My V8 powered TVR Vixen

[Sonus]

prideaux said:

I am not sure where he is putting it the engine is high enough as it is
A

The blower won't make it any higher than it already is. Maybe even a tad lower. New gearbox and bellhousing has been delivered at my machinist so should be able to level the engine and gearbox better once that goes in.

I'm looking for a Eaton M90 from a early Thunderbird SC. This should give me the same performance as the Sprintex. It will draw mixture through a large Weber or Dellorto. No intercooling so will need to keep the boost at or below 9 psi.

[Sonus]

ivanhoew said:

in case it helps , i once repaired a aston martin db7 by buying a secondhand thunderbird supercharger from america ,then making a good one out of the two of them ,the old one was scratched in the case . i think the tbird one cost about 235 pounds .


eg..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eaton-M90-Supercharger-bui...



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eaton-M90-Supercharger-bui...


isn't a sprintex a screw type of supercharger ? if so it will be more efficient than the eaton ,and make more bhp per lb of boost.




robert.

Edited by ivanhoew on Friday 31st October 19:32

Shhh.... I want those for myself
And yes you are right about the sprintex being a screw type.

[Sonus]

prideaux said:

Sonus said:

The blower won't make it any higher than it already is. Maybe even a tad lower. New gearbox and bellhousing has been delivered at my machinist so should be able to level the engine and gearbox better once that goes in.

I'm looking for a Eaton M90 from a early Thunderbird SC. This should give me the same performance as the Sprintex. It will draw mixture through a large Weber or Dellorto. No intercooling so will need to keep the boost at or below 9 psi.

Sounds cool sorry I have not had a chance to measure the items you wanted measured its been manic here with work the new company is eating into play time a little to much but that will change in time I hope
A

No worries Andrew when ever you've got the time is fine.

[Sonus]

So the supercharger plans are firmly placed on the shelf and the gearbox swap is well under way.

I've removed the old Zodiac(?) gearbox and started measuring up the differences between this and the new (used) T5 that came out of a Chimaera or Groffith 500. I've adapted the bellhousing to the T5 box and it has then ended up being only 40mm longer than the old box. In addition the new box is some 30mm lower than the old aiding fitment. The gearbox mount is 105mm further back so I need to make an offset adapter mount. Luckily the input shaft diameter is 15mm on both boxes!
The shifter will move 85mm forward which is really welcome. Since the prop yoke was 45mm clear of the old box I might get away with changing the yoke for one that fits the new box. However the prop is all wrong since te U-jpints haven't been welded on 90 degrees out of phase. This could possibly explain the vibrations I have had during acceleration and engien braking.

[Sonus]

Slow M said:

How do the input shaft lengths compare?

Best regards,
Bernard.

Just a few mm difference

I'm wondering when my luck is going to run out with this swap

[Sonus]

Some random picures

[Sonus]

Thanks Hansoplast

It looks like. I had a brain fart about the u-joints

[Sonus]

the other tim said:

What bellhousing did you use? Also how are you going to drive the speedo? Afaik if it's like my t5 there is a blank in the speedo drive hole (i think the Griff speedo was sensor driven from the diff) and there is worm gear on the tailshaft but i have failed miserably to track down a drive!! Any suggestions gratefully received.

Bellhousing is a stock Borg Warner 35 Auto (often found behind these Daimler engines) with an adapter plate sandwiched in between it and the T5.

I have been looking for a while for a speedo drive to fit the 1-1/16" hole. My current thinking is to drill the blanking plug to take a TH350 speedo drive adapter and the TH350 drive gear. I've bought an adapter, but I am unsure if there is anything that will hold the drive gear from being pulled into the tail housing when the rotation of the worm gear pulls the drive gear inwards.

[Sonus]

the other tim said:

A 2wd Cosworth Sierra one should fit (same g/box) although finding one is another matter, then there's the price on the auction site!!!!!
It's a very common box in the States although i'm not sure if many had mechanical drives.

So the Cosworth ones are 1-1/16"?

[Sonus]

Dollyman1850 said:

Have you changed the spigot shaft solid bush for a bearing Sonus?
N

No it is a bronze bushing

[Sonus]

Dollyman1850 said:

It needs to run with a needle bearing..
Taking the old bush out is often fun but best way is to inject grease behind bush then use a turned shaft which is a close fit in the bush. Hit the end of the shaft with a hammer and the grease will usually push the bush out from the rear.

N.

Why doesn't a bronze bushing suffice?

[Sonus]

the other tim said:

Sorry no definive answer as yet.
Is the th350 drive ally or mild steel?

Alloy I believe

[Sonus]

longshot said:

Great looking car with a sweet engine.

Did you have a yellow Europa one upon a time?

No I've never had a Europa, but I did consider a yellow one when I bought the Vixen

[Sonus]

Okay so my luck ran out today

Turns out that the flywheel ring gear has a smaller diameter than the auto torque converter making the starter miss the ring gear when I use the stock Daimler engine plate I just bought of Ebay.co.uk



So I offered up the custom engine plate to the Daimler auto bellhousing



So I have a two options to solve this;

1. Make a new engineplate that is a bd of the old and stock version and cut the auto bellhousing so that the starter can be moved into the correct position to be able to engage the ring gear.

2. Ditch the heavy daimler bellhousing for a lighter aluminum T5 bellhousing and make a new engine back plate.

[Sonus]

the other tim said:

Or modify something like this http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-ford-ess... as long as the pinion and flywheel match

Already got one for an MGB, but it has the wrong number of teeth on the pinion. It needs to be 10 teeth and the MGB is 9 teeth. Also the MGB is approx 29mm in diameter and the current is 40mm. It is however a Lucas 418G replacement so will look into having the pinion changed for a 10 toothed one.

[Sonus]

longshot said:

Ah, sorry, I must be thinking of someone else.

He was from Denmark as well you see, shared a garage with a few other people like you used to and seemed to have a similar taste in cars.
IIRC he had a very powerful Lotus 7 type car for a while, bought a yellow Europa and considered a V8 powered Austin Healey at one point.

I wouldn't mind having those cars
And I am of Danish heritage so not far off

[Sonus]

Slow M said:

hat is the custom engine plate intended for?

Best regards,
Bernard.

It was used to fit the Ford Zephyr 4-speed box to the Daimler V8

[Sonus]

Dollyman1850 said:

Would it not be better to source a Daimler SP250 flywheel and bell housing or a manual Daimler / Jaguar unit ?
N.

They are quite rear and would need a rather expensive clutch set up.

I'll mill an new back plate in aluminum and make a notch in the Daimler bellhousing.

Also looking into having a 10-toothed pinion installed on the gear reduction starter I have left over from my MGB (9-teeth).

[Sonus]

So the custom engine back plate made to fit the Zephyr gearbox to the Daimler V8 is 1/2" steel. The original Daimler is 1/4" steel. What should my new one be? 1/4" steel or 1/4" aluminium or thicker aluminum? Here's a wooden mock up I did today in 1/2" plywood

Edited by Sonus on Sunday 22 February 17:40

[Sonus]

Slow M said:

The thickness should be relative to the transmission input shaft length. The bronze bushing or needle roller bearing will live longer with full engagement. 1/4" could make a big difference, if you don't have enough.

Best regards,
Bernard.

At 1/4" I have full support for the input shaft which is some 25mm. By going 1/2" i reduce that to approx 19mm.

I think the best is to do it in 1/4" aluminum. There is only one starter bolt that will then only be fixed to the aluminum plate and I can thread lock that in place from the backside (inside bellhousing). The risk is of course that It might snap and the bolt get tangled up in the clutch, but I think that i s a small risk(?).