Up For Grabs Again

[Dollyman1850]

Before you do anything. Blast the chassis.
N.

[davidstacey42]

Luckily I have a blaster in the next village. Already spotted a corroded bit of tube in the diff cage area that will need some weldology. Sourced engine and box yesterday in Essex so now have most of the ingredients. Brake and clutch master cyls missing; anyone know which they used?

[griff 200]

Its great to see it is going to be put back on the road well done. If you need any welding etc I'm not that far and have tube in the w/shop. Richard

[Warwick67]

davidstacey42 said:

Well I suppose I'd better own up - I bought it last week and it was delivered last night. Most of it's there except the engine and box but those are relatively easy to source. Chassis needs a blast and paint, the body is basically sound; couple of cracks to repair but that's the beauty of fibreglass, no tiresome welding! Wish me luck!

David, congratulations! I bought the last "project" off Amos a couple of months ago, intention to build for hill climbing, when ive finished putting my Cerbera back together. Be interesting to see how you get on too. Im in Hitchin so not miles from you, if you ever need a hand give me a shout.
pic of my project...

[Mr Tiger]

davidstacey42 said:

Luckily I have a blaster in the next village. Already spotted a corroded bit of tube in the diff cage area that will need some weldology. Sourced engine and box yesterday in Essex so now have most of the ingredients. Brake and clutch master cyls missing; anyone know which they used?

Well done on sourcing an engine and gearbox. I thought they would be not so easy to find these days.

The brake master cyl is TR6 as far as I know - hopefully someone will confirm. I don't know what the clutch m/cylinder is out of sorry.

Did you get an overdrive box by the way?

Chris

[davidstacey42]

Thanks Richard, Warwick and Chris, I may well take up the offers of assistance. Yes, it's a J - Type o/d box and comes with its original 2.5 L partner in crime. Gearbox fully reconditioned but engine untouched..

David

[Dollyman1850]

davidstacey42 said:

Thanks Richard, Warwick and Chris, I may well take up the offers of assistance. Yes, it's a J - Type o/d box and comes with its original 2.5 L partner in crime. Gearbox fully reconditioned but engine untouched..

David

1st job which dictates level re-build is checking for crank fore and aft thrust
N.

[davidstacey42]

Thanks Richard, Warwick and Chris, I may well take up the offers of assistance. Yes, it's a J - Type o/d box and comes with its original 2.5 L partner in crime. Gearbox fully reconditioned but engine untouched..

David

[Slow M]

Congratulations!

A-type can handle greater torque, IIRC.

Best,
B

[Hansoplast]

In my best knowledge, driving TR's for 17 years, it's the J-type or even better the Stag type, that are stronger.
But both need alterations, not necceasry with the A-type.
The gearbox cover needs 3 electrical connectors (2 ,3 and 4th gear).
The switch can be in the gearbox shifter from the MG B.

But all in IMHO.

Have fun.

Hans

[Slow M]

Hansoplast said:

In my best knowledge, driving TR's for 17 years, it's the J-type or even better the Stag type, that are stronger.
But both need alterations, not necceasry with the A-type.
The gearbox cover needs 3 electrical connectors (2 ,3 and 4th gear).
The switch can be in the gearbox shifter from the MG B.

But all in IMHO.

Have fun.

Hans

Hans,

The Stag, like the TR6, first had the option of an A-type Laycock OD, and later, a J-type.

Fact checking myself (as you should), I found the following:

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm said:

A second major difference is that the J type OD is much less robust. For example, the gear teeth are smaller and I assume will tolerate less force. The design of the hydraulics is also different in a way that subjects the gears to less force.

Best,
B.

[Slow M]

David,

What are you planning to use it for?

Best,
B.

[davidstacey42]

I'm planning to use it for fun really, no plans to race or anything like that. Found a few kinked tubes in the outriggers and a fatigue crack on the top tube above the engine mount so a little work required in that area. Having gone through the boxes of bits I find I'm lacking driveshafts and front hubs but everything else is there suspension-wise. The rear hubs appear to have been overhauled as there are brand new brake drums, slave cylinders etc. hopefully the bearings might have been replaced at the same time.

Edited by davidstacey42 on Sunday 28th December 09:10

[Hansoplast]

Best Bernard,

I guess all in this forum wants to deal their best knowledge but " history is no certanty for the future" (dutch saying).

In my circle of TR friends the J-type is what they are looking for. Possibly because of the price or the availability but also their reputation.

Reading on internet I found your info on the width of the death. I also found:
The overdrive on the 2e gear is of no use.
A third major difference (improvement) is that it is much easier to access the hydraulic components of the J type OD without removing it from the car.
A fourth major difference is that the J type has many less parts.

Hope all the shared info leads to a well restored and fast Vixen for David.

Hans

[Dollyman1850]

http://www.canleyclassics.com/gearbox-and-clutch/f...

Seems that this is the best way to future proof a classic….
Toyota conversions also available.
N.

[Slow M]

Hans,

I believe parts are more available, and less expensive, for the J-type, as well.

If the engine isn't being built for very high performance, the OD's max torque capacity becomes a moot point.

For ease of installation, A-type is easier, as the transmission mount is in the original location (was the car originally a 2500?). J-type will require a custom crossmember.

David,

It looks as though you've jumped in with both feet. Wishing you luck, and speed.

Best,
B.

[davidstacey42]

It is a 2500 and the guy who supplied the gearbox is able to furnish an adaptor for the mounting. Can anyone confirm the front uprights are Triumph Herald? The upper wishbones are one horseshoe-shaped tube with a threaded boss running athwartships, I'm guessing the upper ball joint is therefore a 'special' (not present in the boxes of bits). Also short of rear driveshafts, have read that they're from a 2000/2500 saloon?

Compliments of the season, David (discovering that most places are still shut for the holiday and therefore spending the day dismantling the dash and cleaning up those suspension parts that did make it into my garage).

[Dollyman1850]

Adrian Venn will supply you with your suspension parts.
N

[62GRANTIII]

I'd forget looking for one of those heavy underpowered (expensive to rebuild properly) tractor engines.
Save some brass, put in a mildly tuned xflo.
End up with a 750kg car which will be quicker,much more nimble & fun to drive !
Also those drum brake Herald front uprights are under much reduced load !
Cheers Ian

[Dollyman1850]

62GRANTIII said:

I'd forget looking for one of those heavy underpowered (expensive to rebuild properly) tractor engines.
Save some brass, put in a mildly tuned xflo.
End up with a 750kg car which will be quicker,much more nimble & fun to drive !
Also those drum brake Herald front uprights are under much reduced load !
Cheers Ian

But that won't be original
Happy x-mas Mr Bannister.

One of these is better than one of those light cast iron heavy breathing old crossflows…And cheaper.