My V8 powered TVR Vixen
Discussion
Sonus said:
Why doesn't a bronze bushing suffice?
Oil Soaked Bronze is possibly ~OK. It depends how flat and true your adaptor plates are, how close a tolerance your input shaft to the bush is and also whether or not the input shaft is hardened. You can get issues of heat related pick up and seizure on Brass, especially if holding the clutch for long periods but Phosphor bronze or oilite may well be OK.as a rule of thumb whenever changing from auto to manuals I have generally with ford boxes also changed from a bronze bush to a needle roller bearing. You may not have any issues at all but a T5 is generally specified with a needle roller bearing. You should also carefully measure to ensure that the tapered part of the input shaft doesn't bottom out on whichever bearing you settle on.
On the other hand cheap needle rollers aren't as long lasting as some phosphor bronze ones..you takes your choice…..
N.
Okay so my luck ran out today 
Turns out that the flywheel ring gear has a smaller diameter than the auto torque converter making the starter miss the ring gear when I use the stock Daimler engine plate I just bought of Ebay.co.uk
So I offered up the custom engine plate to the Daimler auto bellhousing
So I have a two options to solve this;
1. Make a new engineplate that is a b
d of the old and stock version and cut the auto bellhousing so that the starter can be moved into the correct position to be able to engage the ring gear.
2. Ditch the heavy daimler bellhousing for a lighter aluminum T5 bellhousing and make a new engine back plate.
Turns out that the flywheel ring gear has a smaller diameter than the auto torque converter making the starter miss the ring gear when I use the stock Daimler engine plate I just bought of Ebay.co.uk
So I offered up the custom engine plate to the Daimler auto bellhousing
So I have a two options to solve this;
1. Make a new engineplate that is a b
d of the old and stock version and cut the auto bellhousing so that the starter can be moved into the correct position to be able to engage the ring gear.2. Ditch the heavy daimler bellhousing for a lighter aluminum T5 bellhousing and make a new engine back plate.
Or modify something like this http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-ford-ess... as long as the pinion and flywheel match
the other tim said:
Or modify something like this http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-ford-ess... as long as the pinion and flywheel match
Already got one for an MGB, but it has the wrong number of teeth on the pinion. It needs to be 10 teeth and the MGB is 9 teeth. Also the MGB is approx 29mm in diameter and the current is 40mm. It is however a Lucas 418G replacement so will look into having the pinion changed for a 10 toothed one.Sonus said:
longshot said:
Great looking car with a sweet engine.
Did you have a yellow Europa one upon a time?
No I've never had a Europa, but I did consider a yellow one when I bought the VixenDid you have a yellow Europa one upon a time?
He was from Denmark as well you see, shared a garage with a few other people like you used to and seemed to have a similar taste in cars.
IIRC he had a very powerful Lotus 7 type car for a while, bought a yellow Europa and considered a V8 powered Austin Healey at one point.
longshot said:
Ah, sorry, I must be thinking of someone else.
He was from Denmark as well you see, shared a garage with a few other people like you used to and seemed to have a similar taste in cars.
IIRC he had a very powerful Lotus 7 type car for a while, bought a yellow Europa and considered a V8 powered Austin Healey at one point.
I wouldn't mind having those cars He was from Denmark as well you see, shared a garage with a few other people like you used to and seemed to have a similar taste in cars.
IIRC he had a very powerful Lotus 7 type car for a while, bought a yellow Europa and considered a V8 powered Austin Healey at one point.
And I am of Danish heritage so not far off
Sonus said:
Okay so my luck ran out today
Turns out that the flywheel ring gear has a smaller diameter than the auto torque converter making the starter miss the ring gear when I use the stock Daimler engine plate I just bought of Ebay.co.uk
So I offered up the custom engine plate to the Daimler auto bellhousing
So I have a two options to solve this;
1. Make a new engineplate that is a bd of the old and stock version and cut the auto bellhousing so that the starter can be moved into the correct position to be able to engage the ring gear.
2. Ditch the heavy daimler bellhousing for a lighter aluminum T5 bellhousing and make a new engine back plate.
What is the custom engine plate intended for? Turns out that the flywheel ring gear has a smaller diameter than the auto torque converter making the starter miss the ring gear when I use the stock Daimler engine plate I just bought of Ebay.co.uk
So I offered up the custom engine plate to the Daimler auto bellhousing
So I have a two options to solve this;
1. Make a new engineplate that is a b
d of the old and stock version and cut the auto bellhousing so that the starter can be moved into the correct position to be able to engage the ring gear.2. Ditch the heavy daimler bellhousing for a lighter aluminum T5 bellhousing and make a new engine back plate.
Best regards,
Bernard.
Dollyman1850 said:
Would it not be better to source a Daimler SP250 flywheel and bell housing or a manual Daimler / Jaguar unit ?
N.
They are quite rear and would need a rather expensive clutch set up.N.
I'll mill an new back plate in aluminum and make a notch in the Daimler bellhousing.
Also looking into having a 10-toothed pinion installed on the gear reduction starter I have left over from my MGB (9-teeth).
So the custom engine back plate made to fit the Zephyr gearbox to the Daimler V8 is 1/2" steel. The original Daimler is 1/4" steel. What should my new one be? 1/4" steel or 1/4" aluminium or thicker aluminum? Here's a wooden mock up I did today in 1/2" plywood
Edited by Sonus on Sunday 22 February 17:40
Slow M said:
The thickness should be relative to the transmission input shaft length. The bronze bushing or needle roller bearing will live longer with full engagement. 1/4" could make a big difference, if you don't have enough.
Best regards,
Bernard.
At 1/4" I have full support for the input shaft which is some 25mm. By going 1/2" i reduce that to approx 19mm.Best regards,
Bernard.
I think the best is to do it in 1/4" aluminum. There is only one starter bolt that will then only be fixed to the aluminum plate and I can thread lock that in place from the backside (inside bellhousing). The risk is of course that It might snap and the bolt get tangled up in the clutch, but I think that i s a small risk(?).
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff