3000s bleeding brakes help
Discussion
thegamekeeper said:
Sometimes referred to as a Pressure Differential Warning Actuator of PDWA. It's avery nasty piece of Austin Allegro technology meant to detect a difference in brake pedal pressure between the front and rear brakes. if you have a TR6 brake master cylinder then you will have a PDWA, if you have a Ford Cortina master cylinder you wont have one.
They are usually seized up and don't work but if you have one there is a special procedure to bleed the brakes to prevent it closing off the front or back brakes when you open a bleed nipple and put your foot on the pedal..
And they look like this...They are usually seized up and don't work but if you have one there is a special procedure to bleed the brakes to prevent it closing off the front or back brakes when you open a bleed nipple and put your foot on the pedal..
Hi Steve, hope you are doing ok, great to see you back here again.
You are quite right these pdwa's are the invention of the devil, threw mine out 15 years ago!
bluezeeland said:
The reservoirs are hard to find, yes, but as I didn't need one, didn't really search....
Bleeding brakes isn't the most glorious of jobs, but those Willwoods are a pita (haven't got em, but a mate has)
I can see these becoming a problem in not many years from now. Most M, S and wedges need them and they are getting very very hard to find. They are also a component which get brittle and craze with age.Bleeding brakes isn't the most glorious of jobs, but those Willwoods are a pita (haven't got em, but a mate has)
Probably something to consider making in the future.. There are various land rover items which can also be made to work.
N.
There are apparently some misunderstandings about this valve, first off all you can remove it and reconnect the brake pipes, if you would like to keep it in the system take it apart and you will see that there is only a piston inside with some rubber O-rings, these O-rings are sold in kits by several Triumph parts suppliers, did rebuild several over the years. This valve operates a warning light on the dash by the time that this light comes on it is already to late and you will feel this straight away on the pedal pressure will be reduced quit a bit. Last tip never use silicone brake fluid in the older brake systems DOT3 or 4 is more than good enough and flush the system every three years that we you will keep the cylinder bores free from corrosion.
TVR by BVR said:
There are apparently some misunderstandings about this valve, first off all you can remove it and reconnect the brake pipes, if you would like to keep it in the system take it apart and you will see that there is only a piston inside with some rubber O-rings, these O-rings are sold in kits by several Triumph parts suppliers, did rebuild several over the years. This valve operates a warning light on the dash by the time that this light comes on it is already to late and you will feel this straight away on the pedal pressure will be reduced quit a bit. Last tip never use silicone brake fluid in the older brake systems DOT3 or 4 is more than good enough and flush the system every three years that we you will keep the cylinder bores free from corrosion.
Why do you say never to use Silicone brake fluid.When i bought both my TVRs they already had Silicoe brake fluid. The 1975 1600M with Silicone fluid had been standing the garage not used for about 10 years and the brakes still worked perfectly.
I'm not saying Silicone is better but imho i can't see the disadvantage for normal road use
Alan
The rubber seals will swell up quite a bit more with silicone brake fluid and what will happened then is a very hard brake pedal till you brake the resistance from the seals after that the cylinder in question will start to leak.
If you buy new cylinders from a respectable brand it will tell you in the instructions as well not to use this sort of brake fluid.
If you buy new cylinders from a respectable brand it will tell you in the instructions as well not to use this sort of brake fluid.
just to update on the brakes on my 3000S.
I have found that it's more difficult to bleed the brakes with the Wilwood Calipers and Silicone fluid.
Having said that the brakes work very well now with no problems.
To stop the squeeling i made grooves in the pads at an angle like the grooves on drilled and grooved disks. That's at an angle so the dust is pushed to the outside of the disks. That's 2 pads with grooves one direction and 2 pads in the other direction.
I have put double sided tape on the backs of the pads.
Result good brakes and no squeel
I hope the update helps someone
Alan
I have found that it's more difficult to bleed the brakes with the Wilwood Calipers and Silicone fluid.
Having said that the brakes work very well now with no problems.
To stop the squeeling i made grooves in the pads at an angle like the grooves on drilled and grooved disks. That's at an angle so the dust is pushed to the outside of the disks. That's 2 pads with grooves one direction and 2 pads in the other direction.
I have put double sided tape on the backs of the pads.
Result good brakes and no squeel
I hope the update helps someone
Alan
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