New/Replacement Crossflow

[RobStan]

Hi all

My engine needs a rebuild. I've asked on here before about places local to me (Burnley) or places that are highly recommended by you guys, but I'm having little success in finding someone. I'm not after anything really stupid, just a block & head maybe a little re-boring.

I'm open to suggestions, but looking on the web names like Vulcan and Burton crop up a lot...

Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Rob

[heightswitch]

RobStan said:

Hi all

My engine needs a rebuild. I've asked on here before about places local to me (Burnley) or places that are highly recommended by you guys, but I'm having little success in finding someone. I'm not after anything really stupid, just a block & head maybe a little re-boring.

I'm open to suggestions, but looking on the web names like Vulcan and Burton crop up a lot...

Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Rob

car clinic.

www.essexengines.com

Edited by heightswitch on Thursday 5th March 14:23

Edited by heightswitch on Thursday 5th March 14:25

[RobStan]

Now I did contact these guys in Blackburn, but they couldn't tell me how much it was going to be. I was told "I can't even guess the price as we don't the Kent engine very often, it'll be like the other Essex rebuild costs, but different"

In there defence though they've been recommend to me before, so perhaps I should just let them have it a not look when I pay the bill...

[heightswitch]

RobStan said:

Now I did contact these guys in Blackburn, but they couldn't tell me how much it was going to be. I was told "I can't even guess the price as we don't the Kent engine very often, it'll be like the other Essex rebuild costs, but different"

In there defence though they've been recommend to me before, so perhaps I should just let them have it a not look when I pay the bill...

I have heard of issues regards communication but thought you would have less problems since you will speak blackburn.

I know of a particularly long lived and very good 3.1 V6 essex that has done 4 seasons racing without incident which is why I would recommend them as a good engine builder that is close to you.

N.

[brittanytvr]

I don't know if it can help you but I have bought a rebuilt modified caterham crossflow engine from a guy near Nottimgham, this engine has been assembled with all the good parts from burton, lightened, balanced, rebored, dyno etc, I have not the invoice here with the address and contact détail, but I am sure he work in your aréa, good reputation on crossflow, Bda etc
"Paul Gardner race engines" perhaps this link??
http://paulgardnerengineering.com/

[thermister]

hey it's darwen not blackburn,

[jpa]

What about these guys in Blackburn? They look like a nice old school outfit that might understand the older motor a bit better perhaps?

http://www.weirstreet.co.uk/contact.htm

Cheers
Paul.

[Fiscracer]

Not near you but when I ran a road Caterham I used Phil Jones near Bristol

http://www.pjed.co.uk/engine_development_engines.h...

Very good

R

[jerseyvixen]

hi
I have used phil jones and will be using him again . rebuilt gearboxes / engine. will be back to him for more power. Good old school engine builder.
Lloyd

[RobStan]

Sorry Mark. I was aware it was Darwen and should have been more thoughtful.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll check them out.

Cheers

[FlipFlopGriff]

And I thought it was just pubs in Darwen????
Got relatives up there so know the odd pub - only ever seem to talk and drink (brew or alocohol).
FFG

[THREEFISHORANGE]

You can try YARWOOD ENGINEERING in Audley cheshire.
He does engines for formula fords etc.

[RobStan]

As well as where to go to get it done does anyone have any suggestions on what I should have done?

It seems that its the same price to have the block rebuilt to 1700 as it would to have ot rebuilt and left at 1600, but what should I do about the head? GT (as it is now), Stage2, Maxiflow?

Cheers

[heightswitch]

RobStan said:

As well as where to go to get it done does anyone have any suggestions on what I should have done?

It seems that its the same price to have the block rebuilt to 1700 as it would to have ot rebuilt and left at 1600, but what should I do about the head? GT (as it is now), Stage2, Maxiflow?

Cheers

assuming your engine is std bore 60" overbore will give you 1660 and stillleave another re-fresh in the block, you can go 90" to get you higher but why would you. the old trick was always to use 1300 60" pistons in a 1600 block to get you a 10.5 CR ratio but these need reliefs for the valves machining in them.

Also depends on how old your engine is whether it has flat head or small comb chamber.

peter wallages book rebuilding and tuning the ford crossflow engine should be Mandatory reading. Its an easy engine to work on. you could just get the block sorted and re-assemble yourself.

N.

[Monkeythree]

RobStan said:

As well as where to go to get it done does anyone have any suggestions on what I should have done?

It seems that its the same price to have the block rebuilt to 1700 as it would to have ot rebuilt and left at 1600, but what should I do about the head? GT (as it is now), Stage2, Maxiflow?

Cheers

Ric Wood in Stockport is very good but before contacting him, I suggest you define what it is you want from your engine.
Is it for road or race use?
What compromises are you prepared to make?
What is your budget?!
Once you know what you want the engine to do then you can prioritise what to do to it. Cylinder heads are often marketed as an easy way of making more power but it is easy to succomb to the "bigger must be better" mentality. One of the downsides of the design of the crossflow combustion chamber is valve shrouding. This is made worse when running bigger inlet valves on standard bores. Or in other words, a properly gas flowed head on standard valves will generally drive far better than your typical "polished & ported" head with enormous valves. Good chance it will make more "headline" power too if it's been done by someone who knows what they're doing.

[RobStan]

As it happens I've just spoken to Ric who is off down under for a race in the morning.

But to answer the questions, I'm looking for road use at about 110bhp and have a figure in mind, but would rather not say.

I think the answer might be that I have the block and head reworked and then, as Neil has suggested, I rebuild it myself. This way I get the fun of building it and a well spec'd engine.

[heightswitch]

RobStan said:

As it happens I've just spoken to Ric who is off down under for a race in the morning.

But to answer the questions, I'm looking for road use at about 110bhp and have a figure in mind, but would rather not say.

I think the answer might be that I have the block and head reworked and then, as Neil has suggested, I rebuild it myself. This way I get the fun of building it and a well spec'd engine.

buy this book Rob.

very well written, easy no nonsense no bullst approach to building your engine.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rebuilding-Tuning-Fords-Cr...

Your other option of course is to find a nice 2.0 zetec and bolt it in for much more power without much more cost.

N.

Rob. Just dug mine out and after research for my old XR2 I came up with the following spec for a nice road tractable, torquey motor

Spec was essentially 60" overbore using 1.3 60" pistons to get compression up to 10.5 :1, This however may be a little high with todays fuels? you could at the time buy from Vulcan ready machined
Dont go too daft on head, something like a vulcan maxiflow1 with 1.625 inlets but standard exhaust valves. kent 224 is a tourqey cam which doesn't loose bottom end. reliefs are sometimes not needed in pistons but recommended
Carb. you can switch manifolds and go to a 34DMTL for approx 120hp, Switching to twin 40's with small chokes gets approx 130hp but still lots of driveability

Ancillaries. throw the ford / bosch dissy away, Crossys work best with a Lucas based dissy. with the fast road spec Aldon can supply one with a good timing swing to maximise performance.

flywheel can be lightened but not too much on a road driven car.
vernier pulley set for timing cam in.

As ive said you can go 90" for 1700cc but staying at 60" will leave a freshen in the block.

other mods are getting rid of the crancase breather into a catch tank and vent to atmosphere

all the above is assuming a 711m block with flat Heads. You need also to ensure your engine has not previously had any head skims which will take compression through roof and result in pinking.

peter wallages book isn't in depth but ist is good for a amateur builder with its step by step approach.

N.

Edited by heightswitch on Monday 9th March 23:02

[RobStan]

Cheers Neil

As it happens I have that book! I thought I recognised it. Thanks for the idea on the spec. My next questions was going to be about the carb. Currently I have the 32/36dgv on the standard manifold. I was hoping not to have to spend on a new carb at this stage but, as ever, I'm interested in your opinion.

cheers

[TVR_owner]

RobStan said:

Cheers Neil

As it happens I have that book! I thought I recognised it. Thanks for the idea on the spec. My next questions was going to be about the carb. Currently I have the 32/36dgv on the standard manifold. I was hoping not to have to spend on a new carb at this stage but, as ever, I'm interested in your opinion.

cheers

28/36 is a better carb the than the 32/36. Twin 40s is probably a better option IMO.

[jpa]

TVR_owner said:

28/36 is a better carb the than the 32/36.

Why is that? Is it worth changing?