Thinking of getting 106 GTi. Final Tips & Advice?
Discussion
BadBanshee said:
Well, 3rd gear crunched twice on the way home from the purchase, but it might have just been me getting used to the clutch pedal (?) because I haven't heard it since.
Nearly went into a tree today lol. Well slight exaggeration but it did surprise me. Still getting used to the heavier steering and greater power. I can see why young people going from a tiny engine to a hot hatch can represent a substantial risk for insurance companies.
Third gear is probably no longer crunching as you've worn the rough edges off it. Nearly went into a tree today lol. Well slight exaggeration but it did surprise me. Still getting used to the heavier steering and greater power. I can see why young people going from a tiny engine to a hot hatch can represent a substantial risk for insurance companies.
In all seriousness, just rev match or double de-clutch your downshifts to get around that, but I would get it sorted properly sooner or later. Not just so other people can drive the car, but so you know it is 100%. And that will be important come re-sale, or just having peace of mind that the car isn't going to s
t the gearbox out and leave you stranded. Regarding nearly crashing into a tree, just take it easy out there. I know it probably feels like a right hoot getting into something that is clearly faster than anything you've had before, but insurers don't pull their stats out of thin air, and there have been many, many a 106 GTi or Saxo VTR/VTS binned by inexperienced drivers. Something that would probably be a doddle for an experienced hand to press on in may catch you out. Get used to the car and remember, you're never as good as you think you are. The reason little tin-can cars like this are no longer made is because they are s
t in a crash. Hit an empty coke can in the road and you risk serious injury. No, really, take it easy. The tree will win.
Regarding the car being a bit tatty, having various mechanical faults, being rusty, having a few naff mods on it, I did say the money would go further with a Saxo VTS...
BadBanshee said:
I'll have a gander, Ponk.
dabofoppo, where can I find the ECU?
I've been reading up on engine oils for the best part of this evening. My dipsticks saying oil level is dead in between min and max, so I really want to top it up a bit. I've gathered that the best oil to use would be 5w40. This would ensure the best performance and fuel economy as soon as I start the engine cold. However, because of the weeping around the rocker cover gasket, there's the consideration of greater weeping with the thinner 5w40. So it's a trade off between quicker engine warm up and possibly more oil leakage - or - a slower engine warm up and less leakage? Or maybe I should try and get the leaking sorted altogether with some sealant and then not have to worry about that anymore, then get the 5w40?
The ECU is next to the screen wash filler nozzle, there should be a black cover, careful taking it off as the clips can snap easily, under you should see a bunch of wires leading into the actual ECU, the metal plate it sits on can be very rusty, but it's not a structural component, so just leave it unless it is litterally crumbling away.dabofoppo, where can I find the ECU?
I've been reading up on engine oils for the best part of this evening. My dipsticks saying oil level is dead in between min and max, so I really want to top it up a bit. I've gathered that the best oil to use would be 5w40. This would ensure the best performance and fuel economy as soon as I start the engine cold. However, because of the weeping around the rocker cover gasket, there's the consideration of greater weeping with the thinner 5w40. So it's a trade off between quicker engine warm up and possibly more oil leakage - or - a slower engine warm up and less leakage? Or maybe I should try and get the leaking sorted altogether with some sealant and then not have to worry about that anymore, then get the 5w40?
For oil, the manual states using 10W40 semi-synthetic, but 5W40 fully synthetic would be better. I'm using castrol edge and can vouch for it, it comes up to temperature quicker, and after 7000miles/9 months the oil is still golden on the dipstick.
The '40' part is the viscosity, and the '5w' or '10w' is the winter or cold rating, lower number being better at colder temps.
One type of oil won't leak more, and remember don't just top up with the new oil, do a full oil change including changing the filter, it's a nice and easy DIY job and a good place to start if you're wanting to get handy with the spanners.
nosittap said:
One type of oil won't leak more, and remember don't just top up with the new oil, do a full oil change including changing the filter, it's a nice and easy DIY job and a good place to start if you're wanting to get handy with the spanners.
...if fking cold in this weather!! I changed the oil on my Elise last Jan, and I genuinely couldn't do up the bolts on the undertray at the end of it - couldn't feel where anything was with gloves on, and certainly couldn't feel where anything was after I'd taken them off!!
Didn't help that it was about 5 inches deep in snow by the time I'd finished (none at all when I started). Hideous.
Obviously I have the same problem, but think I'll just pay somebody else to swap the oil. Problem is - buy decent oil and it'll cost £40-£50 (depending on the oil obviously). Kwik Fit will change the oil for less than that, using OEM oil, and dispose of the oil for you.
Financially it's a no brainer. Obviously that involves trusting the Kwik Fit monkeys, mind you...
pthelazyjourno said:
...if fking cold in this weather!!
I changed the oil on my Elise last Jan, and I genuinely couldn't do up the bolts on the undertray at the end of it - couldn't feel where anything was with gloves on, and certainly couldn't feel where anything was after I'd taken them off!!
Didn't help that it was about 5 inches deep in snow by the time I'd finished (none at all when I started). Hideous.
I know that pain, did and oil change last December and vividly remember smacking my freezing knuckes off the sump when the tight arse oil filter finally gave way, I swore lots to say the least, got chilled to the bone, took a long hot shower and a few cups of tea to warm back up. Luckily it didn't snow and the 106 doesn't have an undertray, little presice bolts must be a right PITA! king cold in this weather!! I changed the oil on my Elise last Jan, and I genuinely couldn't do up the bolts on the undertray at the end of it - couldn't feel where anything was with gloves on, and certainly couldn't feel where anything was after I'd taken them off!!
Didn't help that it was about 5 inches deep in snow by the time I'd finished (none at all when I started). Hideous.
nosittap said:
I know that pain, did and oil change last December and vividly remember smacking my freezing knuckes off the sump when the tight arse oil filter finally gave way, I swore lots to say the least, got chilled to the bone, took a long hot shower and a few cups of tea to warm back up. Luckily it didn't snow and the 106 doesn't have an undertray, little presice bolts must be a right PITA!
It makes me shiver just thinking about it! Undertray was a nightmare because there was also a diffuser attached to it - so it's about 5ft long in total. Very flexible aluminium. It balances at the front on a small lip, and then there are about 10 tiny bolts around the side. As soon as you manage to balance it on one side, it slips off the other. So you go round and lift it up again, and then the whole thing falls down! So I'd already been swearing at it for ages before I even put the first bolt in! 2 person job really that.
Think if I do it again this Jan I'll do it in stages. Old oil out. Cup of tea. Filter change, new oil, cup of tea. Put everything back together, cup of tea. Tidy everything up, cup of tea. Dump oil...
pthelazyjourno said:
It makes me shiver just thinking about it!
Undertray was a nightmare because there was also a diffuser attached to it - so it's about 5ft long in total. Very flexible aluminium. It balances at the front on a small lip, and then there are about 10 tiny bolts around the side. As soon as you manage to balance it on one side, it slips off the other. So you go round and lift it up again, and then the whole thing falls down! So I'd already been swearing at it for ages before I even put the first bolt in! 2 person job really that.
Think if I do it again this Jan I'll do it in stages. Old oil out. Cup of tea. Filter change, new oil, cup of tea. Put everything back together, cup of tea. Tidy everything up, cup of tea. Dump oil...
Good idea, but driving the Elise must make up for all the hassle!Undertray was a nightmare because there was also a diffuser attached to it - so it's about 5ft long in total. Very flexible aluminium. It balances at the front on a small lip, and then there are about 10 tiny bolts around the side. As soon as you manage to balance it on one side, it slips off the other. So you go round and lift it up again, and then the whole thing falls down! So I'd already been swearing at it for ages before I even put the first bolt in! 2 person job really that.
Think if I do it again this Jan I'll do it in stages. Old oil out. Cup of tea. Filter change, new oil, cup of tea. Put everything back together, cup of tea. Tidy everything up, cup of tea. Dump oil...
After Jan it might be worth servicing it 'early' in spring/summer to sync service time with [read hopefully] nicer weather?
nosittap said:
Good idea, but driving the Elise must make up for all the hassle!
After Jan it might be worth servicing it 'early' in spring/summer to sync service time with [read hopefully] nicer weather?
That does make sense. After Jan it might be worth servicing it 'early' in spring/summer to sync service time with [read hopefully] nicer weather?
Only reason I kept it at this point in the year was because the MOT is July. I like the idea of spreading costs over the year - rather than getting to the MOT and finding out you have a whopping big bill!
Nicer to be able to change things in your own time, with less chance of issues when you get to the MOT. Means the car gets looked over twice yearly too, rather than in the same month. If that makes sense.
Think you're right though!
Elise definitely makes it worth it - not really the weather for hooning around though:
That doesn't look like the new Elise, unless it's an even newer, facelifted one.
Totally dribbling over this one:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
Apparently, they fitted the wire behind the panel running down the A pillar all the way to the lighter socket.
Totally dribbling over this one:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
Apparently, they fitted the wire behind the panel running down the A pillar all the way to the lighter socket.
pthelazyjourno said:
The sat-nav thing makes me laugh. Why the hell would you want the sat-nav to be in the sun visor - means you'd have the bloody wire dangling down across your line of vision whenever you need to plug it in.
Unless you run the cable through the top of the visor and down the A pillar. I've seen that done and it's a relatively neat solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.As for an Elise, it would have to be an S1...with a VTEC unit in it!
Seems like a bit of a shed, but it was 900 quid, so suck it and see. all the little niggles can be fixed over time. Your only major issue is rust. I'd suggest you get a mechanically minded friend pronto tho.
Slightly off topic. Are you the same guy that posted about the yaris a while back? If so, I'd urge you to google mechanical sympathy pretty sharpish.
Slightly off topic. Are you the same guy that posted about the yaris a while back? If so, I'd urge you to google mechanical sympathy pretty sharpish.
BadBanshee said:
That doesn't look like the new Elise, unless it's an even newer, facelifted one.
Totally dribbling over this one:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
Apparently, they fitted the wire behind the panel running down the A pillar all the way to the lighter socket.
The one you've been dribbling over is 2001 - 2010. The one posted above is 2012 car. Totally dribbling over this one:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012...
Apparently, they fitted the wire behind the panel running down the A pillar all the way to the lighter socket.
The later one probably looks a bit more like mine from the front, the one you like is a bit edgier. There's not a lot in it price wise for the earlier S2s.
Baryonyx said:
Unless you run the cable through the top of the visor and down the A pillar. I've seen that done and it's a relatively neat solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.
As for an Elise, it would have to be an S1...with a VTEC unit in it!
That's true. I prefer to have mine in the bottom right corner of the screen, where it's in my line of vision, but doesn't really obscure the view. Suppose everybody is different though. As for an Elise, it would have to be an S1...with a VTEC unit in it!
Honda'd Elises are mental. Silly expensive to though - as in £10-20k for the conversion on its own if you pay somebody to do it. Would also miss the sound of a tuned K series, it's a pretty funny engine to listen to, sounds like it's going to blow up!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gN2hQLVgAOY
Right. Back on track - I'll stop derailing this thread now!
Edited by pthelazyjourno on Thursday 13th December 10:50
I haven't had time yet to wash n polish it so I'm going to upload pics of it on a frosty morning i.e. now
I'm starting to think it doesn't need lowering at all.
Them leather seats so comfy comfy!
2x these in the boot cover.
Been saving this keyring for ages
I'm starting to think it doesn't need lowering at all.
Them leather seats so comfy comfy!
2x these in the boot cover.
Been saving this keyring for ages
Edited by BadBanshee on Sunday 16th December 10:07
Mine had the newer interior too - a million miles better than the earlier vomity velour. Personally I like them a little lowered and on the 306GTi wheels, but that will balls up the handling somewhat and in reality the handling is the best part. 
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