Trimph Spitfire first car!
Discussion
Wacky Racer said:
Just come across this excellent thread, very interesting.
I had a Mk 4 1300cc Spitfire in Pimento red from new in 1973, lovely little car, easy to work on, wish I still had it, but it's now gone to the great scrapyard in the sky.....
I will post up a picture hopefully if I can....
A picture would be great! Really I would be pretty pleased to see people post anything Spitfire on here!I had a Mk 4 1300cc Spitfire in Pimento red from new in 1973, lovely little car, easy to work on, wish I still had it, but it's now gone to the great scrapyard in the sky.....
I will post up a picture hopefully if I can....
well a slight update.. I have ordered Reconditioned Calipers and new braided hoses today, for when I get home.
New trolley jack, and a second set of axle stands are also arriving soon. - would a caliper winder be helpful in the long run?
I have also found the best thing in Home maintenance and car breaking (I helped someone break a old spitfire for parts) - a drill fitted with a 1/4" or 3/8" drive unit. Not enough torque to damage anything and requires loosening with a wrench, but makes things with long threads so much quicker! fantastic bit of kit and i found the drill bit too!
So the next job is to replace the front calipers, however the pads & disks are usable. I am going to check the shoes on the back at the same time, as the handbrake is very weak (although helpful in the garage, it makes hillstarts 'interesting'
)does anyone have any Idea what could be causing this?
Here are a few pics until I get some more when I'm home!
It does make shopping a bit more interesting, especially when its dwarfed by the trollies!
another example of its miniscule nature - I think this was the 1st time I ever went to the shop in it - in the dark too! It's actually quite some distance into the bay, but its a lot shorter than most cars are now!
Not great weather for roof down driving (yes I did get stuck on a road with no where to pull over in this - i had a puddle in my seat!)
Next to a Dihatsu something or other (It's grim and makes you seasick), shows just how tiny it it!
(gaffer-tape special tax disk holder is now replaced
)Handbrake often needs TLC on spitfires.
Check the read shoes are well adjusted and that there isn't loads of play in the cable.
There is adjustment where the cable attaches to the backplate and also behind the handbrake lever. If it's a mk4 I guess it has a gaitor u will need to remove to get to the adjuster. My 1500 has an armrest which you remove.
Check the read shoes are well adjusted and that there isn't loads of play in the cable.
There is adjustment where the cable attaches to the backplate and also behind the handbrake lever. If it's a mk4 I guess it has a gaitor u will need to remove to get to the adjuster. My 1500 has an armrest which you remove.
Spitfire2 said:
Handbrake often needs TLC on spitfires.
Check the read shoes are well adjusted and that there isn't loads of play in the cable.
There is adjustment where the cable attaches to the back plate and also behind the handbrake lever. If it's a mk4 I guess it has a gaitor u will need to remove to get to the adjuster. My 1500 has an armrest which you remove.
Yes I know I can get to the handbrake ok. could It be a side effect of the rear shoes being worn? I suspect its a slack cable though as it had a 'full brake overhaul' (although both calipers were shagged, and the fluid wasn't replaced. oh well at least I can do it properly now Check the read shoes are well adjusted and that there isn't loads of play in the cable.
There is adjustment where the cable attaches to the back plate and also behind the handbrake lever. If it's a mk4 I guess it has a gaitor u will need to remove to get to the adjuster. My 1500 has an armrest which you remove.
Agrispeed said:
Yes I know I can get to the handbrake ok. could It be a side effect of the rear shoes being worn? I suspect its a slack cable though as it had a 'full brake overhaul' (although both calipers were shagged, and the fluid wasn't replaced. oh well at least I can do it properly now
Yes - if they are really worn. Otherwise you can adjust out the wear with the adjuster.The cable can stretch too.
Agrispeed said:
Spitfire2 said:
Handbrake often needs TLC on spitfires.
Check the read shoes are well adjusted and that there isn't loads of play in the cable.
There is adjustment where the cable attaches to the back plate and also behind the handbrake lever. If it's a mk4 I guess it has a gaitor u will need to remove to get to the adjuster. My 1500 has an armrest which you remove.
Yes I know I can get to the handbrake ok. could It be a side effect of the rear shoes being worn? I suspect its a slack cable though as it had a 'full brake overhaul' (although both calipers were shagged, and the fluid wasn't replaced. oh well at least I can do it properly now Check the read shoes are well adjusted and that there isn't loads of play in the cable.
There is adjustment where the cable attaches to the back plate and also behind the handbrake lever. If it's a mk4 I guess it has a gaitor u will need to remove to get to the adjuster. My 1500 has an armrest which you remove.
Well gents, good and bad news...
The calipers fitted perfectly, with only some slight issues taking the old pipes of the bracket, all done now and looks great!
I picked up a trolly jack and axle stand set so now all 4 wheels are off the ground...
One brake drum is off, and it doesn't look very worn.
(the handbrake only pulls one side, is this normal?
I also don't know if this is standard but my car seems to have 1" spacers from the drum...
however, and a big one.
in gear, one rear hub doesn't spin, but the other side does, This isn't right is it?... The handbrake is also much weaker on this side, to the degree that brushing it was spinning the drum. The screws are also a bit borked and frozen and I cant get grip on them.One wheel nut has also been rounded at the tip in the past and I'm having difficulty getting the spacer back on, which could be fun.
what would be the next move on the screws?
The calipers fitted perfectly, with only some slight issues taking the old pipes of the bracket, all done now and looks great!
I picked up a trolly jack and axle stand set so now all 4 wheels are off the ground...
One brake drum is off, and it doesn't look very worn.
(the handbrake only pulls one side, is this normal?
I also don't know if this is standard but my car seems to have 1" spacers from the drum...
however, and a big one.
in gear, one rear hub doesn't spin, but the other side does, This isn't right is it?... The handbrake is also much weaker on this side, to the degree that brushing it was spinning the drum. The screws are also a bit borked and frozen and I cant get grip on them.One wheel nut has also been rounded at the tip in the past and I'm having difficulty getting the spacer back on, which could be fun.
what would be the next move on the screws?
nice to still you have the old girl.
you need an impact screw driver to remove the drums. if you cant do it with that just drill them out.
the spacers are not standard fit so not sure what thay are for if your using standard wheels.
then check the wheel cylinder for leaking.
to set up the rear shoes correctly you need to slacken the hand brake adjuster as much as posible then adjust the shoes out. if this has not been done for a long time it adjuster will prob have to be remover and free'd off.
refit the drums then adjust the shoes untill the drum spins with very slight drag from the shoes. then re adjust the cable to remove pay. you should not be moveing the handbrake levers in the drums by adjusting the cable. if you have to do this to make the handbrake work the shoes are not properly adjusted.
you need an impact screw driver to remove the drums. if you cant do it with that just drill them out.
the spacers are not standard fit so not sure what thay are for if your using standard wheels.
then check the wheel cylinder for leaking.
to set up the rear shoes correctly you need to slacken the hand brake adjuster as much as posible then adjust the shoes out. if this has not been done for a long time it adjuster will prob have to be remover and free'd off.
refit the drums then adjust the shoes untill the drum spins with very slight drag from the shoes. then re adjust the cable to remove pay. you should not be moveing the handbrake levers in the drums by adjusting the cable. if you have to do this to make the handbrake work the shoes are not properly adjusted.
Spitfire2 said:
It is fine that only one side spins when in gear in the air. Don't worry about that. Be very careful when car is running in gear in the air.
Don't like the spacers. Bin them if you don't need them. You don't have dodgy alloys do you. Dolomite sprint alloys will only fit with spacers.
From your pics you have standard wheels.definitely bin those spacers. Someone will pay for them on ebayDon't like the spacers. Bin them if you don't need them. You don't have dodgy alloys do you. Dolomite sprint alloys will only fit with spacers.
Agree that the screws will probably need drilling out.
Have a look at the diagram:
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram...
You'll need to make sure the cable is moving freely in 121699, and that the lever ass'y UKC1788 moves freely too.
The other diagrams on the Canley Classics site are useful for figuring out what should go where when you find evidence of bodgery, or when you've forgotten how it all fitted together...
Have a look at the diagram:
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram...
You'll need to make sure the cable is moving freely in 121699, and that the lever ass'y UKC1788 moves freely too.
The other diagrams on the Canley Classics site are useful for figuring out what should go where when you find evidence of bodgery, or when you've forgotten how it all fitted together...
Thanks for the advice everyone! I will write a better post later...
Well I got the hub off with some brute force, and no drilling nessary, the shoes were ok inside, but it had lots of oil in - not DOT, oil, which was odd. Anyway using my new toy (and very helpfull it is too) an air compressor, I masked up and blew all the dust and crap out of the mechanism (and the arch) and refitted the drums, which seem to be working now, if not I will attempt to adjust on the lever.
I now only need one new wheel stud, a I can refit the hubs. I will also see the difference with and without spacers, although god knows why they were there...
Bleeding is the next job, but unfortunately the eazibleed caps are too small so it looks like its a two man job. Luckily it looks relatively easy to do.
Clutch is squealing but I'm not sure if it's the release bearing or needs bleeding... We will see.
Prep for MOT next, it should be ok, just need to up the idle as it can cut out sometimes but no real issues.
Well I got the hub off with some brute force, and no drilling nessary, the shoes were ok inside, but it had lots of oil in - not DOT, oil, which was odd. Anyway using my new toy (and very helpfull it is too) an air compressor, I masked up and blew all the dust and crap out of the mechanism (and the arch) and refitted the drums, which seem to be working now, if not I will attempt to adjust on the lever.
I now only need one new wheel stud, a I can refit the hubs. I will also see the difference with and without spacers, although god knows why they were there...
Bleeding is the next job, but unfortunately the eazibleed caps are too small so it looks like its a two man job. Luckily it looks relatively easy to do.
Clutch is squealing but I'm not sure if it's the release bearing or needs bleeding... We will see.
Prep for MOT next, it should be ok, just need to up the idle as it can cut out sometimes but no real issues.
only just seen this thread. OP, you are doing things 100% the way I wish I had when starting out. Funnily enough, I was just chatting to a mates Dad at Ph Sunday Service about first cars. His was a Spitfire all those years ago. I was saying to him how I doubted it was possible to do that these days with insurance costs etc...top marks to you for managing to do so...excellent thread. Love the photos
hoppo4.2 said:
If the shoes have been contaminated with oil of any kind you must replace them !
Luckily none on the face, more around the mechanism and a paste of oil & dust on the mechanism... sorta glued everything together. I may buy new shoes anyway, they are so cheap. want to see if the handbrake is fixed first. New wheel stud and brake bleeding ( feckin' Eazibleed doesn't work) tomorrow.Lee540 said:
Cornish car? Sainsburys, Truro?
Yes, often makes people do a double take, sitting there (and makes a nice noise when you start it up) originally sold in Bodmin, then lived in Plymouth before coming home 
there are 2 I know of in Cornwall, although the other is faded red and a later MKIV, often see it in Falmouth. Clutch squeals when depressed, could it be a bleeding issue or is it release bearing etc?
Once, again, cheers for the help everyone, and I owe you all
Agrispeed said:
Yes, often makes people do a double take, sitting there (and makes a nice noise when you start it up) originally sold in Bodmin, then lived in Plymouth before coming home there are 2 I know of in Cornwall, although the other is faded red and a later MKIV, often see it in Falmouth.
Clutch squeals when depressed, could it be a bleeding issue or is it release bearing etc?
Once, again, cheers for the help everyone, and I owe you all
Easibleed isn't really a good thing IMO. The simple one way valves you can buy in halfords make brake bleeding an easy enough job for one. originally sold in Bodmin, then lived in Plymouth before coming home there are 2 I know of in Cornwall, although the other is faded red and a later MKIV, often see it in Falmouth. Clutch squeals when depressed, could it be a bleeding issue or is it release bearing etc?
Once, again, cheers for the help everyone, and I owe you all
Agrispeed said:
Clutch squeals when depressed, could it be a bleeding issue or is it release bearing etc
Probably the release bearing. Easy job on a Spit, though. Can be a bit weather dependent, so it might disappear when the damp weather stops, and sometimes just goes away anyway.
I'd live with it until you're sure it needs fixing.
N Dentressangle said:
Agrispeed said:
Clutch squeals when depressed, could it be a bleeding issue or is it release bearing etc
Probably the release bearing. Easy job on a Spit, though. Can be a bit weather dependent, so it might disappear when the damp weather stops, and sometimes just goes away anyway.
I'd live with it until you're sure it needs fixing.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff