Fhc body lift

Fhc body lift

Author
Discussion

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Wednesday 11th May 2016
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Chassis needs work then




adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Wednesday 11th May 2016
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If you have the covers off, you don't need to lift the body to do the outriggers, just chop them off and fit new ones.

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Wednesday 11th May 2016
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Thanks Adam, I'm taking the body off to do all the bits that are difficult to get to.
Can't get my head around the trailing arms, with the body off I might stand a chance


Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Thursday 12th May 2016
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Collected some new shiny bits from RT today and tacked them on ready for full welds when the body's off


TVRleigh_BBWR

6,552 posts

212 months

Thursday 12th May 2016
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looking plus cunning plan to tack them into the right place before the lift.

Wedg1e

26,760 posts

264 months

Thursday 12th May 2016
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Hard to be certain from here but that looks like it could be one of the infamous grey epoxy-coated chassis. Which rot just as badly as all the others once the epoxy gets chipped rolleyes

My favoured technique is to use galvanised plate with the zinc cleared along the weld lines. Whether you use galv or not, a good coat of Smoothrite followed by underseal and you should have at least 15 years corrosion-free.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,552 posts

212 months

Friday 13th May 2016
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POR 15 is also a good option, very resistant to stone chips also, as the racer has been though a few gravel traps, and none has come off.

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Friday 13th May 2016
quotequote all
Used (white) Rustoleum on the last one, still have some left so I'm going to carry on with that.
POR15 will give me a headache unless I use a respirator.
The chassis has got white powder coat, the photos maybe didn't show too clearly, the rest of it is like a new(er) car, the sills had about a kilo of mud in there which rotted the outriggers, I've not seen any rot elsewhere.
If the rest of it is ok it won't need blasting which means I won't need to pull the engine, I can just sort the running gear, bushes, brake and fuel lines etc. It's so far gone in places stuff has just turned to dust, steering rack gaiter has just flaked off.
Question: I've got a piece of 4"x2"posted through the rear wheel arches to lift at the rear, the front looks tight for space, will the same be ok to lift the front? & fuel tanks stay in the tub right?

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Friday 13th May 2016
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Hi Alan....It seems that most of the Wedges that had that white/Grey powder coating have stood the test of time...My 280i (1982) had the same and it looked brand new in places...I think the riggers may of been okay as well..

I need to remove the sills on the 350i...I don't think i will be as lucky...

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Friday 13th May 2016
quotequote all
I just can't fathom how so much mud got in there in so few miles. Last Mot ran out 24 years ago.
Drill the pop rivets Zig at least you can clean it and you'll know where it's atsmile

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Friday 13th May 2016
quotequote all
Alan461 said:
I just can't fathom how so much mud got in there in so few miles. Last Mot ran out 24 years ago.
Drill the pop rivets Zig at least you can clean it and you'll know where it's atsmile
I have a friend with a lift who is going to give me a hand doing the sills, We plan to fit rib-nuts so that the sills can be removed from time to time and the out riggers serviced.

At the last MOT in November my inspector said the plates are looking a little rusty so hopefully thats all it is...I do need to get in there and remove as much crud and address what i can...Talking of "Crud" i think i may well have a dollop of that from my recent off road experience in Poppy...: (

KKson

3,395 posts

124 months

Friday 13th May 2016
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mrzigazaga said:
I have a friend with a lift who is going to give me a hand doing the sills, We plan to fit rib-nuts so that the sills can be removed from time to time and the out riggers serviced.

At the last MOT in November my inspector said the plates are looking a little rusty so hopefully thats all it is...I do need to get in there and remove as much crud and address what i can...Talking of "Crud" i think i may well have a dollop of that from my recent off road experience in Poppy...: (
Mark, just get Poppy to the Wedge fest and don't try to sort anything out before then. Got the drivers seat and dash loose on the 390SE tonight - not good news - a few more jobs on the list. I had a small hope that the black Wedge would be coming to the BBWF but now looking even more doubtful. How the heck this car got an MOT last year is beyond me.......

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Friday 13th May 2016
quotequote all
KKson said:
Mark, just get Poppy to the Wedge fest and don't try to sort anything out before then. Got the drivers seat and dash loose on the 390SE tonight - not good news - a few more jobs on the list. I had a small hope that the black Wedge would be coming to the BBWF but now looking even more doubtful. How the heck this car got an MOT last year is beyond me.......
Oh bugger....One thing is for sure about Wedges...There are cans of worms everywhere...eek
I saw my rear brake pads when i was addressing the fuel pump wire the other day...They look low but the MOT passed them and he knows what to look for...With hindsight i would of bought one of the many wonderful big V8 Wedges i was offered when i had my inheritance and had a body off...Engine build...Re-trim....blabla...Having nowhere to keep them other than on the street didn't help.

There is a guy down the road from me who manages to get an MOT every year without even moving his car...Which in fact doesn't work cos he killed it....It does get polished every day come rain or shine...In fact when it rains he is out there with a floor mop...laugh....

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Saturday 14th May 2016
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They changed the rules on pads a couple of years ago - now they are Ok unless they are down to the metal. The rears take ages to wear down anyway yours are probably good for a few more years.

looking at this thread I am sure I will do my sills in stainless when the time comes.... fit and forget.

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Saturday 14th May 2016
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great day lifting the fixie body.
LawrieS gave me a hand, spotting stretched cables etc.
Got about 100mm lift which doesn't seem a lot but should be all clear for another metre later.
Took a bit of effort to get the front two m10 bolts forward of the radiator clear of the body

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Sunday 15th May 2016
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Body's stuck fast on the top rails of the chassis adjacent to the exhaust manifolds,
needs to shuffle back a bit to clear it's self right?

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Saturday 21st May 2016
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mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Saturday 21st May 2016
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clap.....Looking good...This was how i was planning to lift FHC No.2 when me and a fellow Wedger owned it...The garage wasn't very wide but high enough and had reinforced beams that reportedly could support a 1000kg each...This way the chassis could be rolled in and out or stripped to be sent off for blasting and painting...Good luck with....Ziga

Alan461

Original Poster:

853 posts

130 months

Sunday 22nd May 2016
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Bit of a boring photo but this is the worst of the rot I've found so far other than the now replaced outriggers.
The previous owner has painted the rear section black which I'm going to remove and repaint white.
No need for this to go to the blasters, most of the powder coat is good and has shiny metal underneath.
I've damaged one of the tanks during the lift, fuel return was connected and broke the spigot connection.
I'm wondering if the hole can be plugged and the return plumbed into one of the link pipes in that area?



Wedg1e

26,760 posts

264 months

Tuesday 24th May 2016
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If you read around the internet there are all sorts of suggestions for welding petrol tanks... in my case they'd been empty for two years and I purged the tank I was working on with Argon before I fired up the plasma torch.
The usual suggestion is to plug all the holes and fill with water to just below where you need to weld, that way there's insufficient volume for the fumes to be an issue - although I have never tried it!

You're right in theory; if you could reliably plug the hole and splice into one of the other lines it'd work but the idea is that warm/hot fuel returning from the fuel rail enters the tank as far away from the tank outlet as possible to allow it to cool with the main body of liquid in the tank. One might hypothesise that returning hot fuel just above the point where it's about to be drawn off could compromise performance, but it'd need cleverer heads than mine to calculate any actual effect.