MR2 Turbo - The road to 400bhp
Discussion
Evoluzione said:
What are you doing about cams, headwork and the fact that the block splits?
Revision 3 cams are fine for everyday useability which is what i'm looking for. Not looking for absolute power, even though i will have the room for it with the turbo. As for the block cracking, i'm going to install water injection. I've been reading up on it a lot and it helps cool the cylinder walls a lot and stop detonation which in turn causes the cracking of the block.All the heading is rebuilt with low compression pistons
Midshipracer said:
Evoluzione said:
What are you doing about cams, headwork and the fact that the block splits?
Revision 3 cams are fine for everyday useability which is what i'm looking for. Not looking for absolute power, even though i will have the room for it with the turbo. As for the block cracking, i'm going to install water injection. I've been reading up on it a lot and it helps cool the cylinder walls a lot and stop detonation which in turn causes the cracking of the block.All the heading is rebuilt with low compression pistons
Midshipracer said:
It's all her say tbh, it was pot luck. But definitely having low compression pistons, a good map and water injection really help keep things like detonation at bay
People can go a bit insane with "reasons" for it. I've got a rev 2 which people say have thicker walls (people go out and buy rev 2 blocks for rebuilds) and mine is dead thanks to a cracked block.Mine has cracked right next to where the water first "enters the block". I had read and fully think there is something to it, that the initial cold rush of water as the thermostat opens causes weakensses in the casting to show when the hot/cold mixes against the hot block. Water injection sounds like a good solution to this cutting down the temperature difference in the block. Give us plenty detail on your install of this please!
My solution is a sleeved block, forged pistons and to run with no thermostat but it's a track car so doesn't need the heaters etc. For an every day use MR2, it's not really much of a solution by having no thermostat.
that's really nice 
i've got a stock looking white tintop rev3 turbo, but done all supporting mods to max the ct20b at about 300bhp. it's loads of fun!
what turbo you going to use to achieve 400bhp? I've been reading about blocks cracking and rev3's do seem more prone to it, but this was on cars pushing 450+bhp.
i've got a stock looking white tintop rev3 turbo, but done all supporting mods to max the ct20b at about 300bhp. it's loads of fun!what turbo you going to use to achieve 400bhp? I've been reading about blocks cracking and rev3's do seem more prone to it, but this was on cars pushing 450+bhp.
Back for another update,
A quick recap of whats happened in the 3 years. Upshot 431bhp
2016
Aquamist Water methanol injection added. Controlled by the ECU
2017
Changed from a Garrett GT3076r turbo to a Garrett GTX Gen II 3076r
Main reason for this was i was getting really frustrated with the late spooling of the previous turbo
New tech meant it was win-win i.e. better spooling by 1krpm and more power
2018
Changed the HT ignition OEM to 1ZZ COP from a MR S or Gen 7 Celica
Changed from a 2.75" intake to 4"
Here are some pictures
Dyno sheet
The old turbo
New turbo stats
Business end, not the prettiest but works
A quick recap of whats happened in the 3 years. Upshot 431bhp
2016
Aquamist Water methanol injection added. Controlled by the ECU
2017
Changed from a Garrett GT3076r turbo to a Garrett GTX Gen II 3076r
Main reason for this was i was getting really frustrated with the late spooling of the previous turbo
New tech meant it was win-win i.e. better spooling by 1krpm and more power
2018
Changed the HT ignition OEM to 1ZZ COP from a MR S or Gen 7 Celica
Changed from a 2.75" intake to 4"
Here are some pictures
Dyno sheet
The old turbo
New turbo stats
Business end, not the prettiest but works
Edited by Midshipracer on Sunday 10th June 00:22
samoht said:
Beautiful car, and must be super-fast.
From the dyno chart, the power basically doubles between 4,800rpm and 5,900 (210 to 420hp), which looks like it might be a bit hairy feeding the power in on track - how does it feel in reality?
Is this because dynos are done in 4th gear.From the dyno chart, the power basically doubles between 4,800rpm and 5,900 (210 to 420hp), which looks like it might be a bit hairy feeding the power in on track - how does it feel in reality?
In reality real boost comes in at 3800rpm if you compare that to the OEM CT20B turbo coming in at 3000rpm.
In 4 pots you rarely accelerate while cruising from a high gear.
You can really feed in the power on this turbo
I had the first generation of the same turbo and that was really laggy and frustrating
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