M Series Switch panel

[prideaux]

Just wondering if any of you have been creative and come up with a solution to having to remove the center tunnel complete in order to get at the wiring at the front this seems a real pain and would make sense to adapt that small panel so it can be removed on its own.
if anyone has done anything that works for you i would appreciate some pictures please
Andrew

[madsvlund]

Hi Andrew

Not a problem in the post 76 models :-)

You can remove the panel, and by removing the tunnel cover, you can get easy access to all the wires

[prideaux]

Thanks Mads
What I really want is to be able to be able to remove the switch panel without moving anything else I had thought of just taking the Tunnel top off again and removing the bolts that hold it in and finding some way of making it clip in without anything visible or having two small screws either side that way any issues you can pop the panel off and everything is accessible without taking half the dash apart!
A

[Slow M]

Andrew,

My 74/75 (3428TM) has a separate switch panel. The top/front is under the dash. There are two adjustable brackets mounted to the tow of the transmission tunnel, onto which it mounts. Construction was identical to the dash, with a veneered piece of plywood set in an upholstered fiberglass surround.

I don't believe I have any pictures.

Best,
B.

[DavidY]

Just how often do you anticipate removing this panel for maintenance. If you overhaul it properly, make decent connections, ensure all bulbs are good, then it shouldn't need to come out for years. I reckon that you are just making work for yourself!!!

[prideaux]

DavidY said:

Just how often do you anticipate removing this panel for maintenance. If you overhaul it properly, make decent connections, ensure all bulbs are good, then it shouldn't need to come out for years. I reckon that you are just making work for yourself!!!

Your Right David
If it was mine to keep i would agree however because it going to Ireland and my Brother is not really hands on i want it to at least be able to get at easily it does have to come of again as there is a problem at the moment that has not been addressed so while it is off i was thinking of making it easier for future maintenance
It just seems a crazy design you have the center console off and you sort out the wiring which there is a lot of and then its all tied up with tie wraps to keep it tidy then you have to wrestle the center console back on over the handbrake and gear lever without the wires catching on them and knocking them off which i have done several times
Hence even for myself i would prefer to be able to pop the whole switch panel out to gain access to that bunch of wires and the rear of the switches.
Plus peace of mind knowing should there be a problem it not a case of taking the whole thing apart again
A

Edited by prideaux on Thursday 24th April 09:34

[The Surveyor]

Slow M said:

Andrew,

My 74/75 (3428TM) has a separate switch panel. The top/front is under the dash. There are two adjustable brackets mounted to the tow of the transmission tunnel, onto which it mounts. Construction was identical to the dash, with a veneered piece of plywood set in an upholstered fiberglass surround.

I don't believe I have any pictures.

Best,
B.

Do you mean this type:-



From my very long-term 1976 project 3000M.

Paul

[GadgeS3C]

Andrew, it's on my list to modify our M with a (easily) removal panel. I like to be able to access things as easily as possible and try and modify to achieve this - without making it look obvious. I also hate exposed screw heads so it has to be a "hidden" solution.

Not likely to happen in the short term though as have several other things to do including identifying and sourcing some nicer switches for the panel. Ours are a bit kit car aftermarket.

So I'll await your solution!

[griff 200]

If no screws are to be visible you could try magnets as is my number plate !!! Or Velcro or both????

[GadgeS3C]

griff 200 said:

If no screws are to be visible you could try magnets as is my number plate !!! Or Velcro or both????

Both on my list of possibles!

[Slow M]

The Surveyor said:

Do you mean this type:-
[ . . . ]
Paul

Exactly.

Best,
B.

[prideaux]

Hi Guys
Interesting that others are thinking the same i have not ruled out one screw either side but only as a last resort in many ways Richards idea of Magnets or Velcro is an option and i had already thought i might try however until i get it out and disconnected from the center console and have a good look i cant really say for sure it all depends on what thickness there is to play with in order to conceal them same goes for velcro as i would need to cut back the trim without effecting its integrity to recess the velcro otherwise there would be a gap round the edge
The other method i had thought of as well was to use a roller ball mine door clip recessed into a small timber block either side and another block on the edge with the receivers
I really thought someone would have done something creative already that they would have shared as this is an annoying problem that has existed for years
Will keep you posted with my attempts just dont laugh when i do

Will remember

T TIE CLIPS
V Vecro
R Resin

A

[GadgeS3C]

I'd thought about those door clips too. If the switch panel was steel and the clips not too strong, you might be able to use a strong magnet as a removal tool.

That would avoid needing an edge to get a lever into.

I'm off back to sorting windows and suspension set up before I start another job!

[prideaux]

I was given another idea tonight but wont reveal it until i look and see how it would work but sounds simple and may well be a answer
A

[Cerberus90]

Something I've been meaning to ask.

The switches, they're illuminated aren't they? Just like they are in my mini, the light up when you turn them on.
(Although we took apart the Hazard switch to try and fix, and found no bulb in there, so that confused me).

Are the little spades on the sides of the switch bodies for earths (small loops from one switch to the next)?
I'd tried to determine what was what with the multi-meter but the spades didn't seem to have any continuity with anything even each other from what I remember.