Aurelius's question No 1

[aureliusTVR]

Evening all
Finally, after a major sort out and a bit of DIY to provide overhead storage, my Taimar is now tucked up in the garage


Now onto business, as confessed in my "new Taimar" thread, I'm a novice to mechanics but want to attempt as much as possible and learn in doing so so apologies in advice for what some might consider "numpty" questions. First job on the list is wheel bearings as 2 are obviously shot. I want to remove the complete rear n/side hub assembly to swap for one of Mr Venn's reconditioned units. I've removed the brake drum/shoes, castellated nut and the 4 nuts on the flange at the diff side but everything is still rock solid. Are the now exposed bolts on the diff side flange threaded into the flange and if so how do I remove them given the lack of clearance between It and the inner axle flange. (I'm reading the part names from the original spares manual) but it's part 42-51 I'm referring to: A 3/4 spanner seems to fit but when I apply some muscle, it's starting to round the bolt. There's no clearance for a socket so any suggestions please?

[GAjon]

Edited by GAjon on Sunday 27th November 21:28

[phillpot]

Throw those crappy old UJ driveshafts with their sliding splines and old school bearing packs away, don't waste your money getting them refurbed, and get some super duper CV jointed shafts with spanking new bearings all built up and ready to go

Classic Driving Developments Driveshafts

[aureliusTVR]

I have seen these and the are lovely but the prices are plain silly. I'd consider them at max £500 a pair but not £800+
Plus I still need to get the originals off!
Am I to take it I just need to get the hammer out and start persuading now?

[aureliusTVR]

Also forgot to ask this... I still have the brake pipe connected to the cylinder. If the pipe was rubber , I would try and disconnect and pinch it shut but my pipes have been uprated to stainless so do I need to drain the complete system?

[plasticpig72]

You can leave the Brake Backplate in place and the Brakes.
Rear Hub Assy NEW "circlip type" part n° TKC 897 Rimmer Bros TR6
Alan

Edited by plasticpig72 on Monday 28th November 09:05

[Andrew Gray]

phillpot said:

Throw those crappy old UJ driveshafts with their sliding splines and old school bearing packs away, don't waste your money getting them refurbed, and get some super duper CV jointed shafts with spanking new bearings all built up and ready to go

Classic Driving Developments Driveshafts

I tend to agree with Mike here great upgrade and when the time comes if i need to i will go that route on the 3000s
Andrew

[plasticpig72]

For sure very nice but £1000 including vat wow wow.
The cars have lasted for 40 years.
Now as classic cars they will be driven less.
On my 3000S i replaced the uj's with good quality GKN with grease nipples. The bearings in the hubs have very little play. No problem.
I suppose you pay your money and take your choice + your pocket
Alan

[phillpot]

They are not cheap, but small volume quality engineering never will be and if all you "stuff" is in good order £1000 takes some justifying?

BUT if what you have is, at around 40 years old, pretty well shot it's a "no brainer" to me

[Andrew Gray]

phillpot said:

They are not cheap, but small volume quality engineering never will be and if all you "stuff" is in good order £1000 takes some justifying?

BUT if what you have is, at around 40 years old, pretty well shot it's a "no brainer" to me

Yes i agree i would only do if more than the bearings are shot however if the rest is good then they have a Value so could be sold on to recoup some of the cost
I will probably have my Vixen and Tuscan Uprights complete fully built with quills etc ready to fit for sale at some point when i upgrade these upgrades are expensive but there is always a value in what your replacing especially if in good condition
Andrew

Edited by Andrew Gray on Monday 28th November 10:52

[tomtrout]

GAjon said:

Edited by GAjon on Sunday 27th November 21:28

If there is no room for a socket then use a good quality flat ring spanner. A little heat from a blow torch can work wonders. If the two flanges won't separate once you have removed all the bolts then try "ringing" the edge of the two stuck flanges with a hammer to loosen any bits that are glued up with surface rust. rotate your hammering where possible and the two sections should free-up. Famous last words!

Don't worry about the effect of disconnecting your brake pipe. It shouldn't leak too much fluid and you can pop a little rubber brake nipple cover over the end to stop it dripping. You will have to bleed out any trapped air bubbles once you have reconnected. Have fun!

[aureliusTVR]

Thanks Tom, for the advice, these tasks never run like the youtube vids (whereby everything comes apart first go) do they!
Even my existing ring spanner is too wide but I'll keep an eye out for a slimmer one or grind mine down a bit
I'm reluctant to use heat because
(a) I don't own a torch !!
(b) Everything is covered in what I assume is waxoyl, which I also assume is flammable?

I'll get the hammer out and let you know how it goes
Thanks also to GAjon for the pics which I look to have followed ....apart from the coming apart bit!

[Dollyman1850]

I don't really understand many on this forum at times!

Correct me if I am wrong but the consensus seems to be to Connect a shonky old Spitfire or TR6 diff capable of handling about 50hp up to some ancient old TR4 IRS hub units which may have been poorly re-furbished and wrongly handed over the years..Or worse still some old tired vixen type quill shafts cleaned up with some new chinese bearings off e-bay!!…The consensus then seems to be to connect them together by throwing perfectly useable driveshafts away and utilising something engineered to take 1000hp!!!

My money would always go on the bits that are known to be weak first. The very last bit I would change are the old and very strong faithful driveshafts and U/J's

How many on this forum have experienced spline lock or know what it feels like in the car!

I don't think I have even experienced the phenomenon whilst pushing on out of the complex at Croft in the racing car!!

The max fore and aft movement on the old sliding splines over full droop to compression on an M or Vixen must be a max of about 25mm.

Brand new driveshafts with heavy duty greasable Hardy Spicer joints are no more than £120 per side.

Spend your money wisely folks!!

They are lovely quality but unless you are planning some mega horsepower or racing then completely un-necessary.

If you are really worried about spline lock you would be better served buying some Thick loco grease.



N.

[phillpot]

Dollyman1850 said:

I don't really understand many on this forum at times!

Nor me

Dollyman1850 said:

Connect a shonky old Spitfire or TR6 diff

Jag diff

Dollyman1850 said:

some ancient old TR4 IRS hub units

CV joint shafts are complete with all new hubs, flanges and bearings etc........

Edited by phillpot on Monday 28th November 21:32

[anonymous-user]

I had a bad knocking on power on/off, and two diffs later (one a disastrous rebuild by a bodger on the Essex coast) I found it was in fact really shot splines. Had I known then it would have just been the £400 for two top notch driveshafts from St Neots.

[Dollyman1850]

phillpot said:

Dollyman1850 said:

I don't really understand many on this forum at times!

Nor me

Dollyman1850 said:

Connect a shonky old Spitfire or TR6 diff

Jag diff

Dollyman1850 said:

some ancient old TR4 IRS hub units

CV joint shafts are complete with all new hubs, flanges and bearings etc........

Edited by phillpot on Monday 28th November 21:32

Then it is approaching £2000 per pair surely !
I have a set of Qaiffe hubs in the garage destined for the racing car…still on sliding spline shafts though!
The old fellas car has New un refurbished TR6 Hubs….Still with sliding spline shafts.
The previous post and the prices quoted seems to intimate shafts only but if it is £990 per pair including hubs then that will make it pretty good value.

Last time I looked there were still a lot of vixens and M's running diffs which are not from Jags...

[anonymous-user]

The GT6 diff is fine, even more so the one with stronger carriers and the Vixen is a lighter car

[DavidY]

In the good old days clicking splines in driveshafts was solved with a large lump hammer!!

Oh the hours of fun of liberating Triumph 2000 driveshafts and bearings from rusty hulks in the scrapyard, working on the middle car of a three car stack, health and safety at work...!....

There used to be a scrapyard at Berinsfield near Oxford, run by ex-Hells Angels, the gaffer had more pins in his body from bike accidents than was comfortable, your toolbox was inspected on the way in and way out, and you definitely didn't want to cross them. I extracted several sets of Triumph 2000 driveshafts there, working in a foot of mud, they were alkways amazed someone so puny could actually get them off the car, so I usually got them a good price as I provided entertainment value!!!!

[Dollyman1850]

DavidY said:

In the good old days clicking splines in driveshafts was solved with a large lump hammer!!

Oh the hours of fun of liberating Triumph 2000 driveshafts and bearings from rusty hulks in the scrapyard, working on the middle car of a three car stack, health and safety at work...!....

There used to be a scrapyard at Berinsfield near Oxford, run by ex-Hells Angels, the gaffer had more pins in his body from bike accidents than was comfortable, your toolbox was inspected on the way in and way out, and you definitely didn't want to cross them. I extracted several sets of Triumph 2000 driveshafts there, working in a foot of mud, they were alkways amazed someone so puny could actually get them off the car, so I usually got them a good price as I provided entertainment value!!!!

Happy days Mr Yeomans.
N.

[the other tim]

I had quite a chat with the Classic Driving Developments guys at the pre 80s and for big torque eg 302 V8 the old style sliding shaft hardy spicer set-up was recommended over cv joints.