M series quick release hinges

[plasticpig72]

100% I x V = Watts back to school
Alan

[DavidY]

Andrew Gray said:

Rest assured David they are more than up to the Job and as you can see a neater job than the bulky trailer sockets i have on the 3000s
Here is the Tuscan one although i have not fitted quick release hinges as yet still makes sense if the bonnet needs to come off at some point.



Andrew

Andrew I'm just flagging up that the right rating connectors and cable should be used for these applications, in my mind there is always a concern when ratings are not published. The return earth connector is just as important, as besides lights, you may have a heater fan up front on a TVR. A decent chunky separate earth connector is never a bad idea.

And whilst people are making electrical mods, consideration should be given for extra relays for headlamps, rather than passing everything through the dashboard switches and column switches.

A little bit of time spent researching, can safe you a) electrical failure or b) a fire!!!

I'm sure you have the current rating for the connectors that you are using, as well as what they are drawing, so no worries from me.

[plasticpig72]

Would fitting a flat braided earth from bonnet to one of the studs on the chassis be a good idea. Where it is attached to the chassis stud you could use a brass wing nut to detach easily. The braided is more flexible when opening and closing bonnet.
I'm just thinking out aloud.
Alan

[Andrew Gray]

DavidY said:

Andrew Gray said:

Rest assured David they are more than up to the Job and as you can see a neater job than the bulky trailer sockets i have on the 3000s
Here is the Tuscan one although i have not fitted quick release hinges as yet still makes sense if the bonnet needs to come off at some point.



Andrew

Andrew I'm just flagging up that the right rating connectors and cable should be used for these applications, in my mind there is always a concern when ratings are not published. The return earth connector is just as important, as besides lights, you may have a heater fan up front on a TVR. A decent chunky separate earth connector is never a bad idea.

And whilst people are making electrical mods, consideration should be given for extra relays for headlamps, rather than passing everything through the dashboard switches and column switches.

A little bit of time spent researching, can safe you a) electrical failure or b) a fire!!!

I'm sure you have the current rating for the connectors that you are using, as well as what they are drawing, so no worries from me.

Hi David i understand your concern and yes they dont publish the ratings i suspect as the connectors are more than ample for most applications.
As for the earths on this one they are on a separate Connection and all rated well beyond the required minimum.
These are running on a lot of cars we used thin core cable to allow us the flexibility when building the Loom and make sure all cables exceeded the amount required for each circuit .
Andrew

[phillpot]

Is this similar to what you have Andrew? ... Aviation connectors

[DavidY]

They are 1mm pins, Andrew's a 3mm, so much beefier

[phillpot]

Oh yes, just read the spec.

Found them while looking for trailer plugs 'n sockets, look neat but not suitable

[Andrew Gray]

phillpot said:

Is this similar to what you have Andrew? ... Aviation connectors

No Mike
I have never seen these on e bay but Auto sparks have them in five seven and 9 way when fitting i put a strip of clear heat shrink on the loom then wires through the rubber seal then you solder and crimp the wires on the connectors and finish wrapping the loom then finally a couple of lucas lables eaither side and slide the clear heat shrink over the label and heat.
Give a neat factory look even if they never had originally
Andrew

[Andrew Gray]

plasticpig72 said:

Would fitting a flat braided earth from bonnet to one of the studs on the chassis be a good idea. Where it is attached to the chassis stud you could use a brass wing nut to detach easily. The braided is more flexible when opening and closing bonnet.
I'm just thinking out aloud.
Alan

Depending on how your earths are wired up Brian i prefer each service to have its own earth wire rather than share so you have 7 earths if you include the heather fan on the M take them to a 9 way socket then have the same coming out the other side heat shrink those seven earths and use a large ring connector and then you have a neat way to disconnected matching the live socket on the other side of the car
Andrew

[plasticpig72]

Here's photo of hinges. The 1/2" unf set screw needs to have the head cut off to length to suit. This then screws into the bonnet frame tube. If the thread is seized in frame tube leave as is and just cut off to required length.

I hope this helps someone
Alan

[plasticpig72]

Quick release hinges fitted and well pleased

Alan

[anonymous-user]

Looks good! Bit of fun lining the holes up and and adjusting but well worth it.

[Andrew Gray]

A little Different to my 3000s ones

Andrew

[plasticpig72]

yes a little different.
Mine the Dia is 30mm and the "R" clip is for 30mm dia so maybe the clip is a little tighter. If the 1/2" unf thread is rusted solid in the Bonnet Frame tube you can leave it in place. Just cut through the 1/2" dia at the bottom where it increases to 20mm dia.
You then screw on 1/2 lock Nut and my adapter, cross drill for "R" Clip 5mm dia. Job done. Assemble with Copperslip Or if your feeling rich you can make the adapter from stainless
Alan