2 Door Range Rover project

[RobXjcoupe]

You may find the red oxide will peel quickly from the plastic. I know it’s a pain but you need to remove the red oxide, then use a plastic etch primer. The chrome spray usually needs a black undercoat before the chrome spray finish is applied.

[DonkeyApple]

RobXjcoupe said:

You may find the red oxide will peel quickly from the plastic. I know it’s a pain but you need to remove the red oxide, then use a plastic etch primer. The chrome spray usually needs a black undercoat before the chrome spray finish is applied.

Thanks. There’s no plastic. The lamp sections are diecast. To be honest, I’m half expecting the heat from the bulbs to mess up the paint.

[RobXjcoupe]

DonkeyApple said:

RobXjcoupe said:

You may find the red oxide will peel quickly from the plastic. I know it’s a pain but you need to remove the red oxide, then use a plastic etch primer. The chrome spray usually needs a black undercoat before the chrome spray finish is applied.

Thanks. There’s no plastic. The lamp sections are diecast. To be honest, I’m half expecting the heat from the bulbs to mess up the paint.

I know red hammerite burns off a brake light bulb. As a reflector it should be ok though

[DonkeyApple]

RobXjcoupe said:

DonkeyApple said:

RobXjcoupe said:

You may find the red oxide will peel quickly from the plastic. I know it’s a pain but you need to remove the red oxide, then use a plastic etch primer. The chrome spray usually needs a black undercoat before the chrome spray finish is applied.

Thanks. There’s no plastic. The lamp sections are diecast. To be honest, I’m half expecting the heat from the bulbs to mess up the paint.

I know red hammerite burns off a brake light bulb. As a reflector it should be ok though

It’s red oxide. I’ve been using it to key satin black on some stuff prior to baking after printing and it seems to produce a much tougher surface than just spraying on direct. Weirdly I’ve found the top coat bubbles without the undercoat but I’ve no idea why.

Let’s say getting the heater control fascia done was a ball ache of a learning curve.

If it fails then it’s back in the sand blaster and I’ll pop down to the village nutter for some tinfoil.

[C Lee Farquar]

These rear lights seem a bit slap dash in comparison to the rest of the build?

At the very least I was expecting you to have sourced some new stock from an itinerant Aborigine via bush telegraph.

[DonkeyApple]

C Lee Farquar said:

These rear lights seem a bit slap dash in comparison to the rest of the build?

At the very least I was expecting you to have sourced some new stock from an itinerant Aborigine via bush telegraph.

I did have to wade through a sea of nettles to get to the donor vehicle I took them off if that helps restore some faith?

It’s all a bit of an experiment. Quick blast in the cabinet, few coats of red oxide and the chrome paint due Thursday so if no pictures by the weekend then you’ll know it’s been a disaster.

[C Lee Farquar]

Adjourned until Saturday afternoon

[RobXjcoupe]

DonkeyApple said:

RobXjcoupe said:

DonkeyApple said:

RobXjcoupe said:

You may find the red oxide will peel quickly from the plastic. I know it’s a pain but you need to remove the red oxide, then use a plastic etch primer. The chrome spray usually needs a black undercoat before the chrome spray finish is applied.

Thanks. There’s no plastic. The lamp sections are diecast. To be honest, I’m half expecting the heat from the bulbs to mess up the paint.

I know red hammerite burns off a brake light bulb. As a reflector it should be ok though

It’s red oxide. I’ve been using it to key satin black on some stuff prior to baking after printing and it seems to produce a much tougher surface than just spraying on direct. Weirdly I’ve found the top coat bubbles without the undercoat but I’ve no idea why.

Let’s say getting the heater control fascia done was a ball ache of a learning curve.

If it fails then it’s back in the sand blaster and I’ll pop down to the village nutter for some tinfoil.

A few years back I repainted the inner part of a set of wheels. The wheel inners were back to bare aluminium and was advised to etch prime them before a gloss black top coat and polish.
5 years later they haven’t peeled, flaked what so ever. Now any refurbished aluminium parts I have are etch primed first. Steel is ok using a regular primer but the etch does what is says and I wouldn’t change that now. I get a good long lasting finish with regular rattle cans but always use an etch primer first

[DonkeyApple]

RobXjcoupe said:

DonkeyApple said:

RobXjcoupe said:

DonkeyApple said:

RobXjcoupe said:

You may find the red oxide will peel quickly from the plastic. I know it’s a pain but you need to remove the red oxide, then use a plastic etch primer. The chrome spray usually needs a black undercoat before the chrome spray finish is applied.

Thanks. There’s no plastic. The lamp sections are diecast. To be honest, I’m half expecting the heat from the bulbs to mess up the paint.

I know red hammerite burns off a brake light bulb. As a reflector it should be ok though

It’s red oxide. I’ve been using it to key satin black on some stuff prior to baking after printing and it seems to produce a much tougher surface than just spraying on direct. Weirdly I’ve found the top coat bubbles without the undercoat but I’ve no idea why.

Let’s say getting the heater control fascia done was a ball ache of a learning curve.

If it fails then it’s back in the sand blaster and I’ll pop down to the village nutter for some tinfoil.

A few years back I repainted the inner part of a set of wheels. The wheel inners were back to bare aluminium and was advised to etch prime them before a gloss black top coat and polish.
5 years later they haven’t peeled, flaked what so ever. Now any refurbished aluminium parts I have are etch primed first. Steel is ok using a regular primer but the etch does what is says and I wouldn’t change that now. I get a good long lasting finish with regular rattle cans but always use an etch primer first

Thanks. Red Oxide will be fine in this particular use because it is within a sealed environment. The core concern is whether the heat generated from the bulbs will have any material impact.

[DonkeyApple]

C Lee Farquar said:

Adjourned until Saturday afternoon

Yesterday saw a firm decision to move to Plan B with regards to the painting of the lights. Plan B fundamentally being constructed around the concept of ordering the correct paint second time around.

In the meantime, all the internal electrics are now complete and the tow hitch was back from the powder coaters so that was fitted. I wasn't going to originally have a tow hitch and had taken a very heavy, adjustable one off but this summer my children have fallen in love with camping and as I don't want to be lugging all the kit in and out of the car the plan is to keep it all in a trailer and just hitch it up and go to make my life easier.

I didn't particularly like the standard pressed plate type of hitch and the one that I have used is a wonderfully heavy duty thing that still manages to look quite slim/elegant. It originally arrived in the UK attached to a South African import so I am assuming that this is where it originated from as I've not seen the design before.





These pictures have also reminded me that I planned to replace the mudflaps as I should be able to remember what the car is so don't feel I need those reminders at each corner.

[DonkeyApple]

And just in case you find yourself pondering what the squiggles in the dust are on the upper tailgate, they are obviously the directions to the powder coaters.

[C Lee Farquar]

There seems to be a reassuring return to form with the tow bar at least Was it in Zola Budd's suitcase?

Is there a go to supplier of mudflaps? I'm down to my last one and would rather avoid Britpart

[DonkeyApple]

Would have been plenty of room as she clearly left all her shoes at home.

It’s a chunky thing. I reckon it lowers the centre of gravity sufficiently to not have to fold the rear seats down.

I don’t know about midflaps. I’ve a set of originals that I bought possibly ten years ago when I started buying stuff for this car!

[RobXjcoupe]

Had to take a late night pic of the tow hitch on the back mine. In my head it looked the same. Obviously not.

[C Lee Farquar]

I'm left feeling woefully inadequate in the towbar area. I have no idea where it came from, it needs a coat of paint and has an orange protrusion

[NomduJour]

If anyone has a spare set of the bolts and spacers for the factory STC8816 one, I'd be very happy to buy them:

[RobXjcoupe]

NomduJour said:

If anyone has a spare set of the bolts and spacers for the factory STC8816 one, I'd be very happy to buy them:

I could make some up, do you have any sizes or just a picture?

[DonkeyApple]

I think they are pretty generic bolts and with the part numbers do people like Famous not have them?

[NomduJour]

RobXjcoupe said:

I could make some up, do you have any sizes or just a picture?

Thank you, that’s very kind - think I’ve found some; was hoping to buy the lot rather than drilling bar for the spacers etc. Nowhere can source the bits separately, it seems.

[DonkeyApple]

I’ve one of those hitches on one of my donor wagons. I just took the rear bolts off it last week for the system I fitted to mine.

What are the exact bits that you need as apart from the fact that I tried to remove it to fit to another car for an emergency random ebay puchase collection and failed as a bumper bolt was seized, I do have all the bits.

I’ve also a full Dixon Bate adjustable system that I removed from my 72. Galvanised and not looking like it’s ever been used but sitting there desperate to tow an aircraft carrier. Serious kit for shifting donkeys and mothers in law.