Discussion
I thought i would adjust my handbrake ready for the French mot and i had a very nice surprise.
As the title the rightside UJ is shot away
I can also feel some play in the Wheel bearing. Luckily the UJ has circlips so can be replaced but it looks like i need to remove the drive shaft from the suspension housing.
Can i remove driveshaft and leave suspension in place.
I imagine the rear bearings are in pairs with a spacer between them to preload correctly.
I think the bearings are TR6 and UJ TR6 could someone be so kind confirm please.
Do UJ's with grease nipples exist.
Sorry about all the silly questions boys
Alan
As the title the rightside UJ is shot away
I can also feel some play in the Wheel bearing. Luckily the UJ has circlips so can be replaced but it looks like i need to remove the drive shaft from the suspension housing.
Can i remove driveshaft and leave suspension in place.
I imagine the rear bearings are in pairs with a spacer between them to preload correctly.
I think the bearings are TR6 and UJ TR6 could someone be so kind confirm please.
Do UJ's with grease nipples exist.
Sorry about all the silly questions boys
Alan
Hi Alan,
The rightside UJ is shot
inner or outer ?
I can also feel some play in the Wheel bearing. Luckily the UJ has circlips so can be replaced
Yes, but the are a PITA......
Can i remove driveshaft and leave suspension in place.
Yes, remove brake drum, undo (6 ?) bolts and protract outer drive-shaft half (if its the outer, only...)
I imagine the rear bearings are in pairs with a spacer between them to preload correctly.
yes, but they need to be pressed out...
I think the bearings are TR6 and UJ TR6 could someone be so kind confirm please.
Think so, yes
Do UJ's with grease nipples exist.
Yes, hardy spicer with g/nipples
You might wanna call Adrian, he stocks all the above
regards,
Frank
The rightside UJ is shot
inner or outer ?
I can also feel some play in the Wheel bearing. Luckily the UJ has circlips so can be replaced
Yes, but the are a PITA......
Can i remove driveshaft and leave suspension in place.
Yes, remove brake drum, undo (6 ?) bolts and protract outer drive-shaft half (if its the outer, only...)
I imagine the rear bearings are in pairs with a spacer between them to preload correctly.
yes, but they need to be pressed out...
I think the bearings are TR6 and UJ TR6 could someone be so kind confirm please.
Think so, yes
Do UJ's with grease nipples exist.
Yes, hardy spicer with g/nipples
You might wanna call Adrian, he stocks all the above
regards,
Frank
hi Frank,
thanks it's the outer uj next to suspension housing.
It sounds like you have been there and done this job.
Maybe it's difficult to pull apart, something like removing the rear hubs on my Lotus Elan driveshafts, very tight.
Perhaps some heat can help.
It could be possible to remove complet housing with driveshaft together as an assembled unit. Replace only UJ.
Alan
thanks it's the outer uj next to suspension housing.
It sounds like you have been there and done this job.
Maybe it's difficult to pull apart, something like removing the rear hubs on my Lotus Elan driveshafts, very tight.
Perhaps some heat can help.
It could be possible to remove complet housing with driveshaft together as an assembled unit. Replace only UJ.
Alan
Edited by plasticpig72 on Tuesday 18th November 16:24
Edited by plasticpig72 on Tuesday 18th November 16:25
Hi Alan,
Yes, mine were changed for new (all six of them...)
The outer part of the shaft comes out as described above (the inner/outer slide into each other, with a slot, one position only)
If the inner one isn't at fault, you can leave it as is to the diff (but check if all is ok, both UJ and diff (....))
the outer one them comes out through the upright. (in re-assembling, do not torque em up to much !)
Once the whole shebang is out, you want to clean/degrease everything and on re-assembly lube the sliding connection with graphite grease
The bearing really needs to be pressed out, heating it will distort the carrier. (new bearings need 'red' high temp grease)
Removal of the UJ and installation of new is not difficult but you need to know what you are doing (learned the 'trick' from an old boy !)
have fun !
Frank
Yes, mine were changed for new (all six of them...)
The outer part of the shaft comes out as described above (the inner/outer slide into each other, with a slot, one position only)
If the inner one isn't at fault, you can leave it as is to the diff (but check if all is ok, both UJ and diff (....))
the outer one them comes out through the upright. (in re-assembling, do not torque em up to much !)
Once the whole shebang is out, you want to clean/degrease everything and on re-assembly lube the sliding connection with graphite grease
The bearing really needs to be pressed out, heating it will distort the carrier. (new bearings need 'red' high temp grease)
Removal of the UJ and installation of new is not difficult but you need to know what you are doing (learned the 'trick' from an old boy !)
have fun !
Frank
well done a man after my own heartwell thanks for all the info
thanks Adrian but i need time to learn. I have been working on Lotus Elans for the last 42 years.
many thanks GAjon,
super photos and each one is worth so many words
Alan
thanks Adrian but i need time to learn. I have been working on Lotus Elans for the last 42 years.
many thanks GAjon,
super photos and each one is worth so many words
Alan
Edited by plasticpig72 on Tuesday 18th November 19:32
Edited by plasticpig72 on Wednesday 19th November 09:00
The outer UJ is usually the first to go for some reason, probably the lack of boot protecting it from the elements, back in the 80's when my M was my daily drive it was an annual job changing UJs. I keep a couple of spare shafts, Triumph 2000 mk2, ready rebuilt to swop when needed. You will soon be a UJ expert running an M series, enjoy. Geoff
timelord said:
The outer UJ is usually the first to go for some reason, probably the lack of boot protecting it from the elements, back in the 80's when my M was my daily drive it was an annual job changing UJs. I keep a couple of spare shafts, Triumph 2000 mk2, ready rebuilt to swop when needed. You will soon be a UJ expert running an M series, enjoy. Geoff
Geoff the rear of a 1600M over-limits the UJ in full droop and IF you were to change the shocks then my advice would be to put a shorter shock on to stop this.Adrian@
well i've removed the driveshaft, very easy job. I didn't even remove the rear brake shoes.
The inner uj is o.k. but the outer uj was completely knackered. Even one of the needle bearing cups had several stress cracks and ready to fall apart. I just need to remove the hub on the driveshaft so i can replace the Wheel bearings. It's the same as on the rear hubs of my Lotus Elans so it will need a bit of gentle persuassion
I also found 4 bolts holding diff to cradle very loose
Alan
The inner uj is o.k. but the outer uj was completely knackered. Even one of the needle bearing cups had several stress cracks and ready to fall apart. I just need to remove the hub on the driveshaft so i can replace the Wheel bearings. It's the same as on the rear hubs of my Lotus Elans so it will need a bit of gentle persuassion
I also found 4 bolts holding diff to cradle very loose
Alan
plasticpig72 said:
well i've removed the driveshaft, very easy job. I didn't even remove the rear brake shoes.
The inner uj is o.k. but the outer uj was completely knackered. Even one of the needle bearing cups had several stress cracks and ready to fall apart. I just need to remove the hub on the driveshaft so i can replace the Wheel bearings. It's the same as on the rear hubs of my Lotus Elans so it will need a bit of gentle persuassion
I also found 4 bolts holding diff to cradle very loose
Alan
The inner uj is o.k. but the outer uj was completely knackered. Even one of the needle bearing cups had several stress cracks and ready to fall apart. I just need to remove the hub on the driveshaft so i can replace the Wheel bearings. It's the same as on the rear hubs of my Lotus Elans so it will need a bit of gentle persuassion
I also found 4 bolts holding diff to cradle very loose
Alan
I wish I could see what you are looking at when you are looking at a Lotus and seeing the same hub....IMHO you need to stop and look again.
Adrian@
Adrian,
the rear hubs on a Lotus Elan are located on the drive shaft with a key + taper the same as my TVR. Except the key on the TVR is a square key as oposed to a cylindrical key on the Lotus Elan. Also torqued to 110 lbs/ft approx or thats's to say very tight.
the rear hubs on a Lotus Elan are located on the drive shaft with a key + taper the same as my TVR. Except the key on the TVR is a square key as oposed to a cylindrical key on the Lotus Elan. Also torqued to 110 lbs/ft approx or thats's to say very tight.
Edited by plasticpig72 on Friday 21st November 18:42
Adrian@ said:
There is no torque setting, this is done with a dial indicator, OR IF you build these for a living LIKE ME...THEN it's years of experience!
Adrian@
with DTI .002" endfloat, no problem. I still have Tools like that from when i worked in the Aerospace Industry.
I will see about making a Beast to remove hub and make some plate spanners for the 2 1/16" nuts.
Alan
Adrian@
with DTI .002" endfloat, no problem. I still have Tools like that from when i worked in the Aerospace Industry.
I will see about making a Beast to remove hub and make some plate spanners for the 2 1/16" nuts.
Alan
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