3428TM Build Log
Discussion
Still dealing with oil pump issues.
On the opposite end of the car, there's been progress as well.
Just laid in place for the sake of coordination. I think we're in really good shape for fitting all of the pumps and filters outboard from where the surge tank is shown in that photo. We'll push everything as far to the passenger's side as possible, before locking it down.
On the opposite end of the car, there's been progress as well.
Just laid in place for the sake of coordination. I think we're in really good shape for fitting all of the pumps and filters outboard from where the surge tank is shown in that photo. We'll push everything as far to the passenger's side as possible, before locking it down.
Good conversation with Leo from Barnes about options and decided on the TRD style bracket and I'll cut new ones for the engine side. That'll reconfigure the in/out locations and keep the driveshaft more or less on its current centerline.
current:
He said that it came from some NASCAR team. That they each had special wishes on pump configurations. This one was made without an internal pressure relief valve, so we are using an external one. Apparently, this would have been used on a Chevy.
current:
He said that it came from some NASCAR team. That they each had special wishes on pump configurations. This one was made without an internal pressure relief valve, so we are using an external one. Apparently, this would have been used on a Chevy.
I added the starter button and some small scratches to the dash and then I added the master disconnect and a big, f
king gouge to the switch panel. The signal I'm getting from my back is knocking refinishing those parts way down the priority list.
In all honesty, I botched the sequencing of the work on the switch panel. I should have countersunk the aluminum for the bolt head recesses first, and THEN made the hole for the key post. Doing it the other way around distorted the center hole.
king gouge to the switch panel. The signal I'm getting from my back is knocking refinishing those parts way down the priority list. In all honesty, I botched the sequencing of the work on the switch panel. I should have countersunk the aluminum for the bolt head recesses first, and THEN made the hole for the key post. Doing it the other way around distorted the center hole.
Where did you mount it/them?
We installed one at the right side base of the windscreen.
Either one will shut everything off.
I prefer that to a pull string set-up.
Yes, I've seen that done, successfully, dozens of times but at the end of the day, it's a life-safety component.
Might as well do it the best way I know.
We installed one at the right side base of the windscreen.
Either one will shut everything off.
I prefer that to a pull string set-up.
Yes, I've seen that done, successfully, dozens of times but at the end of the day, it's a life-safety component.
Might as well do it the best way I know.
Even if you're only using it as a road car, and depending on how you wired your circuits, you may be better off relocating the master to the exterior.
Especially if your ignition key still turns off everything it did originally.
That way, you can power up, and get the lights operational before you get in, and you still have a means of turning all functions off from inside.
Especially if your ignition key still turns off everything it did originally.
That way, you can power up, and get the lights operational before you get in, and you still have a means of turning all functions off from inside.
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