My VVC Metro

Author
Discussion

rhinochopig

17,932 posts

198 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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SlowStig said:
Whats wrong with skully? He does look awesome when lit up at night!

The car isn't that low any more, local lotus specialist was chatting to me and advised a good setup on the suspension and ARB's which have made it handle tons better which I am quite impressed with. Oh and I have stuffed a couple of metros, this is the results of one rolling:


That slowed me down and made me drive a lot more sensible as well as much more responsibly when others are in the car or others are on the same road.
Indeed, if you go too low, you alter the roll-centre which can actually make the car want to roll more. It becomes a vicious circle as then people fit stiffer ARBs to compensate which makes the handling even less compliant and generally worse.

RobCrezz

7,892 posts

208 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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Ugly little buggers, but I bet its rapid with that power to weight ratio!

I would possibly be tempted to get a cage after seeing that pic though!

SteveS Cup

1,996 posts

160 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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I love that!

I have a friend who stuck a 140bhp VVC lump into his 3 door metro but he wrote it off in the wet, he's now put the engine in a 5 door metro!

Apparently LSD's from the BRM's go fairly cheap too.

If you don't mind me asking, what has it actually cost?

mgmrw

20,951 posts

157 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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I've been tempted for ages to do a simillar build.... always appealed.

For me, I'd choose a proper ratty £100 metro as a base car, just for sheer giggle factor, strip the interior and track it

SlowStig

Original Poster:

839 posts

171 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
quotequote all
Cheers for the comments! It has been a fun project, took it on a bypass today for the first time and was quite surprised at how quick it hit *ahem* 70...

Insurance is costing me 830 per year with brenacre £1500 agreed value. 24, 3 years NCB and dodgy postcode but the policy is limited by power, not modifications so any handling or interior mods like a cage do not cost extra but if i touch the engine then it does. Much better system imo for a modified car as they keep a list of mods so they can replace like-for-like if the worst happened without it affecting the policy costs.

In total, the car has cost me less than 2k to do but I did it cheaply by buying a knackered car with a lot of the mods for £250 and stripping it then scrapping the shell, saving me about £400 on bits and pieces. Car was £650 but was only on around 50k miles and never welded(until now) with original arches which was a bargin.

My next plan is a 5 door, rust and odd coloured doors, crappy interior, caged with wide steel wheels and odd trims and either another VVC or a 1.8 turbo fitted to it.

SteveS Cup

1,996 posts

160 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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Is the 140vvc a lot cheaper than the MGZR 160vvc lump?

I think it could be a cool toy to have a long side something a bit boring (potentially a cheap way of having a toy / daily).

mgmrw

20,951 posts

157 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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IIRC It starts life as the 135 TF engine does it not? So change from a grand for engine, box and loom if you're talking "retail" price.

SlowStig

Original Poster:

839 posts

171 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
quotequote all
There was 2 versions of the VVC engine, the one I have fitted is the earlier MEMS2j version which is around 143bhp standard(hense the name) with a plastic 48mm throttle body.
The second one is the 160bhp from the MGF trophy, MGTF160 and the MGZR 160. This is MEMS3 management system and has a different throttle body, tri cut valves and a different exhaust manifold(6 bolt vs 4bold on the 143).
The MGTF 135 engine is different again as they are a variation on the standard 1.8 which is found in freelanders, mgf etc but only 118bhp as standard. the 135 engine has a bigger inlet from a VVC 160, 52mm throttle body and different cams which give the extra 17bhp difference.

The difference in price is significant, I got my engine VERY cheap but roughly £300-400 for a decent 143 or £500-600 for a 160 with the ecu/5as/fob/loom and if its going into a metro then you need the loom converting for around £40-60.


They are quite a common conversion just not well known about due to the image metro's have compared to other hatches but yet even as standard, they are quick for the insurance group and if looked after(not ragged from cold etc) then they make pretty good first cars as there is no driver aids such as PAS or ABS so teach proper control and how to brake without locking up.

SteveS Cup

1,996 posts

160 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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Agreed, the GTI is quick enough with just the 1.4! My brother had a 214 SEi as a 2nd car... 105bhp and it felt quick enough!

My first car was a 106 xsi 1.4 8v with 105bhp, the Metro and Polo 16v were the 2 competitors to it!

To sum up, you could have a 160bhp Metro for under £2k? Blimey! Must be quite a tool!

How much are upgraded parts???? As I'm presuming you can't just chuck a VVC in a metro and expect it to stop!?

mgmrw

20,951 posts

157 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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SteveS Cup said:
My brother had a 214 SEi as a 2nd car... 105bhp and it felt quick enough!
had one of them, and a fettled MG ZR with same lump. as long as you drove them hard, they were quick enough for fun

Chunkychucky

5,955 posts

169 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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y2blade said:
I love it cool it would be a very dull place if everyone here got frothy over MX5s rolleyes


good lad smile
yes or mapped BMW diesels. Nicely modified, and a real nice road burner, good job.

mrtwisty

3,057 posts

165 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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I bet that's more fun than a barrel full of coked-up monkey hookers! Jealous.

SlowStig

Original Poster:

839 posts

171 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
quotequote all
SteveS Cup said:
To sum up, you could have a 160bhp Metro for under £2k? Blimey! Must be quite a tool!

How much are upgraded parts???? As I'm presuming you can't just chuck a VVC in a metro and expect it to stop!?
Well you could if you knew what you were doing and had a plan from the start. This is my 5th metro so I know what i do and dont like and what are good upgrades and what are a waste of money.

you can buy a ready-made VVC metro for between 1k and 1500 but unless its been done by somebody properly I would be quite wary of one as it's not difficult to drop a vvc in but getting the handling and brakes sorted is the biggest issue. I sorted them before going for a bigger engine so then I knew it would handle the power. The standard solid disk brakes on a metro does stop a vvc but warp so quickly that its not worth it as they start getting brake fade very quickly.

vit4

3,507 posts

170 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
quotequote all
SlowStig said:
Cheers for the comments! It has been a fun project, took it on a bypass today for the first time and was quite surprised at how quick it hit *ahem* 70...

Insurance is costing me 830 per year with brenacre £1500 agreed value. 24, 3 years NCB and dodgy postcode but the policy is limited by power, not modifications so any handling or interior mods like a cage do not cost extra but if i touch the engine then it does. Much better system imo for a modified car as they keep a list of mods so they can replace like-for-like if the worst happened without it affecting the policy costs.

In total, the car has cost me less than 2k to do but I did it cheaply by buying a knackered car with a lot of the mods for £250 and stripping it then scrapping the shell, saving me about £400 on bits and pieces. Car was £650 but was only on around 50k miles and never welded(until now) with original arches which was a bargin.

My next plan is a 5 door, rust and odd coloured doors, crappy interior, caged with wide steel wheels and odd trims and either another VVC or a 1.8 turbo fitted to it.
Excellent regarding insurance... as soon as that bank balance has got a bit in it I'll be on the lookout. I was worried because of being modified companies would charge silly money smile

Love the 5 door idea, must admit I've wondered why it hasn't already been done, is there a reason? confused I know the GTI shells have strengthening plates in the strut tops IIRC (don't quote me on the exact location though!) but surely they're not too tricky to add afterwards? smile

PHSeb

368 posts

169 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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Well how about that, I've just got myself one of these too.





They really are fun aren't they, loving mine so far and good to see more of them on PH smile

mgmrw

20,951 posts

157 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
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where are you boys finding them?

I've been scouring that there auction site for a while in hope.

(that said I'd actually need a winning bidder to pay for once, or even turn up to view)

SlowStig

Original Poster:

839 posts

171 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
quotequote all
mgmrw said:
where are you boys finding them?

I've been scouring that there auction site for a while in hope.

(that said I'd actually need a winning bidder to pay for once, or even turn up to view)
Mine was built, not brought wink

Goto www.http://metropower.org.uk/forum/category-view.a...

Check out the site for ideas and the for sale topic usually has a few for sale now and again. My mate just sold his one for 1200 as he wanted a quick sale. Just make sure you get one which has been properly done, any bodges will come to light sooner rather than later and most cars will have been bodged somehow. Mine had bathroom sealant holding the exhaust mid to the cat for example...

mgmrw

20,951 posts

157 months

Wednesday 7th September 2011
quotequote all
thanks. Even finding a 1400cc standard one was a mission that weren't scrap goods.

Aware of bodging, my 200SX was a proper "buyer should of been aware" jobby.

Garage compressor valve as a boost controller anyone?

Or how about the 5quid dump valve that blew up.

And lest we forget the home-done respray in Royal Nail red with brush marks

SlowStig

Original Poster:

839 posts

171 months

Thursday 8th September 2011
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Bloody hell, thats impressive bodges!

My rear brakes were non-exsistant until I found that the slave cylinders were shot and the pads had been fitted the wrong way around so were not engaging. Plus, a small part of my floor had been filled with bathroom sealant so I have no idea how on earth it passed the MOT last year but I have sorted everything out with either new or refurbed parts so should be ok for a while hopefully!

My floor contained this stuff:


Which was covering up:


The crap I removed:



You can prob guess I wasn't a happy chap and slated the previous owner on MP with the pics and nobody has seen him on there since!

mgmrw

20,951 posts

157 months