Is it OK to run a fan blade with electric fan??

[the other tim]

Electric fan behind the radiator makes sense plus on pre M cars there is so much room weather its a straight 4 or v8.

Whilst we are talking cooling has anyone tried a twin pass radiator particularly in a pre M?

Tim

[ATE399J]

In front or behind makes little difference; just make sure the fan is as close to the radiator as possible so all of the flow generated by the fan HAS to go through the radiator. One could argue that "push" is better than "pull" since the air will be cooler thus denser so the fan will move a greater mass flow but it's a small(ish) effect.
(Mine "pulls" and works fine)

[Moto]

I've sourced myself a thermostat cover pre-drilled 3/8" bsp for a thermostat switch. However I can't find anyone who supplies these. I can find suppliers for M14, M22 and 3/8" NPT, but not what I need. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thx

[ATE399J]

Moto said:

I've sourced myself a thermostat cover pre-drilled 3/8" bsp for a thermostat switch. However I can't find anyone who supplies these. I can find suppliers for M14, M22 and 3/8" NPT, but not what I need. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thx

How about here...

http://www.revotec.com/acatalog/Electronic-Fan-Con...

Third one down.

[Moto]

ATE399J said:

How about here...

http://www.revotec.com/acatalog/Electronic-Fan-Con...

Third one down.

Thx Phil. I had looked at the Revotec but it's a lot of money at over £70 when a std brass switch is less than a fiver.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152068542089?_trksid=p20...

Also a more messy installation. Nice idea to be able to adjust the temp setting though.

Moto

[tomtrout]

I tried a fixed temp screw-in otter switches but I couldn't find one that cut in before the engine had got hotter than I was comfortable with. In the end i went for the simple Kenlow adjustable thermostat which is easy to fit, requires not holes to be drilled and tapped and works a treat.

[GadgeS3C]

To add to the wisdom here - what fan cut in temperature are folks running?

I'm just back from Le Mans. While there I thought I could hear the fans ( running two Kenlowes on a low rad) running more often than I expected. I fitted a light to tell me when they're on and they are operating all the time once the car warms up.

The fan thermostat is an otter switch on the feed side of the rad. Can't remember what temp in operates at.

I have the adjustable Kenlowe thermostat from the fan kit but didn't use it.

I've only recently fitted an 88c engine thermostat ( was 82c before) so suspect that why they weren't on all the time before.

So, suggestions?

[Moto]

New thermostat housing fitted with an 80-85 deg switch. Single wire from the switch to the relay to 'dash switch' wire. Job done so I thought and started the engine. The fan didn't come on so when the dash gauge read 120 I switched off. The top rad hose was still cold so I presumed the new 82 deg thermostat I fitted wasn't opening. I took it out and tried again. This time all perfect, fan came on automatically as the dash gauge hit 90.

So I tested the thermostat in a pan on the stove and it works fine? Put it back in (yes - correct way up), but same problem, it didn't open so at 120 I turned the engine off again.

I'm now scratching my head - any ideas?

Moto

[alanbarker]

drill small hole in thermostat 3 mm dia to act as a bleed
Alan

[Moto]

alanbarker said:

drill small hole in thermostat 3 mm dia to act as a bleed
Alan

Thx Alan.

I've just tried this and the fan now starts up when the dash gauge reads approx. 100 deg. It's definitely much better but still doesn't seem right. Gut feel is the bleed hole allows hot water through to the thermostat switch - hence why it now starts up sooner. But I still don't think the thermostat is opening as when I take it out, the fan starts up at 90 deg. I can't think of any way to know this for sure and it works fine in a pan on the stove. It's very odd - or is it just the flow is much less through an open thermostat compared to no thermostat?

I can always run without a thermostat fitted (as it's been for the 6 years I've had the car). The only downside I assume is taking longer to reach normal operating temperature?

Moto

[Dollyman1850]

Moto said:

alanbarker said:

drill small hole in thermostat 3 mm dia to act as a bleed
Alan

Thx Alan.

I've just tried this and the fan now starts up when the dash gauge reads approx. 100 deg. It's definitely much better but still doesn't seem right. Gut feel is the bleed hole allows hot water through to the thermostat switch - hence why it now starts up sooner. But I still don't think the thermostat is opening as when I take it out, the fan starts up at 90 deg. I can't think of any way to know this for sure and it works fine in a pan on the stove. It's very odd - or is it just the flow is much less through an open thermostat compared to no thermostat?

I can always run without a thermostat fitted (as it's been for the 6 years I've had the car). The only downside I assume is taking longer to reach normal operating temperature?

Moto

Change the stat for a very good quality one, drill a bleed hole again.
I have seen stats be OK when tested but then get ever so slightly twisted when bolted down enough to prevent them from opening.
Where are you taking the water temp reading from?
I would also consider a lower temp stat I think you can get 82's and 88's
Pic of your cooling system would help?

And how do you know your gauge is accurate??
I would boil your stat in the pan slowly with a thermometer so you can accurately see when it begins to open and when it is fully open..

The other favourite on cooling systems is the potential for short cut circuits via the heater matrix which rob flow from the rad??

N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 3rd July 12:18

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 3rd July 12:20

[phillpot]

Might be right, might be wrong but I was taught that a cooling system needs the thermostat to give a certain resistance to flow< without one (or a suitable restrictor plate) coolant will whizz round too quick and not stay in the radiator long enough to get cooled!

For what they cost I'd try another thermostat, and I'd go for one with a "jiggle pin" .................

[Moto]

[quote=Dollyman1850]

Change the stat for a very good quality one, drill a bleed hole again.
I have seen stats be OK when tested but then get ever so slightly twisted when bolted down enough to prevent them from opening.
Where are you taking the water temp reading from?
I would also consider a lower temp stat I think you can get 82's and 88's
Pic of your cooling system would help?

And how do you know your gauge is accurate??
I would boil your stat in the pan slowly with a thermometer so you can accurately see when it begins to open and when it is fully open..

The other favourite on cooling systems is the potential for short cut circuits via the heater matrix which rob flow from the rad??

N.

How do I know if it's a good quality one? The one I purchased is a First Line from Burton Power and is 82 deg.
The water temp reading is taken from the sender in the block, LHS front, 6" below the thermostat housing.
I don't know the gauge is accurate but it has always (no thermostat fitted) sat on 90 deg on hot days and slightly lower on cooler days.

I'll try the pan test again with a thermometer to get an accurate opening temp.

Photo of setup below. You'll see there is no expansion tank. Also the thermostat housing is the high point so I'm thinking possible air lock around the thermostat, so will also try bleeding.

[anonymous-user]

Try one of these and put a blanking cap on the old filler. It can be filled to the high point and you can take to top off to see the thermostat working. Your temperature sender can then go into the side of the head where it should be.

[Moto]

V6Pushfit said:

Try one of these and put a blanking cap on the old filler. It can be filled to the high point and you can take to top off to see the thermostat working. Your temperature sender can then go into the side of the head where it should be.

In hindsight I think this would have been the better way to go.

Anyway did the pan test with a thermometer and it started to open at 93 deg fully open at 99 deg. So not the 82 deg as stated. This ties with the gauge reading.

So I contacted the manufacturer who said that pan tests in boiling water don't work as the heat is not uniform. It needs to be done in an oil bath. On the basis her indoors would probably be displeased at the idea I've just ordered a 74 deg thermostat with a hole and jiggle pin.

Hey ho

Moto