Three 3000m restoration projects on eBay
Discussion
hoppo4.2 said:
As im still waiting for my new electronic ignition kit to turn up i decided to fix a few other bits today.
We now have a horn, wipers, washers,indicators,and all the other lights apart from the brake lights working.
Also fixed the heater blower cooling fan and heated rear screen.
Fingers crossed the parts will arrive tomorrow and i can get it going.
Good luck with the start upWe now have a horn, wipers, washers,indicators,and all the other lights apart from the brake lights working.
Also fixed the heater blower cooling fan and heated rear screen.
Fingers crossed the parts will arrive tomorrow and i can get it going.
chris
hoppo4.2 said:
So not had much time today but quickly slapped the new bits in place and it fires!!
But then dies wont rev or idle im guessing carb related? Ill have a look tomorrow.
Looks like theres some kind of crap auto choke thing that looks like its doung nothing.
Auto choke...it operates with a single full press to the throttle pedal, adjustment is a once a day setup from cold, that one press should close both the flaps and bring in the auto choke cam, which is adjustable for RPM high idle. On a 'standing' vehicle you will need a full water system, with water flow through the choke (check under the thermostat housing, AND on a 3000M only the heater system has a by-pass restrictor to force water through the heater matrix IF the system is plumbed correctly) and then after about 60 seconds you need to blip the pedal to bring off the full choke THEN after warming up another full throttle to bring the choke off fully ...it really is that simple.But then dies wont rev or idle im guessing carb related? Ill have a look tomorrow.
Looks like theres some kind of crap auto choke thing that looks like its doung nothing.
Adrian@
TDC is not on the scale ..the 'W' has a centre point of 10 degrees, with the highs being 8/12. Check the mechanical advance and vac advance...and Aldon Ignitor system limit out the mechanic advance, unless it has been modified.
Adrian@
IF it is all working correctly then I like to run 16 degrees (with the correct pilots jetting).
Adrian@
IF it is all working correctly then I like to run 16 degrees (with the correct pilots jetting).
The auto data book I have states that the top of the W is 12 Middle 10 and bottom 8
With the engine set just past the 12 mark it idles fine but will not drive under load it misses and has no power at all.
Lucky for me I marked where it was in the first place. With it back there it drives much better if a little flat feeling.
The problem is that in this position the strob light shows the timing mark a good 5 cm to the left of the marks on the crankcase.
I think that makes it a good few degrees off?
Is the distributor on a key way or is it splined to that it could have been put back in on the wrong tooth by somone. Making it appear that the timing is miles off when in fact it's correct.
With the engine set just past the 12 mark it idles fine but will not drive under load it misses and has no power at all.
Lucky for me I marked where it was in the first place. With it back there it drives much better if a little flat feeling.
The problem is that in this position the strob light shows the timing mark a good 5 cm to the left of the marks on the crankcase.
I think that makes it a good few degrees off?
Is the distributor on a key way or is it splined to that it could have been put back in on the wrong tooth by somone. Making it appear that the timing is miles off when in fact it's correct.
plasticpig72 said:
imho it's a pity the green one KNV 709P went to xx classics to be resold and not to a classic fan§§§§§§
Alan
Not so: Missed the private sale by about 10 minutes but have now secured it from AH.........so with a TVR classic fan and shortly appearing around the lanes of Staffs Alan
TC
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff