My new car! 1998 Ford Mondeo ST24 2.5 V6

My new car! 1998 Ford Mondeo ST24 2.5 V6

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Discussion

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
quotequote all
UIM = upper inlet manifold?

Tried the WD-40, did nothing!

Podie

46,630 posts

276 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
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SD1992 said:
UIM = upper inlet manifold?

Tried the WD-40, did nothing!
Hmm... sounds like this could be a tough one to crack

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
quotequote all
Podie said:
Hmm... sounds like this could be a tough one to crack
My mate who is a mechanic has offered to sort it out, so he can re wire the IMRC and maybe clean out the inlet manifold smile

Fingers crossed I guess, I hope it works! At least I know the board is ok.

Rollcage

11,327 posts

193 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
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If you take the water pump cover off, you get a decent view of the secondary actuator - with the car cold have a look when the engine is at idle and then rev it by hand into the actuation zone - you should see them move across.If they work OK , then take the car for a good run, get the engine up to temp and generate some heat, let it idle for a while and then repeat the test to see if the actuators are working. If not, it suggests the IMRC box is goosed, as they begin to degrade with heat.

If it isn't working at all, then take off the top of the IMRC box and have a look at the state of the gears and stuff - it's easy enough to rig up a simple test lamp to see if the box is getting the correct signal.

If yours is working intermittently, then to me that would suggest an electrical rather than mechanical fault. The wiring is also notoriously brittle, due to the heat issue over time.


It might be worth taking the UIM off and giving it a good clean, and this will give you access to the LIM and the secondaries, so you can see what's going on. I wish I had taken some pictures when I took mine all apart now.

It's easy enough to do if you have basic tools - there is a guide on the Ford Mondeo Wiki somewhere.

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
quotequote all
I will pass that info on to my mechanic mate, thanks! smile

Here is a photo of inside the box and the connectors:




Big thank you to everyone that has contributed by the way, all the information is much appreciated smile

Zad

12,704 posts

237 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
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I think at this point, I would solder 2 wires onto the motor, and attach a small 12V lamp onto them, which will illuminate when the electronics try to activate the valves. If it lights and the valves don't open then its a mechanical problem.

Rollcage

11,327 posts

193 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
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Difficult to be definitive, but some of them joint do look a bit iffy. Incidentally, wrapping the IMRC unit in plenty of tinfoil will help keep it cooler!

Podie

46,630 posts

276 months

Monday 1st August 2011
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Rollcage said:
Difficult to be definitive, but some of them joint do look a bit iffy. Incidentally, wrapping the IMRC unit in plenty of tinfoil will help keep it cooler!
It could be the Ford connector block. I had headlight problems, and it was corroded contacts.

The IMRC can easily be re-located to under the battery tray - which is a lot cooler.

Zad

12,704 posts

237 months

Monday 1st August 2011
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The only iffy looking joints are the ones the bloke replacing the transistor sweated up I think. They aren't iffy as such, it is just the flux from the solder which has sweated out, from the photo I can't see any dry joints. As mentioned before, part of the loom which leads to the IMRC can get damaged, so it is worth tracing it back past the engine to see if the insulation has cracked and allowing a short circuit.

Do you have a Haynes manual for it? it should be possible to fake the signals the unit normally receives at WOT and >3750 rpm, in order to check the IMRC operation.

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Saturday 6th August 2011
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Just thought I would update this - I have been in touch with an auto electrician who is happy to help out, so will get that sorted at some point in the next 2 weeks.

Also, I have decided that I am not going to put off something I have wanted to do since I was 8 any longer - and turn the ST24 into a track / road rally car! I did the Ferrari and rally experience days at Knockhill and the bug has well and truly bitten biggrin

I won't be doing anything major to it, or entering any major competitions just strip most of the interior, decat, air filter etc. And of course, a 24" PH smiley! I want to get into trackdays and road rallys, and I figured since I am only young once I might as well go for it!

What do you guys think?

Rollcage

11,327 posts

193 months

Saturday 6th August 2011
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TBH, I could think of better cars to turn into a track slag, but if you want to do it, then do it!

I did it with an XR4x4 track car, and had great fun.

Zad

12,704 posts

237 months

Saturday 6th August 2011
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I think stripping all the sound deadening from it would be a mistake. Driving more than 15 minutes in a stripped out car really does your noddle in, even more so when you start crashing around over traffic calming.

I would ask your insurers about doing any performance mods before you wade in and start altering stuff.

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Saturday 6th August 2011
quotequote all
Like I said, wouldn't be anything too major. I would probably just leave the soundproofing in smile

Do you have to declare things like removing back seats etc?

I know it is not the ideal car, but I have it, and it does handle very well and is quick enough so I think it would be a fun starting point smile

FlashBastd

291 posts

191 months

Sunday 7th August 2011
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In all honesty (and I do love ST24's), you would be better starting with something smaller and lighter. Last TD I was on there was a guy in an Escort GTi (which I hope was running a 2.0) and it was surprisingly quick. Not a patch on an ST24 on the road, but on a track it was probably better suited. Plus brakes, suspension, etc. would be cheaper for a lighter car.

It is your car, so what you do with it is entirely down to you, but I would be concerned that you will ruin in and still not have a great track car.

If it were me, I would consider something like Saxo/106 VTS/GTi, Fiesta, Escort, Clio, MX-5, that sort of size car.

nanospaghetti

4 posts

153 months

Sunday 7th August 2011
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nice job

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Sunday 7th August 2011
quotequote all
FlashBastd said:
In all honesty (and I do love ST24's), you would be better starting with something smaller and lighter. Last TD I was on there was a guy in an Escort GTi (which I hope was running a 2.0) and it was surprisingly quick. Not a patch on an ST24 on the road, but on a track it was probably better suited. Plus brakes, suspension, etc. would be cheaper for a lighter car.

It is your car, so what you do with it is entirely down to you, but I would be concerned that you will ruin in and still not have a great track car.

If it were me, I would consider something like Saxo/106 VTS/GTi, Fiesta, Escort, Clio, MX-5, that sort of size car.
If I were starting from scratch, that is exactly what I would do. Thing is, I would probably have great difficulty selling it on again for any sort of money because it is not the sort of car people are looking to buy.

My logic - it already has good seats, and firm suspension, and decent brakes. I hardly paid anything for it (£800), and I would like to get into learning mechanics of cars.

I won't be spending any major cash on it - just using it as something to get started with. smile

SD1992

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Friday 26th August 2011
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Update!

Recently did a big road trip in this car, and decided it was too good to confine to track use, so I am just going to do some simple mods and keep it is a brilliant road and occasional track car.

The road trip was not without fault though, at the top of the Applecross road it somehow managed to snap a bolt in the gear linkage mechanism, meaning that the car was stuck in first and the gearstick did nothing!

Ended up nursing it down and into a layby near Lochcarron and calling the AA out. Got the car recovered back to Inverness eventually, and set to work on it the next day.

Was pretty major surgery, will get some photos up later on. It turned out that we could not source the bolt anywhere and Ford only sold the whole unit for £400!! Just by luck the workshop next to us had the ability to make a copy of the original (after we had drilled it out) so I got a new one made up, put everything back together, and the car is now fine!

Quite a scary thought though, as if that happened to 95% of car owners who just put the car into a garage to fix, they would have just scrapped the car for the sake of one bolt frown

BorkFactor

Original Poster:

7,266 posts

159 months

Wednesday 21st March 2012
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I guess I should update this for anyone that is interested - car is now sold frown

I took it off the road as I wasn't using it at uni, and my mate soon offered me £700 for it with no tax or MOT.

Currently running well - it needed the inner rear arch done for the MOT, and he also managed to poke a hole in the rusty spare wheel well which is now replaced.

Rear subframe bushes will need done at some point, there is a misting of oil from one shock, and he managed to crack the exhaust manifold so a full stainless set will be going on smile

Really enjoyed my time in this car, and every time he takes me out in it I regret selling it! IMRC is still temperamental, but it is still a wonderful car.

Oh, and it is his first car at 19 yikes

Will keep this updated periodically in cast anyone is interested, need to get him posting on here!