My DDR GT4 build
Discussion
Not sure if this is what you are looking for and it's not on Ebay but I have used this in the engine bay of my car:
http://www.soundservice.co.uk/high-density-acousti...
Works well and looks good.
http://www.soundservice.co.uk/high-density-acousti...
Works well and looks good.
Moulder said:
Not sure if this is what you are looking for and it's not on Ebay but I have used this in the engine bay of my car:
http://www.soundservice.co.uk/high-density-acousti...
Works well and looks good.
Thanks as I wasn't sure what I was buying I've gone with a company called silent coat and buying deadening, noise absorbers, noise isolators etc... and hopefully it will do a good job! As I did get advice from them and gave them the details of the car.http://www.soundservice.co.uk/high-density-acousti...
Works well and looks good.
biggerbigben said:
Just got up to date by reading all your blog. Good progress! Whens the engine going in?
I've managed to get it in on two side mounts today which take the weight. The front and rear mounts stop torque and the front mount varies depending on revision of engine so I need to do some checks and decide on best one.I've also tested gear linkage today and test fitted coolant pipes and heater pipes. Next piece for me to complete though is the clutch first, then start fabricating brackets to hold all these pipes and eventually wires as well.
Then on to the fuel system!
killerferret666 said:
I've managed to get it in on two side mounts today which take the weight. The front and rear mounts stop torque and the front mount varies depending on revision of engine so I need to do some checks and decide on best one.
I've also tested gear linkage today and test fitted coolant pipes and heater pipes. Next piece for me to complete though is the clutch first, then start fabricating brackets to hold all these pipes and eventually wires as well.
Then on to the fuel system!
Awesome progress, makes me feel like I'm working at a snails pace... I've also tested gear linkage today and test fitted coolant pipes and heater pipes. Next piece for me to complete though is the clutch first, then start fabricating brackets to hold all these pipes and eventually wires as well.
Then on to the fuel system!
The kit seems to be going together very well do you have a build manual to follow or is it just a case of doing things in a logical order? Also have you had any issues with the kit or required much support from DDR?
Keep up the good work really looking toward to seeing this finished
Hoonigan said:
Awesome progress, makes me feel like I'm working at a snails pace...
The kit seems to be going together very well do you have a build manual to follow or is it just a case of doing things in a logical order? Also have you had any issues with the kit or required much support from DDR?
Keep up the good work really looking toward to seeing this finished
I do have a supportive girlfriend which is just as we'll with the amount of time I've spent on it! The kit seems to be going together very well do you have a build manual to follow or is it just a case of doing things in a logical order? Also have you had any issues with the kit or required much support from DDR?
Keep up the good work really looking toward to seeing this finished
as I've got be up at 120hrs now.The kit is going together well to be honest, some hiccups because of version changes in the mr2 but nothing to cry about so far. I have no manual at all and just doing things in a logical order, because there is a lot of space with this kit, things aren't quite so compact so I'm just thinking methodically. The kit was designed for American market where you wouldn't need to do half the things we do.
DDR have responded to issues I've had quickly, for instant engine mounts I knew something wasn't quite right and I'm pretty sure mine has a front TRD mount which is 83mm and his chassis is based on normal turbo mount of 78mm, not end of the world I'll just get one! So we've been working together with pictures on that. The time difference never makes it too easy of course, but end of day the donor is all from a MR2 so I can work it out.
The support is never going to be like a UK company as they don't know IVA of course, but I knew that when taking this on.
i hate wiring, but made my own loom in the end, good tip is to run some extra cables front and rear as spares, if you don't ever need them it doesn't matter, if you do need some ( you will ) you don't need to strip the car to put them in.
write down all the colour codes for reference in the future, in a year you wont have a clue what is what
write down all the colour codes for reference in the future, in a year you wont have a clue what is what
Looking good. Been follwoing this one.
It may just be the picture, but are those coilover top mounts in single shear?? If so, you will really want to do something about that before you go too much further along. There was a particular version of a Stratos replica a while back that had the mount for the rear upper wishbone in single shear...and it had a habit of ripping itself out of the chassis tube. Typically, the tube would crack all along the weld transition. Later models had mods to solve it which gave it some bracing in another plane. I know a number of people who had the problem despite the fact it looked pretty beefy - just can't expect a single shear joint like that to sustain heavy loads like those you'll find in that position I don't reckon.
Hopefully I'm just missing something in the photo and all is well!
It may just be the picture, but are those coilover top mounts in single shear?? If so, you will really want to do something about that before you go too much further along. There was a particular version of a Stratos replica a while back that had the mount for the rear upper wishbone in single shear...and it had a habit of ripping itself out of the chassis tube. Typically, the tube would crack all along the weld transition. Later models had mods to solve it which gave it some bracing in another plane. I know a number of people who had the problem despite the fact it looked pretty beefy - just can't expect a single shear joint like that to sustain heavy loads like those you'll find in that position I don't reckon.
Hopefully I'm just missing something in the photo and all is well!
khm said:
i hate wiring, but made my own loom in the end, good tip is to run some extra cables front and rear as spares, if you don't ever need them it doesn't matter, if you do need some ( you will ) you don't need to strip the car to put them in.
write down all the colour codes for reference in the future, in a year you wont have a clue what is what
I used 7 core trailer lighting cable on my current build. several runs of it going all over the car and ending at the fuse box. two colours of tape wrapped around either end tell me which wire is which. much simpler and neater than running loads of extra single core around the chassis.write down all the colour codes for reference in the future, in a year you wont have a clue what is what
CorseChris said:
Looking good. Been follwoing this one.
It may just be the picture, but are those coilover top mounts in single shear?? If so, you will really want to do something about that before you go too much further along. There was a particular version of a Stratos replica a while back that had the mount for the rear upper wishbone in single shear...and it had a habit of ripping itself out of the chassis tube. Typically, the tube would crack all along the weld transition. Later models had mods to solve it which gave it some bracing in another plane. I know a number of people who had the problem despite the fact it looked pretty beefy - just can't expect a single shear joint like that to sustain heavy loads like those you'll find in that position I don't reckon.
Hopefully I'm just missing something in the photo and all is well!
Single and double shear I'm not too hot on, although I think I get it, so if I explain how it is mounted it may be better.It may just be the picture, but are those coilover top mounts in single shear?? If so, you will really want to do something about that before you go too much further along. There was a particular version of a Stratos replica a while back that had the mount for the rear upper wishbone in single shear...and it had a habit of ripping itself out of the chassis tube. Typically, the tube would crack all along the weld transition. Later models had mods to solve it which gave it some bracing in another plane. I know a number of people who had the problem despite the fact it looked pretty beefy - just can't expect a single shear joint like that to sustain heavy loads like those you'll find in that position I don't reckon.
Hopefully I'm just missing something in the photo and all is well!
Firstly the mounting peice's back plane itself is welded to the tub across the long edge. It then has two side braces welded on to the tub as well, giving a supporting U shape.
As well as this, once complete I will be putting a brace across the rear suspension top struts as well.
Mm, in which case assuming I understand correctly, (the picture and your description seem consistent to me at least) then I think it's in single shear, meaning there is a large force trying to effectively twist the bracket off that chassis tube. That WILL fail in time. Won't happen straight away, but with the full suspension load on it like that, it needs to be in double shear.
A brace across the top would help a lot, but it needs to be strong, and attached (welded ideally) to the chassis tubes. Having something like a strut brace you'd see in a tin-top won't do it, as all that is doing is stopping the strut towers from moving towards or away from one another. Somehow, you need to brace the load vertically, either with a substantial box or tube across the top, or perhaps something heading down from the sides of the main mounting plate to the lower chassis tube. I guess a substantial strut brace that was also bolted to some new brackets on the main chassis tubes might be good enough and would still be manageable in terms of access for the engine etc. I am picturing a chunk of say 2" square tube with a good steel spec and wall thickness, ends with closed end round tubes let in to pick up on the plate that carries the coilover, then some brackets to attach this square tube to the round fore-aft tube. Another possible option, can't be sure without seeing more of it as this may foul other parts, but a couple of relatively small plates or tubes that run from the front and rear edges of the main coilover mounting plate, down and slightly inward to pick up on that lower chassis rail.
I'm sure there are other folk on here who will have better ideas than mine!
I'll see if I can find some pictures of the failure I was talking about so you can see what happens in a similar setup. The car in question, the upper rear wishbone was partly mounted in a tube welded across a semi-vertical main chassis tube that was in single shear. Over time, the fore-aft loads applied to the wishbone from acceleration and braking rip the tube out of the main chassis tube, allowing the top wishbone and wheel to move backwards and forwards. It was a situation that quickly got worse once it started as you can imagine. I can see that coilover top mount doing exactly the same thing TBH, so catch it now. FWIW, I would, and it wouldn't put me off building the car either as it's an easy fix by the look of it.
Must say, this is intended to be helpful - I'm not trying to be a smart arse or bad-mouth your kit here. I've had or been involved with a few kits over the years, and frankly, some of the design on them can be questionable. I come at this not from an engineering background (but not mechanical) so don't claim any expertise, just practical experience. When I first started into kits, I assumed that whatever the manufacturers made must be correct....how wrong I was! Even the good ones make mistakes from time to time.
Given the way you've approached this build so far, I can't see this being anything more than a wee blip to you.
A brace across the top would help a lot, but it needs to be strong, and attached (welded ideally) to the chassis tubes. Having something like a strut brace you'd see in a tin-top won't do it, as all that is doing is stopping the strut towers from moving towards or away from one another. Somehow, you need to brace the load vertically, either with a substantial box or tube across the top, or perhaps something heading down from the sides of the main mounting plate to the lower chassis tube. I guess a substantial strut brace that was also bolted to some new brackets on the main chassis tubes might be good enough and would still be manageable in terms of access for the engine etc. I am picturing a chunk of say 2" square tube with a good steel spec and wall thickness, ends with closed end round tubes let in to pick up on the plate that carries the coilover, then some brackets to attach this square tube to the round fore-aft tube. Another possible option, can't be sure without seeing more of it as this may foul other parts, but a couple of relatively small plates or tubes that run from the front and rear edges of the main coilover mounting plate, down and slightly inward to pick up on that lower chassis rail.
I'm sure there are other folk on here who will have better ideas than mine!
I'll see if I can find some pictures of the failure I was talking about so you can see what happens in a similar setup. The car in question, the upper rear wishbone was partly mounted in a tube welded across a semi-vertical main chassis tube that was in single shear. Over time, the fore-aft loads applied to the wishbone from acceleration and braking rip the tube out of the main chassis tube, allowing the top wishbone and wheel to move backwards and forwards. It was a situation that quickly got worse once it started as you can imagine. I can see that coilover top mount doing exactly the same thing TBH, so catch it now. FWIW, I would, and it wouldn't put me off building the car either as it's an easy fix by the look of it.
Must say, this is intended to be helpful - I'm not trying to be a smart arse or bad-mouth your kit here. I've had or been involved with a few kits over the years, and frankly, some of the design on them can be questionable. I come at this not from an engineering background (but not mechanical) so don't claim any expertise, just practical experience. When I first started into kits, I assumed that whatever the manufacturers made must be correct....how wrong I was! Even the good ones make mistakes from time to time.
Given the way you've approached this build so far, I can't see this being anything more than a wee blip to you.
CorseChris said:
Mm, in which case assuming I understand correctly, (the picture and your description seem consistent to me at least) then I think it's in single shear, meaning there is a large force trying to effectively twist the bracket off that chassis tube. That WILL fail in time. Won't happen straight away, but with the full suspension load on it like that, it needs to be in double shear.
A brace across the top would help a lot, but it needs to be strong, and attached (welded ideally) to the chassis tubes. Having something like a strut brace you'd see in a tin-top won't do it, as all that is doing is stopping the strut towers from moving towards or away from one another. Somehow, you need to brace the load vertically, either with a substantial box or tube across the top, or perhaps something heading down from the sides of the main mounting plate to the lower chassis tube. I guess a substantial strut brace that was also bolted to some new brackets on the main chassis tubes might be good enough and would still be manageable in terms of access for the engine etc. I am picturing a chunk of say 2" square tube with a good steel spec and wall thickness, ends with closed end round tubes let in to pick up on the plate that carries the coilover, then some brackets to attach this square tube to the round fore-aft tube. Another possible option, can't be sure without seeing more of it as this may foul other parts, but a couple of relatively small plates or tubes that run from the front and rear edges of the main coilover mounting plate, down and slightly inward to pick up on that lower chassis rail.
I'm sure there are other folk on here who will have better ideas than mine!
I'll see if I can find some pictures of the failure I was talking about so you can see what happens in a similar setup. The car in question, the upper rear wishbone was partly mounted in a tube welded across a semi-vertical main chassis tube that was in single shear. Over time, the fore-aft loads applied to the wishbone from acceleration and braking rip the tube out of the main chassis tube, allowing the top wishbone and wheel to move backwards and forwards. It was a situation that quickly got worse once it started as you can imagine. I can see that coilover top mount doing exactly the same thing TBH, so catch it now. FWIW, I would, and it wouldn't put me off building the car either as it's an easy fix by the look of it.
Must say, this is intended to be helpful - I'm not trying to be a smart arse or bad-mouth your kit here. I've had or been involved with a few kits over the years, and frankly, some of the design on them can be questionable. I come at this not from an engineering background (but not mechanical) so don't claim any expertise, just practical experience. When I first started into kits, I assumed that whatever the manufacturers made must be correct....how wrong I was! Even the good ones make mistakes from time to time.
Given the way you've approached this build so far, I can't see this being anything more than a wee blip to you.
Don't worry I know the difference between help and just slating for the hell of it A brace across the top would help a lot, but it needs to be strong, and attached (welded ideally) to the chassis tubes. Having something like a strut brace you'd see in a tin-top won't do it, as all that is doing is stopping the strut towers from moving towards or away from one another. Somehow, you need to brace the load vertically, either with a substantial box or tube across the top, or perhaps something heading down from the sides of the main mounting plate to the lower chassis tube. I guess a substantial strut brace that was also bolted to some new brackets on the main chassis tubes might be good enough and would still be manageable in terms of access for the engine etc. I am picturing a chunk of say 2" square tube with a good steel spec and wall thickness, ends with closed end round tubes let in to pick up on the plate that carries the coilover, then some brackets to attach this square tube to the round fore-aft tube. Another possible option, can't be sure without seeing more of it as this may foul other parts, but a couple of relatively small plates or tubes that run from the front and rear edges of the main coilover mounting plate, down and slightly inward to pick up on that lower chassis rail.
I'm sure there are other folk on here who will have better ideas than mine!
I'll see if I can find some pictures of the failure I was talking about so you can see what happens in a similar setup. The car in question, the upper rear wishbone was partly mounted in a tube welded across a semi-vertical main chassis tube that was in single shear. Over time, the fore-aft loads applied to the wishbone from acceleration and braking rip the tube out of the main chassis tube, allowing the top wishbone and wheel to move backwards and forwards. It was a situation that quickly got worse once it started as you can imagine. I can see that coilover top mount doing exactly the same thing TBH, so catch it now. FWIW, I would, and it wouldn't put me off building the car either as it's an easy fix by the look of it.
Must say, this is intended to be helpful - I'm not trying to be a smart arse or bad-mouth your kit here. I've had or been involved with a few kits over the years, and frankly, some of the design on them can be questionable. I come at this not from an engineering background (but not mechanical) so don't claim any expertise, just practical experience. When I first started into kits, I assumed that whatever the manufacturers made must be correct....how wrong I was! Even the good ones make mistakes from time to time.
Given the way you've approached this build so far, I can't see this being anything more than a wee blip to you.
After you mentioned it, I had a further look around the chassis, I can do some load strengthening afterwards and have a few options in my mind. I was weighing up when / how to do it, its got to be after because I have no manual / guide so I'm unsure where required parts will end up and how the car will sit afterwards, so id rather get that right first, because it can be as strong as a horse but if it cant move and fouls on parts its of no good at all.
Its not the end of the world with the back end of the car being one complete clam shell it can just be taken off. I suspect its fine in America, the roads around miami were nice and nothing like our bumpy streets.
Either way, the pics you mention would be great as it will give me ideas before then.
Edited by killerferret666 on Thursday 9th January 13:17
Struggling to find a decent shot, this one shows the problem area (although it had been beefed up a bit, the new ownwer of the car made a much better job of it while he was doing the refurb, mostly as he intended more than doubling the power & torque of the engine).
http://www.stratosec.com/Forum/attachment.php?atta...
The problem is the front upper wishbone mount - it is in the bit of tube dropping down vertically from the diagonal - the joint gets ripped out of the diagonal. This is single shear. Not good!
http://www.stratosec.com/Forum/attachment.php?atta...
The problem is the front upper wishbone mount - it is in the bit of tube dropping down vertically from the diagonal - the joint gets ripped out of the diagonal. This is single shear. Not good!
Edited by CorseChris on Friday 10th January 09:08
CorseChris said:
Struggling to find a decent shot, this one shows the problem area (although it had been beefed up a bit, the new ownwer of the car made a much better job of it while he was doing the refurb, mostly as he intended more than doubling the power & torque of the engine).
http://www.stratosec.com/Forum/attachment.php?atta...
The problem is the front upper wishbone mount - it is in the bit of tube dropping down vertically from the diagonal - the joint gets ripped out of the diagonal. This is single shear. Not good!
link doesn't work http://www.stratosec.com/Forum/attachment.php?atta...
The problem is the front upper wishbone mount - it is in the bit of tube dropping down vertically from the diagonal - the joint gets ripped out of the diagonal. This is single shear. Not good!
Edited by CorseChris on Friday 10th January 09:08
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