TVR 3000ML Restoration
Discussion
bluezeeland said:
You could think of a new cam (Kent V63) and/or unleaded stage II heads
I went for alloy timing gear and rejetted the 38DGAS carb (along with a tune up of all) and got 168 bhp at the wheels
As it concerns an ML, its probably not to the taste of the 'original' police, but, as they say in Germany; F*ck 'em !
Frank
I dont think it makes much difference if the engine it upgraded as long as its not a different type and this was my intension but as funds are very quickly running low I needed a cheaper alternative so have managed to source a standard engine thats hopefully in good running order just to get me started, once I have the car finished I will start collecting parts to make a better performance engine. With this being an older M it has the TR6 diff does anyone know if these are ok with say 160-180 bhp?I went for alloy timing gear and rejetted the 38DGAS carb (along with a tune up of all) and got 168 bhp at the wheels
As it concerns an ML, its probably not to the taste of the 'original' police, but, as they say in Germany; F*ck 'em !
Frank
Chris
I would prefer to keep the TR6 diff I know they are no as robust as the Salisbury one but it is what the car came with out of the factory. I will get the diff rebuilt though it's booked into a local specialist along with the Vixen one just to be on the safe side. If Adrian's 210bhp turbo one could cope then I should be ok
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris
A bit further on got all the wishbones fitted and rear uprights
Also decided to buy myself a Zinc plating kit, its really annoying when all the time you spend making things look nice even if they cant be seen only to find them covered with surface rust the first time you get caught in the rain.
This is the last one I did.
Hopefully this will sort out the issue
It will also come in handy for a few other things so had a go at the bonnet catch I got the plate powder coated with the chassis but the catch mechanism was totally rusty
Before
After (the spring catch I didn't do its one I picked up from a friend)
Chris
Also decided to buy myself a Zinc plating kit, its really annoying when all the time you spend making things look nice even if they cant be seen only to find them covered with surface rust the first time you get caught in the rain.
This is the last one I did.
Hopefully this will sort out the issue
It will also come in handy for a few other things so had a go at the bonnet catch I got the plate powder coated with the chassis but the catch mechanism was totally rusty
Before
After (the spring catch I didn't do its one I picked up from a friend)
Chris
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zinc-plating-Electroplat...
Its this one from ebay pretty easy to use.
Chris
Its this one from ebay pretty easy to use.
Chris
Had a play with the plating kit today and had a go at an old Tvr Badge I had that was in pretty poor condition. Most of the plating had come of so the brass (I presume) had just oxidised and the badge looked pretty pants.
Fist job was to remove all the rest of the plating and buff it up ready for plating, I did this with a metal polishing attachment to my bench grinder. This didn't affect the enamel as its to hard. to be honest the badge looked great with brass/gold colour but this would soon tarnish and oxidise
the badge was then degreased and dipped in the acid pickle for a minute then popped into the plating tank. A quick buff up afterwards and I was really happy with the result.
Also did the drop links but this time used the yellow passivate which gives better corrosion resistance. Fist job was to remove all the paint and rust which I did with a wire wheel on the bench grinder then degreased, acid dip, 20 minutes in the plating tank and 30 seconds in the yellow passivate.
From this
To this
Chris
Fist job was to remove all the rest of the plating and buff it up ready for plating, I did this with a metal polishing attachment to my bench grinder. This didn't affect the enamel as its to hard. to be honest the badge looked great with brass/gold colour but this would soon tarnish and oxidise
the badge was then degreased and dipped in the acid pickle for a minute then popped into the plating tank. A quick buff up afterwards and I was really happy with the result.
Also did the drop links but this time used the yellow passivate which gives better corrosion resistance. Fist job was to remove all the paint and rust which I did with a wire wheel on the bench grinder then degreased, acid dip, 20 minutes in the plating tank and 30 seconds in the yellow passivate.
From this
To this
Chris
Edited by chris52 on Saturday 21st March 18:27
Body is now painted and hopefully I should get it back sometime next week after its been flatted and buffed I can then get the Decals done on the sills and the roof re-trimmed in black vinyl a job that I am looking forward to as I have never done it before. Would appreciate any tips from anyone who has done it before.
Engine is also pretty much built up and will hopefully be fitting it tomorrow, front timing cover is still to be fully fitted but I'm waiting on an alloy timing gear.
Chris
Engine is also pretty much built up and will hopefully be fitting it tomorrow, front timing cover is still to be fully fitted but I'm waiting on an alloy timing gear.
Chris
Edited by chris52 on Sunday 16th August 21:40
Yes they are 15" not sure what make ,I bought these for the Vixen and the original Wolfrace slot mags will be going back on it when I get chance to refurbish them. I actually need a spare wolfrace as I only have 4 so if anyone has one kicking about I would be happy to buy it from you.
Chris
Chris
Body now back from the painters and up in the air ready to roll the refurbished chassis under after a few jobs.
With the car up in the air you can see the extra sound proofing they fitted to the ML in the transmission tunnel which has survived really well.
Next is the 3000ML decals
Paint masks in place
Masked up and painted
Result
Chris
With the car up in the air you can see the extra sound proofing they fitted to the ML in the transmission tunnel which has survived really well.
Next is the 3000ML decals
Paint masks in place
Masked up and painted
Result
Chris
Edited by chris52 on Sunday 16th August 21:42
Cheers the car had the 3000m on when I got it so had a company replicate them with the addition of the L. Must say I am chuffed with how the have come out.
Plating
Bonnet catches. Door catches and latch, 3 badges, drop links, various nuts and bolts handbrake lever in rear hub, heater control valve, distributor vacuum advance and clips and a few other bits that I cant remember at the mo.
chris
Plating
Bonnet catches. Door catches and latch, 3 badges, drop links, various nuts and bolts handbrake lever in rear hub, heater control valve, distributor vacuum advance and clips and a few other bits that I cant remember at the mo.
chris
Edited by chris52 on Saturday 25th April 19:11
A full day and all I got done was to refit the one door with all its internals latches and catches etc. An easy job that should have taken an hour or so the biggest task was refitting the electric window internals as the lower window channels had to be modified so ended up taking back to bits several times before I could get it working properly. At least I now know what to do whan it comes to the other side so that should be a lot quicker.
Would appreciate your opinions please on the wheels
First up are the original Wolfrace slot mags
next up a set of Minilite style wheels
The Minilite wheels are the wrong offset so will need longer wheel studs and a 1/2" spacer the wolfrace will need new tyres.
Cheers Chris
Would appreciate your opinions please on the wheels
First up are the original Wolfrace slot mags
next up a set of Minilite style wheels
The Minilite wheels are the wrong offset so will need longer wheel studs and a 1/2" spacer the wolfrace will need new tyres.
Cheers Chris
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