An Odyssey of Tuning a Big Power VX220
Discussion
OlberJ said:
Smashin, i'll read it later.
Any pics of the rear suspension and driveshaft/hub set up at the minute, from underneath?
You've fair inspired me to get this on the go sooner rather than later.
I have 100s of photos of just about any part. PM me your normal email address and Ill send you some.Any pics of the rear suspension and driveshaft/hub set up at the minute, from underneath?
You've fair inspired me to get this on the go sooner rather than later.
When I started my project I considered other manufacturer's engines, but I thought the path of least resistance was to stick with the same engine block as the car rolled out of the factory with. Now that I know every inch of the car, I have considered building a vx220 race version with some sort of big power but low torque engine like an M3 V8, perhaps with a supercharger (though this add expense and complexity and charge temp issues).
However, every time I think about it, it seems a bit stupid to create another VX when I already have a 500 BHP one sitting the garage.
However, every time I think about it, it seems a bit stupid to create another VX when I already have a 500 BHP one sitting the garage.
Edited by nevcontractor on Wednesday 17th October 19:07
Edited by nevcontractor on Wednesday 17th October 19:08
I've made some more mods and got more power out of it. Write up is here: https://sites.google.com/site/z20letpower/07---upd...
dom9 said:
Yep, I've seen that one before.thought I'd update this thread a bit as I haven't been on here for ages:
Over the winter the car started smoking a lot, and after discovering it had lowish compression, I took the engine out and had gave it back to Steve Milton, who re-honed it and put different pistons in and also new stem seals. We suspected possible over fueling causing blow by (due to the sheen), which in turn was causing the turbo to leak past the seals/flingers (pic below):
About 6 months ago I swapped the throttle body over to larger size (and large 3 inch top hat), but TBH I don't think this helped at all.
Also, last month I got someone to install a new rack, new steering UJs in it and also a new very stiff front anti-roll bar. This has had a big impact on the way it handles and gives more confidence when cornering.
I have finally saved up enough money to get a semi-decent after market ECU for the car. On the 12th Oct the car is going up to EFI Tuning in Runcorn to have Adaptronic 440 installed and mapped. This will allow me to modify the maps in the car for different conditions, set in gear boost limits, traction control and the ability to remap it locally and easily if I ever change the engine/mechanicals. I have wanted to do this for 2 years now, and importantly this will allow me to bring the torque down as it the car is lethally powerful at the moment.
Am off to my brothers wedding in it this weekend, hopefully nobody will turn up with a faster car
Over the winter the car started smoking a lot, and after discovering it had lowish compression, I took the engine out and had gave it back to Steve Milton, who re-honed it and put different pistons in and also new stem seals. We suspected possible over fueling causing blow by (due to the sheen), which in turn was causing the turbo to leak past the seals/flingers (pic below):
About 6 months ago I swapped the throttle body over to larger size (and large 3 inch top hat), but TBH I don't think this helped at all.
Also, last month I got someone to install a new rack, new steering UJs in it and also a new very stiff front anti-roll bar. This has had a big impact on the way it handles and gives more confidence when cornering.
I have finally saved up enough money to get a semi-decent after market ECU for the car. On the 12th Oct the car is going up to EFI Tuning in Runcorn to have Adaptronic 440 installed and mapped. This will allow me to modify the maps in the car for different conditions, set in gear boost limits, traction control and the ability to remap it locally and easily if I ever change the engine/mechanicals. I have wanted to do this for 2 years now, and importantly this will allow me to bring the torque down as it the car is lethally powerful at the moment.
Am off to my brothers wedding in it this weekend, hopefully nobody will turn up with a faster car
Edited by nevcontractor on Tuesday 10th September 15:34
The car has seen quite a lot of mileage this summer, since rediscovering the wonderful roads in Brecon Beacons it has been hard not to drive out there at 5.00 AM every Sat/Sun morning.
Since the last update I've stuck some uprights on it (to help with lowering it's COG), fixed a burst water hose and carefully experimented/changed to the geo. I've also switched from Khumo V70a tyres to Federal RSRs, they last a good deal longer and are considerably cheaper (though a bit less grippy)
Mainly I've just been putting lots of petrol into it and blasting about.
Since the last update I've stuck some uprights on it (to help with lowering it's COG), fixed a burst water hose and carefully experimented/changed to the geo. I've also switched from Khumo V70a tyres to Federal RSRs, they last a good deal longer and are considerably cheaper (though a bit less grippy)
Mainly I've just been putting lots of petrol into it and blasting about.
Edited by nevcontractor on Friday 26th September 13:11
Last weekend I got round to finally getting the power map completed (with both revs and boost kept below maximum for reliability reasons). With 521 BHP and being 940 Kg, this gives it a power to weight ratio of 550 BHP/Ton - better than a Bugatti Veyron.
Mid range grunt is beyond most people's imagination (even mine!), many motorbikes can't keep up, let alone cars.
Mid range grunt is beyond most people's imagination (even mine!), many motorbikes can't keep up, let alone cars.
Edited by nevcontractor on Friday 13th March 14:44
robinessex said:
Quote:-
Since the last update I've stuck some uprights on it (to help with lowering it's COG)
How does that work then?
You can do that to adjust the roll centre, but it ain't going do anything to the COG
The uprights I installed raise the hub location by 40mm, this in turn allows me to lower the car by the same amount without affecting the geometry of the wishbones. So in summary, the car is now 4cm lower with corresponding lower CoG.Since the last update I've stuck some uprights on it (to help with lowering it's COG)
How does that work then?
You can do that to adjust the roll centre, but it ain't going do anything to the COG
Edited by nevcontractor on Friday 13th March 15:21
robinessex said:
Er, hubs up 40mm, car down by 4cm, happens to be 40mm-4cm=0.0. No change of COG height there then.
Maybe I didn't explain well enough. The OEM car with OEM hubs rides at 140 mm above the tarmac. My car (due to the hubs) now runs at around 100mm above the tarmac. Thus the CoG is lower.Blimey, I haven't updated this thread for ages, so...
The ECU is in now with 2 maps, one for minimum boost (11 PSI) and one for 25 PSI, I can hot-swap between them with a switch on the dash and re-program things anywhere between those 2 settings with an on board laptop. I restricted max boost to just 25 PSI as I was finding the car too hard to control at 31 PSI with 500 ft/lb and 550 BHP previously, it is now quite a bit more subdued and probably a faster drive on an average road as a result.
I have also machined up some bespoke parts to fit some Brembo 4 pots on the front of the car which now have RC6 pads though front Bias is too much ATM. I may remedy this with a similar rear setup and a bias controller. I used Alfa 159 28mm x 330mm discs (which just cost £15 on eBay!) and Porsche GT2/GT3 calipers (quite cheap too).
I have also installed some (very expensive!) uprights which raise the hubs up 4cm (which helps handling when lowered), followed by a very intensive geo setup by myself over 2 weeks, with literally dozens of tweaks and fine tuning each followed by a test run. The car now really handles like it never has, other VX220 owners who have driven it say it has more grip and "security" than their own cars.
I've had a few minor bugs, a melted water pipe (easily fixed), burnt out GT3 flange gaskets (and a snapped flange bolt), wheel rubbing issues (fixed with spacers) etc, knackered wheel bearing and 1 weeping coil-over. Overall however, the car has been nice and reliable for 1.5 years now.
Old calipers vs the new ones:
Low power map (super smooth and linear power delivery):
High power map (extra mid range for making Porche/Lambo/Ferarri owners cry):
Dummying up:
Machineing the dummy:
The final look:
The car gets USED (it ain't no garage queen)!
My fave blast run, 160 mile circuit in the Black Mountains at dawn, with almost no other cars on the road, faster than most tracks ;o)
Geo'ed up, old skool style with penty of testing:
Tyre expenditure requires it's own bank account:
Another magazine article:
The ECU is in now with 2 maps, one for minimum boost (11 PSI) and one for 25 PSI, I can hot-swap between them with a switch on the dash and re-program things anywhere between those 2 settings with an on board laptop. I restricted max boost to just 25 PSI as I was finding the car too hard to control at 31 PSI with 500 ft/lb and 550 BHP previously, it is now quite a bit more subdued and probably a faster drive on an average road as a result.
I have also machined up some bespoke parts to fit some Brembo 4 pots on the front of the car which now have RC6 pads though front Bias is too much ATM. I may remedy this with a similar rear setup and a bias controller. I used Alfa 159 28mm x 330mm discs (which just cost £15 on eBay!) and Porsche GT2/GT3 calipers (quite cheap too).
I have also installed some (very expensive!) uprights which raise the hubs up 4cm (which helps handling when lowered), followed by a very intensive geo setup by myself over 2 weeks, with literally dozens of tweaks and fine tuning each followed by a test run. The car now really handles like it never has, other VX220 owners who have driven it say it has more grip and "security" than their own cars.
I've had a few minor bugs, a melted water pipe (easily fixed), burnt out GT3 flange gaskets (and a snapped flange bolt), wheel rubbing issues (fixed with spacers) etc, knackered wheel bearing and 1 weeping coil-over. Overall however, the car has been nice and reliable for 1.5 years now.
Old calipers vs the new ones:
Low power map (super smooth and linear power delivery):
High power map (extra mid range for making Porche/Lambo/Ferarri owners cry):
Dummying up:
Machineing the dummy:
The final look:
The car gets USED (it ain't no garage queen)!
My fave blast run, 160 mile circuit in the Black Mountains at dawn, with almost no other cars on the road, faster than most tracks ;o)
Geo'ed up, old skool style with penty of testing:
Tyre expenditure requires it's own bank account:
Another magazine article:
RemyMartin said:
Looks like a bloody awful mess! But I'm sure it's a riot to drive
Ha ha, yes it's not many people's cup of tea, messy, VERY noisy, smelly, brash and visceral. Anyone who even slightly thinks of his car as a piece of jewelery won't like it. If you like going faster than almost anything else around then you'd like it.
Another year has passed by, this year's niggles have been:
1/ Build a new exhaust silencer for it as the old one got too hot and cracked and made the steel too brittle to weld up.
2/ Made a new PCV swirl pot that drains back into the sump which has helped reduce emissions.
3/ Bought some new (second hand) front wheels that are 1" less radius and take a 20mm narrower tyre. This has helped make the front end better mannered on the bumpy country roads I tend to drive on .
4/ Discovered the cam cover has melted and warped, so this is currently being replaced, along with a new thermostat.
5/ Decided to stiffen up an engine mount (by pouring some PU into the existing one).
Other than that it's been reliable and fun, just pour in the petrol and go.
1/ Build a new exhaust silencer for it as the old one got too hot and cracked and made the steel too brittle to weld up.
2/ Made a new PCV swirl pot that drains back into the sump which has helped reduce emissions.
3/ Bought some new (second hand) front wheels that are 1" less radius and take a 20mm narrower tyre. This has helped make the front end better mannered on the bumpy country roads I tend to drive on .
4/ Discovered the cam cover has melted and warped, so this is currently being replaced, along with a new thermostat.
5/ Decided to stiffen up an engine mount (by pouring some PU into the existing one).
Other than that it's been reliable and fun, just pour in the petrol and go.
Edited by nevcontractor on Saturday 24th March 11:51
Jimmy Recard said:
Fantastic car!
Mind if I ask a few questions about Z20LET tuning at some point?
Best to have a good read here first, lots of in depth info about my build (use the menu on the left): https://sites.google.com/site/z20letpower/Mind if I ask a few questions about Z20LET tuning at some point?
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