Restoring TVR Vixen S3 RDO I 06J

[Hansoplast]

Adrian@ said:

You will need that clearance for the screen seal and crash pad.
Adrian@

Thanx this makes it clear to me.
So no upgrade.

Makes it easier anyway.

Hans

[Hansoplast]

Some results of the hard work on the body.

Before


After


Now in the final stage of rubbing grade 800 and than to the painter for Silver Fox colour.

You can see the black mist where I have to scrub more. Still finding (some) pinholes


Inside engine cover matt but he fire wall and footwell bright so you can see the hard work on getting it right.

Hans

[Hansoplast]

The Vixen has a new paint coat.

First pics still in the paintshop do no good to the endresult.

Happy with the result of my hours/days of rubbing and the color paint.

[Hansoplast]

All the brightwork needed polishing.
Had to find out what is the best way.

By hand all the dirt taken from the parts and then polishing with a cloth wheel.
Even that work needs a lot of experience before the result is fine.

just 2 pics (before and after) but most of you will regonize it.

[Hansoplast]

I start with the interior and one of the items is the door paneling.
I took the vinyl from the panel and found the "insulation" underneath. Is is foam with a type of cloth on top of it.
Because it came loose from the recess (pocket) area off the door the moulding was hardly visible.
This layer was also cut but I wonder why?



Has anybody an advice in;
- how to get the glue from the card? Or can I leave it on? It is in some areas a lot of material!!!
- do you need the foam layer? Or can I glue it directly on?
- I see a lot of interiors with screwed door card. Is this for easy fixing or any other good reason?

Thanx for helping.
Hans

[Hansoplast]

Hello,

I do not get many reactions/advices on behave on the interior.

But try again for information on the wiring of the interior light and reversing/reg.plate light.

I have the right colored wires to the lights but do not know how to connect.
The reversing light has a connector for the bigger bulb being the reverse light so .
Internal the 2 smaller bulbs for reg. plate lights are connected to each other.
Now the question where to connect earthing GB wire and feed R wire.

And interior light has GY and GW and NY wires. But where to connect to?.

Should all be easy.

[Hansoplast]

Missed the picture off reverse light.

[Hansoplast]

Oke I did not get any reaction on my request for info for the lights but got them working after some fiddling.

At this moment the major works is the interior.
Chose the color blue i stead of the traditional black.
The seats are back from the upholsterer and looks great.


Doing all the interior works my self it takes a lot of time searching the right details and technical solutions.
Pics of the interiors on PH helps. Also the youtube film of Paul Custom.

For the ceiling a lot of cutting in situ is required. But a wrong cut can not be rectified
First trial fitting made clear that the both is oversized so trimming can start.
I chose a grey color.


Under the ceiling I have glued anti-reading plates to the body. I also did that in the petrol tank area and in the doors.



I see the end of the restoration tunnel but do not know when .

Hans

[Hansoplast]

Hi Andy,

Thanx for your reaction.
Outside the car is a new fresh coat of Silver Fox, so blue is a nice contrast.

Your remaks on the ceiling I do understand. The standard glued plate fall from the ceiling already so I use another "better" glue.
But are now hesitating on this!!!
Another decision to be made.
I think (not too long) I go for the save side.

Hans

smithy63 said:

Hi Hans,
Just keep on going its worth it in the end.
A blue interior will be interesting, what colour is the exterior going to be?
From personal experience I wouldnt put "anti-reading" matting on the ceiling, sometime in the future I,m sure you will find they have come unstuck and dropped onto the roof lining spoiling your hard work. It gets very hot on the roof and interior in summer sunlight.
Just my opinion,

Andy

[Hansoplast]

Hi Moto,

It's original Volvo type of vinyl. At least that's how the supplier called it.
Happy we found this.
In the flesh it looks even better bleu(ish).
All the other final has nearly the same color.

Hans

Moto said:

Hans, those seats look fab. And great to see the original weave look vinyl being used.

Moto

[Hansoplast]

Hi Moto,

It's original Volvo type of vinyl. At least that's how the supplier called it.
Happy we found this.
In the flesh it looks even better bleu(ish).
All the other final has nearly the same color.

Hans

Moto said:

Hans, those seats look fab. And great to see the original weave look vinyl being used.

Moto

[Hansoplast]

Hello,

Simple question that came up while preparing position of sliders chairs.

It looks as if the seats are R and L models. The backrest tends to point side ways.
Is that so?
And what is best to get the right position behind the wheel?

The pics do not tell the story clearly.

[Hansoplast]

Before I send the wheels to the painter I have prepped them.
Just stupid polishing the kerb marks but looks oke now.
Will be painted RAL 5011.
Hans

Before;



After;

[Hansoplast]

And had some new track bars made.
The original looked shot (threads).
Took me a while before I found a firm in Holland to do the job.
Was only 6 miles from home.



And took care of some shining bits.



Hans

[Hansoplast]

Got my wheels back from the painter.

Looking great to me.

Color 5011.

[Hansoplast]

Put some shining bits on the car.
Wilwood pedalbox, had to move the catch for it.




Fitted new shocks from AV, replacing the old tire pumps.





Made an additional dash, with power cut off + indicator and overrider switch + indicator for fan.

Coming to an end ( he said!!!!)

Hans

[Hansoplast]

Adrian,

I think the previous owner made them to fit.
After some fiddling on pivot points and locks (2 or 3 days) I got the front sitting well and opening /closing perfect.
Have to do it again after shifting the locks because of pedal box. Hopes it does not take that long again.

But if I want the correct smaller item, from what source are they?

Hans

[Hansoplast]

After house move ( 2 in a year) and building a new garage, I restarted working on the Vixen.

Cleaned and polished the door frames.
Took the quarter glass out for new rubbers. Lot of debris come out.

For the sliding window I want to put a weather/water stop profile on the outside of the horizontal bar that rests on the door skin.
In this profile there are 4 holes for fixing the the profile I assume. (picture 2)
But on the inside horizontale bar, to which the capping will be fixed, there are 2 holes positions to the front. (picture 1)

I made some pics to make it more clear.

Any help for the detailing here? Pictures when possible would be fine.

Hans.

[Hansoplast]

chris52 said:

This is a job that I have just finished. I ended up just using a high strength contact adhesive to glue the weather strips on both sides. They were originally riveted on or least mine were.
hope that helps a bit.
Chris

Edited by chris52 on Monday 21st March 19:27

Hi Chris,
Nice shining result, my goal too.

But in detail, did you put the weather strip on the inside of the same type as outside? And the capping covering the strip?
I was thinking of putting a velvet strip on the inside as is on Triumph TR 250.
But I was curious why only 2 holes in front as mentioned earlier. Perhaps some one else knows.

Hans

[Hansoplast]

Hi there,



I want to register my car in Holland.
Unclear to me and possibly the customs too, is whether the O in RDO is a letter or number??
The same with the second O ????
And the I too ????

R = letter
D = letter
O = ???
I = ???
O = ???
6 = number
J = letter


Can you guys help me out?
Or is there a register from DVLA making this clear?

Hans