New build, old school shell on later spec chassis - discuss?

[Slow M]

heightswitch said:

DavidY said:

Looks fairly period though

Thats what I thought!!

X2

Best,
B.

[PUP805K]

Finished.

A couple of piccy's showing my Taimar as finished.









Hopefully see some of you at Chatsworth.

Geoff G.

Edited by PUP805K on Thursday 4th April 18:16

[GTRene]

I looked at them 3x ;-)
and still love it, what a nice car, I like those SE venders?

[my250gt]

Geoff, the Taimar looks great you must be chuffed to bits. Remember to run it over here so you can show it off!

I am still working on the shell for mine, sorting battery box and pedal box at the moment. Here is a very crude photoshop of how it is going to look when done:

Phil.

[tomtrout]

Well done Geoff - looks fab. I guess if you take it to a show you won't be pestered by people asking you what model it is!!!

[GAjon]

PUP805K said:

Finished.

Mean!!

[madsvlund]

Hi Geoff

Wery nice car. Where did you get the bonnet from ? I'm looking into making a new one next winter but if anybody have a mould for a SE bonnet would that help me a lot

Br Mads

[pridaux]

I believe Adrian at Exactly has the mould if you contact him worth a try
Andrew

[ATE399J]

I hate to ask this but... Is that bonnet NACA duct backwards ?

[PUP805K]

ATE399J said:

I hate to ask this but... Is that bonnet NACA duct backwards ?

Aah, you noticed. What I have not said is that I have put the gearbox in backwards, so it has one forward gear and five reverse, so it needs the ducts to be the way they are!!

Truthfully, I liked the idea of ducts but was worried about water ingression, plus I prefer to let the heat out.

[PUP805K]

madsvlund said:

Hi Geoff

Wery nice car. Where did you get the bonnet from ? I'm looking into making a new one next winter but if anybody have a mould for a SE bonnet would that help me a lot

Br Mads

The bonnet started life without the flares, they were a purchase off eBay and were grafted on by Surface and Design in Blackpool.




Geoff G.

[heightswitch]

Geoff.
What are your tyre sizes again and wheel widths..
Also could you do me a big favour and run a straight edge across the diameter of the tyre to give me the depth from the outer extremity of the tyre to the rim edge??

I am sizing up dads car today and these dimensions would be very helpful

Cheers
N.

[ATE399J]

PUP805K said:

plus I prefer to let the heat out.

Spent 15 years as an Aerodynamicist, some of that time trying to get a 330bhp twin turbo Porsche lump installed in an airship to stay cool.

You are quite right, getting the heat out is just as important as getting the cold in. "Aerodynamically" NACA ducts don't work backwards but on a bonnet...

[PUP805K]

heightswitch said:

Geoff.
What are your tyre sizes again and wheel widths..
Also could you do me a big favour and run a straight edge across the diameter of the tyre to give me the depth from the outer extremity of the tyre to the rim edge??

I am sizing up dads car today and these dimensions would be very helpful

Cheers
N.

Rear 16 x 9 Minilites with 245/45 x 16, front 16 x 7 with 205/55 x 16, all Toyo T1R.

Edge of tyre to edge of wheel rim is 6mm.

Hope this helps,

Geoff G.

[heightswitch]

PUP805K said:

Rear 16 x 9 Minilites with 245/45 x 16, front 16 x 7 with 205/55 x 16, all Toyo T1R.

Edge of tyre to edge of wheel rim is 6mm.

Hope this helps,

Geoff G.

Thanks geoff.
Have had the M sections on dads car. Tyre to edge of rim is about 1 inch

I am probably looking at 16 x 7 front and 16x8 rear and we may space out, I will have a play next week to work oiut back set measurements etc, Have to be a bit carefull with the Lower pivot bars on a vixen upright!

N.

[PUP805K]

heightswitch said:

I am probably looking at 16 x 7 front and 16x8 rear and we may space out...

N.

If you are planning to fit spacers why not go for 16x9? They look great on mine.

Geoff G.

[heightswitch]

PUP805K said:

If you are planning to fit spacers why not go for 16x9? They look great on mine.

Geoff G.

Different car Geoff..The arches at the rear are different and I don't want to over tyre the rear. I wanted to pick wheels where we can have a close balance to front so as not to have too wildly a different rolling radius or profile front to rear. the way the arch tapers to the door line on a vixen is also a consideration..I could in theory fit anything up to 10" rims at the rear because we also modified the inner wheel tubs, for a road car though it would just be silly...Also The old man whinges enough when he has to buy £40 tyres for his rover diesel

16 x 8 with 97mm back space rear and 16 x 7 with 117.5 mm back set fronts will be final size.

N.

Edited by heightswitch on Wednesday 24th April 10:47

[my250gt]

just a quick update, progress has been much slower than i had hoped (basically havent been near it !) but have finally got back onto this project again this week.

Have been wanting to spend some time on the tub and get it back to one piece ready to lift off the chassis which is currently holding everything in place at the moment. (also because its not my chassis, just borrowed it, and it is due to go under a griff refurb sometime soon...).

I wanted to get the outer shell bonded to the lower shell whilst bolted down flat to the chassis. Anyhow, i also wanted to look at the engine and exhaust manifold access issues and see if i could create more clearance whilst in the process of modifying the footwells and bulkhead. I decided to keep the battery in a secure battery box down in the passenger footwell but move the fusebox out somewhere more sensible. On the drivers side i still cannot decide whether to stick with a standard pedal box arrangement or go for a floor mounted box similar to a T car. The only real advantage of the floor mounted box being the increased engine bay room i could obtain above the drivers feet, handy for access to manifold bolts etc.

Will be stripping down the donor chimeara this week and see what condition everything is in, so i need to plough on and finish the bonding process and lift the tub...

[my250gt]

made a wooden former to ensure clearance for battery box and glassed up this new panel to go in passenger footwell. Once bonded into tub i will then thicken it up to required strength and flatten it off for paint. Obviously with it not being a reverse molding it will require more finishing but you get the basic idea, and hopefully the increased clearance for manifold access will be helpful and less heat transfer to the bodyshell.

When stripping the footwell carpets out of the tub and finding the carpet burnt from heat coming through the fibreglass I will be putting plenty of heat reflecting material on.

[Geoff38]

What are all the bits of tape with arrows on for ?

rgds
G