Vixen, What carburettor should I have?

[phazed]

I'm just trying to sort out the carburation on my 1970 series 2 Ford engined Vixen

I have a Weber 32DGV fitted.

I have no idea whether this is the correct carburettor for this car.

Is there a standard carburettor that was fitted? If not please let me know what I should have?

As the car is not running correctly at the moment, (carburation) this may be the opportunity to fit twin carburettors.

[Raven 930]

I replaced the FoMoCo Weber on mine with a Weber 28/36 DCD - it gave more options for re-jetting.
Your temptation to go with 40DCOEs is not misplaced, provided that the rest of the engine tune is able to maximise the enhanced breathing.

[phazed]

The engine has been totally rebuilt and runs very smoothly, starts effortlessly and is very quiet.

The problem I have is that it runs nicely on what I assume is the first choke but when you increased the throttle its starts missing and sort of cutting out.

As far as I am aware it is probably a standard period engine. It has a four into two into one exhaust manifold but the remainder of the specification is a mystery and I will probably never know exactly what it is.

It may be a better idea to stick with the correct twin choke carburettor but ensure that it is jetted correctly.

Are you aware of what I should have fitted jet wise to my carburator?

[phazed]

Carb 32DGV 7a. 069639

Accelerator pump works ok.
2 jets in base of float bowl are No142
Air correction jets in the top of the body are 125 & 170.
Choke size is 1 1/4"

[plasticpig72]

Imho stay with standard carb and make sure it is running correctly. That's to say very clean and no cross drillings blocked etc.
Alan

[nwarner]

My Vixen S3 has a 32DFV

This is what it looks like.

[phazed]

A different carburettor to mine, I wonder what the difference is?

[nwarner]

That's a weber 32/36 dgv which was used on later Cortina's Capri's Escorts etc. and also on 1600M's. Mine was used on the earlier versions.

Nige

[phazed]

Interesting, does that mean it is the correct carburettor for this car?

I wonder why the code stamped on it just says 32DGV?

Do you know what jetting I should be running?

[Andrew Gray]

I would not mess around to much Peter i suspect it wont be that long once you have the other cars engine re built and in you will be tempted to take the engine out and take her to 1700 fast road speck which a lot of cars are re built to these days as long as you have a 711 block not really worth spending the money doing an upgrade if its not.
The car is very different with 140bhp than 90bhp
Here is mine with the twin 40s




Andrew

[phazed]

My options are open at the moment Andrew.

I will hopefully get this to run properly as it is and then consider what else to do next winter.

I will have enough on my hands rebuilding the 5.5 and progressing that in the next few months.

[Moto]

Andrew Gray said:

as long as you have a 711 block not really worth spending the money doing an upgrade if its not.
Andrew

I didn't think the S2 had a 711M block. I thought that came with the S3.

Moto

[Andrew Gray]

Moto said:

Andrew Gray said:

as long as you have a 711 block not really worth spending the money doing an upgrade if its not.
Andrew

I didn't think the S2 had a 711M block. I thought that came with the S3.

Moto

You May well be right Steve however many cars no longer have there original engine and probably when changed people tried to find a 711 block so its worth checking
Andrew

[Dollyman1850]

Here is a thread from a good few years ago which may be helpful.

Correct carb for an S2 (early) is a DFM.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

It should tell you which is the correct carb for your car in terms of OE and also gets some settings for you to check. Later cars had later carbs and linkages.

N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 29th January 20:08

[Dollyman1850]

Moto said:

Andrew Gray said:

as long as you have a 711 block not really worth spending the money doing an upgrade if its not.
Andrew

I didn't think the S2 had a 711M block. I thought that came with the S3.

Moto

It didn't...There are lots of very powerful tuned 691 block GT and even pre-crossflow blocks around so if you have a correct GT spec block in your S2 vixen then 140hp (flywheel) is perfectly adequate if you wish to rebuild to a better spec…a 711 block is as antiquated as the rest of the others these days! If you were building an all steel 160 - 170hp screamer then yes the later block would be a requirement but is perfectly adequate for limited tuning.

To be honest Twin 40's are in my opinion just a way of making the car thirstier unless you have completely re-worked the head and cam to make use of the potential.

[anonymous-user]

Unless you want to north of 120 fly BHP, get a 28/36. Proper Weber and very tunable.

[Andrew Gray]

Dollyman1850 said:

Moto said:

Andrew Gray said:

as long as you have a 711 block not really worth spending the money doing an upgrade if its not.
Andrew

I didn't think the S2 had a 711M block. I thought that came with the S3.

Moto

It didn't...There are lots of very powerful tuned 691 block GT and even pre-crossflow blocks around so if you have a correct GT spec block in your S2 vixen then 140hp (flywheel) is perfectly adequate if you wish to rebuild to a better spec…a 711 block is as antiquated as the rest of the others these days! If you were building an all steel 160 - 170hp screamer then yes the later block would be a requirement but is perfectly adequate for limited tuning.

To be honest Twin 40's are in my opinion just a way of making the car thirstier unless you have completely re-worked the head and cam to make use of the potential.

And in others opinion Neil the 711 block is more desirable very true the twin 40s are thirsty but with an engine spec such as mine needed should Peter wish to go that direction i am sure he has more than enough experience to research full what he decides to do .
Andrew

[ATE399J]

I would suggest that you find a tuner and get it set up on a rolling road. I always think setting up Webbers a bit of a black art and an expert is well worth the money.
Get it running right with what it has before you start rebuilding it in your mind, you never know, it might be fantastic as it is once correctly set up!

[anonymous-user]

TVRMs said:

Unless you want to north of 120 fly BHP, get a 28/36. Proper Weber and very tunable.

32/36 may be a better bet? Bit more on the first choke and was fitted to the Capri GT, they go for about £60 on the flea and

[Dollyman1850]

V6Pushfit said:

32/36 may be a better bet? Bit more on the first choke and was fitted to the Capri GT, they go for about £60 on the flea and

The trouble with getting second hand stuff is that there could be a load of hassle to get it to work properly. The 32/36 were made for all sorts of OHV and OHC fords of the period with a myriad of jetting combinations.
I think sticking with the original carb and having a session with an old school mechanic that understands carbs and jets will most likely be the way forward..It may just need a good service, especially if it has been sitting around unused for a long period. I would start with sticking the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner to give it a good clean out.

Unless of course the OP wants to take other advise and throw his perfectly good engine away to source a later Escort 711M block and start from scratch

When did the OP ask about twin 40's anyhow? Must have missed that one.

Here is a gratuitous pic of a spunky looking but not relevant carb

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WEBER-32-36-DGV-CARB-CAR...


N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 29th January 21:12