TRD's Phase 1 Clio 172
Discussion
A new steering wheel should be winging its way to me as we speak.
Its a "leather style" one off a 172 complete with airbag and horn buttons (leather style as in it looks like leather but has actually been retrimmed in leather effect vinyl). It won't be as nice as the one above, but it looks a HELL of a lot better than practically any I've ever seen on a 172 as standard, even if it isn't melting.
£45.
Now, I assume that the process will be as follows:-
Disconnect battery, leave for 30 minutes.
Remove steering wheel with 6 allen screws
Slacken central nut and remove boss
Unclip airbag from steering wheel
Refit steering wheel with central nut.
Plug in airbag and horn
Clip the airbag unit back on.
Reconnect battery.
Any tips welcomed.
Its a "leather style" one off a 172 complete with airbag and horn buttons (leather style as in it looks like leather but has actually been retrimmed in leather effect vinyl). It won't be as nice as the one above, but it looks a HELL of a lot better than practically any I've ever seen on a 172 as standard, even if it isn't melting.
£45.
Now, I assume that the process will be as follows:-
Disconnect battery, leave for 30 minutes.
Remove steering wheel with 6 allen screws
Slacken central nut and remove boss
Unclip airbag from steering wheel
Refit steering wheel with central nut.
Plug in airbag and horn
Clip the airbag unit back on.
Reconnect battery.
Any tips welcomed.
Yeah it will look a lot better. Believe it or not, those mats are proper Renault Clio mats. But they do look hideous.
The wheel looks in good nick, and although not as nice as Mr Hat's above, it will at least suit the cars interior more (similar colour and style). And its not melted. Can't really afford a leather retrim at the mo, and not that bothered as long as it looks decent which I think it will.
Touch wood, since I forked out nearly £2K on mine 2 months ago, it has been reliable. However, I am well aware that these cars are always capable of throwing an unwanted bill or two your way. Touch wood, the gearbox and clutch seem OK on mine, and even the cold starting problem which was still present after spending all that money has actually gone away.
Hope you get yours sorted matey.
The wheel looks in good nick, and although not as nice as Mr Hat's above, it will at least suit the cars interior more (similar colour and style). And its not melted. Can't really afford a leather retrim at the mo, and not that bothered as long as it looks decent which I think it will.
Touch wood, since I forked out nearly £2K on mine 2 months ago, it has been reliable. However, I am well aware that these cars are always capable of throwing an unwanted bill or two your way. Touch wood, the gearbox and clutch seem OK on mine, and even the cold starting problem which was still present after spending all that money has actually gone away.
Hope you get yours sorted matey.
It seems to be that the list of jobs on these never ends doesnt it?I love my ph2 172 - bloody things seem to cost the earth though - had cambelt, dephaser, service, new brakes all round, spent £80 on blowing exhaust gasket repairs, now need top engine mount, dogbone mount, suspension top mount, 4 tyres. Thats another £400 on top of the £800 I spent in the last month or two, on a car that cost £1700.
Looks great now mate,very unchavy compared to what it was before,i thought you had enough spending money on it whats with the remap? 
Some people claim to get 200 bhp only with a remap (which imo its gains are ridiculous) and some internal engine job + exhaust.But seeing some vids around the net with these "200 bhp" 172s really get you to think how well they do keep up with much more powerful cars,so some right engine tweaking might give it impressive gains.
For dephaser/cambelt/aux belt maintenance works these cars can be a pita,especially when you own it in the end of these 3 years when these things should be changed.
Some people claim to get 200 bhp only with a remap (which imo its gains are ridiculous) and some internal engine job + exhaust.But seeing some vids around the net with these "200 bhp" 172s really get you to think how well they do keep up with much more powerful cars,so some right engine tweaking might give it impressive gains.
For dephaser/cambelt/aux belt maintenance works these cars can be a pita,especially when you own it in the end of these 3 years when these things should be changed.
Great! Well done of splashing the cash too. I had a new dephaser and therefore cam, aux and water pump done on mine Christmas week. I'd only done 30k miles since the belts had been changed last :-( one of the aux pulleys failed and the garage mentioned the car drove like s
t hence the further inspection.
Throw in the tax, 2 new tyres and a mot I was looking at the best part of £2k. Madness but I didn't have the cash to replace the car at the time.
Oh, the cat fell out a couple of months ago. There was another £400 to replace oem. Got lucky with that as Renault want £700 for just the part.
I've always wanted a 172 plate. If you ever get rid pm me and I'll make an offer for yours.
If anything else major goes on mine I'm burning the bloody thing out. 6 years and 117k miles of near perfect ownership but this year things have caught up with it.
Actually I'm off to the classifieds now. My blood pressure has gone up thinking about those bills!
t hence the further inspection. Throw in the tax, 2 new tyres and a mot I was looking at the best part of £2k. Madness but I didn't have the cash to replace the car at the time.
Oh, the cat fell out a couple of months ago. There was another £400 to replace oem. Got lucky with that as Renault want £700 for just the part.
I've always wanted a 172 plate. If you ever get rid pm me and I'll make an offer for yours.
If anything else major goes on mine I'm burning the bloody thing out. 6 years and 117k miles of near perfect ownership but this year things have caught up with it.
Actually I'm off to the classifieds now. My blood pressure has gone up thinking about those bills!
Hoygo said:
Looks great now mate,very unchavy compared to what it was before,i thought you had enough spending money on it whats with the remap?
Some people claim to get 200 bhp only with a remap (which imo its gains are ridiculous) and some internal engine job + exhaust.But seeing some vids around the net with these "200 bhp" 172s really get you to think how well they do keep up with much more powerful cars,so some right engine tweaking might give it impressive gains.
For dephaser/cambelt/aux belt maintenance works these cars can be a pita,especially when you own it in the end of these 3 years when these things should be changed.
Thanks mate.Some people claim to get 200 bhp only with a remap (which imo its gains are ridiculous) and some internal engine job + exhaust.But seeing some vids around the net with these "200 bhp" 172s really get you to think how well they do keep up with much more powerful cars,so some right engine tweaking might give it impressive gains.
For dephaser/cambelt/aux belt maintenance works these cars can be a pita,especially when you own it in the end of these 3 years when these things should be changed.
I know, once you start... but once I have the remaining items I want, I'll be leaving it alone and just enjoying it.
The remap I'm not expecting much more than 5-6 BHP increase, but what appeals to me about it is the promise of between 10 and 20% more torque at low revs, better smoothness and cold running and idling, and potentially another 500 rpm or so on the rev limit. Basically drivability improvements.
The cambelt etc, I checked the documentation and even though it had been done only about 15,000 miles previously, it was approaching the 4 year mark so it would have needed doing at some point. I was mistaken when I originally said 2 years ago.
I was half thinking of Eibachs, but some owners say that if you don't uprate the dampers, the uprated springs put more pressure on those and wear them out much faster, so if I was going to do that I'd get some Koni shocks too. As it, with the ARB it should eliminate body roll and reduce understeer at low speeds, but at the same time, actually ride well too; Once you add the shocks it becomes a relatively expensive upgrade.
Edited by TameRacingDriver on Sunday 26th August 16:42
TameRacingDriver said:
Tell me about it fella. I do like the car but if it tries to ruin me again I'll be back in an ITR or MX5 again lol.
Think mine will be up for sale now. Just had exhaust fixed, let the wife drive it, she says theres a funny noise. Exhaust blowing from centre section, and the clutch thrust bearing has gone. Another £400 of work. This will be the most serviced and repaired 172 in history, and will have a For Sale sign too at this rate.Impressed by the work on yours though - simple things like the steering wheel really make the difference.
TameRacingDriver said:
Thanks mate.
I know, once you start... but once I have the remaining items I want, I'll be leaving it alone and just enjoying it.
The remap I'm not expecting much more than 5-6 BHP increase, but what appeals to me about it is the promise of between 10 and 20% more torque at low revs, better smoothness and cold running and idling, and potentially another 500 rpm or so on the rev limit. Basically drivability improvements.
The cambelt etc, I checked the documentation and even though it had been done only about 15,000 miles previously, it was approaching the 4 year mark so it would have needed doing at some point. I was mistaken when I originally said 2 years ago.
I was half thinking of Eibachs, but some owners say that if you don't uprate the dampers, the uprated springs put more pressure on those and wear them out much faster, so if I was going to do that I'd get some Koni shocks too. As it, with the ARB it should eliminate body roll and reduce understeer at low speeds, but at the same time, actually ride well too; Once you add the shocks it becomes a relatively expensive upgrade.
Just fitted eibach sportlines to mine, great upgrade transforms the handling. Heard good things about he rs, tuner. I know, once you start... but once I have the remaining items I want, I'll be leaving it alone and just enjoying it.
The remap I'm not expecting much more than 5-6 BHP increase, but what appeals to me about it is the promise of between 10 and 20% more torque at low revs, better smoothness and cold running and idling, and potentially another 500 rpm or so on the rev limit. Basically drivability improvements.
The cambelt etc, I checked the documentation and even though it had been done only about 15,000 miles previously, it was approaching the 4 year mark so it would have needed doing at some point. I was mistaken when I originally said 2 years ago.
I was half thinking of Eibachs, but some owners say that if you don't uprate the dampers, the uprated springs put more pressure on those and wear them out much faster, so if I was going to do that I'd get some Koni shocks too. As it, with the ARB it should eliminate body roll and reduce understeer at low speeds, but at the same time, actually ride well too; Once you add the shocks it becomes a relatively expensive upgrade.
Edited by TameRacingDriver on Sunday 26th August 16:42
No further updates as yet but I have had a few thoughts.
Firstly, about the Whiteline ARB. These are very highly rated by most, so I have done some very detailed research. On the whole people praised the effect they had on handling, but suspecting it to be something of a flavour of the month, I did notice a few voices of dissent.
I think the suitability of these items really depends on what the car is used for. From what I gather, on track, the ARB makes a good difference, and in fact, it also appears to make a good difference on a good smooth dry road, making it feel more planted and grippy.
However, I had a conversation with one guy who had taken his off, stating that in actual fact although it did what it said on the tin, it made the car less approachable and more twitchy. He actually said a sudden surface change on a familiar corner taken at a lower speed than usual actually caused the car to spin. He also went on to say that he didn't quite have the confidence in the car with it on.
Even before this, having given it a lot of thought, I can potentially see the downsides, and for me, the car is already excellent in ALL conditions, even wet. A case of if it ain't broken don't fix it.
I still fancy the remap though. The promise of a more brawny, smoother power delivery with better low rev running, smoothness, better cold starts and a slightly higher rev limit all appeal.
So my thoughts now, is to pretty much just make it completely stock again eventually.
Currently the car has silver side-strips - the original are black, and having seen the original car, I prefer the black - it breaks up the silver, and makes it look a bit "tougher". The silver strips really just add refinement to the looks, which I'm not fond of.
And I'm in two minds about this, but I'm tempted to try and source the original 15" OZ wheels, although I am in no rush for these, as I do think the 16s look good, but the 15s look just as good, are lighter, so car will ride, handle and accelerate a teeny bit better. Cheaper tyres too.
All in all, I think OEM is the direction I want to take this car. Thinking longer term, this can only help its resale value too. Then again, if I get it running as I want, I'm not sure I'll want to get rid as it's a fantastic car and I have a shed load of fun in it (provided it doesn't lose me my license!!)
Firstly, about the Whiteline ARB. These are very highly rated by most, so I have done some very detailed research. On the whole people praised the effect they had on handling, but suspecting it to be something of a flavour of the month, I did notice a few voices of dissent.
I think the suitability of these items really depends on what the car is used for. From what I gather, on track, the ARB makes a good difference, and in fact, it also appears to make a good difference on a good smooth dry road, making it feel more planted and grippy.
However, I had a conversation with one guy who had taken his off, stating that in actual fact although it did what it said on the tin, it made the car less approachable and more twitchy. He actually said a sudden surface change on a familiar corner taken at a lower speed than usual actually caused the car to spin. He also went on to say that he didn't quite have the confidence in the car with it on.
Even before this, having given it a lot of thought, I can potentially see the downsides, and for me, the car is already excellent in ALL conditions, even wet. A case of if it ain't broken don't fix it.
I still fancy the remap though. The promise of a more brawny, smoother power delivery with better low rev running, smoothness, better cold starts and a slightly higher rev limit all appeal.
So my thoughts now, is to pretty much just make it completely stock again eventually.
Currently the car has silver side-strips - the original are black, and having seen the original car, I prefer the black - it breaks up the silver, and makes it look a bit "tougher". The silver strips really just add refinement to the looks, which I'm not fond of.
And I'm in two minds about this, but I'm tempted to try and source the original 15" OZ wheels, although I am in no rush for these, as I do think the 16s look good, but the 15s look just as good, are lighter, so car will ride, handle and accelerate a teeny bit better. Cheaper tyres too.
All in all, I think OEM is the direction I want to take this car. Thinking longer term, this can only help its resale value too. Then again, if I get it running as I want, I'm not sure I'll want to get rid as it's a fantastic car and I have a shed load of fun in it (provided it doesn't lose me my license!!)
Car is looking tidy, and interior is good with the new wheel and mats.
Unlucky with the big bill a while back but to be honest, I'm almost of the opinion that the values for these are almost lower than they should be, just because the cam belt is such an expensive job.
If the timing belt was 'only' a £150-200 job, I imagine the values would be a bit higher than they are. People will be reluctant to get a timing belt done when it can cost up to 1/2 of the cars value (and more with other bits and pieces). Better being on the road than scrapped, just make sure you get out and enjoy it!
Unlucky with the big bill a while back but to be honest, I'm almost of the opinion that the values for these are almost lower than they should be, just because the cam belt is such an expensive job.
If the timing belt was 'only' a £150-200 job, I imagine the values would be a bit higher than they are. People will be reluctant to get a timing belt done when it can cost up to 1/2 of the cars value (and more with other bits and pieces). Better being on the road than scrapped, just make sure you get out and enjoy it!
I used to own a Phase 1 clio 172, apparently with me driving it looked like Mario Kart Donkey Kong racing 
. I saw further up your thread that you were thinking of Sportlines, can I offer an alternative. If you are mainly going to be driving on the street I found the Eibach Pros to be a better option, they only lower by 20mm at the front and 15mm at the rear. The slightly skittish nature at the edge and in the wet is removed, and the ride quality seemed to me (from memory of about 10 years ago) was a lot better. The only downside was that rear shocks seemed to blow seals a lot more frequently.
. I saw further up your thread that you were thinking of Sportlines, can I offer an alternative. If you are mainly going to be driving on the street I found the Eibach Pros to be a better option, they only lower by 20mm at the front and 15mm at the rear. The slightly skittish nature at the edge and in the wet is removed, and the ride quality seemed to me (from memory of about 10 years ago) was a lot better. The only downside was that rear shocks seemed to blow seals a lot more frequently. Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff