Father, son and a V8
Discussion
I think for your electrics, the best thing's going to be a haynes book of jokes (there's one on automotive electrics that's not bad), a multimeter and a test lamp.
Not to sound trite, but the car's electrics would have been fine when it was made, so the thing is going to be finding where things have deteriorated over the years and fixing them. Lots of electrical faults are caused by bad earths, so hunt out the earthing points, clean them and smarm them in conductive grease.
Not to sound trite, but the car's electrics would have been fine when it was made, so the thing is going to be finding where things have deteriorated over the years and fixing them. Lots of electrical faults are caused by bad earths, so hunt out the earthing points, clean them and smarm them in conductive grease.
I'm going to go one better and get it rewired by a pro, are local to me and seem to have a good reputation. My reasoning is time available and the fact that if I did it, I would simply be doing the same bodge jobs done by other people in the past.
With the wiring sorted (needed before the MOT), I can then purchase a bunch of suspension parts, then the seat belts, then the exhaust, then the body work and respray and then the wheels and the tyres.
Its only money right?
With the wiring sorted (needed before the MOT), I can then purchase a bunch of suspension parts, then the seat belts, then the exhaust, then the body work and respray and then the wheels and the tyres.
Its only money right?
Edited by LincolnLovin on Tuesday 26th January 11:53
Edited by LincolnLovin on Tuesday 12th April 12:31
So another Sunday has passed, I managed to snatch a few hours to work on the Lincoln. The current mission is to strip out the car so that the Electrician can get access to the areas needed to rewire the car.
This greeted me when I arrived:
This is either the drivers side wheel being porous or the tyre is shagged, I actually suspect its both. The tyres are very very old and have cracked in places and the wheels are all in need of a good refurb.
20 minutes later (I left my electric pump in the Saab which is still in the garage getting the instrument cluster replaced) and the Town car is back on level ground.
I proceeded to remove the rear bench, which was suprisingly easy - you just yank it off, though I am not sure if that is such a good feature in retrospect. It looks like the heavy rains of the last few months have not done the right hand side of the car many favours as there is some water ingress somewhere (in-spite of the car being under a cover):
It doesn't look too severe, I have left the carpets raised to see if that helps dry them out and also show where the car is leaking. Though with the build quality of this car (more on that later), there are a number of potential gaps that the water could access the interior via.
Anyhow, no fist sized holes are clearly a good thing - I had visions of lifting the carpet and seeing concrete.
One of the areas that I'd like the electrician to focus on is the under dash area, which has suffered from a number of head unit and random fog light installs over the years. This requires removal of the front of the dashboard.
Did someone say walnut?
Clearly not:
Speaking of paint, this car has had quite a few different colours in its time:
It was originally white (I think), then a lurid lime green and then its present matt black.
I also fitted some replacement orange indicator bulbs, as the previous ones had been clear jobbies and so a tad illegal now that the clusters themselves were clear.
Finally I took a look at the 'head lamp doors', which are the plastic (metal?) surrounds for the headlights, they've been painted white as long as I have owned the car but I am pretty sure they are metal underneath:
So I wondered, why would you paint it white when there is clearly metal there:
It seems that in the past the metal coating on the plastic housing fell off (again with the build quality) and that would explain the prior paint job. I will likely do something similar (albeit better I hope), when I get round to sorting the bodywork:
This greeted me when I arrived:
This is either the drivers side wheel being porous or the tyre is shagged, I actually suspect its both. The tyres are very very old and have cracked in places and the wheels are all in need of a good refurb.
20 minutes later (I left my electric pump in the Saab which is still in the garage getting the instrument cluster replaced) and the Town car is back on level ground.
I proceeded to remove the rear bench, which was suprisingly easy - you just yank it off, though I am not sure if that is such a good feature in retrospect. It looks like the heavy rains of the last few months have not done the right hand side of the car many favours as there is some water ingress somewhere (in-spite of the car being under a cover):
It doesn't look too severe, I have left the carpets raised to see if that helps dry them out and also show where the car is leaking. Though with the build quality of this car (more on that later), there are a number of potential gaps that the water could access the interior via.
Anyhow, no fist sized holes are clearly a good thing - I had visions of lifting the carpet and seeing concrete.
One of the areas that I'd like the electrician to focus on is the under dash area, which has suffered from a number of head unit and random fog light installs over the years. This requires removal of the front of the dashboard.
Did someone say walnut?
Clearly not:
Speaking of paint, this car has had quite a few different colours in its time:
It was originally white (I think), then a lurid lime green and then its present matt black.
I also fitted some replacement orange indicator bulbs, as the previous ones had been clear jobbies and so a tad illegal now that the clusters themselves were clear.
Finally I took a look at the 'head lamp doors', which are the plastic (metal?) surrounds for the headlights, they've been painted white as long as I have owned the car but I am pretty sure they are metal underneath:
So I wondered, why would you paint it white when there is clearly metal there:
It seems that in the past the metal coating on the plastic housing fell off (again with the build quality) and that would explain the prior paint job. I will likely do something similar (albeit better I hope), when I get round to sorting the bodywork:
Edited by LincolnLovin on Tuesday 2nd February 09:14
Edited by LincolnLovin on Tuesday 2nd February 09:15
Edited by LincolnLovin on Tuesday 2nd February 09:15
Next parts order has been made, this is a full suspension refresh and long overdue:
1)Front shocks £32-80ea x2
2)Rear shocks £32-80ea x2
3)Upper ball joints £34-56ea x2
4)Lower ball joints £29-55ea x2
5)Upper arm bushes £10-40ea x4
6)Lower arm bushes £29-40ea x4
7)Front sway bar links £8-25ea x2
8)Idler arm £32-50
9)Pitman arm £38-48
10)Inner tie rod ends £13-70ea x2
11)Outer tie rod ends £16-90ea x2
12)Adj sleeves £14-90ea x2
Coming to a not insignificant £722.99, inc shipping and delivery.
The plan for the long weekend is to attempt to replace the exhaust headers, failing that begin to shore up the body work, the headlight wiring and maybe have a go at refurbing the wheels
1)Front shocks £32-80ea x2
2)Rear shocks £32-80ea x2
3)Upper ball joints £34-56ea x2
4)Lower ball joints £29-55ea x2
5)Upper arm bushes £10-40ea x4
6)Lower arm bushes £29-40ea x4
7)Front sway bar links £8-25ea x2
8)Idler arm £32-50
9)Pitman arm £38-48
10)Inner tie rod ends £13-70ea x2
11)Outer tie rod ends £16-90ea x2
12)Adj sleeves £14-90ea x2
Coming to a not insignificant £722.99, inc shipping and delivery.
The plan for the long weekend is to attempt to replace the exhaust headers, failing that begin to shore up the body work, the headlight wiring and maybe have a go at refurbing the wheels
5ohmustang said:
I have not read the full thread but that looks like a gt40/explorer/5.0 mustang intake manifold. 80s American luxary cars are so nice when looked after. I'd like an 80s Buick Riveria with 1st generation touch screen entertainment center.
Sadly not the GT40/Explorer intake just yet - its on the list 
This thread is awesome!
I lost my dad over 10 years ago (when I was 23!) and just as I started a new job. A job that enabled me to order a brand new RS Megane 225, which I did.
I still have that car (in my garage) with the number plate both my parents bought me for my 21st birthday so I can totally see a sentimentality to a car. Even more so in the case of the OP.
I lost my dad over 10 years ago (when I was 23!) and just as I started a new job. A job that enabled me to order a brand new RS Megane 225, which I did.
I still have that car (in my garage) with the number plate both my parents bought me for my 21st birthday so I can totally see a sentimentality to a car. Even more so in the case of the OP.
Congratulations, OP, on being selected as car of the week, here on PH. Touching story. And an interesting journey.
I always thought that the last generation of Town Car (it's been off the market for about five years now), was worthy of export. And, apparently, Lincoln did have a sizable, if also somewhat passive, export business. Seems a no-brainer, given the price / value. It's also somewhat restrained in appearance.
The LWB "Executive L" version for example. A cabin generous of proportion, but without the naff "stretched" format.
I always thought that the last generation of Town Car (it's been off the market for about five years now), was worthy of export. And, apparently, Lincoln did have a sizable, if also somewhat passive, export business. Seems a no-brainer, given the price / value. It's also somewhat restrained in appearance.
The LWB "Executive L" version for example. A cabin generous of proportion, but without the naff "stretched" format.
unsprung said:
Congratulations, OP, on being selected as car of the week, here on PH. Touching story. And an interesting journey.
I always thought that the last generation of Town Car (it's been off the market for about five years now), was worthy of export. And, apparently, Lincoln did have a sizable, if also somewhat passive, export business. Seems a no-brainer, given the price / value. It's also somewhat restrained in appearance.
The LWB "Executive L" version for example. A cabin generous of proportion, but without the naff "stretched" format.
My understanding is these are largely based on the same mechanicals as the Mercury Grand Marquis and Ford Crown Victoria, but with much nicer trim and body finish. When I lived in the US these were still the standard vehicle for airport limos. The company I used to take me to and from Houston airport had several of these. I remember always being pleased when a nice Lincoln Town Car showed up. Much more comfy than their Cadillacs, Chevy Suburbans or indeed the newer Lincoln "MKT" that replaced the beloved Town Car. When I left in January 2015 it seemed like most of the police cars were still Crown Vics, and so spare parts should be both plentiful and extremely cheap, especially for the driveline suspension and brakes etc. I always thought that the last generation of Town Car (it's been off the market for about five years now), was worthy of export. And, apparently, Lincoln did have a sizable, if also somewhat passive, export business. Seems a no-brainer, given the price / value. It's also somewhat restrained in appearance.
The LWB "Executive L" version for example. A cabin generous of proportion, but without the naff "stretched" format.
Yes they are all based upon the "panther" platform. P71 for short wheelbase and p73 for long.
The platform was in production from 1978 until 2011.
Similar to the land rover, the same basic chassis with the body on top evolving over the years.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Panther_platfor...
The platform was in production from 1978 until 2011.
Similar to the land rover, the same basic chassis with the body on top evolving over the years.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Panther_platfor...
Edited by skyrover on Saturday 26th March 06:57
They all use the same engine either the asthmatic 150bhp 5.0 windsor in the 80s or the improved 280-300bhp 4.6 V8 depending on the age.
In spite of the hangover yesterday I did crack open the box containing the headers that I've had in the garage for nearly a year and they seem mostly ok but I am surprised at quality (casting/welding line remain inside), so will need to get the wire cutters/sander out to clean it up prior to install.
Still they look shiny which is the most important bit and they are a step up from my secondhand £10 mustang headers but not much (I think they came to around £75 inc shipping) and hopefully should clear the exhaust blow.
In spite of the hangover yesterday I did crack open the box containing the headers that I've had in the garage for nearly a year and they seem mostly ok but I am surprised at quality (casting/welding line remain inside), so will need to get the wire cutters/sander out to clean it up prior to install.
Still they look shiny which is the most important bit and they are a step up from my secondhand £10 mustang headers but not much (I think they came to around £75 inc shipping) and hopefully should clear the exhaust blow.
Edited by LincolnLovin on Saturday 26th March 08:20
Edited by LincolnLovin on Saturday 26th March 09:53
Edited by LincolnLovin on Saturday 26th March 13:43
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