questions about TVR 3000M with 1978 essex V6
Discussion
Dear TVR enthusiasts,
I am living in The Netherlands, and I'm interested in a 1978 TVR 3000M. I've got some questions, I hope that someone is able to answer them:
I really like the classic TVR's and now I've found this 3000m.
This car is completely restored, including the engine & gearbox and looks great. However, this car has non original flared arches at the front an the back.
As this is not original, does this negatively influence the value of this car? Although the cars paint is only a few years old, this paint has some cracks in the bonnet. Is this a common problem? Is this a heatproblem? Do I have to worry for more cracks in the future? Is the plastic body, always of point of concern with these classic TVR's?
I assume that a TVR 3000M, based on Ford technique, is easy to repair, relatively easy to repair and not that costly to repair. Are these thought correct?
I hope someone can answer these questions. As the Dutch TVR forum is not so busy, I hope there is someone that can give me some information...
Thanks!
Kind regards from The netherlands.
I am living in The Netherlands, and I'm interested in a 1978 TVR 3000M. I've got some questions, I hope that someone is able to answer them:
I really like the classic TVR's and now I've found this 3000m.
This car is completely restored, including the engine & gearbox and looks great. However, this car has non original flared arches at the front an the back.
As this is not original, does this negatively influence the value of this car? Although the cars paint is only a few years old, this paint has some cracks in the bonnet. Is this a common problem? Is this a heatproblem? Do I have to worry for more cracks in the future? Is the plastic body, always of point of concern with these classic TVR's?
I assume that a TVR 3000M, based on Ford technique, is easy to repair, relatively easy to repair and not that costly to repair. Are these thought correct?
I hope someone can answer these questions. As the Dutch TVR forum is not so busy, I hope there is someone that can give me some information...
Thanks!
Kind regards from The netherlands.
First of all, welcome to the forum.
regarding the non original engine issue, I have never heard of any pre 80s car being down valued because of this, however, as in all cars that have an enthusiastic following, there will always be those who must have the most original and those who are happy to modify their cars. TVRs have a following that often love to modify their cars. You will find that many like to swap engines for the V6 or V8 or change gearboxes to suit modern traffic. Very many have swapped the seats for more "racey" types and so on. Currently it appears, at least to me, that the cars that command high prices are those where restoration work has been done to a high standard.
Ultimately there will always be some premium on cars with "matching numbers" but in the early TVRs, I dont think its as high as in other marques.
Regarding cracks on the bonnet, I dont think that these are usually due to heat. Its usually due to flexing or previous damage that has not been repaired propertly. Fibreglass repairs have to be done correctly, otherwise any cracks will just come straight back. If there are no other problems on the body I would imagine that the cracking is down to rough handling of the bonnet or inadequate repairs. Ask the guy how he did the repairs. You need to grind out any cracks then re-tissue the area and then fill over.
Parts availability for the M series cars is very good. There is a lot of experise in the specialists who cater for the cars. You should have no worries fixing anything that breaks!
Hope that helps
regarding the non original engine issue, I have never heard of any pre 80s car being down valued because of this, however, as in all cars that have an enthusiastic following, there will always be those who must have the most original and those who are happy to modify their cars. TVRs have a following that often love to modify their cars. You will find that many like to swap engines for the V6 or V8 or change gearboxes to suit modern traffic. Very many have swapped the seats for more "racey" types and so on. Currently it appears, at least to me, that the cars that command high prices are those where restoration work has been done to a high standard.
Ultimately there will always be some premium on cars with "matching numbers" but in the early TVRs, I dont think its as high as in other marques.
Regarding cracks on the bonnet, I dont think that these are usually due to heat. Its usually due to flexing or previous damage that has not been repaired propertly. Fibreglass repairs have to be done correctly, otherwise any cracks will just come straight back. If there are no other problems on the body I would imagine that the cracking is down to rough handling of the bonnet or inadequate repairs. Ask the guy how he did the repairs. You need to grind out any cracks then re-tissue the area and then fill over.
Parts availability for the M series cars is very good. There is a lot of experise in the specialists who cater for the cars. You should have no worries fixing anything that breaks!
Hope that helps
Welcome !
i'm in Belgium and have a 3000S, same engine
As per above, condition is the main criteria in values of pre80', not engine swaps
Indeed Ford engines and triumph running gear makes for a easy parts/fix/repair, so no worries there
the stress cracks (thats what they are) are a different thing, GRP body repairs are rather expensive and only for the more capable
Have you/will you acquire the white/brown stripe car ?
Anyway, a picture always helps !
i'm in Belgium and have a 3000S, same engine
As per above, condition is the main criteria in values of pre80', not engine swaps
Indeed Ford engines and triumph running gear makes for a easy parts/fix/repair, so no worries there
the stress cracks (thats what they are) are a different thing, GRP body repairs are rather expensive and only for the more capable
Have you/will you acquire the white/brown stripe car ?
Anyway, a picture always helps !
I fairly sure these cars are now at a point where you won't loose money on them.
The flared arches depend on if they are faithful to the TVR SE type, some home made flares dont look so good.
If it effects its later value? depends on the potential future buyer, overall I'd say not at all.
They are easy to run and maintain and there are specialist suppliers who cater for these cars, the more people use them the more secure the parts supply is.
If you really fancy an M just buy it, like I said I dont think you will or can loose out if you decide its not for you.
The flared arches depend on if they are faithful to the TVR SE type, some home made flares dont look so good.
If it effects its later value? depends on the potential future buyer, overall I'd say not at all.
They are easy to run and maintain and there are specialist suppliers who cater for these cars, the more people use them the more secure the parts supply is.
If you really fancy an M just buy it, like I said I dont think you will or can loose out if you decide its not for you.
Thank you all for your replies with the information.
I really like the look of the 3000M. And for this car, the wide body arches do add the race look that I like.
The car that I'm interested in is currently not for sale on the internet and I've no pictures available. So sadly I'm not able to post any pictures.
The car is well maintained and to my opinion well restored by its current owner. The thing that worry me most are the stress cracks and possible problem with the body. I've had an classic 1965 Volvo p1800s that had some problems with rust. It has cost me a small fortune to repair this. So I hope this car has no such problem. Moreover, I can't really find much cars for sale on the internet to compare it with regarding de quality and the asking price.
I really like the look of the 3000M. And for this car, the wide body arches do add the race look that I like.
The car that I'm interested in is currently not for sale on the internet and I've no pictures available. So sadly I'm not able to post any pictures.
The car is well maintained and to my opinion well restored by its current owner. The thing that worry me most are the stress cracks and possible problem with the body. I've had an classic 1965 Volvo p1800s that had some problems with rust. It has cost me a small fortune to repair this. So I hope this car has no such problem. Moreover, I can't really find much cars for sale on the internet to compare it with regarding de quality and the asking price.
Cerberus90 said:
What's all this about big costs to repair fibreglass?? 
Angle grinder (or a drill), Halfords fibreglass mat and resin, sandpaper, filler and a pair of eyes.
Having watched my Dad repair all the cracks on our Taimar, it doesn't really look that difficult.
I've always prefered my cars painted Angle grinder (or a drill), Halfords fibreglass mat and resin, sandpaper, filler and a pair of eyes.
Having watched my Dad repair all the cracks on our Taimar, it doesn't really look that difficult.
Cerberus90 said:
What's all this about big costs to repair fibreglass??
I agree, it's not "rocket science" just a little different to working with metal bodywork.A very useful and informative (all be it quite old) article here
And a bit of crazing may not look too good but not a structural issue like rust!
Cerberus90 said:
Well yeah, the paint job is expensive, but then aren't all paintjobs expensive?
I'm only joking, and your quite correct ,that as long as you are confident and competent enough, GRP repair is achievable at home without the need for expensive workshop equipment.Edited by GAjon on Tuesday 14th August 12:34
Thank you all for your information.
I've seen the car twice now, and it looks all good to me. I hope I can still negotiate about the price.
Is there a difference in value between the early and the later 3000M models? I thought that the earlier models were the one with the highest value, but I'm not sure as the essex V6 is probably more desirable engine?
The chassis is stripped, newly painted and in perfect shape.
I've seen the car twice now, and it looks all good to me. I hope I can still negotiate about the price.
Is there a difference in value between the early and the later 3000M models? I thought that the earlier models were the one with the highest value, but I'm not sure as the essex V6 is probably more desirable engine?
The chassis is stripped, newly painted and in perfect shape.
GAjon said:
...The flared arches depend on if they are faithful to the TVR SE type...
Agreed that you should verify if they're SE arches. Post pictures if you're able.
There was a modified (dark blue) car in your area, and I thought the changes were very tasteful, if not original.
Best,
B.
I think you mean this car?
I had a lot info about that and pictures but all lost since my PC crashed, I like that car too (when its this one) absolutely worth the money.
Also posted some pictures of that car in this tread a while a go, but they could be lost too...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I had a lot info about that and pictures but all lost since my PC crashed, I like that car too (when its this one) absolutely worth the money.
Also posted some pictures of that car in this tread a while a go, but they could be lost too...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by GTRene on Tuesday 14th August 21:58
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