Vixen electrics

Vixen electrics

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Discussion

missingbadly999

Original Poster:

348 posts

116 months

Friday 19th September 2014
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If ignition light comes on with starting and becomes brighter with revs but the ammeter shows charging what does that mean? All alternator wiring seems OK. The rev counter packed up some time ago. My plan is to have the dash off and have a rummage.
Offers of advice or consolation invited.

ATE399J

729 posts

238 months

Friday 19th September 2014
quotequote all
I would suspect the alternator. There should be two thick and one thin wire coming from the alternator, the thin one should go to the ignition light.

You seem to be re-commissioning, l would recomment the Haynes Auto electrician book

http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Haynes-Electrical-Syst...

It might help.

griff 200

509 posts

194 months

Friday 19th September 2014
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Before you go under the dash Remove small wire from alternator and using a small bulb or test light take a positive feed to the bulb then to the alt with not running bulb should light with it running light off as the alternator should remove the earth for the bulb. Sounds like alt as still can charge with faulty light circuit. Hope that helps. Richard

Adrian@

4,314 posts

283 months

Friday 19th September 2014
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Is there a miss match of information here...Alternator with ammeter.
Adrian@
PS what car is being worked on? which version of the rev counter ? (RVC or RV1) has it been converted to electronic ignition? (as that will screw up a RV1)

Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 19th September 20:18

RCK974X

2,521 posts

150 months

Friday 19th September 2014
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Not arguing with any of above, but weird things like this can be caused by dodgy earth returns, and the TVRs suffer a LOT from this kind of thing, being GRP. Check that there is no voltage between the dash earth wire (use the back of one of the gauges) and the engine block when car is running.

missingbadly999

Original Poster:

348 posts

116 months

Friday 19th September 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the help lads I'll let you know how I get on.....

missingbadly999

Original Poster:

348 posts

116 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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A mate came over and I helped him out with some bulding stuff - he looked at the Vixen and had exactly the right alternator lying around so I tried it and bingo housey housey all is OK with the world, we have charging and the right light at the right time. All very odd but sorted. Going to fit another rev counter this evening and see if the good lord is still shining on me for once.

ATE399J

729 posts

238 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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Result smile
Well done.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

150 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
quotequote all
As Adrian said above - remember that there are different types of tachos, in the way they are triggered.

Info -

The oldest designed ones were current triggered, and were wired in series with the coil. This type will NOT work if you have an ignition amplifier, contactless conversion etc. This type were in Cortina Mk1 and Triumph saloon Mk1 and that sort of era. They typically had a little wire loop on the back of the tacho (not all of them though)

The later designs used a voltage trigger, which should work on pretty much everything - it expects a short 12v pulse and so can be wired simply to the +ve on the coil (the 'contacts' equivalent) some of the ignition amplifiers for contactless systems have a separate tacho connection.

Some of the Bosch tachos require a high voltage pulse, and do not always work with some amplifiers, but I've only seen those a couple of times....