3000m/Taimar door trim fixing screws?
Discussion
My window frames were held on by a surviving (but not doing a lot) few of those "Rawlplug type things,assorted pop rivets, couple of roofing bolts 'n nuts and a healthy dollop of silicone!
I intend to junk the lot in favour of countersunk screws, big washers and nuts when it all goes back together. Might be a bit fiddely to get nuts on but lot more secure in the long run (imho)
I intend to junk the lot in favour of countersunk screws, big washers and nuts when it all goes back together. Might be a bit fiddely to get nuts on but lot more secure in the long run (imho)
phillpot said:
My window frames were held on by a surviving (but not doing a lot) few of those "Rawlplug type things,assorted pop rivets, couple of roofing bolts 'n nuts and a healthy dollop of silicone!
I intend to junk the lot in favour of countersunk screws, big washers and nuts when it all goes back together. Might be a bit fiddely to get nuts on but lot more secure in the long run (imho)
That's the point, you will have a job doing up nuts inside the door, thats why the factory used the semi rawplug solution.I intend to junk the lot in favour of countersunk screws, big washers and nuts when it all goes back together. Might be a bit fiddely to get nuts on but lot more secure in the long run (imho)
I agree it will be a time consuming fiddle but whereas time is money in a factory I have "all the time in the World" and its not like its something that comes on and off regularly?
Where the roofing bolts had been fitted to mine a hole,about 20mm dia, had been drilled in the inner door skin to enable the nut to be held in place with something like long nose pliers.
Alternatively, maybe something along these lines would be a good alternative
Where the roofing bolts had been fitted to mine a hole,about 20mm dia, had been drilled in the inner door skin to enable the nut to be held in place with something like long nose pliers.
Alternatively, maybe something along these lines would be a good alternative
Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 27th November 22:38
phillpot said:
I agree it will be a time consuming fiddle but whereas time is money in a factory I have "all the time in the World" and its not like its something that comes on and off regularly?
Alternatively, maybe something along these lines would be a good alternative
I used countersunk stainless cap heads and nylocs and washers for the door frame to body fixings. From memory it wasn't so bad to do, little bit fiddly but once started easy enough with a small 1/4 ratchet and some extension barsAlternatively, maybe something along these lines would be a good alternative
N.
on the basis doors are pretty much the same as my Vixen S3 ....
I used a strip of aluminium square bar (about 10mm ?)and drilled and tapped it where the window bolts go through, and then attached the bar to the underside of the door flange with a small countersunk bolt. This way you don't end up sending hours fiddling around trying to get nuts and bolts on, and it's MUCH firmer than the 'rawlplug/speader' grip type fitting...
need to file bar off on one corner to match the GRP 'rolled' inside edge, but fits nicely after that
The frontmost bolt comes out above the (inside) door handle, but drilling carefully allows a nut to be squeezed in behind the trim (with some careful filing of the nut, and grinding a bit of the door)
I used a strip of aluminium square bar (about 10mm ?)and drilled and tapped it where the window bolts go through, and then attached the bar to the underside of the door flange with a small countersunk bolt. This way you don't end up sending hours fiddling around trying to get nuts and bolts on, and it's MUCH firmer than the 'rawlplug/speader' grip type fitting...
need to file bar off on one corner to match the GRP 'rolled' inside edge, but fits nicely after that
The frontmost bolt comes out above the (inside) door handle, but drilling carefully allows a nut to be squeezed in behind the trim (with some careful filing of the nut, and grinding a bit of the door)
Adrian@ said:
The beauty of using original Tap-it is that this allows SOME flexibility
So these Rawlplug Rawlnuts would do a similar job I reckon ?
On the subject of doors 'n windows, made myself some new window frame steady brackets.....
Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 28th November 18:53
Adrian@ said:
The beauty of using original Tap-it is that this allows SOME flexibility when it comes to adjusting the rake and attack of the alloy frame to the door seals, without breaking the inner lip off the top of the door shell...which is then almost impossible to repair once it is broken.Adrian@
That's true - good point. My method with the ally bar does require the window frame to be aligned BEFORE tightening the bolts, and yes, too tight probably would break the door moulding....I did also file the bar profile to get the right angle....and used SS countersunk boltsPhilpot's steady brackets look good too.
For the bottoms, I made 4 small brackets (also in Ally) which are a 'pillar' type design with a wide foot where they attach to the door. Nice, but a b*gger to get the nuts and bolts on the end of the window frames....
Edited by RCK974X on Wednesday 28th November 19:59
http://www.bresco.com/acatalog/info_93080.html
the same as I took out lost and broke available at Bresco
and they fit a treat
the same as I took out lost and broke available at Bresco
and they fit a treat
Edited by DeadSpider on Monday 26th January 22:07
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