geoff, how about a pic of your Taimar with the compo's on it, you might want to keep them once you see how it looks yes

Geoff38

789 posts

247 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
The only problem with doing that is you will be able to see the white wishbones and red chassis thru them , not sure that will look so good. I think they will be better used on the next project....what ever that will be.

For this one I might just polish up the turbo vane wheels it has on it now and see how it looks.

Or the T-slots still look good when polished up...


Will let the thread get back to original topic now.

catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
my250gt said:
catfishdb said:
Arthur, those dont look like normal wheel studs?
They are just longer than typical and I might just leave them that way.

catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Here is a better angle of the hand brake alteration.


catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
In the previous photo and in this one you can just see some pitting in the top of the square section tubes. It was deep enough to be visible but not terminal.


metisse

10 posts

154 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
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catfishdb said:
another angle of the TVR Atom

How about the temperature under the bonnet? don't you ekspect trouble's ?

catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Campbell said:
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...

Cambelt
It is a typical 1986 Ford 302 H.O. V8. Only worked a minor bit. Expected output at 300hp. I always wanted the burble of a V8. You just can't beat that sound.

The wheels were purchased from my250gt, special offset 17" Compomotives.

catfishdb

Original Poster:

235 posts

170 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
metisse said:
How about the temperature under the bonnet? don't you ekspect trouble's ?
Part of the reason to remove the spare was to instal a larger radiator. The headers are stainless that have been ceramic coated to lower the under bonnet temp. Of course the heat has to go somewhere so it will just get hotter under the car.

GTRene

16,628 posts

225 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
that is going to be a very nice car with a nice engine, I'm also hooked on V8 the sound and the
power and being shorter then in-line 6 and its nice to say you have a V8 under the bonnet.

Moto

1,240 posts

254 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Are those stainless water hoses? They do look superb.

Moto