Taimar body removal info
Discussion
Hi folks,
I'm planning on removing the body from my Taimar to give the chassis a damn good seeing to
. Can someone tell me where I can get info on how to remove it (where are the bolts, what needs disconnected etc). I don't think there's a workshop manual for this car?
Also what technique would you recommend for lifting the body, I have a chain hoist but I was wondering where would be the best lifting points to use on the body so not to stress it.
Thanks in advance
I'm planning on removing the body from my Taimar to give the chassis a damn good seeing to
. Can someone tell me where I can get info on how to remove it (where are the bolts, what needs disconnected etc). I don't think there's a workshop manual for this car?Also what technique would you recommend for lifting the body, I have a chain hoist but I was wondering where would be the best lifting points to use on the body so not to stress it.
Thanks in advance
Hi
I've done this on my 3000S which you can see on my website http://nwarner.worldonline.co.uk/
Most of the bolts that hold the body to the chassis are pretty obvious from underneath not like on the Scimitar. From what I can remember there 2 in each footwell and 2 behind each seat. There are the seatbelt mountings and 2 or 4 at the very back by the rear valance.
Best method of removal is with 4 people. I had 2 at the rear wheel arches and 2 lifting under the sill at the very front. You can lift the body straight up and off with no problems.
Nige
I've done this on my 3000S which you can see on my website http://nwarner.worldonline.co.uk/
Most of the bolts that hold the body to the chassis are pretty obvious from underneath not like on the Scimitar. From what I can remember there 2 in each footwell and 2 behind each seat. There are the seatbelt mountings and 2 or 4 at the very back by the rear valance.
Best method of removal is with 4 people. I had 2 at the rear wheel arches and 2 lifting under the sill at the very front. You can lift the body straight up and off with no problems.
Nige
Follow Nigel's post and you'll be fine. One extra person to make sure nothing is still attached (like a handbrake cable) is useful, as are some blocks to stand the large lads on at the back to give them a bit more height.
Remember the beers and take-away curry for afterwards and watch as everyone takes the p*ss out of the rotten parts of your chassis!!!
davidy
Remember the beers and take-away curry for afterwards and watch as everyone takes the p*ss out of the rotten parts of your chassis!!!
davidy
1) Disconnect wires to front lights, unclip or cut off of chassis back to bulkhead taking wires for front fan, horn, temp gauge sender, alternator and any other ancillaries that may be present. Tie up at bulkhead.
2) Disconnect windscreen washer water pipe to bonnet.
3) Undo bonnet and remove.
4) Take off inner wings/wheel arches.
5) Disconnect oil pressure sender pipe.
6) Disconnect fuel pipes.
7) Disconnect clutch cable at bell housing lever pull out and tie at bulkhead.
8) Disconnect speedo cable from box and tie up at bulkhead.
9) Disconnect reversing light wires from sender.
10) Un-bolt handbrake lever from chassis pull from inside the cockpit and tie to chassis under the car.
11) Take off gear stick.
12) Take off radiator and hoses to and from heater matrix control valves etc.
13) Undo fuel pipe off petrol tank pull out from under the car and tie to chassis
14) Check for any wires that may have been fitted through the body and attached to the chassis as a retro fit i.e fuel pump, rear fog lights etc.
15) Take out seats. (4 bolts per seat)
16) Undo or cut off bolts holding body to chassis –
2 at front of each foot well – 4 total
2 behind each seat holding seat belt mountings – 4 total
2 in rear wheel arch holding seat belt reel. (This bracket should then fold down out of the way) – 4 total
2 through the very back chassis rail under the petrol tank.-2 total.
17) Get a trolley jack and rectangular piece of wood, place the jack with the wood on top under the body between the chassis mount points and on the fibreglass on one of the front foot well locations. Raise the jack so you are pushing the body off the chassis slightly, the chassis may lift with the body, get a long screwdriver and prise between the chassis and the body until the chassis and body separate.
There will be a lot of creaking noises at this point.
Repeat this at all four points where the chassis was bolted and also at the back.
18) Have at least 5 people – 2 at the rear wheel arches, 2 at the front, 1 supervising, watching, ready to take care of the wire still connected somewhere.
19) Lift the back of body up first to a point above the top of the back, across car, chassis rails.
20) Lift the front slightly, and then the whole thing back down the taper of the main top chassis rails (front to back of car). You can then rest the body on the back cross chassis rails and have a breather. (See picture)
21) Now all four corners should be lifted up and the 5th person can wheel chassis out from under the body. (It’s easier than four people trying to walk sideways with the body).
22) Brew up (Oh put the body down)
John
2) Disconnect windscreen washer water pipe to bonnet.
3) Undo bonnet and remove.
4) Take off inner wings/wheel arches.
5) Disconnect oil pressure sender pipe.
6) Disconnect fuel pipes.
7) Disconnect clutch cable at bell housing lever pull out and tie at bulkhead.
8) Disconnect speedo cable from box and tie up at bulkhead.
9) Disconnect reversing light wires from sender.
10) Un-bolt handbrake lever from chassis pull from inside the cockpit and tie to chassis under the car.
11) Take off gear stick.
12) Take off radiator and hoses to and from heater matrix control valves etc.
13) Undo fuel pipe off petrol tank pull out from under the car and tie to chassis
14) Check for any wires that may have been fitted through the body and attached to the chassis as a retro fit i.e fuel pump, rear fog lights etc.
15) Take out seats. (4 bolts per seat)
16) Undo or cut off bolts holding body to chassis –
2 at front of each foot well – 4 total
2 behind each seat holding seat belt mountings – 4 total
2 in rear wheel arch holding seat belt reel. (This bracket should then fold down out of the way) – 4 total
2 through the very back chassis rail under the petrol tank.-2 total.
17) Get a trolley jack and rectangular piece of wood, place the jack with the wood on top under the body between the chassis mount points and on the fibreglass on one of the front foot well locations. Raise the jack so you are pushing the body off the chassis slightly, the chassis may lift with the body, get a long screwdriver and prise between the chassis and the body until the chassis and body separate.
There will be a lot of creaking noises at this point.
Repeat this at all four points where the chassis was bolted and also at the back.
18) Have at least 5 people – 2 at the rear wheel arches, 2 at the front, 1 supervising, watching, ready to take care of the wire still connected somewhere.
19) Lift the back of body up first to a point above the top of the back, across car, chassis rails.
20) Lift the front slightly, and then the whole thing back down the taper of the main top chassis rails (front to back of car). You can then rest the body on the back cross chassis rails and have a breather. (See picture)
21) Now all four corners should be lifted up and the 5th person can wheel chassis out from under the body. (It’s easier than four people trying to walk sideways with the body).
22) Brew up (Oh put the body down)
John
Gulp - What happened to the "undo 6 bolts and you'll be OK" !
Seriously cheers for that info I have access to a body roller so that should make some of the preparation work a bit easier. Just need to book a week off work - without telling wife of course who would otherwise line up about a hundred other jobs for me do
Seriously cheers for that info I have access to a body roller so that should make some of the preparation work a bit easier. Just need to book a week off work - without telling wife of course who would otherwise line up about a hundred other jobs for me do
robgte
Others may disagree, but I would just take an angle grinder to most of the body bolts, it just saves a lot of time and you aren't going to put those manky old bolts back on again!
And you don't have to take the doors/hatch off, I've lifted the body off my Taimar (twice) without removing these, but I would take the seats and the petrol tank out to save weight.
davidy
Others may disagree, but I would just take an angle grinder to most of the body bolts, it just saves a lot of time and you aren't going to put those manky old bolts back on again!
And you don't have to take the doors/hatch off, I've lifted the body off my Taimar (twice) without removing these, but I would take the seats and the petrol tank out to save weight.
davidy
I have plans for my own car (3000M), involving removing the body to restore the chassis etc. A couple of questions please;
1. Should the front and rear screens be removed prior to lifting the body? Are they in danger of twisting and cracking or are they best left in place to assist with rigidity? I'd hate to write off the rear screen.
2. Can the fuel tank be removed with the rear screen still in place?
Many thanks,
Steve.
1. Should the front and rear screens be removed prior to lifting the body? Are they in danger of twisting and cracking or are they best left in place to assist with rigidity? I'd hate to write off the rear screen.
2. Can the fuel tank be removed with the rear screen still in place?
Many thanks,
Steve.
Steve,
I have taken the bodies off M's with the glass in and out, the risk of breaking is always there, even just removing the glass, but that said I've not broken any glass yet.
You can take out the tank through the cockpit, but you have to take out the seats, the tank must be empty, and it's a struggle.
I threaded two pieces of rope under and around the tank at both ends to get purchase, then just heaved it out.
John
I have taken the bodies off M's with the glass in and out, the risk of breaking is always there, even just removing the glass, but that said I've not broken any glass yet.
You can take out the tank through the cockpit, but you have to take out the seats, the tank must be empty, and it's a struggle.
I threaded two pieces of rope under and around the tank at both ends to get purchase, then just heaved it out.
John
Perhaps a good idea to FIRST remove the battery, its heavy and its removal prevents all those loose wires and petrol pipes turning the body into a bonfire !!. The usual culprit that gets forgotten is the handbrake warning light wiring. If oyu are now lifting and wondering why the bodyshell feels as heavy as the car its because you still have the steering column connected to the rack (usually best to split at top u/j I would like to thank our sponsors Radox and Elastoplast for their help with this article sTeVeR
DavidY said:
robgte
Others may disagree, but I would just take an angle grinder to most of the body bolts, it just saves a lot of time and you aren't going to put those manky old bolts back on again!
And you don't have to take the doors/hatch off, I've lifted the body off my Taimar (twice) without removing these, but I would take the seats and the petrol tank out to save weight.
davidy
But you did need 4 blokes and a cook to lift the body.Others may disagree, but I would just take an angle grinder to most of the body bolts, it just saves a lot of time and you aren't going to put those manky old bolts back on again!
And you don't have to take the doors/hatch off, I've lifted the body off my Taimar (twice) without removing these, but I would take the seats and the petrol tank out to save weight.
davidy
The cook was for the chilli we had afterwards.
Russ
GAjon said:
Sunday Neil, just called by on the off chance on the way out for lunch with the missus, sorry I missed you, I was told you was'nt there.
John
I was playing out at Anglesey. Got back Sunday afternoon to pick Geoff's Tuscan up. Hopefully see you second time around in August. or at the Rock.John
N.
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